X5smw

Wow, I’m surprised as failed injector would stop a running engine. Any misfires or symptoms prior? well done with the live data diagnostic. can everyone have a whip round? Anyone got a number for bob geldof? Shall we do a benefit gig? I’ll bring the drums! 😂

Sorted! Same issue as mine then, the chip failed in the key. Have you programmed the key to operate the central locking? as I said, they are two separate issues. So you need to program the new key to the central locking. Easy job.

Hi Donny. There should be a red + under the hood. On the wheelarch side fender will be a large nut. This is the - where the black lead goes. then use a charger so another battery to put power into the car and open the boot/tailgate that way.

Well…. It begins! The dremel was useless and just kept snapping blades, so I went for the next option…. 2000 watt heat gun…. 4 hours later I have a melted set of lights and some angel eyes in position. I managed to pull the wire out of one of the halos so I’ll get the soldering kit out 🙄 once all the halos are in and working, I’ll fit the new lenses and mould the mos sharpen bits back again… hopefully!

3m squares will seal it! does the car have a sensor on the glass?

Hi, open the bonnet and use the charging points in there. Put the charger on and the boot should open using the fob. also, I have seen cars getting enough power from connecting an external battery/ car to the cigarette lighter, if you have one?

Morning ! firstly, check the battery. amazing what a dead cell or discharging battery will do. the fact that they sometimes go away while driving could be that the battery gets enough charge from the alternator that journey, but loses charge next time you fire it up.

I had an issue similar, the remote locking and the immobiliser are two separate issues. the dead battery in the fob won’t affect the immobiliser which is read by a benign chip in the key by the ring on the ignition barrel. the lights on the dash should illuminate when the key is turned regardless of the engine starting. if it doesn’t turn the dash on, I would look toward the sensor on the barrel. do the interior lights and seats move when you get in? Is there power through the car? when you get the car plugged into a reader, put the live data feed on and check the ews/ dme module. when the key is inserted into the barrel, the chip should be read and the key number displayed, I think the check boxes turn green too, then the car will start. If you are getting no green lights on the programme or key numbers come up, then it’s either the chip in the fob or the chip reader on the ignition barrel. I found this out the hard way after replacing everything including the ews and dme modules, locks, barrels and sensors…. Turned out to be a chip not being recognised, new key, new chip, programmed up and presto! hope this points you in the right direction

Karl… if the alternator fails, your car will run for about 10 miles before dying…. I can assure you this has happened to me!

Hi … I second @Greydog sounds like a dead battery cell. it’s amazing what a small amount of under current on the battery does to the brains of the car. I got a new battery from euro car parts on offer for £80. my Halfords one was a yuasa one I believe and was £114. It lasted around 2 years, before I started to notice random faults appearing. The garage tested the battery and said it was ok, just needed a good run out, but I took it out and it discharged by itself. Stu.

Well…. Took the car on a run out to holiday and back without any fault, so looks like mission accomplished on the failsafe issue. Thank you to @Greydog for valuable insights … now to tackle the next one!

Happy new year sir! thank you for your wisdom and knowledge throughout the year. enjoy a beer or two

Took it out yesterday and then shopping last night 4x20 mile runs and the car didn’t miss a beat. Still a few little nigly bits to sort, but hopefully the limp mode issue is solved! got a long run next week when I go on holiday so we shall see if I end up coming home via the RAC or not… now to fill it with more petrol!

Right! Quick update…. replaced the throttle body with a brand new one and took all the pipes and diss valve off for a thorough clean. I found some hairline cracks in the folds of the air intake boot of the idle valve intake pipe, coverered it with order tape then electrical waterproof tape as I couldn’t get another one today. started the car and it was banging and popping and wouldn’t run… then I remembered to plug the throttle body back in! reset all modules and adaptions and it calmed down. took it for a 20 mile run at pace and it’s off like a whippet again. thank you to @Greydog as usual for the advice. hopefully this has sorted the issue and on to the next one!

Happy Christmas to everyone. Thank you to all that participated and helped me along the way. have a blessed festive time, a good rest, and no calls to the RAC!