Greydog

Morning Malcolm Welcome to the Forum First check is does your car have VDC suspension ? Next check what was its year of manufacture to check model E70 F15 or F85 ? All 3 are possible for a 2014 registered car. If E70 the top mount has for want of a better description a couple of spongy washer like pads, they just fail and you get a knock sometimes when turning easy check under the centre nut of the top mount there is a big washer under that is the sponge/fibre pad easy to see and not hard to change. F15 and F85 don't have them but worth checking the top mount anyway If it's a rotating knock also worth checking the front drive shaft Good Luck tasty motor by the way Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Did a few of these on 2000 to 2005 V8's (including my own 4.6is) but not seen one for a long time from memory the only successful fix was to replace the sealing rings and in one case the aluminium pipe work as it had been damaged previously. I have not heard of a "quick fix" I am afraid I would start with a search of realoem and study the drawings carefully, also if you can get access to ISTA or INPA check out the WIS (Workshop Information System) Good Luck Dave

Morning James Use a BMW Vin decoder to get the original build sheet to see what your model was ordered with is a starting point Dave

Morning Paul I had a similar conversation with our local Dealer a few months ago after receiving a Recall Letter edged in RED and contacting them to be told we will book you in but it may be a while as we are waiting for parts ?? It actually took 2 months (EGR recall) Unfortunately for the Dealers while they are aware of a Recall Program they don't control the stock to carry out the work or the sending of the letters bonkers really, they are also expected to fit in the work and not disrupt their normal service work. I also read recently (last week) that a Dutch company that supplies Micro processors to a huge number of Car makers in Europe and else where is closed at the moment due to US action after discovering they are actually owned by a Chinese consortium. A lot more shortages to come me thinks Dave

Hi John I thought the active grill shutter system was there to improve aerodynamic efficiency but as I have not seen one to play with I could well be wrong 😁 If you have no warnings showing and haven't noticed an increase in Fuel use the only way to check will be by diagnostics Dealer costs will be high but you should find a BMW Specialist near you who has BMW ISTA and can run a check at a reasonable cost. If repairs are needed sensors, actuators or Control unit my advice would be get the part numbers and search the internet for the best supply options Dave

Hi Andrew If the oil pipe seals being replaced didn't fix the issue and you have no other leaks in the area then the next step would have to be remove the Turbo and separate the flange where you are seeing the oil. I would expect to see evidence of the leak there. Good Luck Dave

The plot thickens I have changed 2 Turbo's on friends cars but in both cases they were refurbished Turbo's brought as the OEM ones were beyond help. And were fairly straight forward (grazed knuckles) to change. Could the leak you spotted be coming from the Oil Feed pipe ? Dave

Hi Andrew Are you using www.realoem.com ? The drawing looks like it or is that from the Internet? Is the turbo fitted OEM ? Dave

Morning Anthony Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the Electrical connector and it's sealing ring if they are not seated correctly or the "O" ring is damaged they can leak, a lot. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Unfortunately the only solution is to strip it all down and then find it is a £0.50p gasket (hopefully) Good Luck Dave

Morning Vionea Welcome to the Forum Not sure if you want to replace what you have or make your own ?? Brand new from BMW in primer these only cost around £10 each or if you get the part number from www.realoem.com then search the Internet I dare say there are more than a few out there Good Luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum I find it hard to believe that a Main Dealer responded in that way, the car records ALL faults and their equipment should show it as a fault Present or fault Not Present? You don't want to compromise your Warranty however you could try a different Main Dealer. I would write to the Dealer MD a copy to the service manager and BMW UK Customer Service stating the facts of their investigation and efforts to fix it that have failed, point out that the car in it's current state is "unsuitable for purpose" and ask for a detailed course of action and time scale to resolve the issue. Good Luck Dave

Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

Morning Andrew Someone with the software can trigger a Regen if your isn't doing it it's self. For the regen cycle to trigger you need at least a half hour forty minutes with revs at 2500 or above you also need all the Glo plugs working as BMW use them to boost cylinder temps. Now the actual DPF, depending on DPF age and the type of journeys undertaken we are back to Software to measure the ASH content % as this is the bit that tells the car to show the warning and eventually go into limp mode. Solutions (1) take it for a good trash (Italian Tune Up) see if that works (2) Software there are several Diagnostic systems now capable but as I have INPA/ISTA that is my weapon of choice (3) Last is the Garage many will recommend NEW DPF ££ some will recommend DPF cleaning ££ (friend of our sons had this done seems to work) Both the last options will need software capable of resetting all the DPF adaptions to factory settings Dave

Morning Mick Welcome to the Forum First question why not OEM running boards ? You would then know they will fit here are the OEM parts and fixings If you take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search Body section Once you have all the correct part numbers you can search the Internet for the best supply (remember you need Left and Right parts) You should find parts from BMW Breakers as well as contacting BMW Dealers to see what their prices are like (sometimes a pleasant surprise) Dave

Talked to my Brother Inlaw he is on his 6th 5 series estate he said the first 3 (HID) he would switch over as it was so simple, then apparently with the 4th it was a real faff so he never bothered the last two are LED and he has never had an issue and he does most of his mileage in the France Belgium Netherlands Germany and Poland Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Asif Welcome to the Forum First check to find out where the smoke is coming from, once your sure then make a decision on whether you can (a) DIY or (b) pay a garage. If it is the Garage route then an Internet search for BMW Specialists (there is a Register of BMW Specialists) should bring up a couple at least who are not to far from you. Then talk to them about costs etc Good luck Dave

Hi Tomy Welcome to the Forum When I rebuilt my E53 4.6is I rebuilt the Vanos system from memory the cost was around £65 for all seals and O rings which turned out to be Febi items So are the prices you have for a rebuild kit or a refurbed Vanos ? Dave

Morning Kevin I know that there was an adjustment lever for HID's but I thought I read that LED's had a Flat pattern that cant be adjusted. Does your Local BMW Dealer know more I wonder worth asking As an aside my Brother inlaw has a 5 series Estate and does many miles on the other side of the Channel and I don't recall him doing anything, I will have to ask the question Dave

Morning Paul There are a few others but these guys are very quick (72hr turnaround) in most cases used them several times for ABS units and a couple of times for ECU repairs big advantage with ECU's FRM etc no recoding needed I have also used Cartronix in Surrey but they were quite expensive and slow, end product was great though (upgraded Radio unit in an E53) Good Luck Dave

Hi Paul Just contact https://www.ecutesting.com they are in Derbyshire they offer and excellent service and I have used them several times they also Warranty all their work Worth contacting them and talking through what you need Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum I take it your previous phone was iphone which it seemed worked OK ? If so as nothing else but the phone has changed this is more a question for Apple than BMW Make sure all previous registrations are cleared on the car then re-register your phone if that doesn't work ask one of the Apple Forums Sorry best I can think of for an Old Android Bloke Dave

Hi Rick If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model Then search the Audio section you will find small exploded drawings showing where speakers are for each system. Get the part numbers for the HK stuff then search the internet for the best prices and supply. You could get all the HK stuff and AMP and swap them yourself make sure the under seat speakers are there and working then add a sub if you need it May not be as costly as you think Dave

Morning Rick Harman Kardon were the top of the OEM line so a starting point is use a Vin Decoder to check what was fitted at build S676A is Hifi S674A is Harman Kardon Next check that all speakers are working including the central base speakers under the front seats. It isn't unusual for door speakers to fail particularly if there has been water ingress. If everything is working but is standard Hifi an upgrade to HK components may give what you want (Speakers Amp etc) If it is already HK then your in the hands of the aftermarket Audio specialists Hope this Helps Dave

OK checked ISTA WIS (Workshop Information System) and spoke with an ex neighbour who works for BMW ISTA first there is nothing to indicate the filter housing should be changed at intervals. There is a Note to say the filter should be inserted into the filter body then the housing screwed by hand into position. If the filter is inserted in the housing there is a danger it can be cross threaded and the housing damaged do not overtighten My ex neighbour says it was a common mistake putting the filter into the housing and tightening that is where they were cracked Dave