CAR WONT START HELP !!!!!!

[Destroyer-Dan]

I was driving down the road and the car decided it no longer wanted to run I have the scan tool software rac told me it needs a new fuel pump in the tank but im not so sure after seeing the codes has anyone experienced this before 

[Greydog]

Morning Daniel

As the first code points to the Fuel Pump control module that is were I would begin, does the car turn over ?

I take it the the fuses have been checked and the fuel pump relay checked or replaced? Also check the DDE pins for corrosion and continuity another contributor just had a similar issue with his X5 4.0d which he traced through the DDE to the power relay making intermittently.

More of a concern are your last 2 fault codes, can the codes be cleared? What effects are you seeing (no turn signal no DRL etc) The 114 code could be as a result of a faulty DDE power relay or a faulty FRM/FCM The 117 code could also be a power relay issue  

Sorry can't give you an instant fix 

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

Thank you so much for your reply mate I haven’t checked any fuses I’m a bit clueless when it comes to electrical issues but I will 100% give all the fuses a look at I removed the DDE and all the male pins on the DDE and the plug connectors looks I do remember the ista saying no communication to the JBE as well I forgot to take a picture of it, it also mention no communication to the frm and check the fuses and terminal 15 but I don’t know what that is 😂

[Destroyer-Dan]

Thank you so much for your reply mate I haven’t checked any fuses I’m a bit clueless when it comes to electrical issues but I will 100% give all the fuses a look at I removed the DDE and all the male pins on the DDE and the plug connectors looks I do remember the ista saying no communication to the JBE as well I forgot to take a picture of it, it also mention no communication to the frm and check the fuses and terminal 15 but I don’t know what that is 😂

 

yes the car does turn over 

[Greydog]

Morning Daniel

The FRM is the footwell control module, it has several functions to control but as many other control units also acts as a gateway for communication. The JBE (Junction Box Electronics) is more important there are 3 types 1 for cars with Kline comms and 2 for cars with Dcan comms. You need to first check www.realoem.com and find out the part number for your car. Then check the unit in your car is the correct unit for your chassis the same applies to the FRM.

You seem to have ISTA up and running both units will require coding to your Vin 

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

Thank you mate sorry for the slow reply’s So I removed the frm module checked it out appears fine removed checked and reinstalled every single fuse in the junction box electrics all appear fine I check the DDE last week that seemed fine as well as all the connectors so I’m stumped I guess I will have to check all my ground connections and and the fuel pump module I’m still needing to scan the car again to check if there are any new codes 

[Greydog]

Morning Dan

When you say you removed the Module and checked it, how did you check it? A visual check won't do it, you need a good multi-meter and preferably an oscilloscope. Inside the module there are printed circuit boards easily damaged by water ingress. One 10 pence diode failure kills the whole unit.  Fuses are a simple visual check Relays a little different but can be checked with a meter and a 12v supply. As the relays are cheap I would change them it could save a lot of searching

My own FRM/FCM failed earlier this year, first symptoms were intermittent faults then total failure and no communication with the unit the knock on effects were to my Climate Control unit. I changed the FRM/FCM and registered it to my chassis all good for a couple of days. The warm weather arrived and I discovered the Climate Control unit was fried too. So had to change that as well.

Your JBE still needs checking as well

Dave

 

 

[Destroyer-Dan]

so ive scanned the car again and after clearing the fault codes i get different codes come up its now saying that the JBE is ok so there must have been a loose fuse or something as that has now turned green..... ive have screen shot the faults twice to show two different fault codes and wiring diagrams i am assuming that the red means there is some kind of break or is that live power  ? im unsure lol clueless when it comes to electrics tbh it also shows a short circuit on the frm on the test plan 

[Greydog]

Morning Dan

The phrase "All the Gear but no idea" springs to mind 🤣 Still the other old phrase is "Every day is a school day" so opportunity to learn

First your FRM footwell control unit seems a consistent Fault it could well be causing the knock on faults with DSC Radio and many other parts. This where you have 2 courses of action (1) talk to ECU Testing or BBA REMAN both companies repair control units for a living if your FRM is repairable it is a simple job send it off then put it back. If it can't be repaired then I would use Google to search for a replacement with the correct part number. Now the Fun Part a replacement unit will need registering to your chassis or you will get a tamper dot by the mileage, the car will run fine without registering just the dot.

Second your DDE fault is consistent with no comms to the Fuel pump control unit. Once the FRM has been changed check the fault codes again to see if the Fuel Control Unit can be cleared. If it has all good. If not then you need to investigate the fuel supply system further

With the wiring diagrams have you read the Functional Description (next Tab) it may help you understand what your looking at.

Dave

 

[Destroyer-Dan]

hahaha I was lucky enough to get it when I brought the car ...... I can do the odd mechanical jobs but electrics just throw me off completely so I have a lot to learn just another thought as well referring back to a previous reply you mentioned the DDE Relay I've actually had a fault for that and it gave me a wiring diagram which I have posted so ill be replacing the relay hopefully that fixes all the DDE Issues as the car turns over but doesn't start..... another possibility I have fitted genuine bmw angel eyes to the car but replaced the original bulbs with L.E.D bulbs is it possible that could cause the FRM issue all the windows lights and everything still work even though the FRM module has a short ? ........( answer to previous question on the FRM I did a visual check of the pins and there was no corrosion or anything I could see visually)

[Greydog]

Hi Dan

There are 2 relays to check/change one is the Fuel Pump Relay the second is the Power Relay 

Lights, you say you have changed to BMW angel eyes, did you change the complete headlamp unit? Just changing the bulbs to LED may give a bulb failure warning unless they are fitted with a resistor (most are) but wouldn't have an effect on the FRM. The FRM is a control unit not a power supply it controls many systems and acts as a confirmation gateway for others. Getting it working will eliminate a few  more faults, often fault codes cant be reset while there is a fault in an associated unit.

