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Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave

Morning Stu The fact you have a wiper issue would point me away from the Cluster initially My thoughts are Footwell Module it's in the left hand footwell (well it would be 😅) Run a scan it should show up any issues. The Footwell control module on the 4.6 caused all sorts of odd stuff radio that would randomly turn on/off odd light issues seat controls. BMW say you can't swap them it has to be new and set up by them (wrong of course) I changed mine for an upgraded unit second hand it took longer to remove the old unit and swap it than it did to re-program it cured everything and probably stuff I hadn't found 😅 Dave P.S I wont let the E70 on Whats App or Face Book just in case 🤣

I know that feeling Dave, same thing after rolling out from under my Z3 at the weekend and the realisation that I'm not 21 anymore 🙂

Superb news for older models of BMW, even up to the Z4 https://www.bmwgroup-classic.com/en/offers-and-services/bmw-classic-reproductions.html

Hi all, I hope you are all well! I thought I’d let others know about my positive experience I had with Precision drive near Southend airport. I was recommended by a friend, who had his E90 updated a while ago. I had messaged Chris at precision drive about getting my F36 updated & addition of CarPlay. He replied with the cost & answered any queries I had. Dropped off car & left it with him. I got a call after 1.5hrs to say the whole car had been updated but there was an issue whilst installing CarPlay (he doesn’t yet have dedicated broadband at his workshop, phone tethering wasn’t sufficient) He has kindly offered to come to my house & apply the CarPlay at a later date. It turns out that my cars never had any software updates applied since new! Instantly I noticed the shifts were smoother & engine was quieter. Should anyone else require their cars updating give Chris a message/call (search Precision Drive) I paid £120 for whole vehicle update, £60 to be paid at a later date for CarPlay activation.

Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave

Morning Paul Sorry Paul it's been a crazy end to the shooting season From my notes nothing I am afraid but from a BMW contact apparently the sequence is "Ignition on all lights show as part of the self check, Crank and start and they should go out apart from seat belt if it isnt plugged in" Dave

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum What a strange anomaly For years we had a place in Portugal and I kept a car there but have to say 10 years ago it was simple Bluetooth connection for calls. I guess have you talked to Apple to see if it is something they can help with? maybe clone your Spanish phone so at least you have your data Good Luck Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave

Best wishes and here is hoping you all have prosperous 2025

Took it out yesterday and then shopping last night 4x20 mile runs and the car didn’t miss a beat. Still a few little nigly bits to sort, but hopefully the limp mode issue is solved! got a long run next week when I go on holiday so we shall see if I end up coming home via the RAC or not… now to fill it with more petrol!

Out shooting Thursday got to keep my dogs busy 🤣🤣 Good luck Stu

According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave

As BMW themselves produced a 116i 2.0ltr version parts shouldn't be to hard to track down use realoem get a list and see if finacially it's viable There is always the old syaing by Carol Shelby when a guy asked him how fast a Shelby Cobra was, His answer, "speed costs money son how fast can you afford to go" Remember back in the 70's Brabham Racing were using BMW 1.5 ltr engines in their F1 cars two turbos (1 big and 1 very big) 900/1000hp in race trim 1200hp for qualifying. The engines were standard blocks selected customers ran them on the road to get heat cycles into the blocks. Customer engines were swapped and the blocks went to Brabham.

Morning Karl Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of one, not without actually opening the sealed unit and testing to see if it is a LED failure or something on the PCB Have you talked to guys like Cartronics or ECU testing as there are so many cars now with LED lights someone must be repairing them surely ? The alternative (did it with my E70) is a recycled one got mine from Quarry Motors not cheap but below 1/3rd of the price of new Dave

Hi Dave, the guy said they only use LUK or SACHS so we will see how it goes. Its not going in until Oct 6th so I will use it until then. I will let you know how it turns out. thanks Paneuro.

