Greydog

Hi Joe I change Vac lines and breather hoses as a service item on our cars 2 X5's and Wife's Subaru Outback all are serviced annually to manufacturers standards by myself (son says I have OCD 🤣) any rubber hoses showing signs of degrading are changed as a matter of course so I wouldn't worry as long as its changed. Oil and rubber are not best friends and as your potential purchase is around 7 years old it is quite likely near end of service. Subaru is a 2004 3.0 has 164k on the clock and runs like a Swiss watch BMW E53 4.6is 137k like the Subaru runs really well BMW E70 3.0d 138k as the other two. Dave

Morning David Worth a search for any acoustic specialists who may help, for what it is worth my E70 was in for an EGR recall last year and I was given an Electric X1 as a courtesy car, a nice car very quiet apart from tyre/road noise which was a surprise to me having driven a Tesla 3 which had very little I did comment to the Dealer Good Luck with finding a solution Dave

Morning Willy Welcome to the Forum As the breather forms part of the emission control it should be changed. Other than that if the cars History is good and general condition looks to match 70k wear pedal rubbers, seats, tyres etc then you have a decision to make without seeing the car it is virtually impossible for us to give an opinion Good Luck Dave

Hi Tino Changing the FRM should be easy the only issue is that's where BMW store Mileage information (there and the instrument cluster) so you may trigger a tamper dot against the mileage. Easy to correct. Seems you have eliminated the FRM so onto the JBE if you can find one with the same Part number it should be straight forward with no programming Keep going Matey Dave

Morning Christine Is the garage a BMW Specialist or the Garage that sold the car ? I don't know what tests they carried out leaving the battery disconnected is a BMW Dealer trick to clear codes Talked to a friend who works for BMW in the US apparently they saw a number of these faults which requires a Gearbox Software reset or upgrade Dealers can do it using ISTA-P or a ZF Specialist is the next step. Here is what he sent me 240211.pdf Dave

Hi Rhys Near side cable can be a PITA that side has a 3 or 4 inch long sorry 75 to 100mm left hand thread on it seems to take forever to release from the actuator If you haven't already take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the rear axel or brakes sections you should find it and the small exploded drawing will help Good Luck Dave

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Rhys To release the cables you need to remove the Disc/Drum assembly if it is Drivers side you may be able to release the cable at the actuator end but it will be a fiddle but doable. Have you tried rocking the car backwards and forwards I had to do that using Drive/Rev several times before it un jammed. I have also seen one where the cable outer was firmly jammed in the hub (the Dealer solution was New Hub New Actuator cost was enough to write off the car) My solution remove the retaining clip then drive out the cable outer using a long pin punch. It took loads of soaking in penetrating fluid and a big club hammer but it came out 🤣 Replaced the brake shoes replaced Actuator and cable then the Disc/Hub the friend I was doing it for brought an Actuator assembly from Ebay and a set of Pads/Shoes from a local Auto Factor. That was 3 maybe 4 years ago and no problems. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

So the old Lead Foot syndrome tyre effect 🤣 Dave

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Jakub Welcome to the Forum I would guess that there is either a problem with a flawed file in the re-flash, is it the original or a file you obtained? I suppose you have tried clearing it down and re-flashing again, run a diagnostic scan before re-flashing to make sure there are no issues that can interfere Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum My bet is Battery dying check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet, anything below 12.5v with the engine off would indicate a discharged or dying battery. Good Luck Dave

Hi Rhys If the cable has a Ball on the end it is OEM if it has a Loop it is probably an aftermarket replacement not that that's a problem just indicates it has been changed before. I have seen one where the EPB unit had been replaced 3 times by the owner but he hadn't checked shoe wear and adjusted them ?? I needed a Claw hammer to get enough leverage to release the jammed cable. When I took the unit off the car I took it apart and was actually able to release it internally and save the unit (he has it as a spare now) Like most things on a car if it's looked after it will last a long long time Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Stu is on the right track but when you push the button on the end of the stalk and the green light is on that is the rain sensor enabled, wiper should then operate when the sensor is obscured by water on the screen, just either spray water or sprinkle some on the screen. A single click down intermittent two clicks up for full operation and high speed a push towards the dash is intermittent rear wash wipe push towards the dash and click should give full rear wiper operation Dave

Hi Colin and Welcome What are you needing to learn about ? Happy to help if we can Dave

Hi Ty Welcome to the Forum Try Googling the Register of BMW Specialists they are normally ex BMW guys so will have knowledge and the right kit. There should be one local to you Good Luck Dave

Hi Left side of the boot rear cubby there is a manual release for the Parking Brake, if you haven't found it. I have seen one where the shoes were badly worn and it allows the Parking Brake mechanism to over wind and jam (the screech) then a chunk of shoe material had detached, I released the PB then reversed the car which freed the brake. New shoes and a reset of the PB all good. It sounds like yours may have had a poor maintenance back ground Dave

Morning Chas dee Welcome to the Forum Either BMW or any with an anti fungal additive (I use Prestone) Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Christine BMW's are well known for being sensitive to Battery voltage I have seen quite a few with either a parasitic discharge or discharged battery. The discharged battery will still start the car but diverts all energy to the start triggering all sorts of spurious warnings. For your information if the battery is charged on the car it should only be charged from the charge points under the bonnet. At the battery your car has an IBS lead (Intelligent Battery System) which lets the cars system know if it is charging or not. I have seen a few BMW's that have batteries changed and the lead has not been reconnected Transmissions are pretty robust but just like the Engine do need servicing Hope you get it sorted Dave

Morning Christine Welcome to the Forum I would be concerned about your garage as the only time I have seen that code was on an X5 with an incorrectly fitted battery (IBS not connected)? First I would point out that I am not a garage just an old engineer with an insatiable need to know 😅 I also have a fully up to-date BMW Diagnostic program and have worked on my own X5's since 2002. Google the register of BMW Specialists you should find one close by I would start with the battery, get the Voltage checked at the Charging points under the bonnet. Engine off it should show 12.5v minimum with the engine running 14.5v min. Also check the battery connections in the boot make sure the IBS (small lead) is connected Hope this helps Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Used to hear this a lot when catalyser's were bedding in but haven't heard it for a while. Are most of your journeys short duration ? Maybe a couple of longer runs will get the Cat up to temperature and clear it Dave

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum 804415 ....Radio remote control.... Permanent (replaced the battery in the remote, deleted code but it came back) Have you tried another key or do you just have the 1 ? Try using a good contact cleaner on the Battery contacts 80442A .....Light operating unit .... Intermittent Sounds like the Rotary control switch unplug it and contact cleaner again plug and switch 48069E ..... Wheel calibration....permanent The next 6 codes are all related either the TPMS control is having a hissy fit or one or more of the wheel sensors have an issue 4806F4....rear right .... Intermittent 48077C...front left.... permanent 48077D....front right.... permanent 48077E.....rear left .... permanent 48077F....rear right... permanent 13820A...radiator blind blocked..... permanent Have you checked for any physicall blockage ? Check Fuses and Relay 13820B.....radiator blind blocked.... permanent Hope this helps Dave