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DDONNY

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Everything posted by DDONNY

  1. DDONNY
    Now I just have to put in a good battery and figure what, and where, went POP.
  2. DDONNY
    Re: dead battery keeps trunk or boot from opening. OK. I stumbled upon (in my brain), that you have to push the black surround keyway about a half an inch in, while the emergency key goes in. Amazing! Too bad it won't work for a 2011 BMW. re: 2003 Mercedes CLK430.
  3. DDONNY
    To top that, I was looking for a tool to pull fuses and opened up the fuse cover in my '92 BMW E36 five-speed; and found out why I had been smelling burning plastic for a couple of weeks. The car was running just fine but found out that I had a small fire in the fuse box. The heater fan motor must have locked up. UGLEY! Something more to work on.
  4. DDONNY
    I tried hooking up my charger but got just a pop! The charger didn't make the pop, so I guess something in the car made the pop. I tested several fuses, for a blow out but saw nothing. I will put in a new battery for the fob. If that doesn't work, I will look for the red battery cable under the rear seat and cut the wire; hook it to a good battery and see if that will work.
  5. DDONNY
    I forgot to mention that the trunk won't open because the battery is dead; and nothing will open it. Door will open with emergency key; but not for the trunk. I had not driven it since the middle of December.
  6. DDONNY
    hey X5smw., this is DDONNY. I tried a pair of cheap pair of jumper cables; hooked it up to what looks like charging points under the hood in my Mercedes 2003 CLK430, and it burned quickly. Would a charger work? + on the red clip and black clip - grounding a bolt or nut on the steel? What I see is on the top of driver's fender with two fairly large wires attached to somewhere that appears to be +.
  7. DDONNY
    And, of course, if you can't open the hood, you can't use the + and - to put power to the doors, windows, lights, keyway, etc.
  8. DDONNY
    I just now remembered that you could use under the hood cables to hook up to a good battery. That should allow you to open the boot and doors.
  9. DDONNY
    I probably won't be able to remember exactly step by step. (That happened with a 2003 Mercedes, one problem similar to the '92 BMW 325i. That time my battery looked like nearly new, but it was quite old. A new battery solved that problem.) As for the '92 , the instrument cluster lights likely went out some day before that day. It works, but lights are out. I have some extra lights; just haven't removed it yet. I have a few clusters that I have bought used over the years. Now the most important: The back driver's side door window was opened about one inch; I used a coat hanger to pull knob up; (the driver's door). After that it was easy. I put a new battery in and turned the ignition key; all was good. You might have to use a circular hole saw behind your car tag to open the boot.
  10. DDONNY
    I learned the effects of using ordinary water mixed with coolants, a few months ago. I knew it was wrong a long time ago from manuals, friends and forums, but I just didn't have the time/care. From now on I am using distilled water for every car I have. I have a two-car garage, but it is full of car parts, tools (plumbing, carpentry, electricity), so it's the driveway.
  11. DDONNY
    Good advice from Greydog, but in the latter years I would pay for used parts, ordinary mixing coolant with drinking water, bought used tires, and new when I had to. Keeping up with old cars is a chore. One of these days I will pay $240 for a new HV/AC solenoid. Two 3/4" brass, Hollow L shaped, will do for now. I will also remove the inside of the thermostat moving parts (and keep the rest) in the old cars. My other cars are: '97 Volvo 850 GLT wagon, '95 Volvo 960 wagon, and the newest is a Mercedes 2003 CLK430.
  12. DDONNY
    Update: I checked my battery and it charged in 5 minutes, so I don't have to find another alternator. All seems to be OK except for the plastic "L"s with a short rubber hose that bypass the HV/AC solenoid. Those get clogged after @ 150,000-190,000 miles (if distilled water wasn't used) and cause air pockets that try to burst radiators. I have a few more brass "L"s, so now I can throw the plastic ones away. I have to be careful I don't fog the windows though, without heat or cool.
