Greydog

Morning Gerard (well it is here in the UK) Welcome to the Forum OK take a look at www.realoem.com (if you haven't already) put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the sections for what you need that way if you need parts you will know the correct part numbers. The small exploded drawings also give clues as to how they fit. Also if you are unaware www.pelicanparts.com have some great "How Too's" with pictures they are also very knowledgeable and helpful. I have known a few Aux water pump failures but not known one cause over heating so I would give the cooling system a complete overhaul if the car has the electric water pump I would change that and the thermostat as well as the Aux pump if the water pump is belt driven I would still change it and its thermostat. In the UK Electric and Belt driven pumps are about the same cost £120 ($150) with thermostat the Aux water pump is similar cost changing them is well within Home Mechanic skills. Your Niece has a bargain if that is the only issue Dave

Morning Oswald Welcome to the Forum What was happening before you did the work? How was the transmission behaving? Why did you do the work? The ZF Trans in your should be a 5 speed you don't say how many miles it has covered or whether it has a service history that shows the Trans has been serviced (should be every 60k or so). Have all connections been checked all fuses ? You dropped the sump and filter are you sure you put control valve assembly back correctly when you changed the solenoids? I have read of motronic unit failures but they were rare, has the EGS been checked? Last but not least when you refilled the transmission fluid was it the correct type for the transmission? Wrong fluid will kill the trans. I have actually seen a trans that was diagnosed as "No signal" and dead by a Roadside Recovery mechanic it turned out to be the rear diff was toast Lot of checking to be done before changing the trans Dave

That looks really nice Rod you must be pleased Estoril Blue my e53 4.6is was Estoril Blue (the fastest colour) 😅 ENJOY Dave

Morning Richard Welcome Back (almost) Enjoy your Beemer what ever your choice Dave

Morning Josh Welcome to the Forum If nothing has changed BMW AUC cars always came with a 12month comprehensive BMW Warranty which should give some comfort, there should also be the opportunity to extend it if you wish, maybe see if you can squeeze the sales manager to extend it Read through the 1 and 2 series posts not just this site to find an indication of recurring faults Then if all is good ENJOY your new to you Beemer Dave

Morning Michelle Welcome to the Forum It would depend on whether the rust is in the sub frame or the body if it is in the cars body shell it will take a lot of work and once the rot is there it is difficult to stop. If it is the subframe that can be replaced 15 hours labour at (a guess here) say £80 ph is £1200 + parts + Vat so I suppose you have to measure that against cost of a replacement and how much you love the car Hope this helps Dave

Morning Nadeem If you used your Vin number and www.realoem to find the part numbers that will be how a BMW Dealer would use it to find correct parts for your chassis. So it raises a question is the diff you have taken off original or is an incorrect replacement ? Is it the correct ratio. Jack up the car make a chalk mark on a tyre get under and do the same on the prop UJ get a helper to turn the wheel 2 1/2 times you should see 1 rotation on the prop UJ (as you have the Diff is off the car rotate either the input or a drive shaft flange and count the revolutions) I have just checked realoem and the part numbers I get for a BMW 3.0d F10 Diff are 33107630816 (new Diff) and 33107630817 (Refurbished) I searched realoem again for BMW 3.0d LCI F10 Diff and the part numbers I get are 33107630821 (2.56-1 ratio) or 33107630816 and 33107630817 (2.47-1 ratio) So I am at a loss where you have looked for part numbers as realoem doesn't recognise any of the part numbers you posted I hope this helps Dave

Hi Nadeem Welcome to the Forum The F19 and F11 models share the same ratio Diff 2.47-1 check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the Rear Axel section you should be able to get the correct Part Number once you have the part number you can use it to search for a replacement If you double click the part number in realoem you will get a list of any alternatives and models it was used in Hope this helps Dave

Morning Stu Mole grips on the cable end has always worked for me Just asked an ex BMW Tech he says same part just the lever and mount are handed Dave

Morning Stu First is the mechanism actually broken or just the cable, I have seen quite a few and it normally its the cable not the mechanism. You should be ok changing just the cable I would think It seems looking at ISTA that the part is the same the lever and trim are different (opposite hand) All you have to do is stand on your head in the footwell to check 😂 If your still unsure ask someone like Quarry if they have the parts (I am sure they will) or even a BMW Dealer if your local one is friendly Dave

