X5smw

Wow…. They do look small! can you check the tyre size. The last number will be the wheel size 16 or 17. jack the car up and check the spring condition. It does seem a little low, but it could be that the wheels look small, giving it a lowered look. im going out on a limb here and saying the spring could be shot? Does it make any clunking noises?

LOL… love the editing when I type in the French marque!

Hi all… not sure if this has been done, but I’m bored… list your car history below… I’ll start. peugeot 309, Peugeot 205 gti 1.6, bmw e36 316,bmw e36 m3,bmw e34 520, bmw e34 525, bmw e34 518, french poo Laguna 2l, ford streetKa, bmw e90 320, bmw e46 316, bmw 3.0 e53 X5, Peugeot 307cc…. company cars…. ford escort van, golf tdi, golf gti, Hyundai accent, Hyundai lantra, rover 220, rover 620, Skoda Octavia, Skoda vrs, Audi TT, ford transit van, seat Leon, Vauxhall Astra, hyundai Tucson, Vauxhall combo, Audi A3. I think that’s it as well as our 2 motorhomes and a yamaha 125 motorbike. everybody…… GO!

What is going on with auto correct on here? Lol

You can buy softer springs for the car no problem, but it may be worth looking at the wheels. What size tyres are you running? mot may be worth selling your wheels and getting a smaller set (maybe an inch or 2 smaller) so your tyres have a large side profile, this will give more movement in the tyres and lead to a softer ride without altering the springs something like a ***/40/19 will have the same diameter as a ***/50/17 but will have a smaller wheel, giving it a larger flex area. hipe it makes sense.

Yeah, they are not currently connected to anything and if you have no intention of using them, tuck them away and hide them. I would check to see if there is a permanent positive feed on one of the cables first though.

The pic showing the armrest has the snap in adaptor missing.

If it’s in the centre armrest area it could be the telephone? Some cars still have the harnesses in 2008 models.

Have you tried quarry motors at Sheffield? I’m sure they do a fitting service too?

Have you tried the main dealership? also, try quarry motors in Sheffield.

Hi Chris, welcome to the forum. I always fancied a Z4 but wife and kids made me have 4 doors.

Buy pasoft….. it’s about £40 ish. It’s easy to use and has solved all sorts of issues in lots of BMWs for me. …. I think I’m on number 10 top of my head… it sounds like you maybe just need to re sync the ews and dme. I would expect a technician to do this on the initial diagnosis

Do you not turn it and unlock? I’m sure mine did?

Also, the battery might be ok but the alternator might not be charging it effectively… charge the battery fully and try re syncing. Then, if it starts. Check the running voltages and state of the battery. pAsoft can tell you this too. inpa will do everything too.

Morning ! I used PASoft 1.4.0 to read the faults and diagnose all the issues. If you can run a live dianosis, when you insert the key into the ignition and turn one click, you should see the ews read the transponder in the key and go green, showing the code is a match. My key fob transponder failed and stopped the car starting. the ews has a rolling code that changes every time the car is turned off. Can you try with another key? with pasoft, you can reset and re sync the dme and ews units to correct some issues.

As it’s an automatic, am I right in thinking the gear selector has a sensor that won’t start the engine if it thinks it’s in drive? could be a faulty sensor?

Love it! welcome to the forum. stu.

I had the same issue. the chip in the key failed on mine which stopped the car recognising the correct key to turn off the immobiliser. I ended up swapping the ews unit, the dme unit, all locks and ignition sensor before realising. do you have another key? Does it do it with both keys? I found the issue using pasoft 1.4.0 diagnostics tool on the laptop. mid you go to live view, put the key near the ignition and the system should read the key… sometimes mine would fail to read and cause the issue. I got a second key cut and programmed it. No issues since!

That’s my thought, that it’s jumped the splines. Can you remove the rear wipe arm, not just the blade, and run it to see if the noise disappears?

Can you do a video showing the whole rear window looking from the back of the car. I would guess that the new wiper is the same size as the old one ? can you put the wiper back on the window and see if it clears the spoiler near the brake light. I’m guessing the wiper arm has moved on its mount and now hits too far left, which would cause a bang and not sweep as far to the right.

I had the crank sensor pulley issue on an e36. Sounds like the same issues. as greydog also said, the air flow sensor can also cause the juddering, but usually has an irrational idle with it.

Can you try a different key? My key lost its transponder and the car just cranked. I ended up changing the dme unit and buying new keys and barrels and coding them etc.

Sorry, but no is the answer. have you tried quarry motors in Sheffield?

Check for a bent track rod on the front left. Also broken spring? swap the front tyres and see if there’s is any difference. Then do the same with the rears. Did you get the tracking checked and 4 wheels aligned?

Good evening and welcome to the e53 club! I have a fairly rare 3.0 petrol version with manual 5 speed box, which makes for fun acceleration but 70mph needs 3.5k revs…. Love it nearly as much as it loves fuel. many issues, come and shout. Greydog is very, very knowledgeable and between us all, we can usually answer questions.