Greydog

Hi Stephen All fuses checked ? As you have had a recall best talk to them when your there Dealers normally run a Diagnostic check during a recall and advise of any updates needed Good Luck getting it working hopefully with minimum cost 😁 Dave

Morning Jordan Welcome to the Forum The code your seeing is in my experience normally tied to 3 suspects (1) Battery, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good health. Engine off test the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet anything below 12.5v would indicate a problem. Engine running test again you should see 14.5+v (alternator good) (2) Steering angle sensor, these don't often fail but not impossible, driving forwards turning lock to lock normally resets and clears it. (3) Transfer case fault, Again normally robust but the poor old Gearbox and Transfer case are often ignored (even by Dealers) and not serviced. So check for any signs of leaks changing the Transfer case fluid is straight forward just make sure it is correct for your car (tip always make sure you can undo the Fill plug before draining, seen two where folks drained and then couldn't refill). Also when stopping listen for clicking noises under the drivers seat in some cases the nylon activation gear can wear/strip and may need replacing (plenty of "how too's" on the net So I would start with simple stuff, Battery first then clear the codes and check again you may need the help of someone with a Diagnostic program to clear faults i the memory. If the Battery is the culprit then just changing it should clear the faults and lock to lock reset the steering angle sensor. Fingers crossed its a cheap easy fix Dave

Morning Mathew I guess we know what you would like for Christmas 😅 I would contact the Kit makers to either speak with them or get some Idea of what is involved. If your taking off Door Cards etc to connect the lighting I would do the speakers (so you don't end up with that wish I had done that feeling) You will need access to a Diagnostic program that has programming capability so that it is registered on your iDrive then if you have Carplay I would think it should work from your phone Good Luck Dave

Morning Stephen Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your asking here ? I was not aware your model had the function try using a BMW Vin decoder to get the original build sheet for your car that may help Dave

Morning Mathew Only if your car is Left Hand Drive 😅 Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Bit early but I will get my thinking hat on ( I am a retired Engineer born with a need to know how and why things work) , sadly it seems you have a Tech working on your car not a Mechanic. The difference is a Tech will believe the Codes shown and change parts as indicated, a good Mechanic will see codes as a symptom and look for the cause. Code 24CF00 is related to the MAF the question is what triggered it ? Was it an air leak have all the Air and Vac lines been checked ? You say the swirl flaps have been removed? when the Inlet manifold was replaced were the gaskets renewed? You also say the EGR was replaced under Recall was it the EGR or the EGR Cooler ? The next 2 Codes are related to exhaust pressure 28EC00 is the pressure sensor upstream of the Turbo 2AB600 is exhaust back pressure. Both sensors can be tested if they are OK then I would look for a blockage in the exhaust/EGR recirculation system (EGR hoses can get clogged with soot) Just because your running at motorway speed doesn't mean a Regen cycle has been triggered. The exhaust has to reach certain temperatures for a regen cycle to occur it can be triggered by software. If you have a Regen cycle the re will be a noticeable amount of smoke and you will notice the fan running more Sorry if this raises more questions than answers, but from your description the Garage you are using seem to be plugging in Diagnostics and changing parts not testing and checking for the cause. This is why I DIY my own repairs unless it's something that needs heavy Garage equipment Dave

Hi James I have talked to a friend in BMW who tells me the Ambient Lighting package did not become available until 2018 for 3 series models so the probability is yours does not have it. It can be retrofitted and coded to your car, but I have no idea how much work that would entail Good Luck Dave

Hi Glenn I tend to use Quarry Motors they are very knowledgeable and helpful (also been around for years) try Googling BMW Breakers that may work If not put the part number into an Ebay Search see if that brings results Good Hunting Dave

Hi Ian A good Auto Electrician would I suspect have Diagnostic software or search the Register of BMW Specialists there should be a few close to you and they will have all the Tech, I bet a few phone calls will get what you need Dave

Hi Glen The best option would be an Internet search for a replacement seat one of our sons has a friend who has a 1 series early this year he brought a Complete interior Black Leather seats front and rear + trim and Door cards for £250 delivered. I would start with Realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then get the part number you need. Then contact the Register of BMW Dismantlers to see if they can help then Ebay With luck it will be a straight seat swap at worst you will have to strip the seat to get to the motor you need. Good Luck Dave

Posted in 2 places answer in the main Forum

Morning Ian The SOS system connects through the Telematics to the BMW Servers, causes can be as you say Battery but can also be a Software issue or glitch a Hardware issue (SOS button or sensor faults) If it is important to you then a Diagnostic will tell more if not you need someone with access to Bimmerlink Carly or BMW ISTA/INPA who will be able to code it out Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Low profile tyres will always transmit more Vibration/Noise however, have the wheel bearings been checked? Has the rear axle and drive shafts been checked and last has the propshaft been checked ? Your description of a Drone/Rumble is what points me in that direction Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum The system in your car is made up from 3 main parts (1) the Display Screen (2) The Rotary control on the Centre Console (3) The CiC unit (behind the dash) these are linked normally through the FRM (Footwell Module) A Diagnostic scan will show where the issue is As the Display is working logic points towards the other two. You will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic package to (a) confirm which one (b) make sure any replacement is coded to the car and works correctly If the Rotary Controller is OK and the issue is with the CiC you have a few options (1) New CiC £££££££ (2) Source a replacement used CiC (make sure the part numbers are the same) also be aware that it may need coding to your car (3) Last option is change the screen for one of the Android/Carplay options that are available they do work well Good luck Dave

