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Hi Dave, I fitted one of the sensors on the rear but it has made no effect as the light is still there, I will fit the other sensor tomorrow and see how it goes then. You mention the disconnect the battery, is there any pattern to this ? is it both leads or just the negative lead? cheers Paneuro.

Not sure what engine your running but there should be a Temp sensor in the Hose from the Rad to the water pump then there should be a Temp sensor in the housing for the Thermostat Both are shown in realoem for the 3.5 V8 I thought the V8 was the only one with dual use sensor on the Thermostat housing but stand to be corrected Dave

I’m more concerned about the other cars… I have a 5’ Brazilian wife and a 2 ton car … 😂😂😂

I have checked realoem and it gives me no temperature sensor option , which is strange. Also what I did was to remove the map thermostat and disconnected the resistance heating that is inside the thermostat and replace it with a 88C from an x5. Nothing else has been changed. The strange thing is that it run like that for 3 weeks in August. When I start the car last week the temperature dial was going to max before dropping to normal value. And that happened only when cold. When warm the dial was showing the right temp. I also saw that the map for the thermostat was engaged when the car was running cold which made me think that there may be a connection between the thermostat dial and the map thermostat not being connected.

Back to my daughters method she told me "you don't need that stuff there is a Thud when your to close 😅" Dave

Morning BMW use 2 temp sensors one is with the thermostat the other is at the bottom hose to the rad (check realoem for your model) the car uses an average reading across the two to decide if things are OK Check wiring to both it could be that as there is no signal from your new thermostat it's confused things Dave

I’m a journalist and I’m keen to write a piece on this. If you’ve had a newish 2 series, and at under circa 35k miles the drivetrain light came on, and the gearbox has needed replacing, please email me your details to jamie@rollonfriday.com.

I bought a 68 plate bmw 2 series active tourer 220d in October 2023, it's got 33000 miles on the clock and have just been told it'll cost over 9K to replace the gearbox after the drive train light came on (it did go off after a couple of days but I still got the dealership to have a look). Any advice or guidance? I'm going to get a 2nd option naturally.

The sounder doesn’t come on when I fault the system and I’m getting both tones so I assume the speakers are correct. cheers mate!

Haha… I have ran out of ear defenders from children use! 😂 no faults showing on 1.4.0 or autel scanner. I get faults when I unplug sensors. I think I’ll buy a set of sensors and change the fronts… then see what happens.

I checked on the ODB and there is no fault recorded , apart from "map activation". The temp gauge behaviour is strange. Any idea why it's going up and down like when cold and then it settles down ?

Hi Kerry Welcome to the Forum If you are absolutley certain the physical timing is OK then this could well be a sensor issue crankshaft and camshaft sensors are not communicating The first 2 codes are Camshaft related the 3rd is Misfire Cylinder 6. P0016 confirms there is an issue with Crankshaft/Camshaft communication Just because they are new doesn't mean they are right do you have the old sensors to try ? Full diagnostic with a good BMW friendly reader would/should tell more Dave

Morning Vic If the battery was new I believe it should recharge from the cars system so thats odd, unless it needs registering to allow recharging of course, or the telematic unit is toast. If changing the Telematic unit try and source the same part number to avoid any registering issues Good Luck Dave

Installed timing chain complete with oil chain parts. Used the proper tools to make sure the timing is set correctly. (2010 BMW X3 3.0L) after install it started but ran poorly with P13B6, P13B4, and P0306 codes. Cleared the codes and started it again with the same results. Tried a third time the next day and got a P0016 and did not start. Took top cover off and checked the timing with the timing tools again and it checked okay again. Cleaned the sensor connections. (Two new timing sensors were installed along with the new chain parts. Put the top back together and got the P0016 again. Not sure where to go from here.

Hello Had same issue on my m135i f40 2020 and solved issue of the reversing groaning by getting the car 4 wheel alignment done. As soon as had the 4 wheel alignment the groaning gone and 6 months later still no groaning

Hello Had same issue on my m135i f40 2020 and solved issue of the reversing groaning by getting the car 4 wheel alignment done. As soon as had the 4 wheel alignment the groaning gone and 6 months later still no groaning

HI Greydog Electrician fitted the battery which lasted about 70miles then the warning reappeared. So problem persists. I'm trying other sources to fix the problem, maybe a replacement telematics is needed but that's where I'm at presently.

The fellow selling them just needs to check the back of the spokes as Stu says he should find it there Dave

Things went well, once I used a coat hanger to open the driver's side door in the back. Also, I had bought a trunk lid some time ago (and steering wheel, driver's side door, and several other things) from a guy that was selling parts. It was lucky I got the trunk electrical part that opens up all the doors with a key. That happened a day or two later; not right away. I guess that feature had to come back to life. I'm in the process of cutting out the A/C condenser aluminum that will give the radiator better cooling. I will put in another fan motor, because the other one had seized up. I may have to put in another alternator, just to be sure. As for the airbags, for both BMW '92s. I reused the original crash sensors instead of the clean ones that were likely from a collision. Live and learn.

Ear Defenders 😅 Could well be a front sensor masked a little or possibly the sounder ? you getting nothing from 1.4.0 ? Dave

Good to have you back Dimitris I would think there will be an internal fault recorded but if the Thermostat is working it will simply open earlier so I would think gauge wise you will see nothing unusual Dave

Hi Richard I have used both staggered and square set ups. You can check wheel sizes using www.realoem.com if you are making a wheel/tyre purchase make sure that the wheels have the correct offset so they clear the brake calipers also make sure they are suitable for your car From the weather forecast it could be the first time in a long time it's been cold enough to need Winters unless like I used to you need to travel in Europe where Winters are mandatory Dave

Hello all I got myself a 1996 E38 735i back in August and I, as expected, run into some probs. I have seen the engine temperature dial, when cold, it was rising to maximum for a short period and then dropping back to normal after a few min. when the car was hot it was running OK. What I have done, back in August when I got the car, was to remove the 105C thermostat and replace it with a non 88C Map thermostat. The electrical connector on the thermostat is not connected – free plug. Will the non use of the MAP thermostat through a fault like the temperature dial raising to max when running cold?

Hi All, I currently have the original wheels on a staggered set up. If going to winter wheels/tyres do I need to go staggered or will same all round be fine? What size wheels? Currently on 18"s.