Greydog

Hi Welcome to the Forum Search www.realoem.com Its a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will pull up your model check the relevant section for the part number then Google it for best price Aerosus are a good aftermarket for the X5 but yours may well have EDC so that will make a difference I believe Bilstein are also manufacturers. Dave

Hi Paul Taking stuff off all you need in the tool box is a Dwarf with 9" long double jointed fingers the grip like Mole grips 😅 Dry solder joints are a known issue so the intermittent nature of the fault could be there? I would also reconnect the plugs with the LCM loose then moving/twisting the loom will show any fault there, also check the earth point. If the issue is dry solder joints companies like BBA Reman and ECU Testing offer 24 hour repair and you will avoid any need to re-program. Dave

Hi Lee Welcome to the Forum My first stop is www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your Model then search the relevant section for the part numbers you need. Once you have the part number then Google is your friend, don't dismiss BMW dealers some give excellent discounts for older models. Dave

Hi Owen Check www.realoem.com It is an Online BMW Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section. Dave

Michelle Welcome to the Forum That is a very different issue maybe buy/borrow a dog and let it sleep in the car a couple of nights Dave

Hi Stewart Welcome to the Forum When you changed the Transmission Fluid did you use the correct Fluid and are the levels correct ? If memory serves your box is ZF 6 speed, and should use ZF Longlife Fluid. The Lock up clutch for the TC is inside the TC and friction operated so if there is an issue there it is a box out job then either rebuilt or new TC Dave

Welcome to the Forum Owen Enjoy your new car Dave

Your BMW specialist should be able to carry out a 4 wheel alignment which would show up a chassis problem. Was there not an HPI report with the car when you brought it? That should show up any accident history, even if it were a self repair I would think any chassis damage should be evident Dave

Thanks for the update Nick What about talking to the folks at West Surrey Racing they prepare and run the BMW's in the BTCC they may be helpful if not in fitting in direction to look Dave

My battery failed in 2019 it was the original fitted to the car in 2003 !!!! When they are fitting the radio they should disconnect the battery it is trick used by dealers to reset sticky faults Dave

Morning Philip My guess would be Battery, after the car had been standing then using the compressor knocked it flat so reluctant start and Christmas tree illuminations. Most warnings will reset without help in this case though you have a sticky one. How old is the battery ? I would check or get it checked. If it is OK make sure it is fully charged, if charging on the car use the charging points under the bonnet do not connect to the battery. Once fully charged then disconnect it for 30 mins that should clear your warning lights. If you remove the battery for charging then you are doing the above anyway. Hope this helps Dave

Morning As I understand/remember it the door lock has to match the key and using the key in the door lock sync's the key with the EWS As for registering the key sometimes they can be uncooperative little so and so's. As you don't have the keys already registered can you clear the memory and start again ? I have a document covering the Central Body Electrics and comm's digging for it now, Just reading it looks like a max 4 keys if I understand it you have to clear some space for the new keys491496552_Tab7CentralBodyElectronicsZ.pdf Hope this helps Dave 491496552_Tab7CentralBodyElectronicsZ.pdf

Morning Steven (seastones) Welcome to the Forum Having owned several high end German cars I began to feel that their Dealers had a piece of software that extracted money when I drove past LOL Being serious all Dealerships will be expensive (someone has to pay for the free coffee) but some are worse than others by not wanting to "repair" your car but just change expensive units at your cost. A Diagnostic Scan will confirm most faults and most good Independent garages will have the facility Brake pads you will find available online or from a good Motor Factor (you have Pelican Parts in the USA) and are the first step. Disc's will only normally need changing when there is a significant wear lip at the edge of the disc, if it's smooth I would suggest they are fine. So your Questions 1. Is resurfacing ALWAYS required? NO only if scoring is evident 2. About how much per axle ;should pads cost? That will vary on source and quality I recently replaced the pads all around on my X5, rears were £45 (about $60) and made by Brembo they came with wear sensor and anti squeal paste. Brembo are a recognised upmarket Brake Manufacturer so are better than fine in my opinion. Take a look at www.realoem.com It is an online BMW Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model the search the relevant section for the Part/part number you need (Pelican Parts will have the same facility) Now you have the part number you know it will fit no matter who the supplier is. Dave

