X5smw

The fuel pump is electric and is under the rear seat. when you turn the key you should hear it prime and spin. These usually fail as they are lubricated by the fuel in the tank. When the fuel gets low, the pumps wear.... stupid invention!

Update. got a new battery and changed it. .... reset everything and left the car to charge. reset the throttle and bang! seems to have solved it. BUY THE SCANNING SOFTWARE!! Saved me a fortune. ... also while hunting for the battery, I found a genuine 6cd changer in the boot if anyone wants one? Lol

Just had chance to plug the computer in. looking at the readings, the battery is at 11.5v and goes up to 13.5 when the car is running. I clear the faults and the fault returns straight away. What do you guys reckon?

... it nearly wiped my wife and child out! we were just coming back from our house (we have just moved) and suddenly the car misfires and stops. Car is in gear so quick deceleration and a lorry nearly smashed it up the #####. I was in my van in front and talking to my wife. We managed to limp it to the next junction and the engine is irratic idling and I turned it off, obc states oil level and abs inactive. Starts it up, all clear. Drives it 10 miles to new house and as I get into the village, it dies again. Now stating dsc inactive. I don’t have the time to plug the laptop in tonight but what are your thoughts?? battery issue? Sensor issue? the car hasn’t been used for a few days but never had an issue before. it has been travelling 40 miles on motorway and dual carriageway for the last week and starts ok, so I wouldn’t have said battery... but I know they can have a bit of a temper.... anyway, all home safe now. Time for a cuppa and a calm down!

There should be a clip that attaches the door handle to the inner lock catch. Take the passenger door card off and compare them. I can’t remember off the to of my head as I have done many cars and models, but it should be easy to spot what’s broken and easy to replace.

Nice one jay! well done and sorry for making you try every other sensor! 😂

Hi, welcome to the forum. you can fit a touch screen system to the car but can you post a picture of the centre console and stereo at the minute as there are two options. also, is it automatic or manual. depending on the model of centre console, you can get a double din screen or a fold out single din Stereo with adapter plate. you may lose some functions on the obc but the replacement stereo will have all the options you need.

did it do this before the timing chain was replaced? if not, I would look at the cam sensor and make sure the timing is correct. also with checking the fuel pump. what car and engine is it??

Cam sensors can be found on the pulleys. I had an issue with one. the sensor is located on the large pulley at the base of the engine. The rubber anti vibration art had perished and I could pull the pulley forward and backward on its shaft. try all the pulleys by hand. It will be obvious if one has failed. As greydog says, check the earth mounting on the engine and the connectors on the loom. This might seem innocuous but plays an important part.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1496092 have a read of this. swap the relays And see what happens. there is a tutorial on youtube. hard to get to but easy to swap.

Also, unplug the air mass sensor and try starting it. I have known these go faulty and choke the engine. That could explain the power loss at 3000 rpm too.

Right, so you have fuel and cranking. So the issue must be spark. you say the dme is showing an issue. has the immobiliser been activated? can you lock and unlock the door with the key fob?

Have you tested the fuel pump? Mine just stopped for no reason. turn the key to position 1 and you should hear it start to spin. It is located under the rear seat.

I had an issue on an e36 with an m43 engine like this. turns out it was the cam sensor (knock sensor) which is located on the drive belt pulley. Under load, the pulley it is on moved forward and. Stopped the sensor reading every couple of turns which caused a misfire. Try pulling and pushing all the pulleys on the belt at the front of the engine to make sure they are all right and not perished. it was a right pain to diagnose worth a go. stu

If the stereo wanted to start up every time it was powered then the red and yellow power wires were wrong in the loom. An adaptor kit is sometimes needed, which any good dealer should have spotted. the warning noises from the car should not come from the stereo if I’m not mistaken.

If it is only one door, as I read it now... you will have to take the interior off to get to the lock mechanisms. I think they had a white plastic link which were the weak point

Stupid question, but do the doors unlock with the remote? also, where did the car come from? do you have it’s history. sounds an odd question but some of the 7lm cars were used as diplomat cars and MOD cars so door handle function on the rear may have been disabled. check the child locks on the door frame and see if this makes the inner levers operate

Pulling to the right and brake light could be a sign of handbrake stuck on? can you jack the car up and turn the wheels easily? not sure what effect this would have by changing the stalks though.

Morning John. welcome to the forum.

Have you tried changing the battery? if it looses amps, only for a second, it could bring up the light. This could also explain why it comes on less on a long run. worth buying a battery from the scrap yard to test. check that the alternator is giving out the correct voltage and battery is holding charge.

Hi Dave, do you have any recommendations for the led headlights? Do I need to swap 2 or 4? also, I was thinking of wiring my halos up and run them as daylights. I can code them but no option to use the sidelights, only headlights. Cheers!

Bizarre! sounds like it’s exhaust related then... make sure all the bolts are tight. Are the exhaust joints rubbing when the engine is running? Could it need exhaust paste? heatsheild could be rattling but it doesn’t make that noise, it would be much louder if it’s loose. As you held the back box and the noise stopped, I would look at exhaust mounts and all clams and joins of the system right through to the manifold.

10 minutes??? my e46 took me about 4 hours. It had all sorts of torx head screws and the like. I lost more knuckles than patience....

The air con pulley has a kind of slip bearing on it which would make this noise if the air con is off. Turn the air con on and see if the noise stops when the clutch on the pump engages. it definitely sounds like something attached to the belts rather than the engine itself. I had an old e36 4pot which had the pulley with the knock sensor on it. That bearing failed and allowed the pulley to move forward and back. Try pulling each pulley away from the engine and if one moves, it is a good place to start

That’s A metallic sound. Does it change on revs? firstly check oil levels on the engine. I would think the noise is a bearing from a pulley. Most likely the alternator or air con pump.