Update: I checked my battery and it charged in 5 minutes, so I don't have to find another alternator. All seems to be OK except for the plastic "L"s with a short rubber hose that bypass the HV/AC solenoid. Those get clogged after @ 150,000-190,000 miles (if distilled water wasn't used) and cause air pockets that try to burst radiators. I have a few more brass "L"s, so now I can throw the plastic ones away. I have to be careful I don't fog the windows though, without heat or cool.
You are absolutely right. The strange thing is that when I put the chassis number on the realoem it shows that the temp sensor is not applicable on my vehicle. I will physically check for a sensor.
In the meantime, do you think that the removal of the MAP activated thermostat will effect the temp gauge on the dial instrument item 6?
I am tempted to add a dummy resistor , 11.5ohms - 13watts , to simulate the MAP thermostat.
Your thoughts?
Morning Andrew
I normally disconnect the Neg lead only, some folks disconnect both a few even say disconnect both and touch them together.
Goes without saying both sensor plugs need to be checked and a squirt of contact cleaner applied never hurts 😅
Dave
Hi Dave, I fitted one of the sensors on the rear but it has made no effect as the light is still there, I will fit the other sensor tomorrow and see how it goes then. You mention the disconnect the battery, is there any pattern to this ? is it both leads or just the negative lead? cheers Paneuro.
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