E30 318I Touring Overheating?

[Jayzzle]

Hi all, My e30 318i touring has developed an annoying problem. As I was stuck in traffic one day it overheated, lost a little bit of water out of the rad. I left it to cool down for about half an hour, and then put some more water in it, now it seems that whenever I'm not moving, the car overheats. I have had the thermostat out and in a pan of hot water, it started to open at about 93-94 degrees C, the heater still chucks out hot air, the fan still spins, when I'm driving along its fine, sits about halfway in the normal range, but when I'm stopped at traffic lights or in traffic, it heats up to just over 3/4 (it might go further I have only been stuck in traffic long enough for it to get to that temperature before moving off again). I've googled it and the general concensus is the thermostat, second in line as a culprit is the viscous fan unit (which has started screeching a little?). But it does seem to lose water a lot. I really don't know what to do about it or things I can try to rectify the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks guys. John.

[Guest Mister Dabsy]

Early symptoms for an head gasket replacement I'm afraid...

Exactly how much water does she need daily?

[Jayzzle]

About 2L from an empty drinks bottle, and then today I filled it right to the top of the rad and it just seemed to drain it almost straight away. It drained to about half I think.

[Jayzzle]

When it overheated the first time it was leaking from the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator I think, when it's running, I can see water leaking from the engine end of the top hose, the viscous unit screeches a lot, I just snapped the top hose jubilee clip so I can't confirm this atm, but tomorrow I will be getting a new one. I hope it isn't a head gasket problem, I've not changed one for a long time, and never really done much work on bmw's. Is it hard to change a head gasket on an M40? Thanks.

[Guest Mister Dabsy]

Much easier than a straight-six thats for sure... If the top-hose feels solid then head gasket. Anything happening at the water-pump?

Hows the oil?

[Jayzzle]

Well the top hose is about as solid when the engine is warm as the bottom hose, but I just discovered there is a leak at the tiny hose that is at the bottom of the rad under the top hose, every time I put water in I can see it leaking from there. The oil seems ok, none of that gunky white stuff at the filler cap or any sign of it inside there. I actually don't know where the water pump is lol. But that must be working as the heater blows hot air? I went to a scrap yard yesterday to see if they had a jubilee clip (cos I snapped the top hose clip) and described the problem to him, he also thought it was the viscous unit. I was unsure about wether to change the thermostat or not. Thans for your help Dabsy.

[Jayzzle]

I'll do a post soon

[Jayzzle]

Dabsy, the water loss turned out to be a crack in my radiator, once I replaced that I haven't lost a drop of water. The thermostat isn't what's causing the problem, as I have since taken that out and driven it without it in just to check, there is either an air lock somewhere, or the waterpump is dead. I took it to a garage and they agreed that the head has not yet blown on it. but without further testing could not point me in the direction of the culprit. I will change the water pump as soon as i can figure out how to, or even where it is. Thanks again for your help :)

[Guest Mister Dabsy]

Better news than expected, matey ;)

[Jayzzle]

Yeah, I took the waterpump out today, no signs of damage and it spins like it should. I'm pretty sure that the overheating and water not circulating was down to an air lock, originally caused by overheating at a traffic jam in a hot day. New problem is the waterfall coming out of the thermostat housing lol. I just bought some liquid gasket and applied, just waiting for it to dry. It was idling yesterday, and I just kept filling it up with water when it got too low, the air lock dissapeared, my heater started blowing out hot air again, and it never went above just under halfway on the temp guage, I'm pretty cinfident that the problem is now solved, just have to stop that waterfall... Thanks again.

[Guest Mister Dabsy]

Excellent result :) We all know that water will only "Boil" @ 100 degs C - AND only if air is present to allow it to expand, therefore your description will be more than valuable to all new/existing members... Good post mukka ;)

[Jayzzle]

Well. Turns out that the waterfall is not coming from the thermostat or waterpump. I can see it pouring from behind the crank pulley but unsure of where it's coming from. I'm just going to assume that the there is a crack in the block somewhere. Anyone know of any quick fixes for this new issue? Thanks.

