JaamesE36

Bit of an update on this. Messaged to get the remapped ecu to work. Car is completely different. Feels so much more lively now! Whilst car was running unplugged TPS and plugged back in and it idle has it should. Had every fault code under the sun. Cleared codes and they come straight back. Took it for a spin and all the codes disappeared. Guessing it was learning the sensors etc. Have a couple of codes still one of them being MAF which I didn’t have before but it drives so much better. Will try unplugging the maf or cleaning it and see how it goes but was drifting in 2nd gear in the dry no problem at all which for the first time ever in this car was a huge improvement

But also online I’ve found the same ecu but for a 523i? Does that mean I have a 5 series engine?

This is the ECU I have on my car. Which as far as I can find online is a 328 ecu.

The wiring that’s missing is for the relay, for the o2 heater wiring and relay. There’s usually 3 white relays in the fuse box right infront of the DME. I have 2 which is why I have the o2 heater circuit fault. No wiring with no relay means no heaters. In terms of the ecu, do you know the part numbers for the programmed or chippable ecu? The remapped ecu started my car but when the car was revved it held the revs to wherever the throttle was released until the car was turned off and back on again.

The car has a 3.15 diff already and a 328 twin stainless exhaust. No cat which goes to a 36 m3 Backbox. I shall check the cam sensor and see what the part number is. I know it’s a single Vanos engine not sure if that makes a difference but I will check. I’m new to BMW. Much like yourself I have a 106 GTi which I’ve had for 8 years as a track/race car and I know those inside out upside down and an astra VXR as a daily around the 300bhp mark. These BMW’s are new to me. I replaced the cracked manifold on the weekend and I think the car feels better. May be placebo of course i also noticed when when I took the manifold off, the first manifold (towRds front of car) has a bolt which I can imagine where the first o2 sensor goes maybe? There’s an o2 sensor in lower parts of each manifold but on one of the header branches there is a blank in place?

How am I able to tell the difference between the 2 I don’t have any faults for cam or crank sensor. Only faults I had was o2 sensor heater but the wiring and relay was missing can’t find it anywhere. So that explains that. Other code I had was for MAF. Fitted a new working maf infact fitted a few known workers and it made the car as slow as a 1.0 micra

That’s what I’m starting to think. Is my engine possibly from an e39 or something like that. It’s defo the older variety as it’s single Vanos. It’s the ecu code that’s worrying me every e36 I come across tends to be 0322 and not 032 D13. Pain buying cars like this sometimes and not knowing the history especially when the previous owner bought the car already done

I did have a look on Real oem but couldn’t make sence of any of the ecu part numbers. There was so many different types but they was like 12345678 opposed to the codes I’m cross referencing

Even though it’s had an engine conversion, as surely with the chassis number it will bring up the original ecu from the 316?

One thing I did notice on the ecu where it says 5wk9 0322 mine was 5wk9 032 d13 so it was missing a digit and d13 on the end. Is this the reason?

I haven’t checked real oem but I will do. What makes life harder both cars have had engine conversion, mine was originally 316 his was originally 320. Both have 323 engines though. It was strange it held the revs and wouldn’t come back down again. Just sat at wherever the pedal was released and held it there

Hi guys. I mate of mine has a E36 323 Touring (M Reg) I have a 323 Saloon 1997 (P Reg) he has now fitted a 2.8 into the car and given me his remapped ecu. when I plugged it into my car (battery disconnected first etc) the car didn’t want to idle properly (idle was bouncing up and down) and when the car was revved it would then hold the revs when the throttle was removed. Is there any particular reason for this? Was there different ecu fitted to these cars? Not sure if there needs to be a reset so it all runs correctly or not

No codes for either, if fuel pressure was an issue wouldn’t I be having problems at the top of the Rev range too? Once’s it into Vanos it goes like a dream.

O2 sensors are both there and working. It’s the preheater that’s not working, I’ve been told the relay on some looms is actually in the DME box so will check there. Car idles perfectly fine. I have noticed the exhaust manifold closest to the fire wall has a small crack in it too. That’s not helping either.

Done a Compression test. All cylinders 175psi or above across the board. That rules that out. Tried to sort out the o2 sensor heater fault I have and looked for relay #3 which controls the o2 sensor heater, there isn’t one. It’s missing completely, the plug the wiring the lot. Can’t see anything for it. Would this cause the car to be down on power?

Okay mate Thankyou, the guy was only selling due to funding his own business, all his toys were up for sale. Guy seemed genuine but then don’t they all? I will check everything out, Thankyou for the said link. Just very odd how it’s so down on power

Snap On Solus machine was what it was plugged in with. I didn’t do any of the work on the car, I bought it exactly as it was. With the DME how would I know it’s the correct one for the car? Everything has been done to high standard, braided and solid lines from the master cylinder all replaced. Cage welded in. Custom CNC Cut arms. All polybushed etc seems no corners have been cut with the car so can’t jmagine something like fuel pump or DME being out of the 1.6 4 pot what the car original started life as

Thanks for that. I have no fault codes when scanned. The car starts and idles perfectly fine, there is overrun from the exhaust but it’s more crackle than anything but that’s probably because it’s a full straight through system with an e36 m3 backbox. The car is also slow. I had a Fiat punto making me look silly last night lol.

To be honest mate I wouldn’t know. I’m going to unplug the Vanos solenoid a bit later. I bought the car with all the work already done. I’m not too sure what the DME is or what it looks like. I’m still very very new with bmw

strange as my car seems very quiet on idle. Like it should albeit a slight exhaust leak as the rubber book is missing from the gearatick and you stick it exhaust fumes after driving it. Which I will address this eeekend. But it does seem really quiet on idle

When you say the noise will let me know. What noise exactly am I listening for? Hot or cold?

I haven’t mate no, hence why coming on here for ideas like that haha. It’s single Vanos mate

Hi guys. I’ve got a BMW E36 Drift car with a 323 engine. I haven’t had the car long at all but it’s very down on power, almost like setting away in 2nd gear from standstill or trying to come out of a corner in the incorrect gear, even to the point it really needs a beating on the clutch to slide, even In the wet it struggles in 2nd gear and requires a lot of clutch kicks to keep going. the car is virtually dead until the Vanos system kicks in. The cars and idles etc perfectly fine, the car is much more lively when cold and certainly more flat and slow when warmed up and after drifting it’s very very flat and unresponsive. It seems to have no power until around 3.5/4K rpm. Arguements sake to initiate a drift you almost need to be st the Rev limiter before dropping the clutch. A little clutch kick won’t do anything, or if coming in on the hydro it again needs a big boot full of clutch to get the wheels spinning again. Ive read about work Vanos seals but people complain about poor idle and starting however I have no issues with that. Is there a test for the Vanos seals or is it a case of just replace them and see if it’s any better?

Went and got the battery tested. Replacement advised. The CCA is down under half so that’s my issue I believe. Thanks again. Posting a new thread on another issue. Here we go again!

What even on a 97’ E36? I don’t think the car has an immobiliser let alone a battery needing coding, it’s not even OBD2 haha. Battery has been relocated behind passenger seat. Everything cut out from the inside etc apart from a rollcage and dash there’s nothing to it. Wouldn’t think a battery would need coding in a 22 year old car