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Posted

ok so the car runs and i've managed to solve the original issue but I have this demon of faults lurking in the background AGAIN where I keep scanning the car and I get different fault codes appear all non communication faults (at one point every unit in the control tree was red) 😞 I'm debating if its actually worth me throwing the money at the car to repair as I took it off when it broke down originally and its going to need a few things to get through a MOT. I'm starting to feel defeated !

 

 

No Coms Fault.png

Posted

Morning Dan

When you scanned the car and got these faults a question or two? Do you have warnings up? Does the radio work? Does the Heating/Aircon work? My bet is they do.

I would make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition. Then connect your diagnostics, turn your ignition ON, "DO NOT START THE CAR" clear all faults. Ignition OFF. Then repeat do not start the car the current drop will cause all sorts of false fault codes due "low voltage" re-scan with a full battery.

You may find you see a different result 

Good Luck

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi mate I have no warnings come up on the dash board all the controls in the car work oddly radio, windows, air conditioning and thing works… I’ll give the battery a good charge and report back to you 

 

thank you again mate 

Posted

Hi Dan

The fact everything works points towards either a low or dying battery voltage should be 12.8v engine/ignition off 14+v with the engine running 

If the battery is down when you start all power is diverted to the starter so the diagnostic see's multiple faults as other stuff is starved of power.

Dave

  • Thanks 1
Posted

thank you mate honestly youve been a life saver ! one thing i did notice is that after turning off the engine and removing the key from the ignition the turbo actuator seems to have a mind of its own small but rapidly moving up and down 

Posted

Morning Dan

Turbos get flippin hot, years ago people would shut the engine down and the oil in the turbo would bake. As you can imagine they failed on a regular basis, advice then was let the car tick over for 5 or 10mins to allow everything time to cool down. Today turbos have much longer lives thanks to onboard systems.

It may be part of the cars protection program that keeps the vanes moving until it cools down, haven't heard it before but now I will check. It could be the coolant system Aux pump circulating to cool things down while the actuator moves the vanes through their range.

Dave

 

 

Posted

So the battery is all good, oddly it was my version of ISTA that was actually at fault it has been acting up recently but Wednesday night it decided to give up and corrupt on me so I binned it off and got the latest version I’ve scanned the car several times through out the past two days and every time every module is perfect 

86B9B9EF-8B72-4AEC-8D4C-B2C04DBBA958.jpeg

Posted

Thank you so much mate you have been amazing !!!

everything is now completely solved just doing the suspension all round and things for mot I can’t wait to drive it again the engine runs so smooth now I’ve managed to get the Glow plug module sorted  

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