Splutters when start from cold.

[Joseph80]

Hi

 

I just bought my first BMW 120i SE Convertible and when I start it up all was fine and I drove it back home  (from Reading) New Forest and now when I start it in the mornings it splutters and the engine warning stays on. Sometimes if I switch off, take out the key, lock the car and unlock and start again engine light goes out and it no longer splutters.

However, today the engine light does not go out, stays on ORANGE CONSTANT.

I will buy a diagnostic scanner to narrow it down and service the car but I'm a little concerned it's a bigger problem.

Any ideas from anyone would be much appreciated

 

Many thanks

 

Joseph

 

 

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph

Welcome to the Forum

If buy a Scanner make sure you get a BMW capable one a General scanner will see the major control units. A BMW capable one will give much clearer information 

Your issue could be plugs, Coil Packs, a vacuum leak, air leaks on the inlet, clogged fuel filter (often forgotten at service)

A good service is the place to start

Good Luck

Dave

[Joseph80]

Greydog,
Thank you very much for your prompt reply, very much appreciated.

Joseph

[Joseph80]

Hi,

So I bought the Creator C310+ Code Reader C310 Multi System Scan Tool Compatible for BMW Diagnostic Tool. I connected it and it came up with Compression cylinder 2 & 3 .

As I mentioned the car splutters when I start it and have to dab the accelerator a few times to keep it going. 
The engine light comes on. After a while the engine smooths out and seems to run well but the Engine Orange Warning light stays on. I can clear it but that is not resoling the problem.

Do you feel a full service, plugs, coil, fuel/oil filter will resolve it or could it be something more drastic??!!??

 

Any advice is always appreciated.

 

Cheers 
Joseph

[X5smw]

If you are loosing compression on two neighbouring cylinders when it’s cold, I would look into head gasket and cylinder head skimming possibly? As the engine heats up, the gap will close due to expansion and stop the compression leak. If it was a plug issue then the misfire would be constant (usually) 

[Joseph80]

Thanks for the reply.
What I found this morning when I started the car, no splutter, no orange engine warning light and diagnostic showed no fault, totally confused now. May have to take it to a garage which is something I would rather not do but the last thing I want is to ruin the engine by driving it .

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph

I would check that spark plugs are fitted  and torqued correctly also check injectors and seals. They are the simple things If as Stu says Compression is down due to a faulty head gasket then major engine work is required.

Dave

[Joseph80]

Many thanks, will do that first.

 

Joseph

[Joseph80]

Many thanks for all your replies.

So over the weekend we changed coils, plugs, oil filter, pollen filter and air filter.

Before I had  " Compression cylinder 2 & 3 ."

Now when I start the car, it still difficult to start and it pops up with:-

1 - 29CD DME - Combustion misfire cylinder 1

2 - 29CE DME - Combustion misfire cylinder 2

3 - 29CC DME - Combustion misfires, several cylinders.

 

Could this be down to the Vanos need cleaning, or something more drastic

 

Appreciate any tips/advice. 

 

Many thanks

 

Joseph

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph

Simple things first check very carefully the loom to the coil packs it isn't unknown for the loom to chafe and short also check that it is connected correctly.

Normally you would get a Vanos Fault code but it is worth checking the Vanos solenoid 

Dave

[Joseph80]

Thanks Dave,

I checked the connectors and cables and all seems OK. I also disconnected the battery and waited 15 minutes, then reconnected.

I started the car and it had a rough idle and orange engine light came on with 29CD/CE/CC Combustion cylinder 1& 2, several cylinders, cleared the codes.

I waited until this morning and started the car and it runs fine, I took it for a drive and seemed OK BUT could this be because I cleared the fault on my diagnostic device or do you think it may be resolved.

Just concerned whether I make long journeys or not.

As you said if it was Vanos then it would come up on the fault code different to 29 CD/CE/CC.

If it was injectors, would fault have the 29 code faults or would it be a separate code to 29.

Dare I say if the fault comes back on could it be a more drastic problem???

 

Any advice always appreciated.
 

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph

You say you checked the connectors and cables ? How? As an Example the Coil pack loom is around 21/2 ft (80cm) long or did you check the wires and connector at each coil pack. Have you checked the loom and connectors for the injectors ?

