G4VHD

Right date and location... Date is October 30th, halloween meet.....(one for Dabsy to star at ) Need a nice location guys..

Welcome back love.x

Welcome along mate. Im from Walsall, just down the road. A couple of nice cars you have there..

You are old Mart

E60 for me

I joined knowing nowt about cars.. And I still know nothing lol

Thats the bollox... NICE

Geeze you lot a thick lol

Welcome to the forum mate. Do you have your own business or work for someone?

Hi welcome along.. Good to have another member just down the road.

A little bit of background on the E36, which covers the '92-'99 3 series models (with some exceptions) . . . According to Bimmer Magazine, BMW E30 (and prior) engineers used complex math equations and heavy field testing to figure out required strength and durability, then they would double or triple the outcome, resulting in a fairly bulletproof car. Not so with the E36, which proved to be somewhat less reliable than the models before or after it, for two main reasons. The E36 is the very first BMW in history to be designed on CAD, and instead of extensive testing, they relied on the program to determine how robust a part or system should be. Secondly, they were engineered with recycling in mind. Which is a bit of an irony, since many owners can make these cars last upwards of 250-300 thousand miles. That isn't to say that the E36 is a shoddy Bimmer- they do more than live up to time honored BMW tradition, as the motors are quite strong, and light years ahead of the E21/E30 powerplants, along with numerous other significant improvements in comfort and performance. Still, many of them were poorly maintained and abused by previous owners, and as they're currently approaching the higher mileage threshold, you can expect to spend a little money restoring one. But by no means should you not consider buying one, because it's an absolute thrill to drive, and tends to be more reliable compared to other cars in its class, despite its shortcomings. Furthermore, it should be mentioned that while the following list may seem frightening, not all E36's will experience these issues, and since they typically are higher mileage cars nowadays, a lot of the problems have already been addressed by recalls and previous repairs. On to the list . . . . Engine Bay: -There is no doubt that the most notorious E36 issue is the water pump. 6 cylinder models up to MY ’97 were equipped with plastic impellers which would break apart and fail prematurely, stopping the coolant flow. Typical replacement interval is 60k, but they’ve been known to fail at as low as 20-30k, and often randomly. Replacement pumps employ a metal impeller. If you’re not sure that it was changed, do it anyway. Here's how. -Clutch fan can shatter and cause extensive damage to the radiator, belts and other parts in its vicinity. A common preventative measure is to remove it using a procedure known as the Fan Delete Mod, but diligent regular inspection of the blades and timely replacement should suffice. -The stock E36 radiator has plastic necks which can crack or break over time. Even if it looks fine, you may want to replace it, especially near the 100k mark, which is about the typical time when radiators fail. An alternative is to replace it with an all metal unit. The same goes for the plastic thermostat housing, aluminum replacements are available. Again, regular visual inspection is the key to avoiding costly damage. -The fuel feed hose at the engine fitting can harden over time and cause seepage at that location. BMW’s recall campaign replaced the hose and clamps. -Engine ticking can occur, particularly with older E36’s. This is characterized by a ticking sound (at idle) or the sound of marbles (under throttle) on the passenger side of the engine bay, most noticeable just after startup. It usually happens because engine oil can take some time to reach the VANOS and hydraulic lifters for lubrication. Most agree that this is normal, and is not something to worry about, unless you hear the noise all the time. In that case, the lifters may need replacement. The M50 was notorious for this lifter noise, and in severe cases BMW replaced the motor under warranty. However, on the M42, the problem is usually a failing chain tensioner, a relatively easy fix. -Rough or poor idling is generally attributed to a dirty idle control valve, or a faulty oxygen sensor. But it can also be traced to the VANOS unit, which can get stuck in the advanced position, requiring a dealership adjustment or replacement. -On some ’93 and earlier M42 engines, which includes both the E30 & E36 318is, the profile gasket can be eroded by coolant, leading to failure anywhere from 30-70k mi. This is a costly problem since the cylinder head has to come off so the gasket can be replaced with an upgraded version. Although using only BMW approved coolant can help slow down the process, it does not prevent the failure. -Some European variants of the M52 engine before MY ’98 