As an after thought just checked my rear sensor it had been dislodged and set back so was seeing th bumper edge as a hazard, Dohhh So check they are all sitting right Dave

Here you go Stu don't know if this helps or not You can see the Front sensors working the rear sensor is acting up after I jet washed it Dave P1000915.MOV

Normal 🤣 This is a BMW Forum 🤣 I will make a Video later today Dave

….. ah!,….. I wanted the De Cat model 😔😂😂😂

Hi Dave, thanks for the insight! Guess I might need to rethink my Bimmer plans if walking and cabs are quick and easy. Those museums you suggested sound awesome! I was also thinking about how to get to the Colosseum, I'll probably end up being one of those 'darned tourists' myself! 😂 I read that it might be possible to skip the lines and get tickets by hiring some local guides. I'll look into https://gowithguide.com/Italy/rome/guides if they book tickets in bulk ahead of time.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ice cream would be easier to clear up 🤣🤣 Got a fold up dog cage I could lend you as long as no one dobs us in to Child Welfare 🤣🤣🤣

Hi David Welcome to the Forum Very tasty looking car as the power plant is basically the same as the M4 what about exploring an exhaust swap ? I would think Centre box back would be pretty much the same. just how that could effect warranty I am not sure if all parts are OEM Just thinking out loud Dave

Hi Stu I think you could well be right had this with the 4.6 loss of power, stop restart all OK then randomly lose power New throttls body sorted it. Good Luck Dave

Yay we are back well done the Mods Dave

Morning Sammie Welcome to the Forum Timing Chain (BMW recommend betweeb 80 and 120k) is an engine out job so clutch and rear main seal at the same time I would guess between £1000 and £1500 depending on who does the work Hope this helps Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware the E34 range did not have any separate back up batteries just the main car battery. Dave

Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check

Hi Dave Many thanks for the quick response 🙂 Yes, I traced all the Pt No's listed as 65327164978......but all appear to be solid red without the mesh covering. The black mesh covering appears to be easily removed....... I may do this to tidy things up; but I would then have the standard fitting Pt No 65327164978. I was attempting to retain/replace, as the 'black' lens as a contrast to red paint work, which in my opinion looks more appealing than red on red 😝 I see there is a version of solid black lens which hopefully glows a clear red.......I may give it a go. Once again, many thanks for your reply. Paul

Morning John Welcome to the Forum You need a BMW capable Diagnostic reader most readers will only see the basic Engine management. Your fault could be Fuel Delivery, Fuel rail pressure, Fuel pump relay, Turbo Actuator the list of possible causes goes on Dave

Morning Steven As far as I am aware you need to change the complete assembly as I haven't heard or read of anyone servicing them. You could try companies like Cartronix or ECU Testing (Google should help find them) both have good Reputations As far as I know the butterfly is closed until energised, then open enough to allow idle settings Good Luck Dave

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook and settings in the iDrive/infotainment system, check the media for any videos that may help with settings If all else fails try your dealer as your car is under Warranty if it isn't something you have done they should fix it Good Luck Dave

Hi just thought I'd update my listing all my problems listed in this and in the pictures was due to an intermittent alternator regulator issue (over voltage) Cheers

Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum The 1 series you owned was it a diesel? I would at a guess it was a 118d or 120d, extended service intervals really caught many N47 engined BMW owners and BMW out. The engines that were getting oil changes seemed to fair much better The engine in the E46 is different N46 at the low-ish mileage 55k oil and filters would always be my priority to give the engine a better chance at a long life Lots of things effect ball joints and rubber bushes. Just helped a neighbour with a suspension rebuild he got a complete kit for £120 Lower wishbones track control arms and Anti roll bar links took around 3 hours with tea and biscuit breaks. Check the internet or your local motor factors for costs then use it as a negotiating point Good Luck with the purchase Dave

My money is on a drain George

Morning Dermot Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the section you need. You will find the Part Number for the OEM part. Then use that for your Internet search that way any items you find should fit. There are many out there Sachs, Bilstein, Monroe to name a few Good Hunting Dave

Hi again Dave. Peace at almost any price can often be a relatively life changing compromise !!

