Greydog

Morning Kenny ZF Part is the same but check the loom connections just in case BMW have done something sneaky at the connectors. If you are not changing the Gearbox Control unit all should be good with no coding issues. As the box is out are you changing the Torque converter ? If yes, I would make sure the torque converter is rated for the 535 as it has a significant torque increase to handle. I would also check with ZF or a ZF Agent to see if any software upgrades are available for the box. I had this some years ago with a box change on a Volvo T6 V70 with a box from a Volvo T6 S80. I just swapped the box loom for the one on the original box, my Volvo Agent said "Cant be Done" but strangely was happy to upgrade the software 😁 Good Luck Dave

Hmmmn Good Old BMW Dealer A quick look at realoem tells me that the Roll bar for you car is also used on the F45LCI F46 F48 and Mini Clubman F54 while the M235 roll bar was used on F39 F40 F44 and two Mini's the Clubman F54 and Countryman F60 Mind my BMW Dealer told me that "someone" had fitted "Non""standard parts to my X5 that could make it unsafe to drive !!! The non standard parts are Poly bushes I asked him if they were unsafe why were BMW use them on their BTCC cars ? No answer not mentioned again. Dave

Morning Brian Normally the Vin Decoder will give a list of codes (left column below) that identify the equipment to be fitted as (a) Standard and (b) Customer order S806A BMW Third Brake Light SZP1A BMW Performance brake system SZP2A BMW Performance air-induction system SZP3A BMW Performance muffler system SZP4A BMW Performance shift travel reduction SZP5A BMW Performance suspension In realoem is there a different roll bar Part No for the M version ? My wife's Subaru Outback is heavily modified, Olin adjustable suspension all round 356mm 6 pot front brakes and a 3.0 Perrin engine ride is on the hard side. My X5 4.6is is all BMW OEM and the ride is OK on good roads Harsh on most roads Dave

There seems to be 3 posts here all relating to the same Issue/Car Simple answer is as you recently purchased the car it is the Dealers responsibility under the sale of goods act to supply a car that is fit for purpose. Take it back to the Dealer Dave

There seems to be 3 posts here all relating to the same Issue/Car Simple answer is as you recently purchased the car it is the Dealers responsibility under the sale of goods act to supply a car that is fit for purpose. Take it back to the Dealer Dave

Hi Samantha Welcome to the Forum My X5 is fitted with reverse camera and PDC system and my daughter told me "Dad they are a waste of money there is always a thud when your to close" Sadly that isn't a joke bless her. So your problem, the BMW PDC system is fussy but great when it works. You may need the help of a willing assistant depending on how hands on you are but no special tools are needed. On your model all sensors can be got to without removing stuff the fact you don't get a Beep when selecting reverse may need some digging though? do you get warning bongs/beeps if you leave a door open or lights on? If yes that's good news. Next with the use of your willing assistant remove the boot floor spare wheel cover and spare wheel, then udo the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the suspension compressor down and carefully prop it up at the back of the back seat. You will now be looking at the battery, BM54 radio, TV unit (on the right if fitted) look down nearest the back of the car you should see a control unit with 3 plugs on the top Blue White and Black. Question does your car have a tow bar? If it does you should have an extra control unit alongside the main PDC controller this disconnects the rear sensors when the trailer plug is inserted. So sensors front and rear are the same. The simple thing would be a diagnostic scan which would identify which if any components were duff. If not I would have the trusty assistant check that everything was clean (get some electrical contact cleaner RS Components are a good source) plug and unplug the connectors several times using the cleaner. The fact you have no sound could point to the actual controller (assuming you have the other beeps) All parts are available on the well known Auction site at sensible cost Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model the search for the bits you need. There are small drawing to help plus if buying you will have the correct part numbers and know they will fit. Hope my ramble is a help not confusing Dave

