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2 points
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Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!2 points
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Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave2 points
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Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave2 points
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Morning Stu The fact you have a wiper issue would point me away from the Cluster initially My thoughts are Footwell Module it's in the left hand footwell (well it would be 😅) Run a scan it should show up any issues. The Footwell control module on the 4.6 caused all sorts of odd stuff radio that would randomly turn on/off odd light issues seat controls. BMW say you can't swap them it has to be new and set up by them (wrong of course) I changed mine for an upgraded unit second hand it took longer to remove the old unit and swap it than it did to re-program it cured everything and probably stuff I hadn't found 😅 Dave P.S I wont let the E70 on Whats App or Face Book just in case 🤣1 point
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I know that feeling Dave, same thing after rolling out from under my Z3 at the weekend and the realisation that I'm not 21 anymore 🙂1 point
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Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave1 point
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OK, so had the stethoscope test done and yes, water pump had gone. Not a bad life to be fair, 97K mls. New one installed and also had the belt changed as well. Onwards.......1 point
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Morning Paul Sorry Paul it's been a crazy end to the shooting season From my notes nothing I am afraid but from a BMW contact apparently the sequence is "Ignition on all lights show as part of the self check, Crank and start and they should go out apart from seat belt if it isnt plugged in" Dave1 point
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Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum What a strange anomaly For years we had a place in Portugal and I kept a car there but have to say 10 years ago it was simple Bluetooth connection for calls. I guess have you talked to Apple to see if it is something they can help with? maybe clone your Spanish phone so at least you have your data Good Luck Dave1 point
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Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave1 point
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Many thanks once again Greydog Dave . I haven't yet contacted my auto electrician friend but when I do I'm sure he will find your information useful and interesting. He will take a while to visit me because of ill health but when he does I will contact you. Many thanks and a happy new year.1 point
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Happy new year sir! thank you for your wisdom and knowledge throughout the year. enjoy a beer or two1 point
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Took it out yesterday and then shopping last night 4x20 mile runs and the car didn’t miss a beat. Still a few little nigly bits to sort, but hopefully the limp mode issue is solved! got a long run next week when I go on holiday so we shall see if I end up coming home via the RAC or not… now to fill it with more petrol!1 point
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Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave1 point
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According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave1 point
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As BMW themselves produced a 116i 2.0ltr version parts shouldn't be to hard to track down use realoem get a list and see if finacially it's viable There is always the old syaing by Carol Shelby when a guy asked him how fast a Shelby Cobra was, His answer, "speed costs money son how fast can you afford to go" Remember back in the 70's Brabham Racing were using BMW 1.5 ltr engines in their F1 cars two turbos (1 big and 1 very big) 900/1000hp in race trim 1200hp for qualifying. The engines were standard blocks selected customers ran them on the road to get heat cycles into the blocks. Customer engines were swapped and the blocks went to Brabham.1 point
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Morning Karl Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of one, not without actually opening the sealed unit and testing to see if it is a LED failure or something on the PCB Have you talked to guys like Cartronics or ECU testing as there are so many cars now with LED lights someone must be repairing them surely ? The alternative (did it with my E70) is a recycled one got mine from Quarry Motors not cheap but below 1/3rd of the price of new Dave1 point
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As an after thought just checked my rear sensor it had been dislodged and set back so was seeing th bumper edge as a hazard, Dohhh So check they are all sitting right Dave1 point
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Here you go Stu don't know if this helps or not You can see the Front sensors working the rear sensor is acting up after I jet washed it Dave P1000915.MOV1 point
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Normal 🤣 This is a BMW Forum 🤣 I will make a Video later today Dave1 point
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Yeah, the ice cream was definitely easier to clean up than that. But gotta love the smile on the little one 😂1 point
