TCon

Hi Joe, If the car has being stood still for a long time you should change the oil anyway. Oil becomes acidic after a period of time thats why you are usually advised to change it at a set time or interval. 6k to me is a little more than i do when i change mine. i go for about 5k then change it but i do it myself so no labour costs. I would agree with Greydog about the oil levels, run it and let it sit for five mins then recheck it. Regarding your battery, id say its had its day. If it was 33% in 2016 and now its been standing for a bit, id say its toast. Once again follow Greydogs advice about finding the correct battery but rather than going to a stealership, shop around. There are far better prices around. Fitting one is mechanically easy to do but just a heavy lump to move. Getting it coded to the car is straight forward enough so anyone with any half decent OBD reader could probably do it for you but im sure if you look in the wanted ads you'll find someone who can far cheaper than at the stealership. Im sure you can reduce that quoted cost down. Also check You Tube, you'll be surprised how easy it actually is. Ive had an issue with me EGR due to a sticking roller bearing inside the EGR mechanicals. A good clean and a regrease sorted it but it lead me to seeing the carbon build up in the inlet manifold, which was bad. I removed and cleaned the manifold but more importantly I recently had the EGR blanked, the DPF removed and the error codes programmed out. Been a month now and no complaints. Also purrs nicer now too. Might be worth a thought.

That's only if you completely discharge the two tanks 😉 I'll definitely do a right up with pics, diagrams and links if anyone want to use it as a guide....might even put some dashcam footage 🙄

The compressor is only at max 10 amps so should be fine. If it was any higher I would probably put in a relay but its not a lot of current and it will only be running for a short time as it flows 0.88 cfm at 0 ps so it should fill both the 1 ltr tank and the reservoir to 100 psi in less than two mins from empty. After use it will kick in again when the pressure is below 70 psi. Nappys are a must now for passengers 😂

Morning The plan is to mount it at the rear under the boot. In the engine bay it was just too tight. On the rear underside of the F11 in the center is a plastic box which holds the cars air compressor for the rear air bags, but to the right of it is an empty plastic box which when removed has enough room for the compressor and the air tank. Its also right beside the grommet to the boot which will allow me access to power inside. The actual horns are going to be fit into the space between the rear bumper cover and the body of the car. Its very tight but with a little effort, its possible. Yesterday I took out the right rear boot covers/panels to gain access to the power socket. I have connected in a wire to the power socket and have it ready. I will add an inline fuse for both the compressor and the switch/solenoid power source. The power plug in the boot already has a fuse but I'll add an inline one anyway. I have added a diagram of what I'm thinking of in terms of wiring. Although your thoughts of using a relay sounds appealing.

Hi everyone, I'm curious to your opinion on the use of fuel additives in your BMW. As I am sure everyone knows BMW state on their fuel caps not to use fuel additives. But what do you do if you feel your injectors and other fuel components might be dirty. Also, why do you think they say not to use them and do you think they are right, or have you experience to say they are right? If you do use them, which one do you use? What's your view?🤔

'God thats going to be loud' That's what I'm hoping 😉 although "train horn" could be an exaggeration. The horn was advertised as such but might just be a loud air horn. But it does have its own built-in air reservoir and I am adding a 1ltr air tank and a 120psi compressor, a 70-100 psi pressure switch connected to a momentary switch. I have had enough of idiot drivers and fools strolling across the road who don't care to move out of the moving cars way. So I'm going to make them think twice next time. Oh and I have a dashcam too so funny reactions will be recorded. 😜 I kinda want it to be powered from a switchable power source so the compressor doesn't keep running all night if it sprang an air leak. That way it shouldn't burn itself out or drain my battery.

I was curious about this so I did some more digging and it appears at least in the F10/11 that not all have motors/actuators and they tend to stay closed unless it gets really warm under the bonnet. Check out the link to another forum about it below. https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1029706

Dave im not sure that is correct. I remember commanding the flaps to open with my diagnostic equipment on either my F11 or an E90 (cant remember which at the time), so it must have a motor or actuator of some description on an 2009 X5. Aldis, have you access to an diagnostic program that you can try command it to open? if not have a look for fuses and a motor/actuator and check the wiring. Maybe someone here will have a wiring diagram that might help.

