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  1. Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.
    2 points
  2. Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.
    2 points
  3. Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!
    2 points
  4. Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave
    2 points
  5. Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave
    2 points
  6. Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Sadly we do live in times where extra protection is needed The good old Stop Lock is an excellent visual deterent. Whether the investment in a ghost immobiliser as well is worth the money no one can say untill it is needed. Personally the Stop Lock would be my choice (I use one when we are away from home) Dave
    1 point
  7. News to me! Thanks Dave. A wee quick drive 120km to the coast. Apparently there's a place in Benidorm wot copies them. Probably next to a pub that sells beer at £1 a pint. Whoopee...
    1 point
  8. On your advice I have left a message with Ash Motors North Wales. Many thanks again
    1 point
  9. 🤣 They may have their own Whats App Group 🤣🤣 scary who knows with AI Guess that means we are in trouble Dave
    1 point
  10. I know that feeling Dave, same thing after rolling out from under my Z3 at the weekend and the realisation that I'm not 21 anymore 🙂
    1 point
  11. is the new battery coded to the car? Does the car try to start or does it click once? If it clicks once, check the starter motor.
    1 point
  12. Thanks for all the help Dave. I have finally sorted it! I removed the Telematic Unit and took a closer look. The 4 terminals that connect to the fin were twisted and not aligned correctly. I fiddled around a bit and managed to sort these out. Next I checked the battery. The terminals were not actually touching the contacts when the lid was closed. This was mainly due to the fact that the clip on the lid had broken off and the lid was not closing fully to push the battery onto the contacts. So I bent the contacts out slightly, and stuck a piece of card on top of the battery and closed the lid and taped shut with some masking tape! Replaced the unit, connected the three cable connectors, and closed the tailgate. Waited a while and switched on the ignition and all the codes had cleared on there own!! No need to clear any faults. After checking all faults, nothing found!! After thinking that it could cost me a new Unit and Fin costing megga bucks, it cost nothing more than a new battery (£25) and a bit of elbow grease. Boy am I pleased!! I
    1 point
  13. OK, so had the stethoscope test done and yes, water pump had gone. Not a bad life to be fair, 97K mls. New one installed and also had the belt changed as well. Onwards.......
    1 point
  14. Hi Ken It shouldn't be possible to fit an OEM or OEM style replacement wrongly as the joins are 3 bolt flanges. So my guess would be either it is an After Market exhaust or a support hanger is broken/missing If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list, go to the Classic section then the model your considering check the exhaust section which will show both front and rear parts are fitted and supported. Dave
    1 point
  15. Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave
    1 point
  16. Many thanks once again Greydog Dave . I haven't yet contacted my auto electrician friend but when I do I'm sure he will find your information useful and interesting. He will take a while to visit me because of ill health but when he does I will contact you. Many thanks and a happy new year.
    1 point
  17. Another year coming to a close 😁 Wishing everyonea Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Hoping nothing wears out or drops off and the same goes for your cars Dave
    1 point
  18. Out shooting Thursday got to keep my dogs busy 🤣🤣 Good luck Stu
    1 point
  19. Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave
    1 point
  20. Morning Andrew The attached drawing is from www.realoem.com it seems to show you are infact missing a connection (item 6) Dave
    1 point
  21. Karl If you have a seized level sensor arm either change it or lubricate it as it really could be your issue. Fix faults first other wise trying to reset Fault Codes is a waste of time as they will just return. As I understand it each Headlamp has 3 modules (1) a main Headlamp module (2) a Headlamp Control Module (3) a Cornering Module make sure the plugs are clean unplug them a spray with Contact Cleaner and reconnect making sure they are seated correctly Then try disconnecting the battery to clear faults Dave
    1 point
  22. As BMW themselves produced a 116i 2.0ltr version parts shouldn't be to hard to track down use realoem get a list and see if finacially it's viable There is always the old syaing by Carol Shelby when a guy asked him how fast a Shelby Cobra was, His answer, "speed costs money son how fast can you afford to go" Remember back in the 70's Brabham Racing were using BMW 1.5 ltr engines in their F1 cars two turbos (1 big and 1 very big) 900/1000hp in race trim 1200hp for qualifying. The engines were standard blocks selected customers ran them on the road to get heat cycles into the blocks. Customer engines were swapped and the blocks went to Brabham.