Morning Veigar Welcome to the Forum The box in your car should be 5 speed ZF A5S440Z it may be cheaper to service/repair the box than look for a replacement. When was the box last serviced? ZF advise service every 60 to 100k (kilometres) If you were thinking of an upgrade there is a lot of work including ECU matching Good Luck Dave

You are welcome Danny A BMW Dealer will not repair anything, they just change components at the Customers expense and no regard for cost I would use a BMW Vin Decoder site put the Vin number in and you should get the original build sheet Look at the list of Codes S676A is the basic Hi Fi system S688A is Harmon Kardon S6F1A is Bowers & Wilkins. Then you will know the starting point and will be able to make choices on how you move forward. BMW Designers are good at hiding components in places where they can get flooded, several models over the years have had Nav/Audio in the boot buried under the floor. Plus many of those models had a boot that could become a swimming pool if a seal was damaged or failed so moving your amp out of the danger zone makes sense. As you had the 40 amp fuses melted check the speakers as well as they may have been overloaded For service, help and knowledge there is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find more than one near you most are BMW trained they will have the equipment and Knowledge (one near me specialises in BMW/Porsche) yet is still less than half Dealer labour rates. One of those or an Audio Specialist would be on my list if I couldn't do the job myself. Good Luck Dave

Been a while, forgot to update sorry. Turned out to be the belt tensioner pulley at fault, bearing was goosed. Hope this helps some people.

Thanks for the update Rory hopefully your experience will be good. I spoke again with the Merc/Porsche specialist I know apparently the tags he has seen are both Apple and in use by Porsche owners Dave

I was an airline mechanic up until I retired 2 years ago. There isn't any carrier Under US FAA or EASA regulations that restricts the use of any airtag or similar device. Lufthansa was rumored to have tried, using the interference claim but quickly denied it when it's customers heard about it. Our shop actually put tags on specialized tools so the Tool Room could track them and since new generation tags can have a range of 90' to as much as 450' it help prevent tools from leaving the hanger or being left on the aircraft. The Avionics guys I worked with all seem to agree that for my purposes there shouldn't be any issues and just say to monitor the batteries in the key and tag. They will get you close enough to what ever they're attached to that if you can't se what your looking for you can tap your smartphone and the'll put out a tone like a ring. The ones made by TILE can be used in reverse if you have your FOB but can't find your phone, tap on them and the signal will have your phone ring. I ordered one Apple Airtag and One Tile Pro. I carry a battery for my FOB in my wallet so should they drain the battery I can just toss a new battery in and remove the tag if I decide it's an issue. It'll take awhile to decide but I'm gonna give em a try. !

I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave

I would start with the Antenna get the Part Number from the one in the car or www.realoem.com and find a replacement Changing it will take around Half an Hour reprograming your Keys about 5 to 10 mins Or if your a real Tinkerer you could take the Antenna out open it up and see if you can fix it Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum I would start with a careful back track of all work carried out a PITA I know but the only way to be certain each part is OK. Run fuel off after the filter through a Coffee filter paper that will show any metallic swarf if there is any (fingers crossed) Check the rail pressure sensor "O" ring I have seen one with a split that was causing similar issues to those you are getting I believe there is a Bleed sequence in ISTA (never had to use it myself) has that been followed? Still a diesel virgin myself so feeling my way here Dave

Hello Dave, I though to buy a used steering wheel but they are usually in quite bad shape, especially the leather. Mine is mint. And BMW made me change my mind with a new one.... I already cleaned and greased but, unfortunately, no result. I was thinking to restore the connection with the metal base by adding/soldering copper little strips over the old or just remove the old copper plated points (and see what is below🤔) and add (soldering) new ones. At the end of the story, they are not working anyhow......I cannot do big damage🤣🤣🤣🤣 Keep posted, thanks for helping Andrea

I go with Dodo or Zaino.