That linked PDF above is brilliant. We should start a thread with links like this with information in it arranged in the formats of the different models of BMW's. Then people with informative PDF's for each model can upload information for the members to freely download when needed. ....or is this already a thing? 🤔 Either way, I have some great info on F10/F11 models that I would like to share as im sure most people do.

Hi everyone, Does anyone have a diagram for the wiring of the rear luggage compartment (F11) power socket. I thought I had one but I was wrong. I said id would ask here first before Google as that can give false information and have me running around in circles for hours. I'm planning on installing a train horn and when its done I'll post a good write up with picks, diagrams and links if anyone is interested. The intention is to power the air compressor from the power socket, assuming this is a switched power source. Before I start pulling things apart I would like to have all the information at hand. Also if anyone has any insight to a better way to go about this or pervious experience in doing this would be grateful of your opinions.

Way ahead of you 😉👍🏻 I have my wish list of OEM part numbers almost done and my bank account primed and ready for a big impact. Now how do I get time?? 🤔

Hi Dave Made your own tools to do the work. That's impressive 👍🏻 I've started compiling the part numbers for the bushings that I need to do all the diff and drive shaft rubbers. I'm also thinking of powerflex polyurethane bushings for the diff. I may change the diff seals too while it's out. Thankfully these parts are not expensive but rather time consuming. But by the sound of your X5 it's well worth the effort.

Was a solution to this found? If not, when you operate the glass window does it do the same? or is it only when you open the whole tailgate? When you manually pull the cover in and then out is there a point of more friction or a notch? If you knew anyone with the same car it'd be great to try their retracting parcel shelf cover to see if it was the cover or the tailgate. Would the dealer have one to try out, it'd only take two mins to swap over and try it. Maybe have a look on Real OEM for where the switch for the tailgate to recognize when it is in the closed position is and check the continuity on it.

Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.

Thanks Dave. Yep ive definitely done a bit with it. Going to change my gearbox mounts and maybe the diff mounts and rubber doughnuts too. 🤞

Hi everyone 👋 Im Tony and I have had a 2013 503d F11 for the last 3 years and ive done quite a bit of work to maintain it as I plan on holding onto it for a long time. Im handy with the spanners and to date I have done to it things like, changed steering wheel to paddle shifters, refurbished the entire airbag suspension, changed the gearbox oil (twice), changed coolant gaskets behind the oil filter, removed and cleaned inlet manifold, deleted the egr, swapped the idrive controller knob, swapped the parking brake button, updated the sat nav, coded things (video in motion, stop/start default to off, paddle shifter enable, enabled LEDs all round, ect) and all general maintenance work that is required like timing chains, diff oil, diesel and engine/cabin air filters., ect. I have also ran into the usual issues associated with these models such as the dreaded water in rear footwell issue (easily sorted actually), changed the rear light due to vandalism X2 😡 and im sure there are more im forgetting. So if I can assist anyone with issues they are having feel free to give me a shout out anytime. Oh I am not finished doing things to this car either as I plan on doing some serious road trips in this car and im going to be putting a lot more mileage on it in the future. So I'll post more of what I get up to. 😁

I have a 530d F11 which I had on run flats for a year then switched as they were harsh. I've had Goodyear Eagle F1 R18 on it the last two years and I would never switch back. Aside from the obvious cost, its quieter and smoother over bumps. I don't have TPM in the wheels so no problems there and the rate of wear is the same as before. As I have breakdown assistance on my insurance I'm not worried about getting a flat (so far I haven't gotten one) but I did buy a space saver wheel for when I do long journey's. Handling in the corners is not different as far I am concerned. Its a heavy car so no amount of tire reinforcement will make it any better than it is. Other than concern for getting a flat id say do it, save the money. Worst case you have tires that you don't like for maybe a year or so then change them but at least you'll have your own opinion of what suites you best.