Morning Shady Sorry off the top my head not a clue, I do believe that the OEM supplier is Harmon Kardon maybe a search of their catalogue may help Dave Oh and Welcome to the Forum

I have one of those always there with a supportive word "like" you should have a Subaru like mine !! Wonder who maintains that then ? 🤣

That s only 68db when parked Tony 🤣

Brilliant 🤣 🤣 🤣

Morning Paul A job I have done earlier this year on my X5, I have also replaced them on 2 1 series and a 5 series. BMW will tell you the only fix is a new LCM that can only be coded by them, so will some specialists Happy to report they are all wrong, you can fit a second hand LCM and code it to your car using BMW PA Soft 1.4.0 or if you dont fancy trying yourself a member with PA Soft would help I am sure. I have a How to already written up. Check realoem for the correct part number for your car (mine was LCM III I upgraded to LCM IV more functions) Once you know what is in there either by pulling it out or using realoem Google search a replacement. My LCM IV came from Quarry Motors cost £90 delivered in 3 days fitted and programmed in under an hour. If you don't program it straight away everything will work but there will be a tamper dot by your mileage. Don't panic because as soon as it is programmed it will disappear. Dave

Hi Stu I didn't change the ignition barrel just the door lock DME an EWS fiddly not difficult I would term it. The help of a dwarf with 9" long double jointed fingers that can hold like mole grips would be good if you find one lock it in a cupboard in case I need to borrow it 🤣 I was wondering if you could reprogram the Vin number in your existing EWS? may be cheaper (your not buying new I hope) Tip. Remember if buying a spare key take the key your getting with the lock set into the Dealer they can read the key to order if you give them the car vin it wont work Dave

Hi Jon The actuator will be fine normally, the issue is water gets onto the the actuator arm that is attached to the rising arm that the signal pin is attached to rust builds up and they stick button rises and falls but actuator arm sticks. As the passenger door gets little use compared to the drivers door it suffers, rear doors the mechanism is at an angle so fairs better. Loads of lube is the way to go, I used Stormsure Tape (the wife buys it to mend her horse rugs) to repair my membrane as its water proof Every days a school day as the old saying goes. 🤣 well it is if you have an X5 Dave

Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum That's a new one Certainly low miles it would have to have lived in City centre to average, what seems to be 16mph but possible Your cars mileage is recorded in 2 places (1) the IKE Binnacle (2) in the LCM/FCM if there is more than a very few difference there will be a tamper dot where the mileage is shown. You could also check the MOT history (there should be 1 at least) which will show the mileage at it's first MOT and maybe it's second they can't be altered. I am not sure if your snap on gives you access to individual modules so you may need some friendly soul with INPA/ISTA Carly for BMW, PA Soft or similar Good Luck Dave

Hi Lewis Welcome to the Forum You mean the thingamajig that connects to the whatsit 😃 sorry couldn't help myself Try www.realoem.com it is a BMW online Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number in the search box it will bring up your model Then search the sections for what you need there are little exploded drawings that will help, plus part numbers and description for ordering Note the prices shown are in US$ and are not UK fixed Dave

Morning Graham Try talking to your local BMW Dealer many give discounts on parts for older models like ours. Is yours missing ? they can be repaired with gaffer tape or if you have horses as we do Stormsure waterproof tape (rug repairs) is brilliant. Most of the time it is the adhesive seal around the edges of the membrane which needs softening and spreading where the gaps are Dave

Hi Don First is your car x-drive if it is matching rolling radius front to rear is important to avoid transmission wind up. Changing aspect ratio on your wheels as fitted could also cause your car to throw a hissy fit, in the stability control Traction control department. My brother inlaw has several run 5 series over the years all on 19" wheels he wears the standard fit run flats down and changes to Yoko non run flat he swears they are a better ride? My X5 is on 20" non run flat summer and 18" winters the winters are a quieter ride Dave

That will be the membrane 😀