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Our BMW 220d xtrail 2014 is lighting up like a Christmas tree on every journey with various faults pinging on screen. We have been to the local garage numerous times but there are no faults. Sometimes the faults disappear during the journey on their own or vanish when you turn the engine off then on again. Same 3 faults each time as well. Before we take it into a dealership we thought it would be useful to ask if anyone else has had similar problems & what it was. On screen it comes up with the following faults:- 1) Front end collision warning restricted 2) Parking brake only partially working 3) Driving stabilisation fault Fingers crossed.

Hi Dave,thank you for your reply,it was running before i got my hands on it🤣the car is not local to me so will probably have another go this Sat. But will try what you've suggested and many thanks! Will update the progress on this! Cheers Daryl

Trying to do this myself now (put m4 convertible seats in the 140i) when I do this the seats only work for around 10 seconds then do not work again unless I disconnect the wires and put them back on and does the same again , any ideas the can had manual seats and I’m trying to put electric ones in , they have the module in the seats

Morning Cid have you found the 2 screws underneath the very bottom middle of the door card under the storage bin? Once the screws are out then its working around with a trim removal tool to pop out the clips I started at the bottom you should be able to lift/lever the card upwards to release the top edge which is held by spring clips Check the internet for any useful videos that may help Good Luck Dave

Morning Rob A quick look at www.reaoem.com indicates the OEM battery would be standard 110ah but can be changed for 90 or 92ah AGM. Just remember your car has IBS so will need the battery registered to ensure correct charging Good Luck Dave

Morning Bruce Hope the Test Drive goes well and Welcome Back Dave

Morning Kelvin Welcome to the Forum Shipping could be a high cost as we tend to be mainly UK based, good information for our US mambers though Dave

Hi. If you need any help with insurance at all for any model you're looking at then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Morning Jorgen Welcome to the Forum You can check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need I am not aware of other joints but I have not worked on an X1 so there may be something there. Re-check all work done just in case, check the start relay and all fuses Hope this helps Dave

Morning Karl My money is still on the battery, simple test disconnect the battery fully charge it and leave it overnight if it looses charge that will confirm it The control unit by the battery is probably the PDC module. Water in the area doesn't help check the floor drains are not blocked (I guess your mechanic will do that) You could also check for a prasitic drain on the battery, battery fully charged car closed apart from the bonnet, let the car go to sleep (all systems off the tell tale by the gearshift will go out) then check at the under bonnet charge points for any discharge. There will be a small milli amp discharge clock etc, anything higher will need investigation Good luck Dave

Morning Justin Welcome to the Forum First the I would point out the Post you seem annoyed with (Wtf) is 3 years old ? Second the OP did close out the post by telling everyone it fixed his issue, success, saved a few quid and learned a lot I am sure So not sure what your problem is other than yo clearly wouldn't have done that Dave

Cheers Dave, really appreciate it mate

Hi Steve Cold weather kills batteries get yours checked or charged would be my bet Dave

Morning Kirk Welcome to the Forum First the air suspension is a very simple system (compressor, pipework, airsprings and height sensors) the only issue I have seen is when cheap airspring replacements have been used or there is a leak at a joint ride height sensors need checking. Still that isn't your question, the answer is yes a straight forward job there are many kits available the job is just like changing the air springs. However you will need to remove the compressor and pipe work, plus code out the air suspension or the car will be looking for signal from the sensors. I would expect a good kit to cost around £200 Good Luck Dave