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🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ice cream would be easier to clear up 🤣🤣 Got a fold up dog cage I could lend you as long as no one dobs us in to Child Welfare 🤣🤣🤣1 point
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Hi David Welcome to the Forum Very tasty looking car as the power plant is basically the same as the M4 what about exploring an exhaust swap ? I would think Centre box back would be pretty much the same. just how that could effect warranty I am not sure if all parts are OEM Just thinking out loud Dave1 point
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God afternoon David and welcome to the forum. very nice car and a good colour choice! it’s been a while since I modded exhausts but I’m sure power flow or similar can give you what you need1 point
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Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box (one car at a time) then check the wheels section. Check the wheel szes for both cars and the wheel Offset so you know they clear Brake Calipers The only other thing is check the spigot ring measure ment on both wheels Hope this Helps Dave1 point
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Morning Sammie Welcome to the Forum Timing Chain (BMW recommend betweeb 80 and 120k) is an engine out job so clutch and rear main seal at the same time I would guess between £1000 and £1500 depending on who does the work Hope this helps Dave1 point
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Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware the E34 range did not have any separate back up batteries just the main car battery. Dave1 point
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Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check1 point
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Hi Dave Many thanks for the quick response 🙂 Yes, I traced all the Pt No's listed as 65327164978......but all appear to be solid red without the mesh covering. The black mesh covering appears to be easily removed....... I may do this to tidy things up; but I would then have the standard fitting Pt No 65327164978. I was attempting to retain/replace, as the 'black' lens as a contrast to red paint work, which in my opinion looks more appealing than red on red 😝 I see there is a version of solid black lens which hopefully glows a clear red.......I may give it a go. Once again, many thanks for your reply. Paul1 point
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Morning John Welcome to the Forum You need a BMW capable Diagnostic reader most readers will only see the basic Engine management. Your fault could be Fuel Delivery, Fuel rail pressure, Fuel pump relay, Turbo Actuator the list of possible causes goes on Dave1 point
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Morning Steven As far as I am aware you need to change the complete assembly as I haven't heard or read of anyone servicing them. You could try companies like Cartronix or ECU Testing (Google should help find them) both have good Reputations As far as I know the butterfly is closed until energised, then open enough to allow idle settings Good Luck Dave1 point
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Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook and settings in the iDrive/infotainment system, check the media for any videos that may help with settings If all else fails try your dealer as your car is under Warranty if it isn't something you have done they should fix it Good Luck Dave1 point
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Morning Stu Mole grips on the cable end has always worked for me Just asked an ex BMW Tech he says same part just the lever and mount are handed Dave1 point
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Hi just thought I'd update my listing all my problems listed in this and in the pictures was due to an intermittent alternator regulator issue (over voltage) Cheers1 point
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Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum As you have had a few "practice" models the E53 will be a doddle 😂🤣 All E53's feel heavy on the steering my wife won't drive the X5's unless it is essential (can be a bonus) Enjoy your new hobby Dave1 point
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history and good old gut feeling. Condition and loads of history with money no object kind of ownership. What i do with cars with expensive parts is i build up a car slush fund, over time you can dip in to the slush fund to maintain it. Build up the car slush fund to a level that if anything bad happens u can cover a big chunk of it. Like a personal warranty where the money is in your bank and not a warranty / dealers bank account.1 point
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Morning Dermot Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the section you need. You will find the Part Number for the OEM part. Then use that for your Internet search that way any items you find should fit. There are many out there Sachs, Bilstein, Monroe to name a few Good Hunting Dave1 point
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Morning Veigar Welcome to the Forum The box in your car should be 5 speed ZF A5S440Z it may be cheaper to service/repair the box than look for a replacement. When was the box last serviced? ZF advise service every 60 to 100k (kilometres) If you were thinking of an upgrade there is a lot of work including ECU matching Good Luck Dave1 point