experienced premature cylinder bore wear, resulting in a loss of power and compression. This was attributed to the sulfur in gasoline, and the only solution is to replace the damaged alloy block. If you suspect you have this issue, have a compression test done. -Drive belt idler pulley on some E36/M52 models may have been installed incorrectly during production, causing premature wear and eventual failure of the belt. This will occur during the first few hundred miles, characterized by excessive belt noise. -Throttle valve can get stuck on some models, causing uncontrollable acceleration. This affected 1996 E36’s (410,000 units), but other years may also apply. The problem lies in both the cruise control and throttle cables, where the plastic bushing on the cable end can break, allowing the cable sleeve to get stuck. BMW issued a recall campaign for this, and the solution was to install a spring steel retainer clip on the cable ends to prevent the outer sleeve from dislodging from the bushing. -E36/M44 engines may have bad ICV’s, creating a whistling noise, or causing a hard start or no start condition. The ICV was manufactured with incorrect tolerances between the rotary valve and the housing. The newer updated part number is 13 41 1 435 846. -M50 engines with VANOS produced 1/92 to 8/94 may have problems starting in cold weather below 46 degrees fahrenheit, or in high altitudes. Symptoms include a check engine light, long cranking times, black smoke from exhaust, and wet spark plugs. When this occurs, the EPROM needs to be reprogrammed by the dealer (MoDiC programming software version 5.1 or higher). Transmission & Final Drive: -A faulty guide sleeve on the 1st & 2nd gear may cause the tranny to pop out of gear. Requires disassembly of the gearbox. -On manual trannies, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether. -Squeaky clutch pedals are very common, the only solution is to replace the bushings with aftermarket parts, available from UUC Motorwerks. -Stock transmission mounts can cause excessive vibration or movement, resulting in missed shifts and engine over revving. This problem is commonly referred to as "the money shift". A number of stiffer aftermarket mounts are available at Bimmerworld. -Differential clutch pack retaining ring bolts can loosen or back out, eventually resulting in rear end failure. If you hear a ticking noise in the rear, have the final drive checked out. -Some clutches shudder when 1st or 2nd gear is engaged while the car is hot, or has been driven in stop and go traffic for long periods. This is due to a non-asbestos lining on the clutch plate. BMW apparently has a new lining available; however some new owners continue to experience this shuddering. -Flex discs (also known as Guibo couplings) can crack or shred prematurely. This coupling connects the driveline to the transmission. Characterized by a knocking under the tranny hump or a thunking noise under acceleration. Not overly difficult to replace. Antilock Braking System: -Faulty ABS pump motor relays manufactured prior to May ’96 can trigger the ABS warning light. -On rare occasions, the ABS warning light may glow briefly after turning on electrical accessories. This is a sign of a hardware problem with the ABS control module, which will need replacing. -ABS rear wheel speed sensors on ’92 E36’s had poor solder connections. If the date code is 0801 (80th day of 1991) or older, they need to be replaced. -On some ’93 318is and 325is, six bolts which fasten the bottom cover of the ABS hydraulic unit to its housing may not have been tightened properly during production. The proper torque is 15 Nm. If it’s looser than that, the hydraulic unit is probably damaged and should be replaced. Steering: -Many E36's had the lower steering column replaced as a result of corrosion; there was a recall campaign for this. -Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist. -Worn tie rod ends are often noticeable as a judder under braking. This is commonly mistaken for warped rotors as it has almost the same feel. Suspension & Undercarriage: -Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem, and can occur in as little as 20k miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion. The broken mounts eventually damage and tear the rear shock towers. Stronger E46 mounts along with Z3 reinforcement plates are recommended for replacement, and even better aftermarket parts are available from outfits such as Rogue Engineering and Ground Control. -Weak front outer ball joints are typical on the E36. A common solution is to use stronger E30 control arms with ball joints preattached, simplifying the installation. All metal ball joints (Meyle) are another alternative, but at the cost of a slightly harsher ride. -Rear inner control arm bushings are another weak spot, and should be upgraded to the tougher ’96 or newer replacements. -Under (but not limited to) heavy racing or track conditions, the rear subframe bushing mounts can tear off