    1 point
  23. As an after thought just checked my rear sensor it had been dislodged and set back so was seeing th bumper edge as a hazard, Dohhh So check they are all sitting right Dave
    1 point
  24. Here you go Stu don't know if this helps or not You can see the Front sensors working the rear sensor is acting up after I jet washed it Dave P1000915.MOV
    1 point
  25. Hi Dave. Yes,at last and hopefully it will stay dry. I have just had the car washed and dryed at a local hand wash - car wash and hopefully that will produce a good result for my pension money investment towards keeping the car !! As they say "Watch this space"😁
    1 point
  26. Yeah, the ice cream was definitely easier to clean up than that. But gotta love the smile on the little one 😂
    1 point
  27. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ice cream would be easier to clear up 🤣🤣 Got a fold up dog cage I could lend you as long as no one dobs us in to Child Welfare 🤣🤣🤣
    1 point
  28. Morning Stu She has it in for you 🤣 The job is really simple takes longer to uncover the throttle body than actually change it. 4 bolts hold it in place unplug it and don't drop the seal when you take it off. As an aside have you checked the Vac lines that connect to it's mount. If I remember take the covers off take the big elbow that goes to the Maff off 4 M6 bolts (I think) hold the Throttle body to the inlet manifold there is a seal between the manifold and the throttle body dont do my trick and drop it 🤣 Check realoem that may help Enjoy your Saturday Dave
    1 point
  29. Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check
    1 point
  30. The 2 torques holding it in are not tonight tight but I can here it sooki g from there,will have to pull everything back off again,the car goes fine the engine management light came on so checked hoses and one of the jubilee clips were loose and there was a gap,have sorted that hopefully light will stay off now
    1 point
  31. Morning Steven As far as I am aware you need to change the complete assembly as I haven't heard or read of anyone servicing them. You could try companies like Cartronix or ECU Testing (Google should help find them) both have good Reputations As far as I know the butterfly is closed until energised, then open enough to allow idle settings Good Luck Dave
    1 point
  32. Update! turns out i was not being silly! the actual Uk part number is 51238402614. it is specific to RHD cars and not on the parts lists. ( bmw have it as 615 showing the LHD version, which is all people seem to stock. ) picking one up from my next local dealership this week for £25! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
    1 point
  33. Thank you for info. Got my manual at https://repairmanualnow.com/product-category/cars/bmw/ and it looks good will post some screenshots later on.
    1 point
  34. I can confirm that THULE FITTING KIT 184003 with the 753 feet fits perfectly on my 2024 320i Touring. For those of you that have the 753 and don't want to waste money bying Thule's latest model.
    1 point
  35. It's a 2.8 with just under 40k on the clock will need all the ushall things done breaks shockes etc etc sills etc look but please come and view for yourself before bidding...no advisories on previous mots for rust, need a good wire brush underneath and parts will need replacing as it has been sitting for 5 years on road not grass and been undercover, Stunning black and blue leather interior some wear on drivers seat, leather paint will easily sort this. If ur looking for a cracking low millage low owner project then look no further, projects like this dont come along to often, runs really good engine is very strong but obviously it will need a full service,abs light and traction control light on probably due to being sittin Exterior had no rust apart from stone chips that have got bit rusty there is a few scratches on the boot lid and couple of small marks around body work £3500 £4k with new parts
    1 point
  36. Cheers Dave, thanks a lot! They're in the UK, so time will tell on something such as Group Litigation that will take place. Besides all that negative, I love the E30. Great site, great to be here.
    1 point
  37. yes - changed out both cam sensors - exhaust side one had engine oil inside- and all been well since
    1 point
  38. Morning Stu Mole grips on the cable end has always worked for me Just asked an ex BMW Tech he says same part just the lever and mount are handed Dave
    1 point
  39. Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum As you have had a few "practice" models the E53 will be a doddle 😂🤣 All E53's feel heavy on the steering my wife won't drive the X5's unless it is essential (can be a bonus) Enjoy your new hobby Dave
    1 point
  40. history and good old gut feeling. Condition and loads of history with money no object kind of ownership. What i do with cars with expensive parts is i build up a car slush fund, over time you can dip in to the slush fund to maintain it. Build up the car slush fund to a level that if anything bad happens u can cover a big chunk of it. Like a personal warranty where the money is in your bank and not a warranty / dealers bank account.
    1 point
  41. Morning Dermot If your on the www.realoem.com site and find the item you need double click the Part Number and you will get a list of other models it was used on and any alternates Dave
    1 point
  42. My money is on a drain George
    1 point
  43. Morning Dermot Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the section you need. You will find the Part Number for the OEM part. Then use that for your Internet search that way any items you find should fit. There are many out there Sachs, Bilstein, Monroe to name a few Good Hunting Dave
    1 point
  44. For anyone else, found a great youtube footage on a fix for this, which is to use a self adhesive foam pushed between the 'eyebrow' and headlight which seals that route for water. You can then get lamps out use hairdryer to dry light out an a wire rid with cloth to clean the inside of the lens before putting headlight bulb back and back into service. Looks like a good fix, needs patience but best I have seen. Here is the link.
