pdhart

It got better once the TC was calibrated. However as the current tyres are not BMW star rated I’m changing them to Pirelli P zero’s this week. There was a couple of stored TC over temp errors so changing them just to be safe.

OK, so I thought I'd give a final update on this - IT'S FIXED. With nothing to lose I decided to try and sand down the transfer case and see if I can get to the numbers under the corrosion. My thinking was I've nothing to lose, as if I couldn't get the number I was most likely looking at £1000's for a new one. So with some light sanding with wet and dry I started to see numbers. There weren't very clear looking straight on, but with the light shining from below, the number was clearly visible. 184 was the number I needed. With that I took it back to my local, very helpful, BMW tech and he was able to pair the new actuator to the transfer case, clear all the faults and recalibrate. Now it's silky smooth and seems better than it was before the flood (it did have a bit of low speed shudder on hard turns before). I did also change the transfer case oil. I hope this helps anyone else with similar issues and a ATC450 TC. Paul.

So a further update. I found the number on the transfer case - it was next to the ATC 450 name on the case, but you wouldn't have known that by looking at the picture above. It's not until I started to clean it up that I could see anything. I cannot make out any numbers from this due to the corrosion of the case. It's madness that BMW do it in this way, if this number is so important to allow you to change the servo actuator. Anyway, I spoke to the local BMW dealer and they are not sure if they can do it or not. They will charge me £222 to investigate the issue, and then let me know the cost to do the work to fix it - i.e. pair the module to the transfer case. If they need this number, and there is no other way to do it, then I'm guessing that the only other option is a new transfer case as well. I'm pretty annoyed that I have a perfectly good transfer case and I've bought the replacement control module, only to find that there is no way to make them work together. There really is no need to make it this hard. I did also try and clean up the old module to see if I could talk to that and maybe get the code, but it's completely dead, and the original faults all come back if I put this module back on. So if you have similar problems, make sure you can read these numbers before you start buying bits to fix the problem. More once I have it from the main dealer. Paul.

Thanks Dave. I've just got myself a copy of ISTA. Have to admit I'm a bit scared of trying it given the various warning found online about bricking your car. I've only installed the diagnostic part, Rhiengold I think it is, not ISTA P, for now. Getting underneath it again on Wednesday night to see if I can find any numbers on the case. Paul.

Thanks Dave, it's got ATC 450 stamped on the transfer case. He tried two tools, Autologic Drive Pro and an older Autologic unit. Both said there was no option to just code the unit and it needed to be done as a repair, and then asked for the 3 or 4 digit code as above - that screen shot was from the older autologic. Paul.

OK, posting for others to know the pain. So the guy with the appropriate coding tablet couldn't code it. It needs to be a repair in the software, not just coding, according to that. For that I need to find a 3 or 4 digit number near the part number on the transfer case/gearbox. Then that can be used to tell the car it's been changed and I guess tell the electronics about the transfer case/gearbox. Anyone know anything about doing this, or where I can find this magical number? Is it on the gearbox or the transfer case? Transfer case is ATC 450. If I can't find it, it's going to the dealer for an airbag recall on Monday, and they will 'investigate' the issue for £222. No clue on how much it will cost to code it until that investigation is done. Note to self - stay away from water. Paul.

So the new module appeared to have fixed all of the faults, but I’m not out of the woods quite yet. It looks like it needs coding to the car before it will actually engage the 4 wheel drive. Hopefully got someone who can do that for me on Monday.

Some good news (I think). I've found this full of water, so hopefully that's the problem. I've got the ATC 450 transfer case, so it doesn't have the worm gear problem. I've managed to find the exact unit secondhand on ebay, from a breaker, so hopefully that will fix it. This unit should be waterproof, but clearly time has not been kind to it, and the seals aren't as good as they should be. The puddles around it are what came out when I opened it.

Thanks Dave, Any advice on how to test if the motor is good or bad? Are there any other electronics in or on the transfer case, or is it just the servo motor that generates the comms error? I did try and take it off yesterday evening but it appears you need to take off the supporting bracket. I got all of those bolts out (and the one that goes through the transfer case), but it still didn't want to budge. There appears to be a rubber mount that goes between the support and the transfer case, which doesn't come off easily. Thanks again.