the body, causing extensive damage. Though rare, this typically requires welding reinforcement plates to repair the body. -Rear trailing arm bushings can wear in as little as 50k miles, although there is debate on whether this is a fault or regular maintenance issue. Symptoms of bad trailing arm bushings include side movement of the rear end under acceleration, general looseness of the rear over bumps, and abnormal tire wear. United Bimmer has a DIY for this item. In a handful of isolated cases, the threaded holes for the console's 3 mounting bolts fatigued, allowing the console portion of the arm to break away from the car body. -Some E36’s may experience unusual wear along the outer edge of the front tires. This is resolved by replacing the upper strut to hub mounting bolt with an “E36 camber correction bolt”. It’s smaller in diameter than the standard bolt, allowing for ½ degree of camber adjustment. However, the dealer may not know what you’re referring to, as the documentation on this part (#07 11 99 00 58 7) is very sketchy. Internet rumor has it that there are some sort of legal implications to this issue??? Electrical / Electronics: -DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment. BMW issued a service bulletin with an easy fix for the situation. -Earlier E36’s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU. -Corrosion on electrical harnesses, particularly 2 and 3pin sensor wires, can result in erroneous readings and trigger warning lamps. Certain plug connections have a rectangular seal which comes off unnoticed, allowing debris to enter and raise the electrical resistance in the circuit, triggering a false warning. Often these problems are misdiagnosed. Some tin plated contacts have been replaced with gold by dealerships over the years to alleviate these issues. Problems include, but not limited to, oil level/pressure warning lamps, camshaft sensor, coolant level/temp sensors, incorrect fuel gauge & speedometer readings, and brake light warnings. Contact cleaner works well as a preventative measure. -Voltage regulators typically fail on 318’s fitted with Valeo alternators. The regulator can be replaced separately. -Power windows sometimes behave erratically, moving up or down only in 1” increments. This is attributed to a magnet on the motor shaft falling out of position. The magnet can be moved back into position to correct this problem. -A failing comfort relay causes the windows and sunroof to stop working inexplicably. -In rare instances, owners have reported major wire chafing in the trunk harness, causing interior and exterior lighting failures and numerous blown fuses. Visually inspect this harness from time to time to be on the safe side. -E36's with M42 engine and manual transmissions were recalled by BMW North America for incorrect routing of the oxygen sensor wiring harness. The wire could stretch and break, disconnecting it from the DME, and triggering the check engine light. -A capacitor failure in the climate control module prevents the blower from operating while the AC compressor is engaged. The lights on the control module will also dim or go out completely. Fortunately, someone has figured out how to fix this without buying a new module. -Glass breakage sensors on stock alarms supplied by Alpine can false trigger at times when the interior cabin temperature is high. -Radio problems have been reported, most regarding dimmed or no backlighting. This is a dealer fix, but a better alternative is to replace the radio altogether. -On some E36’s, most notably the ’95 M3, a faulty circuit in the safety relay can activate the hazard flashers and unlock the doors while going over bumps in the road. -The heater element on heated seats often fails and needs replacement. -Brake light switch failures are common, although there is debate on whether this is a quality control issue. Replacement is fairly easy. Interior/Exterior Fit and Finish: -Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door. -Brake ducts on earlier models were poorly attached and can be dislodged or fall off. This also damages or breaks off the external temperature sensor, which is attached inside the duct. -Early fog lamp lenses crack due to temperature related stresses, a warranty fix. -Some dashboards bulge up at the center air vent. Inadequate adhesion causes delamination problems on door panels. Midrange and tweeter speaker trim cracks are also common. -Glove boxes can sag over time, there is a fix for this problem. -Rear door noises on ’96 and later saloons are attributed to the type of rubber used on the door trim seals. -Sunroof and rear parcel shelf rattles are common. Replacing certain parts in the sunroof mechanism fixes the noise, and you can support the rear deck with some foam stuffing to eliminate the rattle. -Plastic headlight covers dull or get foggy. A number of compounds and polishes have been known to yield good results, but ultimately they ought to be replaced with the European glass units.

