Aaron19771977

I’m thinking injections it was very noisy

Not check them parts yet, tried easy start today and car fired up then died

Engine was loud running back to my house about 30 min , left till morning started same problem engine loud like it had a bad misfire or like the air filter was off but wasn’t , then took for another 1 miles drive and all power went would accelerate drove at 10pm at most with no throttle response got home and struggles to start up and when press gas pedal it cuts out , now won’t start … current got the crank sensor off and I’m not sure if it’s work correctly as it did show a fault with that then once cleared hasn’t came back , it’s a 3 pin , on ohms 2k if I touch pin 1&2 on sensor I get a reading of .341 - pin1 nearest to sensor bolt pin2 next to pin1 pin 1 & 3 no reading pin 3 & 1 .761 can you shed some light on this, supposed to be picking up a new sensor for £90 at bmw today but still not sure if the sensor is faulty thanks

Also when crank sensor is removed and trying to start car I’ve got same symptoms no new ones , does this point to it being a faulty crank sensor?

Got the crank sensor off but How do I test this please , it wasn’t near the starter motor, was on other side of housing , it wasn’t to bad to get off but have to work blind

The parts were all the correct ones and checked with realoem , ok so it won’t be the glow plugs or module , can you tell me where the starter relay and fuel pump relays are please and be to checked them , also wouldn’t the tests I done in ista on fuel rail confirm the pump is working Thanks

Hi, thanks for that info , the dpf has been gutted and mapped out I’ve had the fan running on the front a lot when driving I’ve noticed after the dpf gut then fan didn’t run as loud all the time when driving the car, now I had the problem with car sounding very loud and now not starting , fuel filter changed last year, glow plugs error apart from the module one have always been there , when I cleaned the inlet manifold I replaced the flow plug module as I was in that area. Camshaft sensor was changed this year when I done the rocker cover , not checked the crankshaft sensor , how would I do this and does the starter motor need to be remove or maybe inlet manifold, should I replace the flow plug module first, so a faulty glow plug module would make the car sound like a tank when driving it and on acceleration cut out and then get worse and cause it to not run or start ? thabks grey

I had to buy a new battery as other one was going flat to quick I can’t get the car to start it cracks tho, so can’t get any injector readings but have some more readings from ista for you to shed some light on also I’m getting new codes now and clearing them then cranking the engine they come back , take a look see what you think , car try’s to start but doesn’t .. ps I’ve registered new battery with ista IMG_3603.mov

Hi, I’ve got ista, and was trying to check the fuel pressure pump but couldn’t find out how too, I check the rail pressure if that helps , 2.4 flicking to 0 bar on off cranking was 404bar Battery is charging as well as very weak and now won’t turn car over

Hi it’s a e70 n57 code on Carly , looked through camshaft sensor hole when I removed it and I can see camshaft turning when cranking

Hi all. I had a issue last night when the car started sounding like a tank when driving it and when stationary sounds rough, drove car home about 10 miles slow and took the car out today and when accelerate it would nearly Stop it cut out and how it lost 99% power just got it home as was only a half a mile away and now it starts after loads of attempts and sounds like it has no power and when I rev the car it cuts out, this is the new recent code today , no codes yesterday 3E91 crankshaft sensor signal - anyone know what this can be? I did have a spare crankshaft sensor that I tried and still the same issues unless that one was faulty from eBay ??

Also Is it normal for the water to trickle back to expansion tank on cold start? Also bleeding electronic process not working on car when holding accelerator down, I thought engine temp must get hot to open thermostat before it trickles back

Radiator Fan always on and when driving it gets louder/faster then stopping it goes lower speed but still on, changed the coolant sensor on front of engine today and still got the problem , i had the dpf recently gutted and deleted , not sure if that has anything to do with it , no signs of over heating , temp sits at about 100 at normal driving speed - checked pressing button for hidding menu, no coolant loss and coolant level good, no codes either in ista, any help appreciated