Hi Brian Welcome to the Forum That's a new one 😂 a soft BMW Two things I would do (1) check BMW Vin Decoder (Google) it will bring up your cars build sheet so you will have the original setup (2) check www.realoem.com (it is a BMW online parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model so you can check what parts are available. Certainly M sport springs and dampers are normally stiffer. Hope you find what you need Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Asking folks to diagnose a noise without hearing it is just about impossible. I also don't follow the Specialists advice, from what I have read the newer engines have 4 Lambda Sensors where earlier engines have 2, but their job is the same to measure the Nitrogen Oxide (Nox). They are mounted before the Catalyser and after the catalyser so that they can measure the difference and signal the DME to adjust fuel/valve timing accordingly. I think you have 2 catalysers so 4 sensors.A diagnostic scan should show any issues. The advice given seems to be inline with Diesel's to force a regeneration of the DPF (Diesel Particulate filter) If the knock is only on cold start? I would first check oil levels as low oil will let oil drain back to the sump which then would give several components the opportunity to rattle/knock on start up, once the engine has run and oil pressure is in the system no rattle/knock. If oil level is OK I would check for something loose in the exhaust that once warm expands and stops the rattle. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Dan I take it there is oil in the Diff ? When you rotate the prop is there play or movement in the Rubber Doughnuts that connect each end they are a known cause of issues as they crack with age and use/abuse 🤣 Plus they are considerably cheaper than a diff. With the drive shafts check each end for loose bolts Dave

Morning Lance Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan would help pinpoint where the problem is it could be the door switch or an issue with the FCM. Without testing and checking you can spend a lot of cash changing stuff unnecessarily. I would start with the simple things pop out the switch clean the connectors and pins with a good contact cleaner (not WD40) see if that improves things test the switch operation with a tester/multi meter. Pop the back off the mirrors and check/clean connections. Don't forget the earth connections Hope this helps Dave

Now Stu remember a BMW should be seen as an Educational Device (did you mean the fuse in the right cubby or the 10a fuse under the quadloc on the radio unit) Dave

Morning Dan Is the play in the Diff or drive shafts ? I may be wrong but I thought your car came with 2.56 or 3.15 diff depending on Transmission. The bigger engine models 330i or M3 are 3.15 or 3.08 (check I am an old bloke) I would check the whole drive train for wear slack in all prop-shaft joints and drive shafts. If more acceleration is your goal then a simple ECU tune would push power to about 210hp with a good increase in torque. How ever if your getting there quicker make sure you can stop faster to, so don't forget brakes and suspension. Dave

Hi Simon As said in your earlier post check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then search wheels. It will give you all the information you need for 17" 18" 19" 20" wheels Dave

🤣😂🤣 If in doubt chuck it out !!! Strikes again From Memory there is a plastic formed insert that sits below the spare that houses the PDC If the scan is telling you which sensor I would first check the connector at the sensor clean and refit they often get damp and throw a wobbler..If that doesn't cure it change it fairly easy job.

Morning Kenny Use BMW Vin decoder it will give you the build sheet for your Chassis, that way you know what was there at assembly. (1) No special tools that I can think of? ? Apart from a really big bag of patience, I take it you have a good trim removal tool set. The seats in my X5 are held down byT45 Fillister head from memory. My 3/8 Drive ratchet set has T10 to T55 plus I added the same sizes in Torx Sockets. I would take a good look at TIS and Realoem if there are any plastic clips get a few spare before hand, (though as you have a donor car you may be OK. (2) With any luck your donor car has trim parts in the colour you want?? One of the guys on the X5 forum a few years back wrapped his in Carbon effect the pictures looked good.Check www.realoem.com for clues. (3) The main looms and connectors should be there (unless your Modder has been there with his scissors) If your car is like the X5 the main loom runs each side of the car in a channel under the carpet then across to the centre under the seats where it meets with the loom from the Dash. Some carpet may be glued in place but removal should be straight forward. Just dip into the bag of patience (4) Just compare the two loom connections under the centre console (5) You can change heated seat pads (bag of patience again) again realoem should be a help if used with TIS. You can leave plugs unused just tape them to protect them. Me personally if it is there it should work!1 My sons say I have OCD in that respect 🤣 Seems your in a similar mould Kenny you will have a virtually new car soon 😅 Dave