As you have a non starting car I would pull the FRM, contact one of the repairers and send it off for checking and repair. If you can stick with the original you avoid all the re-programming issues. If it cant be repaired then a replacement will be needed, BMW and some Specialists will tell you that "Only BMW can program a unit" Well they would I suppose. They are wrong and you already have the kit to do it (just another School day)

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

Thank you so much mate 100% 

[Destroyer-Dan]

A little update so I’ve made some progress not loads but a bit so I only have faults on the DDE and DSC now I know what the DSC is (rear brake pad wear sensor broken) I have looked on ista and the DDE faults have pointed me in the direction of the DDE Relay being faulty so I’ve removed that and waiting for one to arrive in the post I also need to check the ground connection for the starter motor and the alternator I had this error since I brought the car and I believe that is what is interfering with the preheating control unit causing the error code 004A79 & 007A74 thanks for your help mate honestly it’s you’ve been helpful and I’m the meantime I’ve learnt ista as well so it’s been a bonus amazing software  

[Greydog]

Morning Dan

Almost there Buddy, one thing I have learnt with diesels (and not just BMW) if the Glow plugs are iffy change them all and the control unit less pain in the long run. The glow plugs don't normally stop them starting though

BMW love Comb Type earth points I had some weird electrical issues traced it to an earth point in the boot behind the spare. I brought some electrical contact paste from RS Components along with some contact spray unbolted the earth comb cleaned the mounting point and put it back with a smear of contact paste. The individual earth spade connections I gave a clean with contact cleaner.

Dave

 

[Destroyer-Dan]

Yes that’s the odd thing I have changed the glow plugs and the module and still have this fault which I looked on the ista software it says check grounds so that’s my last check point 

[Greydog]

Check the loom to the glow plugs as well Dan on my sons Toyota pickup we had it apart a couple of times eventually he moved the loom and the fault disappeared. New loom was pretty cheap so he brought one no more Glow Plug issues.

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

just another quick one still waiting on the DDE Relay I think ive discovered that there are two relays in the ECU compartment is that correct one black one and the blue DDE Relay what is the black one for ?

ITS FOR ELECTRIC FAN LOL JUST CHECKED IT OUT 

[Greydog]

Morning Dan

Top man, almost there. I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com it's a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. The search the relevant sections for the bits you need that way you know a the correct part number and that it will fit.

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

thanks mate 

[Destroyer-Dan]

!!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!!

so today I discovered the whole reason behind why my car wouldn't start the wiring loom for the turbo actuator and the MAF sensor had managed to work its way loose from the secure tabs that hold the wiring loom in place and got burnt by the hot part of the EGR valve causing a short circuit to ground (ground being the engine itself) so as a temporary fix I have separated the loom that has exposed wire and wrapped it up in electrical tape (I’ve cable tied the loom so is not going anywhere) also I installed the new DDE Relay which wasn't the issue as once I complete the install it didnt start so I checked the fuses in the DDE Compartment again and somehow I've managed to miss a blown 20amp fuse lol so I replaced that and Voilá its back to life 

so for anyone else reading this if you ever run into these main fault codes (all at the same time)

004320 DDE: Delivery control valve, activation

004350 DDE: Rail pressure control valve, activation

004191 DDE: Charging/boost pressure actuator, activation

00483D DDE: Throttle actuator

003EC0 Camshaft sensor circuit, no signal 

check your fuses in your DDE Compartment under the bonnet and check hotspots on engine if you can  because it could be something as simple as my problem was… I had a company tell me the timing chain had failed just because they seen code 003EC0 Camshaft sensor circuit, no signal telling me I needed a engine rebuild and all sorts of rubbish (I had the timing chain replaced December last year) 

BIG MASSIVE THANK YOU TO GREY DOG for guiding me through it and taking the time to help me I really appreciate you mate 

 

[Bimmer Owners Club]

9 hours ago, Destroyer-Dan said:

!!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!!

Thanks for updating with the successful result.....very useful for anyone else suffering with this type of fault

[Greydog]

Top man Dan

We now have another member with hard won knowledge 

Now you can enjoy your BMW

Dave

[Destroyer-Dan]

Thank you for everything mate 

[Destroyer-Dan]

I forgot to mention…

the previous fault codes I had are phantom codes. When I was trying to start the car it would bring up different fault codes each time because of the shorted ground circuit so if you have this issue where your scanning the car and each time the fault codes are different remove the negative battery terminal for 10+mins not to sure how long it takes for the ecu to reset itself …. Reconnected the negative terminal 

TURN IGNITION ON ONLY DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE !!!!! 

now scan your faults and it should display the correct faults and go from there but again do not start the car because the short circuit will throw off  other sensors and things (this applies if you have a electrical fault like me) 

 

[Greydog]

Often fault codes are misread many folks don't realise that they often are a symptom not the cause, plus as they disrupt communication on the Bus system they throw other spurious codes.

Proud of you Dan you have come a long way in a short time.

Dave