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Hi Dave thanks for the reply I am referring to the the Overhead Check Panel that sits up by the rear view mirror

Thanks Dave. It looks like that's the only way to go. I think it may be the 4 terminals that actually connect to the sharks fin. Maybe I didn't push it right in when putting it back. Mind you the clip did pop out>

Hi Paul When you say "when cranking it is all lit up" Are you reffering to the Dash Lights ? Or something else ? Not aware of an Overhead console on the cabriolet Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum From memory there are several connections but they should be colour coded I think the only route is to go back over what you did just to make sure tey are all correct an seated make sure the earth hasn't been disturbed Good Luck Dave

Just checking I'm getting emails lol

New to this forum, hope someone can help. "SOS call system failure" came up on instrument panel. Thought it was the battery in the Telematic Unit as suggested. Replaced this with great struggle getting into the rear roof lining! Checked the Fault Codes and removed them. When ignition turned on again I get the above codes. These refer to GPS aerial: open circuit, Telematics Aerial 2 Open Circuit, and telematics Aerial 1 Open Circuit. Can not find a schematic diagram for the Telematic unit to see where to start. Is it possible that I have not replaced the unit correctly or that a connection has come out? What connections are the aerials?

Hi Donny. There should be a red + under the hood. On the wheelarch side fender will be a large nut. This is the - where the black lead goes. then use a charger so another battery to put power into the car and open the boot/tailgate that way.

Thank you Dave, That sounds like invaluable guidance. Many thanks 👍 Fingers crossed I can fix Cid

Morning They are really well thought out position aren't they (not) First time I did this on my own E70 I unbolted the seat moved it back and tipped it on it's side to get more room. My problem was a failed acctuator, then after struggling for a day to get the door card off I was talking to a BMW Mechanic who told me that in the workshop they just release the top of the door card open the window then slide a long screwdriver or pry bar down between the card and the door until it sits on the little lever that the internal door pull is attached to. push down until it stops then give it a good whack. The door will open then you can get to those pesky screws. Replacing the acctuator is straight forward just check the outer door handle cable is in good condition and free when I did this for a friend who thought he had the same problem as I had had same symptoms. Got the door open in 10 mins changed the acctuator then just before putting the card back on we tested the lock (triggered it with a screw driver) and the acctuator wouldn't release ??? After lots of head scratching with the door still locked I put my hand up inside the door to where the outer dor handle cable attaches and the lever could be moved down a fraction, click door open!! Rang the BMW Dealer who luckily had a cable after changing it all worked as it should again. So if you have the top of the door card free you should be able to use the screw driver pry bar technique Hope that helps Dave

Morning Donald We are a BMW Forum but having personally owned and run 3 AMG Mercedes under the Bonnet (Hood) on the left of the car (Drivers side for you) Mercedes put a plastic capped Pos terminal the Neg terminal was on the suspension mount. Same arrangement on a friends 2004 230 CLK If you got burning it could be one of your connections was in the wrong place or just dirty. Hope it didn't melt anything Dave

I forgot to mention that the trunk won't open because the battery is dead; and nothing will open it. Door will open with emergency key; but not for the trunk. I had not driven it since the middle of December.

hey X5smw., this is DDONNY. I tried a pair of cheap pair of jumper cables; hooked it up to what looks like charging points under the hood in my Mercedes 2003 CLK430, and it burned quickly. Would a charger work? + on the red clip and black clip - grounding a bolt or nut on the steel? What I see is on the top of driver's fender with two fairly large wires attached to somewhere that appears to be +.

Cheers Dave, I assume I need to remove the seat out as struggling to get to the rear bolt as door won't open. Cid

Morning Stu That looks brutal 🤣 nice and bright though You didn't have the metal high speed saw blades then 🤣 Dave

Hi everyone Just a quick question regarding the overhead console computer as I cannot remember whether it should be All on or off prior to starting the car? I have fitted a new battery and I'm having blond moment lol (no offence intended). Currently prior to cranking the car over it is all lit up and I'm sure it wasn't like that beforehand and then mostly goes out during cranking. Not sure if I have to reset something so any help and advice would be most welcome.

Well…. It begins! The dremel was useless and just kept snapping blades, so I went for the next option…. 2000 watt heat gun…. 4 hours later I have a melted set of lights and some angel eyes in position. I managed to pull the wire out of one of the halos so I’ll get the soldering kit out 🙄 once all the halos are in and working, I’ll fit the new lenses and mould the mos sharpen bits back again… hopefully!

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Even a relativley new battery can die fully charge the battery (make sure you use the charge points under the bonnet) measure the voltage engine off key out at the charge points it should read 12.5 to 12.8v below 12v is either dying battery or a dead short somewhere. Once battery is at full charge engine running measure again you shouls see 14.8v indicating a healthy alternator. Engine off key out let the car go to sleep (takes up to 10 mins) then measure amperage at the under bonnet charge points you should se a few milliamps (clock, memory items etc) if your seeing higher you have a paracitic drain which will need tracking down. Check the starter motor a failing one can kill a battery really fast Hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul I believe you can also get an adhesive to stick it back, goes without saying the screen and disc have to be really clean and dry Dave

Hi, I have a strange issue on my 2013 2.o diesel X1. It has been runniing fine for years until today when we tried to start it was dead. Tonight i jumped it straight away but now when you start it the lights are on all the time but the windows dash lights and other electrical functions do not work . Now I have run it round the block the battery which is only 6 months old it starts the engine no problem. Any ideas ? could it be an emergency get you home mode as the lights work

3m squares will seal it! does the car have a sensor on the glass?

Hi, open the bonnet and use the charging points in there. Put the charger on and the boot should open using the fob. also, I have seen cars getting enough power from connecting an external battery/ car to the cigarette lighter, if you have one?

And, of course, if you can't open the hood, you can't use the + and - to put power to the doors, windows, lights, keyway, etc.

I just now remembered that you could use under the hood cables to hook up to a good battery. That should allow you to open the boot and doors.

I probably won't be able to remember exactly step by step. (That happened with a 2003 Mercedes, one problem similar to the '92 BMW 325i. That time my battery looked like nearly new, but it was quite old. A new battery solved that problem.) As for the '92 , the instrument cluster lights likely went out some day before that day. It works, but lights are out. I have some extra lights; just haven't removed it yet. I have a few clusters that I have bought used over the years. Now the most important: The back driver's side door window was opened about one inch; I used a coat hanger to pull knob up; (the driver's door). After that it was easy. I put a new battery in and turned the ignition key; all was good. You might have to use a circular hole saw behind your car tag to open the boot.

Never experienced this before but the rear view mirror has seemingly parted company from the windscreen. It seems that a round metal disk should be glued in some way to the windscreen and then the plastic housing can be put back. Any experience/instruction out there on how best to go about reattaching this?