Morning Stu OOerr that is definitely a knackered tyre 🤢 When I had my 4.4 it ran 19" Staggered set from memory 255x50x19R front and 285x45x19R rear Front wheels 19"x9J ET48 Rear wheels 19"x10JxET45 If you have been running the same size tyres all round on staggered rims I am amazed you haven't had transmission wind up or at least signs of it !! Dave PS Just had a thought there was a guy on another Forum a few years back who fitted 10J wheels front and rear he thought it stopped tyre shoulder wear ?? I always thought good alignment and tyre pressure did that Silly Me. Check your front wheel sizes in case he had a fan

Don't post them, our Postie keeps telling they were leaking 🤣🤣

If the engine is stripped already my personal route would be another head assembly. Checked for flatness with a good straightedge and a torch. If OK I would fit new valves and springs and rebuild the engine. Always worth more as a running car than a project

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com for BMW recommendations 18" 19" 20" personally I would steer clear of bigger sizes as tyre options become restricted It depends I guess on what it fitted now, are the current wheel/tyre combination staggered (wider at the back) or square (same width front and back) You could go to something like 20" 275x40x20R front and 315x35x20R rear or 20" 275x40x20R all round with spacers at the rear Beauty as they say is in the eye of the beholder so one mans "Gucci" is another mans Yuk Just enjoy your Beemer Dave

Whoop Whoop great news Dan well done Matey

Morning Guido I spent most of my working life involved with materials handling systems and their controls, if we were migrating a clients control package/system upgrade whatever the reason we NEVER turned off what was there until the new package was fully commissioned. Sadly it seems BMW (like many others) just shut stuff down just crazy. My neighbour works for BMW Group I will see if he's home and ask if he can help. Just spoke with him and he accessed what he could of the archive so here goes, production started in March 1976 with complete car assembly by Karmann some early cars were 3.0cs (can't find numbers yet) he believes all 633 were CSi. Karmann built complete cars until August 1977 After August Karmann made bodies but assembly was by BMW late 1977 they started to produce the 635CSi. Apparently the 1976/77 Karmann built cars are proverbial Rocking Horse Poo he suggests contacting Karmann they will have chassis records, apparently BMW are due up and running soon !! So if your car was registered in 1976 or early 1977 chances are it's pretty special. Fingers crossed for you Dave

I assume ECU, Throttle Body and cams, As all the heads appear to be the same the only things variable are (a) Capacity (b) ECU program (c) Throttle Body (d) Camshaft duration/lift I thought you were just rebuilding the motor in the X3 and looking for a head that would fit. Remember if you change the engine you will have to change the sump as it also mounts the front diff and has to have a Drive Shaft pass through it there are probably a few other differences I have not thought of. Best option would be the 3.0i engine from either the X3 or X5 both would need the corresponding ECU and the ECU would need matching to your existing chassis and other key control units Dave

Hi Les I have a couple of lists of all the ULF/Telematic units that I used when finding the best upgrade for my X5 I hope it helps Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW Online Parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section there a re small exploded drawing to help identify if your exhaust is standard or not. Hope the lists help Dave BMW ULF.odt BMW_TCUandULF_PartNumbers.pdf

Morning Dan Turbos get flippin hot, years ago people would shut the engine down and the oil in the turbo would bake. As you can imagine they failed on a regular basis, advice then was let the car tick over for 5 or 10mins to allow everything time to cool down. Today turbos have much longer lives thanks to onboard systems. It may be part of the cars protection program that keeps the vanes moving until it cools down, haven't heard it before but now I will check. It could be the coolant system Aux pump circulating to cool things down while the actuator moves the vanes through their range. Dave

Morning Guido Welcome to the Forum Wow just wow, if your car is genuine then you could have your hands on a very rare car indeed. The E24 was a development from the E9 as far as I know production number s were very low around 200 cars mid 1970's to late 1980's. I am told that the early cars bodies were produced by Karmann which would make it rarer still. You must have Chassis/ Engine numbers I would contact BMW direct for help they should be able to trace at least it's production history Dave