BMW 2003 E60 520i 6 Cylinder Automatic - Brake Replacement

[Mackers UK]

Hi All,

New to the forum and I've got some questions as I get the car ready for its MOT.

Brakes:

The brakes 'work' but they don't look 'good' at all - all four discs look like the cross section of a cut-down tree and my paranoia thinks some marks look like cracks.  The pads are pretty much gone all round.  On the off-side-rear - the 'working area' is very small compared to the near-side-rear.  The hand-brake is low effort and when I rotate the wheel I can hear a noise, which, if it was a classic mini (drum brakes) - I would say the shoe material is no longer attached.  Looking at the rest of the brakes on this car though - they could be extremely crusty instead.  With the handbrake on, the car does struggle to pull away, but it does move a bit - so something is working - but if I am taking it apart - 'while I'm in there' sings loudly.  I think replacing most of the braking system is the wisest choice.  I have no lights on the dash which is alarming considering how anemic the pads look.

Using RealOEM and the serial number from the VIN plate - I'm confused with the brake pad part numbers.  I've tried to highlight that the front pad link shows both front and rear pad part numbers.  However, there is a rear pad link that shows a different part number.  This is causing hair loss.  A friend has a tiny clear slot for his ramp and assistance on the 23rd and I need to get the parts ordered - really do not want to mess them around.  Does anyone know which rear pad part number is correct?

Front Suspension:

Using a calibrated foot and safety slippers - I can push the front wheels towards the A-Pillar (front to back) half inch to an inch - ish.  As I do not want to waste time on the ramp - I am thinking of using the Meyle 'Link Set' 316 050 0104/HD which should be the complete lower arm set for the front of the car including the drop links.  Has anyone used this brand before and is there anything else that could cause or contribute to the front wheels moving front to back that I might have missed?

Any help and advice will be welcome.

The sob story part is I am now a full time carer for a recently widowed parent, now I've moved back into the old family home, the car will not be doing many miles other than appointment and shopping runs.  Thus, I do not need dealer grade parts.  I was thinking of using Bosch for the brakes as they do the pads, shoes and discs - I am hoping that they would have tested their products to work with their products.  Hopefully I can avoid 'this pad warps this disc' etc that seems to be a thing with aftermarket parts.  My parents stopped racing in the late 80's and I've only done a couple events in the late 90's - so we don't need 'performance' or 'race' parts - we need 'these will work' and not 'cheapest no-name-make'.  I am looking at this as a 'once and done' event - I've got my Dads (RIP) Volvo 850 estate that is currently in pieces in the shed - a massive task - so I don't have spare capacity to baby sit the E60 - but it is currently looking like it will be the front-line vehicle for a year or so.  It probably wasn't the best purchase to be made, but when the Volvo dropped it's guts during the emissions test (which it oddly passed) we needed something quick and this was local.

Cheers for taking the time to read this waffle.

Chris

PS When a used car dealer says 'don't worry, we'll look after you' - run away.

[Greydog]

Morning Chris

Oh dear !! First you know know how much you can save as you have BMW OEM prices 😁

Looking at your pictures (dangerous but I assume the first 2 pics are front next 2 rear) First calliper's are sticking or pads jamming or a combination of both. So they need stripping and cleaning make sure the calliper is free on it's slide pins and that the piston is moving freely, make sure the calliper body is very clean and that pads fit and move easily in their seats. DONT operate the brakes without either a piston compression tool in place or pads and a disc.

Part numbers I think you will find there are 2 disc sizes for the front of your car 310 x 24mm and 324 x 30mm which is why you have 2 part numbers for pads. Measure the disc if unsure. Rear pads you have 1 part number 

Now to the money saving part last year I changed Front and rear discs on a 535d touring for one of our sons friends, he brought a set of rear Discs pads and handbrake shoes for £110 and a set of Front discs 324 x 30mm  with pads for £105 all from Ebay (just called him and asked) all fitted perfectly and work faultlessly. I used him as slave labour to do all the cleaning and scrubbing to get all the crud off then an easy Saturday morning stripping and fitting

Dave

 

[Mackers UK]

Hi Dave, 

The first (top) two photos are indeed the front (both have a chunk of the wheel obstructing the pictures), they have similar 'shiny' wear areas on the disc.  The bottom two are the rear - with a big difference in the 'shiny' wear areas on the disc.  I agree, I think it will be best to do a hefty cleaning/inspection of all the calipers - especially the rear.  As the discs will be coming off - I am hoping to hit all the things while I am in there.

As for the part numbers from RealOEM - it is the rear that has two part numbers:

- One rear axle part number is in the RealOEM picture with red circles - the lower red circle is for the rear axle - number ending 290.  (note: this picture lists front axle and rear axles).

- One rear axle part number is in the RealOEM picture with just red lines - number ending 043.  (note: this picture lists just the rears).

I will check Ebay, I'm kinda worried about getting !Removed! brand parts in a shiny brands box - hopefully there is a legit offering to be had though.  Yeah - the BMW Ebay team don't do the older cars - the helpful chap did send my request to a dealer to get the prices - wierdly their quote has 'Manual' on one of the parts quoted lol.

Cheers for the help Dave,

Chris.

[Mackers UK]

Hi Dave,

Well, Ebay was the way forwards, at least so far - the sellar was helpful and rapid with replies - I gave the reg and vin - they supplied their links to the items.

All done 'one-stop-shop' and half the price.

I'll get some pictures when the work is being done and update the thread - it might help someone else in the future.