Morning Beth Welcome to the Forum When you say Vehicle History which bit, !st, is Service History this will indicate how well the car has been maintained. With older cars this will mainly be by way of a stamped Service Book and Reciepts for work done. 2nd. MOT history is always worth checking it will indicate if Advisories (Advised repairs) have been carried out or re-occur. 3rd. Are the Insurance checks ie. has it been in an accident and repaired (HPI etc) The DVLA hold information on all legally registered cars regardless of Registration number MOT information also includes The Vin Number (check it matches) HPI and similar hold information on Insurance claims, Finance etc Then of course there are the Physical checks when viewing the car such as, is the body work and paint in good condition, Tyres are they in good condition and evenly worn, Next the mechnicals engine off bonnet up the state of the engine bay will tell you a lot if it is clean and tidy all good if there is dirt oil and grime everywhere ? Before starting check oil water, power steering fluids is the oil clean and up to the correct level, same for the other two no visible leaks, check the engine hasn;t been run warmed up before you get there if it has it raises a question why? Now engine start and listen for noise's rattles sit in the car and make sure everything works as it should every switch button and knob, check the interior for rips or tears carpet and seats, check the carpets for wet or damp (sign of leaks) Last the test drive make it at least 5 or 10 miles single carriageway dual carriageway give it a real test. Don't fall for the "never used that never bothered me" or "easy fix you can get one on Ebay cheap" The MOT/Finance checks you can carryout from the comfort of your living room. The Service History while standing in front of the car same with the other checks don't rush it. If you can't do it yourself take a friendrelative who can Good Luck Dave

Morning Rob Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Lee Welcome to the Forum What a tale of woe, when you say BMW is this the Dealer or BMW UK? Make sure you document the timeline 1st recall Delay 2nd etc I think you then have a real argument that BMW's delay in rectifying the issue is the underlying cause as these issues were not apparent at the 1st and 2nd recall attempts. Good Luck Dave

Hi I'm a Newby, Took my 2015 x1 in for recall to replace egr, didn't use the heater for a few days when I did it was stone cold, on inspection no water in reservoir, topped it up and it went empty again put another litre of coolant in went down again, the heater did work for a day then cold again I have discovered the egr is coupled to the cooling system can't see any visual leaks, seem ominous, any thoughts anyone? Thanks.

Afternoon Craig It may be a PITA but if your struts are fine then a change of spring would be the route I would take Not trying to teach Granny but ride is a combination of Spring/rate (how stiff they are) and Shock absorber Bump/Rebound rate. BMW like rising rate springs (fairly soft to begin then stiffening as load increases) no surprise that they spend a lot of engineering time getting the right blend of spring rate against shock absorber bump/rebound Have you tried talking to a BMW Dealer to see if you can get just the springs ? Another route would be a Bilstien Agent (Bilstien are an OEM supplier) I have been told a Company called EAL Automotive have original spec springs again worth Google search and talk to them. Hope this makes sense Dave

My 2019 BMW 2 series GT 220d gearbox has gone on 60k miles. Getting it refurbished at present and costing around £4k. BMW absolute scum

Many thanks once again Greydog Dave for your enormous endeavours

Hi Chris First one is pretty straight foward Coding Data, Second = operation/service, Third = Energy/Power (guessing here) Fourth= Block Detection (similar to windows), Fifth I think is Protection (may be here you find soft close) Six says what it is (could also be where you find what you need) Seven = Regulation (could also be what you need) Last is Diagnostics or Diagnosis (I wpold check there first in case a reset sots it) Hope that helps, my ISTA/INPA gives all in english so easier to use never looked at tailgate programming Diagnostics should let you know if it is the close sensor or programming Good Luck Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Normally it will be one or two sensors that fail as you say, I would go back and test the sensors again. PDC on then ligtly touch each sensor with an ear close you should hear clicking and feel a light vibration. I would have a spare sensor to swap in the event you find a non responsive one (the trick is being able to get at the sensors) If a sensor is swapped and remains unresponsive check the loom from that sensor to the next for continuity. Good Luck Dave

For sale BMW 840ci sport wheels BBs new centres 17 stagged 9 rear 8 front New michelin tyres 255/40/17 pilot sport 4 front . New 275/40/17 michelin vintage range pilot sport 2 rear (covered no more than 200 miles £1200 worth of tyres) Straight wheels no welds For sale as I have upgraded wheels £2750 or best offer

Morning Charlie Welcome to the Forum I would guess either you have trapped the wiring or pulled a plug to the power steering somewhere. The only way is to back track all your work and check. Assuming that you have checked fuses and the power steering motor ? Good Luck Dave