Greydog

Morning Peter Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum First point to make is as your car is X drive it is important that all 4 tyres are the same make and rolling radius. If the front and rear tyres or across axels vary by 5 or 6mm in diameter it will cause Transfer case wind up and possible problems. Make a chalk mark on the bottom of a rear tyre and same on the front on a flat surface roll the car forward 2 or 3 wheel revolutions both chalk marks should still be pointing in the same place. If they aren't driving any distances is a risk of Transfer case damage. That's the possible bad news out of the way 😁Changing to Non Run Flat tyres is going to allow a greater choice and price of tyre, the X5 with staggered rims has had no spare for years particularly if it was a 7 seat option. BMW supplied a small compressor and tyre Goo. I upgraded the Tyre Goo to a Plug Kit in around 2004/5. I have owned and run X5's since 2002 as one of my hobbies is shooting my X5's get properly Off Road where some ruts and holes may swallow anything smaller 😅 In all that time I have used the compressor and repair kit 3 or 4 times happy to tempt fate and say only once on my own tyre the other times friends and neighbours. With my own repair it was obvious just looking around the tyre a screw sting out was easy to see. Pull it out push in the plug kit and cut it off level with the tread connect the compressor and pump up the tyre, the repair worked until all 4 tyres were changed. I have recently changed the compressor for a combined Jack/Compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter (make sure the engine is running) and make sure you have a good wheel wrench. Good Luck Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Not sure where you are but if your in the UK you could talk to ECU Testing or Cartronix to see if they could help. I take it you have searched for a second user Speedo or Binnacle ? That gives 2 possibilities strip it to get the part you want or swap the lot, you may need a Diagnostic like BMW 1.4.0 to register a changed unit and correct mileages Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings I would guess that if your seeing 10v at the signal wire then either (a) the sensor is toast (b) there is a short in the wiring loom to test at the DME you will either need to trace the signal wire back or get your hands on a Pin Out for the DME. I have seen corroded pins at the DME but that normally shows as no signal I assume you have checked the Crank sensor ? What Diagnostic system are you using Dave

Morning Firat My thoughts are that the trans codes are communication errors triggered by low voltage and or Can Bus issues. How is the transmission running ? Is it sticking in gears ? Are changes jerky ? Any other trans issues leaks etc when was it serviced ? My actions would be to start with a Fully Charged Battery, clear down the codes check the battery voltage was still at full charge 12.5v minimum Then put a clamp ammeter on the main starter feed and start the car measure the amps drawn stop the engine and check battery voltage. As I have BMW ISTA/INPA (I also have iCarsoft BMW V2) I would then run a diagnostic and record all faults I suspect the Trans Faults are not all that are there. Remember a Fault Code very often is a symptom not the cause Good Luck Dave

Happy Christmas Firat Welcome to the Forum First thoughts a Starter or Alternator issue, here are my thoughts Battery Voltage at rest should be at least 12.5v (lower shows a drain or battery issue) with the engine running 14.6+v (lower would indicate slow or low charge from the Alternator) The fact the car isn't going to sleep (gear indicator still lit) There was an issue with Magneti Marelli starter around your vintage which caused huge Amp draw at start and eventually killed batteries (1) Fully Charge the battery at the charge points under the bonnet as said should read 12.5+v (2) Needs investigation could be a Can Bus issue (3) Check amperage at start with a clamp Ammeter I saw one that pulled 700+amps Last but not least get a full Diagnostic scan done using a BMW capable programme best is BMW ISTA/INPA then Foxwell, Autologic iCarsoft or similar. My reasoning here is I can't believe there are not hidden faults particularly as there is a possible can bus issue We know what you want for Christmas 😅 Have a good one Dave

Hi 90 k is not a lot of miles when was it last serviced ? Are there any leaks anywhere? So the vapour does it smell ? Sweet smell (could be anti freeze/coolant) has it needed topping up? Oil smell is obvious Next check and test and change if required the Oil Temp sensor I believe it's on the Filter body on your model. See if that stabilises the Gauge Dave

Morning Nathan Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Sounds like a stuck lifter Dave

Morning Andrei Welcome tot the Forum and Seasons Greetings If oil temp/pressure is fluctuating and from the video I would guess there is a top end wear problem Valve guide seals or more. What mileage has the car covered what is it's service history Jenksey on here used a Valve stem seal additive with some success but if things are split or really worn it would struggle to be effective. Good Luck Dave

Hi Martin Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings A very difficult problem to diagnose with such limited information but here goes. As you say the consumption/vacuum gauge drops when it occurs my guess would be more Engine than Transmission. I would start at the front of the engine and check belts, pulley's and tensioners. Look for any fraying or side wear on belts. I would also carry out a Diagnostic check as I do have my own copy of BMW ISTA/INPA no injector faults logged and make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are in good condition, check fuel pressure etc Good Luck Dave

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings If you have the warning light have you (a) changed the Battery in the Fob ? (b) Tried a different Fob (you should have 2) They are the obvious first thoughts/action If that doesn't work then a proper Diagnostic scan is needed with a BMW capable programme Dave

Morning Mike Fuse box should be near side of the engine bay against the bulkhead so easy to get at with a couple of main loom penetrations into the Cabin. Never liked hacking into cables with splices etc 😁 Dave

Morning Shaun Welcome to the Forum We love Christmas puzzles 😁 but a few more clues may help us the code poo87 just tells us you have a fuel pressure issue ?? What engine is it ? When did it have its last service (not just an oil change) ? Possible causes could be, (1) Faulty Fuel pump or Fuel pump relay (2) Clogged/Blocked Fuel Filter (3) Faulty fuel pressure sensor (4) Faulty fuel pressure regulator (5) Leaking or damaged fuel lines (6) Air/vacuum leaks on the inlet side Those are just the simple ones that spring to mind, the code you have is a Generic code a Diagnostic scan with a BMW capable scanner may give more information. Always remember any code should be treated as a symptom not always the answer Hope this helps Have a Great Christmas Dave

Hi James You could try companies such as ECU Testing or Cartronix another alternative may be get the Part number and search Dismantlers like Quarry Motors Before replacing it though some Talc puffed along and around the boot seals then a wash may give clues to where it is getting in, but more important check the boot floor seal/drain is not blocked. If you have a sun roof make sure the drains are clear Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Not looked at a 2 series but with a friend of our son we took a piggyback feed with it's own fuse from the fuse box Take a look at your fuse box look for something like seat adjustment, don't know what you want to power but we used a 10 amp as the feed Good Luck Dave

Hi Rob Have you looked at the 3 series I am sure they can't be that different, if there is nothing there then it's the after market suppliers !! Dave