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Greydog

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Greydog last won the day on October 31

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  • First Name
    Dave
  • BMW Model
    X5 E70 3.0d
  • BMW Year
    2009

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  1. As I understand the wiring diagrams and operation Item 9 on the thermostat housing is the sensor which sends its signal to the ECU for interpretation with information from the map sensor. Information from item 12 (1st drawing ) is also used to provide average temp across the cooling system. As far as I am aware the Thermostst is independent of the sensors and operated by expanding wax material internally
  2. Errr not clear here Donald Plastic "L's" with short rubber hoses ??? Distilled water/Ionised water should only be used in an old style lead acid battery. The Rad and engine coolining system should be filled with the correct coolant mix to prevent cavitation and the danger of freezing in low temps. Coolant should be part of the cars regular maintenance and changed every 3 years or so. At that time all hoses and connectors should be inspected and changed where necessary to keep everything in tip top condition. Changing parts can cause as many problems as you may think your solving
  3. What's Brazillian for BIG THUD 🤣🤣 Dave
  4. Morning Andrew I normally disconnect the Neg lead only, some folks disconnect both a few even say disconnect both and touch them together. Goes without saying both sensor plugs need to be checked and a squirt of contact cleaner applied never hurts 😅 Dave
  5. Not sure what engine your running but there should be a Temp sensor in the Hose from the Rad to the water pump then there should be a Temp sensor in the housing for the Thermostat Both are shown in realoem for the 3.5 V8 I thought the V8 was the only one with dual use sensor on the Thermostat housing but stand to be corrected Dave
  6. Back to my daughters method she told me "you don't need that stuff there is a Thud when your to close 😅" Dave
  7. Morning BMW use 2 temp sensors one is with the thermostat the other is at the bottom hose to the rad (check realoem for your model) the car uses an average reading across the two to decide if things are OK Check wiring to both it could be that as there is no signal from your new thermostat it's confused things Dave
  8. Hi Kerry Welcome to the Forum If you are absolutley certain the physical timing is OK then this could well be a sensor issue crankshaft and camshaft sensors are not communicating The first 2 codes are Camshaft related the 3rd is Misfire Cylinder 6. P0016 confirms there is an issue with Crankshaft/Camshaft communication Just because they are new doesn't mean they are right do you have the old sensors to try ? Full diagnostic with a good BMW friendly reader would/should tell more Dave
  9. Morning Vic If the battery was new I believe it should recharge from the cars system so thats odd, unless it needs registering to allow recharging of course, or the telematic unit is toast. If changing the Telematic unit try and source the same part number to avoid any registering issues Good Luck Dave
  10. The fellow selling them just needs to check the back of the spokes as Stu says he should find it there Dave
  11. Ear Defenders 😅 Could well be a front sensor masked a little or possibly the sounder ? you getting nothing from 1.4.0 ? Dave
  12. Good to have you back Dimitris I would think there will be an internal fault recorded but if the Thermostat is working it will simply open earlier so I would think gauge wise you will see nothing unusual Dave
  13. Hi Richard I have used both staggered and square set ups. You can check wheel sizes using www.realoem.com if you are making a wheel/tyre purchase make sure that the wheels have the correct offset so they clear the brake calipers also make sure they are suitable for your car From the weather forecast it could be the first time in a long time it's been cold enough to need Winters unless like I used to you need to travel in Europe where Winters are mandatory Dave
  14. Not sure what you have done or are asking here Donald First the Boot/Trunk can be opened manually using the Master Key. The Battery is in the Trunk/Boot so Neg terminal off first. If you realeased the Red Lead under the Hood/Bonnet you only isolated part of the cars electrical system? (This is also the Charging Point so if charging the battery this is where to connect) Sensors, before changing them make sure they actually need changing test them (Google for parameters) also check whether they need coding to the car to ensure they are going to work correctly. Check all fuses are intact if all OK then a Diagnostic scan should show where the Issues are Dave
  15. Morning Donald I think you need to read very carefully just what your agreement/policy with Beacon says. Personally I don't need or want an algorithm in an Insurance suppliers computer deciding how and where I can drive. It quite probably decided you were to close to an allocated limit and shut down to prevent you exceeding it ??? Dave
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