G4VHD

Welcome along mate, I dont think your too young at all. I've come from small hatches to a 4 door saloon diesel, im 27 and and all I get of people is 'Wow what a nice car, take me for a spin'. Plus 6's are sexy as... Go for it if you can afford it mate.

Were doing one in July, Andy-mcq, Steve and my self are definates. We need ten cars for the stand. Have a look at the pinned thread about the show mate.

Dont sound good, ill ask my mate monday, he knows his stuff.

Welcome aboard Rick.. Im not to good with mechanics myself so cant help you out much, but I'd say it was def a job for the garage. Prob someone will be along later who knows a little more. Oh and nice car you have there...I bet it can shift cant it?

Ill add you later mate, mines soul1assassin is you get there first...

Ill get some pics up of all the befores today if I get time..

Yeah bonnet is mashed, Some will deffo come out Andy, but there are gouges in one of the skirts and the front bumper. Plus some rust under the surface on both rear arches. Who ever had it last seriously looked after the inside, but didnt care about the bodywork. Im the sort of person who wants my car perfect mate, I know im going to end up doing a full spray job in the end..just got to find a little extra cash :mellow:

Becase we opened our own haidressers in December and I have had to go self employed in my job, its become a little awkward to go away on holiday this year. So I've decided to spend the money on the BMW. I've got a list of jobs, Im starting today and hopfully have it like a new one before Santa Pod in July. Firstly today im going to tackle the !Removed! handbrake, I brought new cables so they will be fitted today. Next the interior silver trim is going Saphier Black the same as the body. Does anyone know how to remove the silver trim on the steering wheel before I attack it with a flat head?? After that, I need to find out what that noise on shutdown is (previous vid posted), and get that fixed. Sort out front suspension Knock (any advice on this is very welcome) Refurb wheels, Ill be doing this wheel by wheel over the next few weeks as I can do this at work without it costing me for paint! ;) Full service Then exterior, Some of the black trim need replacing as some is scratched, scrapyard job I think... Then the paint... Going to see which will be cheeper, someone to blow in the scratches and paint the bonnet, or a full new paint job. I know someone with a propper spray booth and oven, and I've seen his work and its spot on. I think thats it, Im going to take lots of before pics and lots of after ones. Any advice or thoughts on anything here is welcome... Oh, the radio, I've lost sound in nearside front speaker and nearside rear cackles even when the radio is off....so will be looking at this too..

I'll add inflation,

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo........

Im up for it every weekend, its worth a divorce I think :-) I wanted to go this year but, well, It aint happening Next year 100% Andy, even if its just us two..

Old, but still kills me

Ill tell you what lets make this the last post :rolleyes:

Did someone say pub????? :rolleyes:

Durrrrrrrrrrrr :blink:

I must have missed this post sorry Happy new year Bimmer fans :)

I've always been madly confused by brake fluid, I hope it helps others out

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/

There is a degree of confusion regarding the specification of brake fluid and this article sets out to clarify the situation. The Department of Transportation (DOT) classifies brake fluids to defined specifications. These specifications relate to their boiling points and chemical composition, both of which are important. All currently available brake fluids are covered by one of the following specifications; DOT3, DOT4, DOT5 and DOT5.1. The laws of thermo-dynamics dictate that the energy from motion is turned into heat through friction. A braking system only works efficiently if the fluid remains incompressible. If the brake fluid boils, it turns to gas, which is compressible and the braking system becomes “spongy” or in extreme cases fails completely. A brake system is not perfectly sealed and moisture can get into the system and be absorbed by the fluid. The effect is to reduce the boiling point of the fluid, which reduces the efficiency of the braking system, as described above. The DOT specifies two reference tests for brake fluids. * Dry boiling point - the boiling point of fresh fluid * Wet boiling point –the boiling point once the fluid has absorbed moisture (representing brake fluid after time spent in a real situation). There are two main types of brake fluids: * DOT 3, DOT 4, Super DOT4* and DOT 5.1 which are based on poly glycol compounds. * DOT 5, which are based on Silicone. Note the two types of fluid are not compatible and must not be mixed in a braking system. SILICONE BRAKE FLUID (DOT 5) Silicone based DOT 5 was originally introduced to give higher temperature performance over glycol DOT 4. Silicone fluid also has other advantages, it does not damage paintwork and it does not absorb water. However, silicone fluid is a poor lubricant and does not lubricate ABS pumps as well as PAG fluids. It is also more compressible than PAG fluids, which can result in a sluggish or spongy pedal. It therefore requires special design considerations in braking systems. Further, because it does not absorb water, any water remains as globules, which can pool in low spots in the system and cause corrosion. This water can vaporise when heated under heavy braking giving a disastrous effect on braking efficiency. DOT5 fluids are not recommended for motor sport applications. POLY GLYCOL BRAKE FLUIDS (DOT 3, 4 AND 5.1) Glycol based DOT 4 fluid is the current mainstream brake fluid, and you will see that the specification is considerably better than DOT 3 which it replaces. DOT 5.1 has higher specification still and is for fast road and occasional track day use. It has a similar spec to DOT4 for the boiling point (>260) but is a lot lower viscosity @-40C typically 900 centistokes (compared to 1500 - 1800 centistokes for DOT 4 and super DOT 4). Listed in the table below, are the minimum dry/wet boiling point specifications for each DOT level. BOILING POINT: DOT 3 - 205°C (dry) / 140°C (wet) DOT 4 - 230°C (dry) / 155°C (wet) DOT 5 (silicone) - 260°C (dry) / 185°C (wet) DOT 5.1 (PAG) - 260°C (dry) / 185°C (wet) Super Dot4 * - 300°C (dry) / 195°C (wet) (racing brake fluid) * Super DOT4: The main difference between DOT 4 and Super DOT 4 is the dry boiling point. Normal Dot4 is >260C whilst Super DOT 4 is more like >310C

Please ignore Andy and my imaturaty :D

Oh but I did....so funny, I was hoping I'd at least have time to save me 2's and 1's to make £20 :lol:

:lol:

arrgh how do I unlock it lol....andy..not funny, but clever lol

Ill give £20 to the last person to post on this thread :lol:

Manure