Rear Shock top mounts A common wear item. check by lifting car up and down via rear arch and try and spot any play Vanos An obvious one. M3 Evo’s have twin vanos, problems usually show up around 45,000 Miles, but cars advertised as having a new one are not always a good thing. The usual issue is leaking solenoid seals, a good independent dealer can replace these for circa £250 as opposed to going to a main “stealership” where more than likely you will get stung for ~£1600 for a complete new Vanos unit being fitted. Exhaust System The rear silencer box is over £500 for the OEM part and Catalytic converters are very expensive. They rust at the front and rear, where they mount to the exhaust pipe. Check for blowing and any visible signs of corrosion. A definite haggling point if there is a problem spotted. Tyres For a good set of Michelin Pilot Sports as an example (OEM fitted tyre) you are looking at £600 for a set of four. If the tyres are borderline (say 2mm on each) use this as a point to knockdown the cars price with as having to buy 4 tyres is not a nice post purchase present! Bodywork Side Mouldings (The M Sport mouldings have metal inside them. These rust and the clips break off so ensure all the mouldings are in good order and closely follow the contours of the car and are not peeling away A/C Ensure the ac blows cold as the AC system is expensive to fix if there’s a leak in the condenser unit. Alternatively if it needs regassing factor this into your purchase. Window Rubbers A simple job, but the side rubbers by the rear windows perish meaning the car may have had water leakage (check interior for any damage) and also making the car look old! Electric Windows The window motors on these cars seem in my experience to be often quite troublesome. Check the windows go up all the way automatically using the one touch function and also check they go down smoothly and on each time you press the button. Do this for both windows. A new motor is circa £160 and if the car has a full closure alarm that includes the windows in its locking sequence it will not work correctly! Keys Most M3's from 94 onwards have chip encoded keys (EWS) that have to be programmed to match the car. (so you can’t just get a key cut) So if you only have one key then you need to factor the cost in to get the dealership to cut and code you a spare. You need 2 keys and 2 alarm fobs as if you only have one and it breaks or gets lost you will have to spend a lotta money to regain your car! Not to mention the inconvenience if it happens out of town etc Alloys If the car has diamond cut alloys most reburbishers will not touch them, as the laquer comes straight off again, and also if they are damaged a new OEM wheel is expensive! Front End Check if the bonnet catches are brand new looking as these often get replaced on front end accidents. Check inner wing seam welds which should be neat and match each other and make sure all the original bmw labels are on the front slam panel and inner wings. Make sure the bumpers line up because after shunts they can be loose or uneven front and rear). Also check all door shut lines to ensure they close flush to the car all the way round. Check the bonnet gaps at either side are even and not overly large. Ensure you check the front wheel arches for rust or repair as E36 front wings are prone to rust due to an inner lip design flaw (it collects water leading to rust if not looked after) *both my E36s had rust on the front wings and were 'mint cars'* Budget £350~ for a pair of OEM wings (stay away from pattern parts is my advice) and £250 for a decent spray job if they do have rust... but use this as a possible warning sign there may be more rust on the car that has been covered up or filled/painted in the past. Use extra caution when examining the rest of the car. Check thoroughly around the windscreen and where it meets the roof for signs of rust or repair. Wheel bearings Not really possible to check unless the car is in the air but listen for any strange noises when driving and for any rumblings or hummings! Rear End Check both rear wheel arches for rust or signs of repair. Also open the boot, remove the lining and check very carefully for any signs of rusting on the rear panel (directly behind the number plate and lights but inside the car). Check externally under the rear lights for signs of rust or recent signs of paint. Again, rear panel rust hidden under the boot carpet is something I have encountered on quite a few E36's. RTABS (Rear trailing arm bushes) and RSMs (rear shock mounts) This is not an easy one to test without getting very obsessive during the viewing...however on the road. All will become clear if you get to test drive it yourself. If the car feels wallowy, or unstable/nervous during mid to high speed driving and cornering.. it is highly possible that one or both of the above items needs replacing. Rogue RSMs run to about £100 iirc and are an easyish job to fit (budget 2-3 hours labour)...RTABS...are a major PITA to fit without the correct BMW special tool to remove the old ones. In fact, from the grief I had doing mine (and having to buy a reciprocating saw to cut the old bushes out) I would say get them done at a good independant