Destroyer-Dan

SOLVED SOLVED SOLVED !!!! So I have replaced the actuator and it turns out the actuator on the car wasn't set up properly so I swapped it with the one I have as a spare and now the car goes like stink 🙂

Hi Dave so I have changed the 320D air intake manifold for a 318D manifold (same manifold but without the swirl flaps from factory) its had new seals and I've cleaned the intake valves using carb cleaner the car sounds a hell of a lot better now its much quieter and the pull is better than it was and its a lot more stable over the entire rev range I have fitted a new MAP sensor (boost pressure sensor) and replaced the anti shudder valve and so far so good I did do some live readings on the car and found that the turbo actuator isn't performing as it should luckily I have a spare one so I'm going to fit that and ill update you again... exhaust manifold isn't leaking either which is a bonus 🙂

Hi mate I cleared the fault code and it seems to off stayed away not sure why it appeared to be honest I did a oil change before I cleared the fault as well .... its only came back 1 time since i will change the sensor soon though

hi Dave so I've come to discover that the grinding noise wasn't actually a grinding noise but a exhaust manifold leak so I'm on route to fixing that I have also removed the air intake manifold to check for cracks the manifold itself is in good shape but I found a swirl flap had started to become loose so i've removed the swirl flaps all together and ive cleaned the air intake manifold as well as the intake valves I'm waiting for a delete kit to arrive in the post I have also removed and cleaned the egr valve and the throttle valve (anti shudder valve) ....the permanent fault code I have now is the boost pressure sensor (map sensor) so im going to replace that as well so once I have fixed the above I will give you an update hopefully everything goes well

So I had my timing chain done last year in December 2020 since then the car is really been sluggish I took the car back the in the same week as it was using a lot of diesel and the mechanic had a quick look under the bonnet to check that all the fuel system was fitted correctly (it was) so anyway a year later and the lack of power has gotten worse inbetween the time of me having the chain done I have replaced the turbo (original was fine) and i have changed the fuel filter and still no luck recently I have been having fault codes related to boost pressure sensor, dpf, and other faults which i will post a screen shot of I have gone the ISTA+/D and I calculated a test plan on the dpf and checked the back pressure using ISTA and its well within the parameters my anti shudder valve has failed to shut the engine off i will post the faults below hoping someone can shed some light on this I am going to clean the air intake manifold and the ports Im just hoping when my engine was fitted with a new timing chain it wasn't slighty off because after picked up the car it made a awful noise on the exhaust side of the engine and sounded like something was grinding which happened a couple of times on 3 separate occasions within 2 months after having the chain replaced it hasn't happened since though

So today I changed the fuel filter on my car as I thought the car sounded as if the injectors are starved on acceleration/under load the car runs a lot smoother and sounds a lot quieter it was overdue the fuel filter change … after I decided to scan my car with ISTA as I always do it’s a habit of mine I have a new error code 4CA0 Oil pressure switch, plausibility my question is does this sensor control the oil pressure or does it just read the oil pressure and send it back to the DDE I have no warning lights on the dash I had cleared the fault and rescanned the car the fault didn’t return until I next took the car for a drive is it just a simple case of replacing the oil sensor when I can be bothered or shall I stop driving the car until it’s replaced cheers

thank you mate ill give it a look over and get back to ou with an update

Hi mate I jacked up the D/S/R end of the car yesterday with the wheel removed I rotated the disc back an forth and I could hear and feel the knocking through the drive axel. The drive axel (from wheel to diff) didn't appear to move instantaneously it seems there is slight play but its enough to cause a knock throughout the entire car when I pull off in 1st gear from being stationary and its the same for reverse as well so after I noticed that I decided to check the prop shaft and rotate that and there is also a knocking there when I use the same method that I applied to the disc.

Hi all I have a 177bhp n47 e90 the original diff has play and and needs replacing Ive been searching the net and stumbled across diff ratios for short shifting and better acceleration my original diff has a ratio of 2.56 ive been looking to upgrade to a 3.46 or what ever the highest ratio i can that is compatible with my car also does anyone have the information on what the speed comparison will be through out the gears i understand that a higher ratio i will lose top speed but im attracted to faster acceleration thanks dan

Thank you so much mate you have been amazing !!! everything is now completely solved just doing the suspension all round and things for mot I can’t wait to drive it again the engine runs so smooth now I’ve managed to get the Glow plug module sorted

So the battery is all good, oddly it was my version of ISTA that was actually at fault it has been acting up recently but Wednesday night it decided to give up and corrupt on me so I binned it off and got the latest version I’ve scanned the car several times through out the past two days and every time every module is perfect

thank you mate honestly youve been a life saver ! one thing i did notice is that after turning off the engine and removing the key from the ignition the turbo actuator seems to have a mind of its own small but rapidly moving up and down

Hi mate I have no warnings come up on the dash board all the controls in the car work oddly radio, windows, air conditioning and thing works… I’ll give the battery a good charge and report back to you thank you again mate

ok so the car runs and i've managed to solve the original issue but I have this demon of faults lurking in the background AGAIN where I keep scanning the car and I get different fault codes appear all non communication faults (at one point every unit in the control tree was red) 😞 I'm debating if its actually worth me throwing the money at the car to repair as I took it off when it broke down originally and its going to need a few things to get through a MOT. I'm starting to feel defeated !