    1 point
  45. Thanks very much for welcome, I've done the history search via BMW dealer and there's none there! As the one previous owner was a sales manager for a large franchise, I'm thinking they did the servicing but maybe didn't have access to the BMW system to update it. I'm getting it serviced at main dealer next month and that will allow me to purchase a warranty from BMW or possibly elsewhere as BMW warranty dept pretty useless so far. Just back from 3 days in Yorkshire and it is an amazing car to drive for sure! Cheers Dave
    1 point
  46. Hi, Yes. The BMW decoder worked well. I do indeed have a G21. I'm off to Dorset soon, so really looking forward to giving it a good run. Full spec below: S90A 90 AH AGM battery L812A Great Britain/Ireland version P337A M Sports package S1AGA Larger-capacity fuel tank S1CBA CO2-scope S1PDA 18'' M light-alloy wheels double spoke 790 M bicolor with tires of different makes and types and emergency running properties S230A EU-specific additional contents S248A Steering-wheel heating S258A Tires with emergency running properties S2PAA Locking wheel bolts S2TBA Steptronic sport transmission S2VBA Tire Pressure Monitor S2VLA Variable sport steering S302A Alarm system S322A Comfort Access S3KAA Acoustic glass S3MCA M roof rack high-gloss Shadowline S418A Luggage-compartment package S428A Warning triangle S430A Interior and exterior mirror package S431A Interior rear-view mirror with automatic anti-dazzle function S481A Sports seats for driver and front passenger S493A Storage compartment package S494A Seat heating for driver and front passenger S4KLA Interior trims Aluminum 'Mesh Effect' S4URA Ambient light S534A Automatic climate control S544A Cruise control with braking function S5A1A LED fog lights S5A4A LED headlight with extended equipment specification S5AQA Active Guard Plus S5DAA Front passenger's airbag deactivation S5DCA Rear-seat headrests, folding S5DNA Parking assistant Plus S610A BMW Head-Up Display S654A DAB tuner S688A Harman Kardon Surround Sound system S6AEA TeleServices S6AFA Statutory emergency request S6AKA/S6C4A ConnectedDrive services S6DRA BMW Drive Recorder S6NWA Telephony with wireless charging S6U3A BMW Live dashboard professional S6U8A BMW gesture control S6WDA Personal hotspot S704A M Sports suspension S710A M leather steering wheel S715A M Aerodynamics package S719A Edition Sport S760A M high-gloss Shadowline S775A M Headliner anthracite S850A Additional tank filling, export S853A Language version English S880A English / on-board literature S8KBA Oil service interval - 24 months / 25,000 km S8R9A Refrigerant S8S2A Coding of alarm signal S8S3A Automatic lock when driving away S8SMA VIN, visible from outside S8TFA Active pedestrian protection S8TGA ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM S999A Order control HEA
    1 point
  47. Morning Ross I would start by checking that all injectors are OK, seated properly and fixed down at the correct torque. If there are no injector or glow plug issues then the valve train needs investigation could be a lifter sticking or a Vanos issue. Dave
    1 point
  48. Been a while, forgot to update sorry. Turned out to be the belt tensioner pulley at fault, bearing was goosed. Hope this helps some people.
    1 point
  49. Thanks for the feedback Dave, really helpful stuff. I bet your friends and family are pleased you are sorted when it comes to puncture repair kits to keep them on the road. I like the sound of a puncture plug kit & tyre weld for screws and suchlike issues to help stay moving. Sidewall rupture is a flatbed for now, but I'm definitely going with non RFT in 17 months for the next M40d which I really enjoy driving. Ironically, we were in Arundel, W.Sussex when I got the recent pot hole blow out, so know exactly what you mean, I could not believe the state of the roads in the south of England to be honest, it was like wacky races avoiding pot holes on any main roads. We live in sunny N. Yorkshire and don't suffer from quite so many holes in the roads. Thank you for the information, but interestingly, I have already logged a claim for vehicle damage (tyre) with W. Sussex CC when I got home, their website says it can take 24 weeks before they even look at it... I'll wait and plan for the fight. Cheers Jon
    1 point
  50. Hello Dave, I though to buy a used steering wheel but they are usually in quite bad shape, especially the leather. Mine is mint. And BMW made me change my mind with a new one.... I already cleaned and greased but, unfortunately, no result. I was thinking to restore the connection with the metal base by adding/soldering copper little strips over the old or just remove the old copper plated points (and see what is below🤔) and add (soldering) new ones. At the end of the story, they are not working anyhow......I cannot do big damage🤣🤣🤣🤣 Keep posted, thanks for helping Andrea
    1 point
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