garage. Approx £60 a pair for OEM or £50 for powerflex (a better option if you dont mind slightly harder ride). The suspension needs to be correctly aligned after this job has been undertaken. Engine Bay Pop open the bonnet and take a good long look at the engine.. Is it sparkling clean? Looks almost brand new even? if so, question it!! Either the owner is an obsessive detailer! (can you picture this?) or the engine has been steam cleaned recently. This could be innocent or could be to hide a multitude of oil leaks or other problems. Is the rest of the car as clean as the engine bay? if not...walk away unless you are convinced it is genuine. Start the engine up but make sure it is cold to the touch before you do. If it is hot like it has just been for a run, ask why. A hot engine sounds different to the same one from cold. Either wait to test it for an hour or so till it cools, or recheck from cold if you return to buy (before payment say) On the E36 M3 3 litre or 3.2 , the vanos should be quiet (no marbles in a tin can noises) but you will most likely hear a ticking from the hydraulic tappets on many of these cars. This is fine and not a problem. Rev the engine and check for puffs of blue smoke out the back. If there is its likely the oil stem seals (or rings) are problematic. Get further investigation done by someone who knows or if in real doubt arrange a leakdown test at a local garage. If the owner won't have it, walk away. He's obviously got something to hide Manual Transmission On your test drive, plant your foot in a SAFE place to do so and check the clutch is not slipping...best thing to do here is get up to a reasonable speed say on dual carriageway, put the car in 4th and floor it. if the revs and speedo don't match and the engine seems to be working harder than the car is moving forward, clutch could be on the way out. Not a massive job to replace but factor it in on the price. gearbox should be smooth through all 5 or 6 gears. Play in the gearstick could indicate worn linkage assembly. If the car has an SMG gearbox Check the oil levels for the hydraulic system, as if its low it will pop out of gear and can suddenly select neutral when your driving. It will also give the occasional error code on the dash. When it’s warmed up get the car in sports mode (not manual) and drive it hard through the gear range. Ensure the clutch doesn’t slip throughout this test. During the test drive No matter what. Ensure that the radio/cd unit is turned off and during the drive wind both front windows down and go through a range of speeds and directional changes with the car (brake,reverse, hard turn etc) and listen for any dodgy noises. A car stereo and windows up can mask even the most nasty noise that suddenly becomes apparent when you are cruising in the sunshine with the windows down! Service History and Mileage These cars tend to handle the miles very well, provided they are cared for and serviced correctly. Always always get an HPi check done on a mid to high cost car. Its not worth the risk for £30. Check the mileage on the dash and service history stamps (or MOTs if no SH) tally up. If your in doubt about the authenticity of the service stamps, make a mental note of say a main dealer while sneaking through the service book and phone them up and ask them if they have a record of the car and its mileage!! You would need the Vin and reg for your "HPI check" for this! Cheeky but totally legit if your suspect. Check the Vin Tag under the bonnet with the logbook Vin Number and also check the engine number matches the one in the log book too. Also, check seat bolster wear on the drivers seat closely...is it heavy? worn leather or foam padding? Is the steering wheel very shiny? are the pedal rubbers worn down to no grip? if so, does this match the mileage the car is being sold with? If not, investigate further. Then walk away Again, if your in doubt about a car you are viewing…..WALK AWAY!! There are plenty of good cars out there, that will give years of trouble free service. Don’t get carried away “in the moment” and buy your banks cards worst nightmare 

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Found on Snypa's Facebook wall so won't take all the credit.. I'll give 3 rep points to who works out how this works first... I do know the answer, took me 3 tries Click Here

Its a tad bit immature, especially by a bus full of people. I will admit, i drive like a ##### in "safe" places where i can't harm anyone else. But never round the public.

Crazy Mo Fo's.

3 !Removed! a day kind of guy...sounds like me

Have you got an after market radio/amp fitted?

I don't think you can mate, as it turns off when the ignition turns fully off, when you open the door.

I agree with Snypa, I had a Saab for a few weeks in the snow...was !Removed!. The 46 never gave me a problem, showed some astras and corsas up on a steep hill one night, they were struggling, I just drove straight past

Not sure mate, but been as you have quite a large engine, i would say no problem.

Its his kid!!!???

Im going.. Info here http://www.necclassicmotorshow.com/ Topic pinned for a bit innit star

Not sure about the e36, but I know they aint interchangeable on the e46... I imagine the same.