I forgot to mention… the previous fault codes I had are phantom codes. When I was trying to start the car it would bring up different fault codes each time because of the shorted ground circuit so if you have this issue where your scanning the car and each time the fault codes are different remove the negative battery terminal for 10+mins not to sure how long it takes for the ecu to reset itself …. Reconnected the negative terminal TURN IGNITION ON ONLY DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE !!!!! now scan your faults and it should display the correct faults and go from there but again do not start the car because the short circuit will throw off other sensors and things (this applies if you have a electrical fault like me)

Thank you for everything mate

I forgot all about the thread in the end I just removed all the trailer harness as it was so bad it wasn’t worth trying to repair so my car has lost one feature for now but in the future I will replace it I just forget about it as I don’t use the car to tow anything ever

!!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!! SOLVED !!! so today I discovered the whole reason behind why my car wouldn't start the wiring loom for the turbo actuator and the MAF sensor had managed to work its way loose from the secure tabs that hold the wiring loom in place and got burnt by the hot part of the EGR valve causing a short circuit to ground (ground being the engine itself) so as a temporary fix I have separated the loom that has exposed wire and wrapped it up in electrical tape (I’ve cable tied the loom so is not going anywhere) also I installed the new DDE Relay which wasn't the issue as once I complete the install it didnt start so I checked the fuses in the DDE Compartment again and somehow I've managed to miss a blown 20amp fuse lol so I replaced that and Voilá its back to life so for anyone else reading this if you ever run into these main fault codes (all at the same time) 004320 DDE: Delivery control valve, activation 004350 DDE: Rail pressure control valve, activation 004191 DDE: Charging/boost pressure actuator, activation 00483D DDE: Throttle actuator 003EC0 Camshaft sensor circuit, no signal check your fuses in your DDE Compartment under the bonnet and check hotspots on engine if you can because it could be something as simple as my problem was… I had a company tell me the timing chain had failed just because they seen code 003EC0 Camshaft sensor circuit, no signal telling me I needed a engine rebuild and all sorts of rubbish (I had the timing chain replaced December last year) BIG MASSIVE THANK YOU TO GREY DOG for guiding me through it and taking the time to help me I really appreciate you mate IMG_4484.MP4 FullSizeRender.mov

thanks mate

just another quick one still waiting on the DDE Relay I think ive discovered that there are two relays in the ECU compartment is that correct one black one and the blue DDE Relay what is the black one for ? ITS FOR ELECTRIC FAN LOL JUST CHECKED IT OUT

Yes that’s the odd thing I have changed the glow plugs and the module and still have this fault which I looked on the ista software it says check grounds so that’s my last check point

A little update so I’ve made some progress not loads but a bit so I only have faults on the DDE and DSC now I know what the DSC is (rear brake pad wear sensor broken) I have looked on ista and the DDE faults have pointed me in the direction of the DDE Relay being faulty so I’ve removed that and waiting for one to arrive in the post I also need to check the ground connection for the starter motor and the alternator I had this error since I brought the car and I believe that is what is interfering with the preheating control unit causing the error code 004A79 & 007A74 thanks for your help mate honestly it’s you’ve been helpful and I’m the meantime I’ve learnt ista as well so it’s been a bonus amazing software

Thank you so much mate 100%

hahaha I was lucky enough to get it when I brought the car ...... I can do the odd mechanical jobs but electrics just throw me off completely so I have a lot to learn just another thought as well referring back to a previous reply you mentioned the DDE Relay I've actually had a fault for that and it gave me a wiring diagram which I have posted so ill be replacing the relay hopefully that fixes all the DDE Issues as the car turns over but doesn't start..... another possibility I have fitted genuine bmw angel eyes to the car but replaced the original bulbs with L.E.D bulbs is it possible that could cause the FRM issue all the windows lights and everything still work even though the FRM module has a short ? ........( answer to previous question on the FRM I did a visual check of the pins and there was no corrosion or anything I could see visually)

so ive scanned the car again and after clearing the fault codes i get different codes come up its now saying that the JBE is ok so there must have been a loose fuse or something as that has now turned green..... ive have screen shot the faults twice to show two different fault codes and wiring diagrams i am assuming that the red means there is some kind of break or is that live power ? im unsure lol clueless when it comes to electrics tbh it also shows a short circuit on the frm on the test plan