  13. DDONNY
    Things went well, once I used a coat hanger to open the driver's side door in the back. Also, I had bought a trunk lid some time ago (and steering wheel, driver's side door, and several other things) from a guy that was selling parts. It was lucky I got the trunk electrical part that opens up all the doors with a key. That happened a day or two later; not right away. I guess that feature had to come back to life. I'm in the process of cutting out the A/C condenser aluminum that will give the radiator better cooling. I will put in another fan motor, because the other one had seized up. I may have to put in another alternator, just to be sure. As for the airbags, for both BMW '92s. I reused the original crash sensors instead of the clean ones that were likely from a collision. Live and learn.
  14. DDONNY
    I forgot that I have a lot of 100s, and "fairs 84, 85, 87", "goods 93 ", and a few "not so goods".
  15. DDONNY
    OK. I removed the front bumper and took out the A/C fan. (blue '92 325i) I still can't grasp the hood cable. It looked difficult, so I decided to take a shirt hanger and pull the doorknob up. Wow, that was easy because I had plastic rain awnings on the glass. It opened a back door and then the others. I changed out the airbag crash sensors back to the old ones. Things seems to be normal, but I didn't drive it. I tried to do the same to the other '92, but a light came on re: airbag. I had already messed up one of the sensors, so I will have to do surgery on one or both. The A/C fan was rusted, so I might put a better one on, or just leave it alone....As for the Beacon, it's only supposed to see that I'm not speeding, gently turn, gently go from 0 to speed limit, mileage, etc. I have to keep the mileage often.
  16. DDONNY
    This Blue '92 is a sport car and acts more like a mustang than Its rider. Around here in the Atlanta area, A driver has to stop quickly and has to know when to get into the crowd, and away from the crazies. Also, the roads here are winding and up and down. It's not like Kansas, where roads are north and south and east and west, and one can see miles ahead and behind. Sooo, I'm not sure that they are treated the same way by the APP. (Maybe State Farm will read this).
  17. DDONNY
    It is something that the owner of the cars can have $ removed from high insurance premiums. The APP lets the driver how well they are doing: How many miles, what the route is, Braking, Acceleration, Speed, Cornering, Phone distraction.
  18. DDONNY
    Greydog and X5smw. Once I open the hood, what next? I know this time that I need to remove the battery cable. Can I just remove the airbag crash sensors and replace with the original ones (with tar coming out of the ACS). I would want to remove all of the sensors and air bags. Would that help or not? I just want to be able to open the doors with a key again.
  19. DDONNY
    It looks like I will remove the full plastic bumper. That way I can reach the cable easier. I have started. Little by little. Too many errands taking up time.
  20. DDONNY
    OK. Good. Some plastic will crack but that's better than using a hole saw going through the hood. Thanks.
  21. DDONNY
    Oh. I forgot to mention that I have the State Farm "Beacon", Drive Safe & Save. Is it possible that the Beacon could shut down my '92 BMW 325i? Are there any other posts that deal with BMW shutting down a near perfect car that doesn't belong to them?
  22. DDONNY
    Greydog. I posted about 41 minutes ago at "BMW 318i boot locked can't get into". It was the only post that I could find that was remotely close to my post.
  23. DDONNY
    This is my only '92 photo that is already in my home computer. I have another '92 also, I'm afraid that it will do the same if I drive it. I have 6 other cars: An '87 BMW 528E, '95 BMW 325i., '96 328ic. The other 3 are EU.
  24. DDONNY
    A couple days I decided to replace the 2 airbag crash sensors on my '92 BMW E36. I assumed that a couple of used, but cleaner, 2 sensors, would be better than the old ones with black tar coming out. My '92 engine is the best ever, five speed, and I have been doing most of my maintenance. After a short trip, 5 miles, in the dark. First came the instrument panel go dead except for the mileage numbers. It seemed to be OK but I locked the doors. In the morning, the key wouldn't open any door except for the trunk lid. I thought it was a bad battery and I put a charged one in. That didn't help. I didn't consider the fact that the one or two of the crash sensors might have come from an E36 wrecked car. Do I cut away a big hole in the hood, above the locking cable? Should I put the old ones back in? I have no way to open the doors. I think that is a rotten deal, to cause all this trouble for the owner. Any ideas? The crash sensor is next to the right/left front strut towers.
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