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Hi, Yes. The BMW decoder worked well. I do indeed have a G21. I'm off to Dorset soon, so really looking forward to giving it a good run. Full spec below: S90A 90 AH AGM battery L812A Great Britain/Ireland version P337A M Sports package S1AGA Larger-capacity fuel tank S1CBA CO2-scope S1PDA 18'' M light-alloy wheels double spoke 790 M bicolor with tires of different makes and types and emergency running properties S230A EU-specific additional contents S248A Steering-wheel heating S258A Tires with emergency running properties S2PAA Locking wheel bolts S2TBA Steptronic sport transmission S2VBA Tire Pressure Monitor S2VLA Variable sport steering S302A Alarm system S322A Comfort Access S3KAA Acoustic glass S3MCA M roof rack high-gloss Shadowline S418A Luggage-compartment package S428A Warning triangle S430A Interior and exterior mirror package S431A Interior rear-view mirror with automatic anti-dazzle function S481A Sports seats for driver and front passenger S493A Storage compartment package S494A Seat heating for driver and front passenger S4KLA Interior trims Aluminum 'Mesh Effect' S4URA Ambient light S534A Automatic climate control S544A Cruise control with braking function S5A1A LED fog lights S5A4A LED headlight with extended equipment specification S5AQA Active Guard Plus S5DAA Front passenger's airbag deactivation S5DCA Rear-seat headrests, folding S5DNA Parking assistant Plus S610A BMW Head-Up Display S654A DAB tuner S688A Harman Kardon Surround Sound system S6AEA TeleServices S6AFA Statutory emergency request S6AKA/S6C4A ConnectedDrive services S6DRA BMW Drive Recorder S6NWA Telephony with wireless charging S6U3A BMW Live dashboard professional S6U8A BMW gesture control S6WDA Personal hotspot S704A M Sports suspension S710A M leather steering wheel S715A M Aerodynamics package S719A Edition Sport S760A M high-gloss Shadowline S775A M Headliner anthracite S850A Additional tank filling, export S853A Language version English S880A English / on-board literature S8KBA Oil service interval - 24 months / 25,000 km S8R9A Refrigerant S8S2A Coding of alarm signal S8S3A Automatic lock when driving away S8SMA VIN, visible from outside S8TFA Active pedestrian protection S8TGA ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM S999A Order control HEA1 point
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Top Man thanks for the close out to the post1 point
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You are welcome Danny A BMW Dealer will not repair anything, they just change components at the Customers expense and no regard for cost I would use a BMW Vin Decoder site put the Vin number in and you should get the original build sheet Look at the list of Codes S676A is the basic Hi Fi system S688A is Harmon Kardon S6F1A is Bowers & Wilkins. Then you will know the starting point and will be able to make choices on how you move forward. BMW Designers are good at hiding components in places where they can get flooded, several models over the years have had Nav/Audio in the boot buried under the floor. Plus many of those models had a boot that could become a swimming pool if a seal was damaged or failed so moving your amp out of the danger zone makes sense. As you had the 40 amp fuses melted check the speakers as well as they may have been overloaded For service, help and knowledge there is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find more than one near you most are BMW trained they will have the equipment and Knowledge (one near me specialises in BMW/Porsche) yet is still less than half Dealer labour rates. One of those or an Audio Specialist would be on my list if I couldn't do the job myself. Good Luck Dave1 point
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Morning Ross I would start by checking that all injectors are OK, seated properly and fixed down at the correct torque. If there are no injector or glow plug issues then the valve train needs investigation could be a lifter sticking or a Vanos issue. Dave1 point
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I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave1 point
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I would start with the Antenna get the Part Number from the one in the car or www.realoem.com and find a replacement Changing it will take around Half an Hour reprograming your Keys about 5 to 10 mins Or if your a real Tinkerer you could take the Antenna out open it up and see if you can fix it Dave1 point
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Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum I would start with a careful back track of all work carried out a PITA I know but the only way to be certain each part is OK. Run fuel off after the filter through a Coffee filter paper that will show any metallic swarf if there is any (fingers crossed) Check the rail pressure sensor "O" ring I have seen one with a split that was causing similar issues to those you are getting I believe there is a Bleed sequence in ISTA (never had to use it myself) has that been followed? Still a diesel virgin myself so feeling my way here Dave1 point
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You will be our "Go To Man" to interpret BMW speak into English 🤣 I would be tempted to just source the lot hoses clips everything then you will know everything is right. Don't forget BMW have a Classic Section and are often helpful on prices for classics My old Boss used to run V8 SD1's in the late 70's early 80's Dave1 point
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