The fault code identifies a Combustion misfire, to achieve combustion you need Fuel, Air and a Spark

So if we assume the Inlet Manifold is OK that leaves Injectors or Spark

Personally I would remove the plugs and carry out a compression test on 1 &2 if compression is OK and the Plugs are OK (personally I would just change all 4) I would swap say number 1 and number 4 injectors if a misfire moves it points you to the injectors. Last the coil packs same scenario, of course before any of this I would have checked both looms for continuity and any marks or signs of chaffing 

Dave 

[Joseph80]

Thanks Dave,

I will re-check more closely the wire and connectors again more closely. I will swap over the injectors and see if the fault changers from 1&2 to something else, if it does then I know it will be the injector.

I have already replaced all 4 plugs and coils.

 

It changed from cylinder 2 &3 before the changing the plugs and coils, after changing them it changed to cylinders 1 & 2.

 

Will keep you updated.

 

Joseph

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph 

The simple fact that you have already had the fault move when swapping replacing parts should tell you something?

Assuming that (a) the coil packs are New and at least OEM quality and correct for the car (b) The spark plugs are new and correct for the car (even a new part can fail) When you were changing those parts you must have disturbed the loom 

I would check each connection for continuity while getting an assistant to twist/move the loom 

Have you checked the inlet manifold for leaks?

Dave

[Joseph80]

Thanks again for your advice. I will check all the connectors and loom.

Yes both the coils and plugs were new and all Bosch, thought it best to go for better quality.

Not sure how to check for manifold leaks but will Google.

 

Thanks again for you prompt advice.

 

Joseph

[Greydog]

  To check for manifold leaks I use a piece of frayed cotton which I pull around all joints if there is a leak it will get sucked towards the leak. Pay attention to the manifold to head fitting area.

as for coils Bosch should be OK though I believe Delphi were OEM fitment 

If you haven't already check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. BMW moved from the N43 engine to the N46N I am not sure if it makes a difference to the coil packs or not, worth checking

Dave

[Joseph80]

Hi Dave,

I started the car yesterday after leaving it for 3 days in the garage and it was as rough as anything, which was strange as 3 days ago I drove it for 30 miles there and 30 miles back no problem or warning lights.

Yet yesterday, the engine warning light came back on, flashing orange this time and more fault code on my diagnostic that I can believe. 

I will attach the screen shots.

Over the weekend I think I will check everything we did to ensure all cables, coils and spark plugs are fitted correctly.

This car is slowly driving me around the bend. Someone asked me if the car has been calibrated to the coils/injectors.

3A1336CA-720D-4793-B9D4-814A5B4626E3.heic 677C90AA-DBC4-4B31-93F8-EC9074B43C4C.heic A794167F-808A-43B7-90C4-F526541627ED.heic 1080D70B-B213-4626-ABA9-D846B38B142C.heic 35E0B85E-375F-490F-B58B-0E751772EB1A.heic 81BC22A3-2D97-42E3-9BF1-F78E5B5C9387.heic 7E154AB2-5160-4F99-9B3C-A7273A22D9F2.heic AAC7A883-A6FB-4CDE-A8D2-07D05D4A6059.heic 3C3776FA-A03F-41BE-89F3-8D13B7D0298B.heic 16670628-553B-4D01-B8C1-5FDE6C874562.heic 1977DFEB-590B-49E5-A228-D49C7A70E259.heic FFF6A3BF-DCC1-46DA-BF0A-1763EC29F22A.heic 6DB40189-FFE8-4AE3-ADC4-AE898A6BD88A.heic C18B33A7-189F-4D4C-9BDC-79B05D1AF4F6.heic B5A4D855-A420-4896-B880-E47C8FC50027.heic 70AEF985-AD63-464E-A254-729B4E754069.heic 9437B98F-6BEF-410D-B356-1E7109460B55.heic 733D2B55-CECD-488C-8DD2-1E501949AA93.heic A658041D-3098-4F69-AD16-27B82C49C507.heic 7147ED7E-19ED-48DB-AFDE-774050823EB9.heic 8E3657FD-8613-446A-8AF0-A06056B28968.heic

[Greydog]

Morning Joseph

Can't view your screen shots for some reason but it seems clear to me you need help from someone with more mechanical knowledge 

Fault codes are not always the cause often a symptom, awhile a reader may let you clear the faults it can't fix them

That takes a little detective work or a few years knowledge or both

Dave

[Joseph80]

Thought I would update everyone.

So after many many months of trying to find out where it spluttered and went into default and changing:

1 - Plugs twice
2 - Coils twice
3 - Cylinder head

4 - Checked all wiring 

5 -Checked injectors.

 

It was coil number 2, which was faulty twice, even swapping them around didn't show anything.

So it just goes to show patience and perseverance works eventually, glad the AA paid part of the garage bill.

Now the car runs like a dream.

Thanks to all of you for your input very much appareciated.