Cheers,

Chris

[Greydog]

Just did a Realoem search and worked out why you had confusion your first picture was Value Line showing Front Part number 339270    Rear Part number 339290    The second Rear axel only picture is BMW not their so called Value Line Part number 763043

Glad you are sorted I don't know how good your DIY skills are but if this helps 

Tools apart from a socket set and allen keys plus a soft faced mallet make sure you have brake cleaner spray a couple of wire brushes and I also have a small brass bristled brush plus a tube of Copper grease

Good luck I hope cleaning and greasing sort it out with nothing else needing replacing

Just took a look at your last post as you say half BMW's Quote plus it includes the suspension kit when theirs was Brakes only!! Result As an aside Meyle are still I believe OEM suppliers 😅

Now we know what you will be doing at the weekend 🤣 still could be worse you could have the grass to cut as well

Dave

[Mackers UK]

aaaaah, that makes sense, so I typically brain-farted when trying to work something out - that is 110% possible.  Cheers for taking the time to look into that Dave.  I'm petrified of taking the car apart, then finding out I have the wrong parts.

A family friend who raced with my parents in the late 80's is letting me use their ramp on the 23rd - I think the plan is I do what I can, then shout when it gets technical (they teach mechanics at the local college).  After my motorbike crash my mobility isn't great - I am hoping the ramp will let me physically do most of it without interupting them while they do other work.  At 20 years old, I can imagine the car being a pig to take apart - especially as there is a mix of aluminium and steel clumped together in a small place (not the wisest combination).  If the pistons still move in the calipers I am hoping it will go ok.  I think I read that the brakes are normally 50k items, with the car being 100k - I'm guessing at worst it's been apart once in its life - at best it has been apart a couple of times - time will tell.

I am petrified of finding other problems, there are alot of 'single use' bolts on modern cars - at 20 years old - 'on the shelf' emergency replacements locally would be rare.  I certainly don't want it immobilised on their ramp after finding something else - I hate being a pita.

I am hoping Meyle parts will do the job too - especially the brakes - I like it when the same manufacturer does the pads and discs - as logically, you'd expect them to test their products together.  The handbrake shoe kit comes with all the springs/gubbins too - nice.

I must rememeber to clear out the sun-roof drains behind the silly plastic arch liners (front and rear) - apparently they can clog up with schmoo - then flood the wonderfully placed electronics in the boot, under the spare wheel and the ecu mounted right under the front scuttle.  (golf clap that guy).

Funny you mention the grass...  Luckily we still have an 80's sit-down mower - briggs and stratton 4 stroke powered and electric start!  Smokes like a trooper for the first 5 minutes then chugs on happily.  Unfortunately, the front garden is mostly concrete driveway - the little grass out there needs the push mower - pull cord 😞 still, it has power assist so I don't have to push the thing 🙂

I will grab some pictures when the poor car is on the ramp though, hopefully it might help someone in the future.

Cheers again Dave, you've been a great help.

Chris.

[Mackers UK]

Small update, the ebay seller has despatched the parts already !  If they turn up and are correct - I will buy a lottery ticket!

[Greydog]

Hi Chris 

As your doing the suspension as well get a big can of Penetrating fluid and soak the mounting nuts a few times

Take a look at www.pelicanparts.com choose BMW then DIY Articles it is an American sight but apart from the steering being on the wrong side the cars are the same. Their DIY How To's are great with pictures and tip's I am sure you will find it useful.

Dave

[Mackers UK]

Hi Dave,

I'll check that out - cheers.

Sometimes I do wish there was a penetrating fluid bath you can drive the car through haha!  I live near the coast, South East UK - everything rusts.

Cheers,

Chris

EDIT : Any suggestions on penetrating fluid?  I might start spraying and praying now - maybe a few kinetic suggestions too.

Edited October 5, 2023 by Mackers UK
added text

[Greydog]

Morning Chris

I use the one from Halfords a tip I was given years ago was Lemon Juice I have used it a couple of times on really heavily rusted items, if left for a day it really breaks down the heavy rust then back to the penetrating fluid. In really extreme cases a bit of heat helps.

Dave

[Mackers UK]

Hi Dave,

Sorry for the late reply - random seat at Paddock Hill Stand came up at Brands Hatch BTCC on Sunday!  Very good racing all day and very very hot!  Plus multiple Spitfire visits including some pretty good barrel rolls - always nice to see.  Oddly, I can still identify the sweet sweet sound of a Merlin over the wonderful noise of racing cars.

Got to meet my Favourite Colin Turkington and saw BMWs put on a great show, especially the 3rd race.  I will skip past the heart-breaking 2nd race which saw #4 get the off-side-rear ripped out leaving druids.  Completed the obligatory picking up a chunk of 'tire marble' off the track as a unique momento during the pit walk.  Got to chat with some of the Marshalls and Recovery teams too, which I always like to thank, as without the Orange Army - we wouldn't have motorsport.  Much needed brilliant day out and away from the horrendous madness of day-to-day existence.

Today, pretty much struggling to walk (it was a long day yesterday) - I have recieved the parts for the car!  Superbly packaged, 3 days ahead of schedule and so far looks genuine.

Aaah yes, the Lemons and the Vinegars - the family friendly acids.  I will pop down to Halfords and grab a couple of the options.  I still use GT-85 and concussive forces on my classic cars (I know, it's a lubricant and not a penetrating fluid) but the combo has worked well in the past - if not - heat 'dun-did-the-job'.  However with a car that has a fair amount of aluminium, I'm kinda worried about the use of heat.

Cheers for the suggestions, I'll make note of the victors when the job gets done, for the update.

Chris.

[Greydog]

Known d*ck Bennets for years since WSR were in Addlestone,  looks as though you had a great day always take the pleasure before any possible pain 🤣🤣

Good Luck

Dave