[Guest DazH]

Hey John,

Read the entire thread and after every post in my head I said, "Viscous" :) The symptoms to me point to the viscous especially if you can hear a screeching coming from it that may suggest the viscous clutch is dry inside and no longer functioning. The viscous can become faulty within such a slight degree of error as they are precision engineered! I would change it indefinitely as it is very important when in traffic!

My story is, I suffered serious cylinder head failure. This was because of a chain of events that all directed back to the viscous not functioning. My engine overheated. Water boiled away. Temperature gauge did not show it as the water had boiled away and left the temp sensor exposed to only air not water. Cylinder head expanded. Head bolts snapped. All down hill from there. All because of Mr.Viscous

HTH

Waterfall from the front of the engine? How far up? It can only be a crack in the block if its below the cylinder head. Might be a cracked cylinder head? Doubt it at this stage although overheating does JUST THAT. Clean and dry that part of the engine and check the thermostat and water-pump bolts are firmly tightened and watch that space.

Daz

[Jayzzle]

Daz, it turns out that the waterfall was caused by water pouring out from a dead bolt (which has since sheared off, now I have to try and get it out >.<) in the top hose housing on the engine side, it just looked like it was coming from behind the crank pulley because it leaked down inside the engine and poured from the bottom. As for the viscous unit, I tend to agree, however since taking it off to mess with the waterpump the screech it had stopped, but I will change it anyway just to be sure. When I put the thermostat and the water pump back in i sealed both with liberal amounts of liquid gasket, neither are leaking. The car still overheats when stuck in traffic, but so far only up to 3/4. I'm unsure of how to progress from here, maybe if I can stop that leak it will stop overheating, and then again, that would point to the viscous also as when driving the cold air slamming against the radiator would cool the water anyway. Thanks for your input. I will update as soon as it has stopped to let you everyone know what fixed it. Thanks again for all your help and input guys. John

[Guest DazH]

Daz, it turns out that the waterfall was caused by water pouring out from a dead bolt (which has since sheared off, now I have to try and get it out >.<) in the top hose housing on the engine side, it just looked like it was coming from behind the crank pulley because it leaked down inside the engine and poured from the bottom. As for the viscous unit, I tend to agree, however since taking it off to mess with the waterpump the screech it had stopped, but I will change it anyway just to be sure. When I put the thermostat and the water pump back in i sealed both with liberal amounts of liquid gasket, neither are leaking. The car still overheats when stuck in traffic, but so far only up to 3/4. I'm unsure of how to progress from here, maybe if I can stop that leak it will stop overheating, and then again, that would point to the viscous also as when driving the cold air slamming against the radiator would cool the water anyway. Thanks for your input. I will update as soon as it has stopped to let you everyone know what fixed it. Thanks again for all your help and input guys. John

Glad you found where the water was coming from. Strip it down and tap a new thread into the engine for that dead bolt.

Yup, get that viscous changed asap as it is so vital. A leak which is bad enough can indeed cause an overheat as coolant pressure keeps the boiling point down!

Keep us posted

[Jayzzle]

New Viscous ordered, waiting for delivery. Will update as soon as it's fitted and tested. :)

[Jayzzle]

So the new (second hand) viscous is fitted. I'm not so sure it's working tbh, when sat in traffic it still gets quite hot, still just to 3/4 cos I haven't sat in traffic for that long, but probably it will go higher if I leave it. I don't know what else to try. I'm certain (and a local garage is certain) that it's not a head gasket problem. That water leak from the engine side of the top hose is still there, so maybe that's the problem? No garage seems to be able to get the bolt out. I'm at a loss lol. Any thoughts of what to try next?