Hi Stu Which bit have you broken 🤪 clumsy boy 🤣 Is it the manual bonnet release with the lever that comes forward through the grill or one of the bowden cable catches? I believe the manual release is the same (left or right) the Bowden Cable releases are the same part or could it be the Bowden cable arm in the footwell ? Dave

Morning The car i did the upgrade on was a BMW X5 4.6is 2003 not a 7 series however the engine in your car should be an M62 V8 my 4.6is was also M62, just a larger version of your engine Dave

Hi Dimitriis I used a Thermal Fan Switch 38mm for the top hose on a V8 Defender/Discovery. The actual Electric fan came from a later model 4.4 V8 X5 and after removing the engine driven fan and shroud was a straight replacement just needed a little thought wiring it in so it looked OEM Good Luck Dave

Morning Fee Welcome to the Forum How's the water today 😆 I think you should be OK, just buy yourself a Faraday Bag to pop the fob into or the car will thing your still in it Or get a water proof pouch and take the fob with you Hope your enjoying your new BMW Dave

Or you could take the bulb out of the lamp and see what effect it has on battery drain 🤣 Just looked at a wiring diagram and there is a 2 position switch but no location I would assume you have had your fingers on it Dave

Hi Daniel Welcome to the Forum From your description if the noise only happens in one gear and at certain revs it would seem to me to point towards a Gearbox problem A gearbox service may help but to be certain you would need the help of a Gearbox specialist. Or if you have DIY skills you could fit an exchange box yourself (don't forget new clutch) Dave

Morning Stu Take a look at www.pelicanparts.com BMW Articles section you will find an excellent guide with pictures Hope that gets it sorted Dave

Hi John Sunny Sussex 🤣 The Land fill site is around 5 miles away (as the Seagull flies) the Industrial Estate where they congregate and nest around 1/2 mile and like you we are on the flight path We also have our fair share of Magpies, Crows Pigeons, one of our sons put an Owl silhouette up on our roof, the Seagulls take no notice at all the pigeons were the only ones who gave it a wide berth until they worked out it never moved now they sit beside it 🤣🤣 The E70 has a Ceramic coating which seems to make it easier to wash (regularly) my wife's car lives in the Garage (wonder how that happened)

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum As you have had a few "practice" models the E53 will be a doddle 😂🤣 All E53's feel heavy on the steering my wife won't drive the X5's unless it is essential (can be a bonus) Enjoy your new hobby Dave

Not far from where we live is an Industrial estate and Sea Gulls nest there. I didn't think a bird could do that much !!!!! 🤣 Enjoy the Summer Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum First you need to establish what is fitted to the car Basic with CD, Business with CD or Radio with Nav use a Vin Decoder to establish what system was fitted at Build Then go to www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look at the Audio Section. Now the fiddly bit you need to remove the radio to get the part number and check against the site part numbers so if you need a replacement you get the right one. It could be that it has been replaced but with the wrong unit or it has a fault. There are a few Companies who repair or upgrade them ECU Testing and Cartronix I have experience of. Dave

Morning Dimitris Welcome to the Forum With the E53 4.6is I fitted an Electric Engine fan from a later 4.4 model controlled by aan 88deg thermostat inserted in the top hose, that combined with a Febi engine thermostat rated the same kept things cool even when towing our Horse trailer Hope this helps Dave

Welcome to the Forum John Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi John Sounds like goodish news hopefully not expensive As the suns out you could just leave the top down, no noise then 🤣🤣 Me I don't even have a sun roof 🤣😂 so I can report no noises plus I don't have enough hair to allow the wind in it 😂 Dave

Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum The 1 series you owned was it a diesel? I would at a guess it was a 118d or 120d, extended service intervals really caught many N47 engined BMW owners and BMW out. The engines that were getting oil changes seemed to fair much better The engine in the E46 is different N46 at the low-ish mileage 55k oil and filters would always be my priority to give the engine a better chance at a long life Lots of things effect ball joints and rubber bushes. Just helped a neighbour with a suspension rebuild he got a complete kit for £120 Lower wishbones track control arms and Anti roll bar links took around 3 hours with tea and biscuit breaks. Check the internet or your local motor factors for costs then use it as a negotiating point Good Luck with the purchase Dave