10,000 mile tyre scrub out !

[Neenoo]

Hi all, I just took a look at my "new" tyres....after just 10k miles the rears (Hankook runflats), are shot. It's a 2006 325dM, I do like to drive it but I'm no maniac.

I had the alignment done at time of fitting these tyres, they appear to show even wear,

I don't think I have alignment/tracking issues, I do tend to carry loads quite often,

Is this about what I can expect?

Any suggestions for a better life tyre ?

[Greydog]

Hi Ian

Welcome to the Forum

My experience is your rear suspension is probably worn there are a lot of rubber bushes and a Rose joint while they may look OK they tend to soften so when you "Drive" your car it allows the rear tyres to squirm changing the geometry and accelerating wear. If your car hasn't had the suspension rebuilt then on a 2006 model I would expect it to need it on age if not mileage.

 

My X5 E53 4.6is (360+hp) on 20" wheels is currently running Hankook tyres 275x40x20 Front 315x35x20 Rear suspension was rebuilt 2 years ago wear is even miles covered 29k they will be replaced later this year. My E70 3.0d runs the same size wheels Tyres are Michelin in the same sizes 12k covered and about half worn. I rebuild the suspension at between 80 and 100k.

Hope this helps

Dave

[Neenoo]

cheers Dave, you might be right there, I've been concerned about the complex rubber-bushery-business under there.

I see there are aftermarket kits, I really don't fancy going to the "stealership" for parts... Might it be a false economy going for cheaper parts, especially as it looks like a bit of a job to change them !...any thoughts ?

[Greydog]

Morning Ian

I have brought rebuild kits from the well known Auction site, the last one for my 4.6is cost just under £200 and was Mehyle who are OEM suppliers as are Febi. I made my own Rose Joint removal/insertion tool from some scrap Tube scrounged from a local factory and a length of studding. All the other parts are just remove and replace. The only other cost was the eccentric bolts I have learned that due to rust it is easier to cut them off and replace them (tip, mark the position of the eccentric bolt heads before removal so the new one goes back in the same place) Rust is the biggest problem so I soak the bolts and nuts with release fluid (not WD40) for a week before and as I am replacing not reusing if they wont play I use a reciprocating saw and cut them off.

Once done I have the alignment checked on a Hunter 4 wheel alignment machine at a local garage.

Dave