[bonner 330ci]

Hi bud best bet its to find yourself a local engineer!! Theyd get the nackard bolt out no problem and while your there get em to tap your new thread will only cost a drink if a good job give him 2! if you cant find no one try a metal works factory and speak to someone there! once sorted why not buy all new jubilee clips for those hoses and find out the torque settings for those bolts that have been taken out? always worth a go if unsure on the head gasket there is a chemical test you can do! good luck

[Guest DazH]

Hmmm was defo worth a try. Have you changed the coolant temp sensor? (usually the blue one)

Daz

[Jayzzle]

Sorry for not reply till now, I've had a lot going on. Reading back through the thread, I see where I left off. To update everyone, the dead bolt is still in the engine, I haven't found anyone willing or able to get it out, I was thinking of just JB welding that top hose housing onto the engine but I'm not sure if it will work? I did get the new vsicous and fit it, but it still overheats at idle/stop-go. I seem to be able to control its heat by turning the heating on full whack, but that's annoying because I have to be seriously hot everytime theres even a hint of traffic lol. It isn't losing any water at all now, it's been full every week I have checked it so I'm guessing the viscous is still the problem. Instead of shelling out for a new one and getting the same problem everytime it dies, is it worth converting to an electric fan? And if so is it also worth hooking it up to a switch so that I control it from the dash? The coolant temp sensor I haven't looked at, where would that be located? Thanks for all your help guys I really do appreciate it, and once again apologies for not updating for so long. Cheers. Jay

[Jayzzle]

Bonner - I have looked into it being the head gasket, there are a lot of checks on the internet that I did, dipstick colour, Coolant colour, that creamy gunky stuff on the filler cap, all have turned out normal. What is the chemical test you mentioned? Is it easy to do? Cheers mate. Jay

[Jayzzle]

Ok, it's been a while but I finally got that dead bolt out. A tonne of WD40, pair of mole grips and 3 hours later it's finally out. Happy days! So while I was messing around in the engine, I changed the plugs, sump plug, oil, oil filter, put correct coolant in instead of just water, changed the viscous unit again for a different one (because I wasn't sure if the other one was working or not) and put the fan shroud back on. Haven't checked it or driven it far yet (as it's getting dark) but I bled the system, stayed at about 1/4 on the dash gauge for roughly 15 minutes or so. A lot of smoke from the burning oil I spilled on the manifold, is that safe or should I clean it off? I got a flat one day last week so I put the spare on, it's a smaller wheel but bigger tyre, I put it on the N/S/R, but now any time I full lock, when the wheels are straight again it pulls badly to that side, any thoughts on this? I have changed the springs to some lowering springs, I couldn't live with the height the car was. If I got all the same size wheels (maybe some 16" instead of 15") and got the tracking done would that rectify this dragging after full lock problem? Thanks all and anyone who reads/responds lol.

Jay

[IanIOM]

A lot of smoke from the burning oil I spilled on the manifold, is that safe or should I clean it off?

I it's a smaller wheel but bigger tyre, I put it on the N/S/R, but now any time I full lock, when the wheels are straight again it pulls badly to that side, any thoughts on this? I have changed the springs to some lowering springs, I couldn't live with the height the car was. If I got all the same size wheels (maybe some 16" instead of 15") and got the tracking done would that rectify this dragging after full lock problem? Thanks all and anyone who reads/responds lol.

Get the correct side wheels on and that will help ( and to be fair legally they should all be the same size on the axle)

Personally I would clean it off but i accept you wont get it all!

[Jayzzle]

Thanks for your reply. I'll get to cleaning that off first thing, as for the wheels, there a nice looking set in a scappers near me I'm looking at so if it's just being caused by different sized wheels then that will also get sorted soon. Thanks again.

Jay

[Guest DazH]

Thanks for your reply. I'll get to cleaning that off first thing, as for the wheels, there a nice looking set in a scappers near me I'm looking at so if it's just being caused by different sized wheels then that will also get sorted soon. Thanks again.

Jay

To be honest, having the wrong size wheel on, WILL cause it to drag all over the gaf so yes, Change it.

If your getting the tracking done and don't cant to waste £30, change the drop links and control arms BEFORE you take it to be tracked B)

Keep us posted

Daz