Technical niggles, battery and oil

[CuppaJoe]

Recently for a new to me e60, and have a few niggles. Which is mildly disappointing as I assumed, given it was owned from New by the same person, who I knew to not skimp on servicing -everything mean dealer, on the button, last service late 2019 with a specialist Indy.

Oil service shows up as due....given the car has largely been stood since lockdown, entirely necessary? Last done August 2019 ,6k ago. I'm guessing probably a good idea to still get it done?  Also, I see from the check messages it's now reporting oil level too high...could this be as I was on a reverse slope, or do I urgently need to get the oil changed and back to 'acceptable' levels?

(Brake fluid and inspection due October 2021, rest have got 27k to go on service computer.)

Secondly, increased battery discharge whilst stationary message. This was on when ingot the vehicle, I'm assuming due to its long period of not really being used - it was sorned last July, has only been turned over weekly for ten fifteen minutes since.  Warning light expired on the trip back from collection, but popped up again this morning. Leading through the service history, I see a note saying battery at 33% back in 2016. Still original battery. Replacement probably a good idea. However BMW are quoting me 220 for the battery and 40 for coding it in.  I know dealerships are usually a but more, but a standard lead acid battery,80ah, 800cca is NOT 220. It's not an AGM bateryy as it's not a stop start car, it just has a start engine button. I know it's not AGM as the stickers on top refer to  flooded battery and it's got a breathing tube attached. BMW insisting it's AGM, hence the price. Best off just getting a comparable standard battery and having an Indy code it? I don't want to start buying diagnostic software and another laptop to run it just for coding a battery or checking the dpf soot levels.

 

[Greydog]

Hi Joe 

Welcome to the Forum

Quite a few people have registered high oil level after the car has been standing as oils drains back to the sump I would run the engine for a few minutes let it stand fo 5 mins and check then (can't remember if yours is just electronic or do you still have a dip stick)

As for the battery check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box it will bring up your model then search the sectiona for the Battery, my brother inlaw runs 5 series he is on his 4th one now, he changed the battery in one of his while on business in Poland the garage (not BMW) that did it told him if you change it like for like you don't have to register it. He had the car for a couple of years after that and never had an issue with it.

There are several Diagnostic programs now that are BMW capable so yes a good Indy could code it if it needs it there is also a Register of BMW Specialists who are mostly BMW trained and have all the kit. 

Euro car parts normally have some good deals on and always have discount deals and codes going my battery is Yuasa from Halfords 

Regarding the DPF my brother inlaws cars 3 were 530d the current is 535d touring all his cars have covered 20/250k the current one is around 150k and he has never had a DPF issue EGR issues but never DPF. The death knell for the DPF is short journeys where the engine doesnt reach operating temperature for long enough to trigger regeneration. He trashes his around Europe so I guess that has helped.

Dave

 

 

 

[CuppaJoe]

I'm sadly familiar with the dpf not liking short journeys after owning two Volvo d5s, which still didn't like it even with a fortnightly 1 hour each way motorway schlep. 

I'm hoping the 5 series manages things better - given the journeys this 5 has done in its life, a lot of time it was reasonably shirt, but had good runs every month or two. 

I've read lots about the battery coding, with some saying needs to be coded as the charging cycle/rate will be different between a new and old battery and the car won't know otherwise, even if it is like for like. Closest I've found so far is 80ah, but 850cca.

I'll check out the realoem site, thank you. 

[TCon]

Hi Joe,

If the car has being stood still for a long time you should change the oil anyway. Oil becomes acidic after a period of time thats why you are usually advised to change it at a set time or interval. 6k to me is a little more than i do when i change mine. i go for about 5k then change it but i do it myself so no labour costs. I would agree with Greydog about the oil levels, run it and let it sit for five mins then recheck it.  

Regarding your battery, id say its had its day. If it was 33% in 2016 and now its been standing for a bit, id say its toast. Once again follow Greydogs advice about finding the correct battery but rather than going to a stealership, shop around. There are far better prices around. Fitting one is mechanically easy to do but just a heavy lump to move. Getting it coded to the car is straight forward enough so anyone with any half decent OBD reader could probably do it for you but im sure if you look in the wanted ads you'll find someone who can far cheaper than at the stealership. Im sure you can reduce that quoted cost down. Also check You Tube, you'll be surprised how easy it actually is.

Ive had an issue with me EGR due to a sticking roller bearing inside the EGR mechanicals. A good clean and a regrease sorted it but it lead me to seeing the carbon build up in the inlet manifold, which was bad. I removed and cleaned the manifold but more importantly I recently had the EGR blanked, the DPF removed and the error codes programmed out. Been a month now and no complaints. Also purrs nicer now too. Might be worth a thought.  

[CuppaJoe]

Hi TCon,

I am not averse to getting the dpf emptied out and coded out, would have to be a good, nay, impossible to visually see job though.

I've got an Elgrand which has 4 cats, 2 of which have been decored and no one would be any the wiser without an endoscope and a lot of time to navigate up through the rear and middle box.  Might even be able to get the fronts decored too, as it runs LPG.

Sorry to digress a little😁

[TCon]

Hey Joe,

When I got my dpf done the guy took it off and drilled out the center of the to leave a clear path for the gases but left the outer part of the internals. This is done because in Germany they x-ray your dpf and this could be introduced later. Also a known trick by testers is to tap on the dpf, if it is hollowed out you can hear it but with the core drilled it will pass the tap test 😁 Thankfully it comes with a 12 month warranty and a pass the emissions test guarantee. 

I like the idea of an LPG conversion 🤔 must look into that.  

[CuppaJoe]

Used realoem site, but it's even more complicated 

It lists six or seven different batteries, including the one fitted, so that doesn't help. 

Finding the same spec battery leads me to varta F21, AGM battery. But my car does not have stop- start. Just a start button.

Guess I'm going to have to find a cheap normal battery with a higher output and then find someone to register the change and code.

 

[Greydog]

Hi Joe

The batteries listed will all be compatible with your charging system and just need registering.

The AGM type battery is not exclusive to "Stop Start" cars I have one in my X5. If you are going to have to register the battery anyway it should make no difference.

Often people fit an over rated battery thinking it will last longer not realising that the cars charging system will never fully charge it, which can shorten it's life. A battery that has the same rating as yours should be fine maybe a member on here with the software that lives near you could help code it in

Dave