Hi Ali Your car has an Auxiliary pump when the car is cold and the thermostat closed water circulates through the cylinder head (hottest first) the Aux pump pushes that water through the heater system to give a warm cabin. It can take 15/20 miles for the engine to reach full operating temp. I use BMW ISTA/INPA which gives me Dealer level access plus it comes with WIS (Workshop Information system) and Wiring Diagrams so for me the best, today there are several on the market that are BMW capable iCarsoft, Foxwell plus a few subscription apps like Carly. Many will read fault codes and reset them but will not have service functions that allow Regen start (forced regen) DPF condition etc Just make sure whatever you buy has the service functions Dave

Hi Mike Welcome to the Forum Test the battery output at the under bonnet charging points anything below 12.5v indicates a discharged or dying battery. Engine running voltage should be 14.5+ When voltages are low your beemer diverts all power to the starter triggering all sorts of spurious faults and warnings My money is on a battery issue, a Diagnostic scan should confirm if it is anything else Dave

Hi Ali The emissions control system is kept clean by the action of the engine it's self. Two critical elements are filtered out Soot and Ash among many other particles, the soot is the one that clogs the EGR but is normally a sign of short journeys where the engine doesn't achieve full working temperature (note this is hotter than the heater starting to blow warm air) When full working temp is reached the car can measure soot content and if required begin a Regeneration cycle (note after around 2006 the engine management uses the Glo plugs to achieve regen temps, if they are not working no regen cycle) Once the regen is complete any resulting Ash is held in the DPF. After 2006 the swirl flap design was improved and I have not heard of a fail or any falling into the engine Considering the increase in the MOT and the likelihood of a fail if the examiner suspects any of the emission controls are tampered with or missing my personal preference is keep it as it was designed. My X5 3.0d 2009 has covered 135k and is as OEM build around town I get around 450 miles to a tank on Motorway trips closer to 600 miles to a tank. I change oil and filters at 5k with good quality BMW LLo4 compliant oil The recent recall was for the EGR Cooler mine was tested and passed Good luck with the hunt for someone to do the work in or near Billericay I am in sunny Sussex so not much local knowledge Dave

Try checking the USA sites due to the differing legal position there (Class Legal Actions) Manufacturers often make the decision to either re-engineer or recall at their expence. If they have called a recall there it would make it hard to deny it here also if it is becoming common Rip Off Britain is also an option Dave

Hi Paul If all the wiring is in place it's just a case of activation apparently you could have Kidney Grill lights as well So to activate it you may need the help of someone with ISTA-P my first port of call would be check the Register of BMW Specialists online and talk to a few close by they tend to be more customer friendly than BMW Dealers and around half the cost Hope it's all there Enjoy your Christmas Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum If your Headlamps are Halogen H7 then to stay legal they should be replaced like for like if you go to LED you risk MOT failure Osram Night breaker 220 are good (I have them in my X5) and I have read good reports about Philips Racing. My Osrams cost about £30 a pair Dave

Morning Paul Check the Upper timing case gaskets they are steel and rarely give problems but worth a check the solenoid valves in them which have "O" ring seals (more likely) Next Rocker cover gaskets these are a common culprit, good clean up then run the engine and look carefully for signs Good Luck Dave

Morning Paul Just checking on ISTA wiring Diagram for your model Inside the door there should be a twisted pair of wires Grey with a yellow trace and Brown with a yellow trace (earth) (same on all doors) They run back to the BCP (basic central platform) When checking there are Grey with Mauve trace and Yellow with Grey trace they are Can Bus feeds to the Door lock mechanism (it also shows feeds to the door mirror Ground lights) Knowing BMW they may earth through the door lock so it may be just a single wire Grey with yellow trace If the wiring is there it could simply need activation through the BCP ? That may require a piece of software downloaded from BMW. It would also make there Email at best confusing The plot thickens Good Luck Dave

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum My neighbours Mini has a switch to turn off the Stop Start function Dave

Hi Ali Welcome to the Forum I hear a lot of talk about DPF/EGR issues in my experience normally from folks who drive the car almost into the ground normally short journeys so service intervals are extended (if it gets one) and then complain about the DPF/EGR. The others who talk about DPF/EGR issues are often selling a service that will hollow out your DPF then with some software tweaks get it running without warning lights. They don't tell you that if an MOT inspector picks it up it is an instant fail On the other hand my own X5 3.0d has just past 135k with no issues my brother inlaws 540d estate has just passed 200k with no issues (both cars had the EGR recall early this year) Brother inlaws car is Chipped and way over 400hp and driven hard (which these engines love) So reliability for the DPF and EGR will depend on what sort of driving you do and regular annual service as a minimum (I change oil at 5k intervals), if you do a lot of local short journeys at least once a month give it a good run at Motorway speeds Dave

Hi Paul There is me thinking that the M135 is pretty much top of the range with the 1 series why wasn't it fitted ?? Especially as the car has the rest of the so called "welcome lighting" package just doesn't make any sense to me Is there a small clear lens under the door handle ? Dave