Hi All, I'm hoping someone can help. My wife took the X5 for the day, as we'd had a lot of rain, and there is a bit of a flood near our village. It was about 12" deep I think, according to where she said the water went. She was driving very slowly. Everything was fine until around the middle of the flood and then loads of lights came on. ABS, Dynamic Stability Control, and Electronic Handbrake warnings. Car still drove home. Scanner shows below, some go after reset but come back after driving; VTG (Transfer Case) 520D Transfer Box(VTG): Line Disconnection, terminal 30b CF80 Signal from engine management: setpoint-torque request 5213 Transfer box(VTG): Servor motor: fault, load circuit 5215 Transfer box(VTG): Internal Control unit fault(software reset) 5216 Unexpected deactivation PWM 5222 Transfer box(VTG): Control Unit Complete Deactivation 522A Transfer box(VTG): Internal Control unit fault(software reset) ABS/DCS (Dynamic Stability Control) D36A No message recieved (VTG, 0xBC), reciever DSC, transmitter VTG D36B No message recieved (VTG, 0x376), reciever DSC, transmitter VTG 5F3A Transfer Case: Malfunction ECM/DME/DDE (Digital Motor/Diesel Electronics) 4C3C Message(SOLL_MOM_ANF, 0xBB) 49A6 LIN bus Communication Fault Electro-mechanical Parking Brake EMF DSC interface: Signal Invalid My guess is water got into somewhere it shouldn't, as car was fine prior to wading. I've had the bottom covers off the car and checked the connector on the servo motor on the transfer case. I looked dry and clean but gave it a spray with some electrical cleaner/lubricant (proper stuff, not WD40) just in case. I've also had the boot completely out and checked for water there, as I've read it can get into the electronics around that. Again, all looks fine and not wet, although it has stood for a couple of days before I could get time to look at it. 4x4 is definately not working at all - front wheels disengaged all the time. Parking brake does work when stationary, but not when moving. It's SUPPOSED to be good for half a metre, and I've definately had it in deep water before, with no issues. Any ideas on what to check next or what might be the problem? I'm hoping it's just water somewhere, as it was all fine prior to gettting wet. Don't really like the idea if it going back to BMW dealer if I can help it. thanks Paul.

Thanks Dave. Will investigate. Paul.

Hi, I have an issue with the A/C on my 2012 E70. Left side is blowing cold, right side is warmer but still a bit cold. I've seen a few videos about low A/C refrigerant causing that, as it prioritises the driver side (left in most of the world). I have a set of manifold gauges, but not totally sure what the low and high pressures should be on the X5. I'm guessing around 45 to 50 on low and around 150 on the high. Can anyone confirm 100% what is the correct pressure? thanks Paul.

Thanks. It's an E70. I'll try realoem thanks.

Run away. Most dealer warranties are hardly worth the paper they are written on, in my experience. If it has ANY issues during a test drive then I'd walk away. Dealer will tell you anything to get the sale but problems can be very expensive to fix. If some did put petrol in it then the damage to fuel system and engine etc. could easily write the car off. You've got to then prove that it wasn't you that did it - which is impossible.

Hi, can anyone tell me how to find the exact gearbox model I have on my 2012 40d Xdrive. thanks Paul.

The last one says missing LIN slave on steering wheel. The LIN system is what the car uses to talk to the various modules. If it can't talk to the steering wheel maybe that's why the cruise control is not working properly. I'm guessing though.

Very nice car. Paul.

Thanks. I'm just getting to grips with everything at the moment. Got a fault code reader but would like to know how to telnet to the vehicle. How does coding work?

Thanks for the info.

Thanks all.

Thanks Greydog. So if I can't turn it off do you know if the lock has a switch in it for comfort access that can be disconnected? I think the car thinks I'm pressing it all the time. I suppose if not it's a new/secondhand handle mechanism.

Hi all, 2012 E70 40d. recent purchase. I think there is something wrong with the drivers door handle. When I exit the vehicle and close the door it locks and then unlocks straight away. If I lock it via the remote when I'm a few feet from the vehicle and then walk towards it the door unlocks when I get close. Touching the door handle sensor for comfort access has no effect on the drivers door. However on the passenger side it seems to work correctly. I don't really need comfort access and would be happy to turn it off but I can't see an option for that in the menus. If not is it possible to disconnect the sensor on the drivers door without the car complaining of a fault? Second problem. The sat nav never loads and I get a clicking noise from behind the dash, so I think the hard drive is on the way out. I have managed to get another hard drive with 2019 maps on it off of fleabay, however I believe it will need to be coded (FSC) to the car. There are other sellers with codes and map updates but I'm not sure of the exact process. Can someone whose done it tell me what will happen if I change the drive - do I lose the entire system/radio/cd/controller or just navigation, until I get a code. Will the new drive work at all? If it doesn't work whats the process to make it work - do I just enter a code from the car or does it need to be plugged into a laptop etc. What if I can't make it work - can I put the old drive back or is it a one way process. Sorry for all the questions - new to the forum and X5. Any help appreciated. thanks Paul.

Hi everyone. New to this forum. I've just bought a 2012 X5 40D XDrive M Sport. Generally very good but I am going to be servicing it myself, so well worth being a member of a good group. It does have an issue with the satnav which I'm currently working to sort out. Hopefully avoiding BMW dealers where possible, as I can't afford their rates. Previously had a new 2013 520D estate but that was under warranty until I sold it so no need for any work.