jenksy0198

OK, so had the stethoscope test done and yes, water pump had gone. Not a bad life to be fair, 97K mls. New one installed and also had the belt changed as well. Onwards.......

Cheers Dave, took some planning to ensure it was in the correct position though..

Hi all, I got the adhesive that was recommended in a you tube video with instructions, it was from Permatex. I had to ensure I removed the old adhesive from the silver disk first which took some doing but needed a sharp knife and a razor blade to lift it all. There was no adhesive debris on the wind screen. To fix I then used a wipe supplied in the kit and used a small amount of the adhesive also supplied. The bond took less than a minute. You do need to be sure of the location as the bond is very quick so ensure you can locate the mirror accurately otherwise it is going to get messy. N.B. I had to remove the two connectors to ensure the mirror could be located properly. It was a little fiddly getting them out but went back once mirror was fixed to the windscreen. A good experience though for me and mirror is back on with the accompanying casing parts also.

Yes, sensor on the glass

Ill research the adhesive thanks Dave. Yes, to the clean surfaces.

Never experienced this before but the rear view mirror has seemingly parted company from the windscreen. It seems that a round metal disk should be glued in some way to the windscreen and then the plastic housing can be put back. Any experience/instruction out there on how best to go about reattaching this?

Great advice gents, got a similar type of noise, literally started today, definite cyclic in nature so linked to the belt and pulleys and will try the WD40 first to see if I can isolate the cause of it before moving on.

I can confirm, no more appearance of any condensation in headlights so this is a worthy fix.

Just started up this morning to be greeted with a real whistle which I think is coming from the water pump. Definite link to the belt as the frequency is clearly aligned with the belt and pulley speed. Is this a sign of water pump on way out or something else. I am guessing water pump, is there anything else I should be looking at to find the culprit. Literally, no sound two days ago and got this rotary whistle this morning. How long have I got?

Well I have wince heard of an X5 having exactly the same issue. Seems the foam sections used to prevent scratching are acting as contact water reservoirs and corroding the brake pipe which runs nearest to them. Check em out people as normally would not be picked up on MOT. Sounds like a real design flaw that BMW need to get changed and quickly.

Hi all, the last time I put new tyres on was sept 21 and since then I have done about 3.5 - 4K annual miles. Just had MOT and been informed that the rear tyres are perished and on advisory needing to be replaced after only 7.5k miles. Is anyone else seeing this phenomena of tyres perishing due to low mileage.Seems a new set of tyres are needed each 3 year period due to them perishing!!!.

Hi greydog, all down to a failed angel eye lamp, so I replaced both sides and all now good. Hi Dave, it was all about one of the the angel eye bulbs having gone, so installed two new front ones. All good.

HI all, got a parking light failure message and trying to identify the correct bulb to purchase. Also if there is any video guidance on how to replace the failed bulb that would be great also.

Yes 650i convertible, my error by the way I though I read 325Ci. mine and yours should be near enough identical. Here are the images I mentioned. pic 1 - back corner of the storage area - 1 each side pic 2 - literally adjacent to the rear strut pillar Pic 3 - rear corner nearest to the rear of the vehicle right side Pic 4 - as above left side Pic 5 - same as pic 1 but other side - this location is tucked right back immediately under the folding brackets. I am not aware of any other drains under that protective cover as that does not lift up. There have been times I have had several inches of water in there sloshing about but none has actually entered the passenger compartment. As I said I do look to blow through these drains on a regular basis. Hope this helps. I have had water getting into the boot area carpet, this rides under that black plastic cover you can see in pics 3/4. and drips into the boot. BTW Im in Formby and more than happy to meet and talk it through if that helps. The whole system of the softtop seal onto the car body is not watertight hence the need for drains but these have to be kept clear otherwise water does build up and can get into the boot area as noted above.

will do...... as you can see from the photo it is the area under the fuse box to the right side of engine compartment looking from the front. Hope the experience has value to someone out there.. The previous experience I mentioned of an inaccessible brake line fail was on an X5 not a 5 series.

OK, further info - the brake pipe in question, 1 of 3 as seen in the pics, is the one running close to an area of foam. It seems the foam has provided a source of constant wetting which has resulted in the pipe failure. The other two pipes are perfect. For those 2006 onwards 6 series owners out there, you might want to check this out and just visually check the condition of the pipe in this location. Very lucky indeed.

Ok , I agree with the BMW drawing although yours and mine will be different, the locations look familiar. I don't know the Ci set up but I have never had any water getting into the actual car cockpit, only the soft top stow away area, served by the drains. This stow away area is not carpeted either. Ill send some pics so you can see the differences and the drain points as best I can identify them. It sounds like you have water getting into the main cockpit of the car, especially if you have to lift carpet as described in your missive. Never had that issue.

Hi all, was lucky to have experienced this problem out at slow speed and just damaged a number plate!! I had a rapid loss of brake fluid which only alerted immediately prior to a full soft pedal. On inspection it appears a brake pipe had failed in a completely inaccessible area under a range of covers under the front engine bay fuse box. Never would be picked up on an MOT as you cant remove such covers. Anyway it seems this may be a type fault on the vehicle, water collection area, and I would recommend you get the area inspected. Garage said they had only ever seen this on 5 series also. Pics attached, Pipes under the front right fusebox area.

Ive only ever had an issue with my 650 soft top but that was in the soft top stow away area, not the car but that problem was due to blocked drainage points. There are 4 of them in there. I now blow them through on a regular basis with a weak warm bleach solution using a baster as it happens. So, whilst not exactly your case but was the drain points that were the issue.

for info - I just put the fix in place as per the you tube vid above. You do have to wet the foam otherwise the adhesive side is just too sticky to locate it properly, but it all went in ok with a little fettling. Hoping this works now. Nice tidy job. I used the 5mm thick and 10 mm width tape which seemed to be the right size.

HI all, looking to replace mats in E64. Anyone got a reasonable after market recommendation, preferably with the velcro fixings already attached. Thanks.

OK to close this out, batteries have a life and it looks like mine, which was purchased in 2019, has run out. Because the majority of journeys in the E64 are relatively short it looks like the cycling and cranking draw on the battery is taking its toll. The non cranking experience has continued so will invest in a new battery and put some regular longer runs in. Hopefully that will sort the issue I have had.

Now that is a good idea. Will check it out

HI all, I have been suffering a slow discharge from the battery which has resulted in low cranking amps. Car isn't doing that many miles so put it down to low charging so set up a regular charge up practice. I think something is drawing on the battery. After a closer inspection I think it is the glove box light...why? I am assuming the glove box light is activated when the opener is released and the two sprung clips release from the bars located in the opening part. I am assuming this as I can't see any other sprung clip that activates the glove box light. However, when I press these sprung clips in by hand, either together or separately, the light stays on. This would explain why I am experiencing this slow draw on the battery. Does this sound correct or is there some other sensor that controls the light on/off in the glove box. Seems my only solution would be to remove the bulb in the glove box which is no big deal.