Greydog

Hi Stu Check the starter motor carefully the earlier E53 were fitted with Magneti Marrelli starter when they start to fail they draw huge amps killing batteries in no time. I have seen reports of 600+amp draw, put a clamp ammeter on the starter and check also check the relays (30g I think see if its warm) crank sensors are another known issue Mine was slow turning over so changed to Bosch as a precaution Dave

Morning Lauren Welcome to the Forum The ABS controller would be my educated guess here in the UK there are several specialist repair companies a couple offering 48hr turn around. Google should help you find someone near you. A scan would definitely confirm it, either INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 will allow dealer level diagnostics for you E46 there are many others iCarsoft Carly for BMW (subscription) My personal choice would be BMW 1.4.0 cheap as chips to buy online loaded mine on an old laptop it will allow fault code reading and gives the code plus a description in plain English next would be INPA this is a real dealer level program with technical drawings and descriptions but can be fiddly to get going. A good code reader/diagnostic program will cost less than 1 session at a Dealer. There is an online BMW parts list that will help if buying spares (new or second hand) www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need. Good Luck and Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Niki Not trying to "teach Granny" but assuming the Battery has been checked and is in good condition and also assuming the alternator fitted was the correct one for the car, you could have a parasitic drain killing the battery overnight. I would fully charge the battery either by a good run or with a charger disconnect the battery from the car leave it 12 hours and check it if it is still fully charged. If it holds a charge off the car then the issue is with one of the systems on the car Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum If I recall the condensate should drain a the back of the gearbox under the car I did read about issues with a hidden drain under the Ebox that can only be checked from the passenger wheel arch behind the liner Try looking at www.realoem.com it is an Online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the sections for what you want. There are small exploded drawings that may help. Good Luck Dave

Well G'day George Welcome to the Forum What engine are you considering there were some well documented timing chain issues with the earlier N47 diesel engines around 2014 they were upgraded not sure of the date Petrol engines seemed OK Apart from that the normal checks apply History History History, here in the UK after 3 years there is the annual MOT test which we can also check online showing if any work was required to pass and what was done (or not) also shows "advisories" so you can see what is coming. All accessories should work (test everything) Gearbox should be smooth and quiet again depending on miles should be serviced, as with all 4x4 tyres should match and be correct sizes all round, mismatched or odd tyres can wreak havoc on the transfer case. Hope I haven't put you off Dave

Hi Pamela Dont do Facebook so cant hear it but I have heard a few with X pipes fitted, wakes a few folk up if you make an early start. Dave

Hi Silenthill Welcome to the Forum With good maintenance and servicing very, the BMW straight six is one of the worlds great engines. So all the normal used car checks need to be made plus make sure every gadget works as it should. Drive train checks apply to all 4x4 systems at 80k it will be due a service, if it hasn't had it use it as a negotiating point. Make sure all tyres are the same and correct for the car, also make sure they have plenty of tread (you don't want to be spending out to soon) All all wheel drive systems need matched tyres front and rear to avoid transmission wind up and possible damage. Driving everything should be silky smooth and quiet. ENJOY Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum What does your Handbook say ? Dave

Hi Guys I stand corrected just checked the oracle active flaps were fitted For vehicles with CO2 package and Active steering and Increased towing capability and Towing hitch, detachable and Chassis & suspens. setup"Adaptive Drive" and Active cruise control+Stop&Go function and Cold-climate version S1CBA=Yes S217A=No S233A=No S235A=No S2VAA=No S5DFA=No S842A=No There was also a Hot Climate version Every day is a school day Dave

Hi T-con Aldis IIRC active radiator flaps were an Extreme Climate fitting (could be wrong so I will claim OLD BLOKE amnesia) when they were fitted they were a PITA they either failed open so often not noticed or closed in which case the fans running sounded like you were about to go for take off. I have also seen vacuum operated rad blinds in Canada They were vacuum operated from a solenoid tucked away under the manifold and linked to the thermostats not sure on the diesel but if memory serves you have 3 on your car Main Thermostat, lower rad thermostat and the EGR thermostat. If the vacuum operated flaps are fitted a failed vacuum actuator, cracked split vacuum pipe, failed sticking solenoid or a failure of any of the thermostats will cause a problem Just didn't realise they were fitted to UK spec cars, lucky you Aldis as said they could be a real PITA

2 mins while it recharges just enough time to jump out and drag the body with the startled expression into the bushes out of the way 😲 Brilliant we need video

What current is the compressor drawing (the X5's suspension compressor has a 30a main fuse and a 7.5a control fuse) at 20 or 30a I would certainly look at putting a relay in line controlled by the switch Don't sound it without a warning to your passengers 😂 you could have a cardiac arrest on your hands 🤣

Hi Florian Welcome to the Forum That is noisy sounds like a diesel ?? The cause could be leaky injector seals, noisy lifters, a leaking manifold a whole raft of stuff. How many miles has it covered? What is the service history ? What oil is it running is the oil level correct? Dave

Morning Where are you going to mount the compressor up front under the bonnet or in the back? Where ever it is I think I would take a feed with an appropriate in-line fuse direct from the battery (in the boot or the jumpstart point under the bonnet) through a 30/40amp relay to the compressor. I would switch the relay from an ignition controlled source such as the radio in the boot or heater fans upfront. I know what you mean about the "meandering masses" we keep the horses at a yard that is accessed by a 3/4 mile "Private" single track road. Since the first lock down and because it is paved the meanderers with there dogs and children have adopted it as they can wander up and down and not get their white trainers dirty !! Explaining that the road is "Private" and not a public right of way can earn you some serious abuse and often the men are as bad ??🤣 One group of mountain bikers have broken down a fence to access a local forest where they have dug jumps and rams. I have repaired the fence several times but they somehow think they have a right to do what they like one of the girls at the yard challenged them and was told **** Off we aren't doing any harm !! Maybe a minor heart attack when the Gatwick Express sneaks up on them would work and be damn funny to watch Dave

Hi Tony That's different !! a Train Horn !! I thought the rear sockets were live until the car goes to sleep You could take a switched feed from the rear fuse box to control a relay as the main power source for your BEEE BAHHH horn God thats going to be loud Dave

Hi Hubss Welcome to the Forum Not sure which Brembo calliper but you could take a look at www.realoem.com I know the BMW Msport 135M used 340mm discs up front and the Msport Callipers are 4 pot Remember if you upgrade the calliper you will need more clearance with the wheel 18" would probably be smallest and the offset would need to clear the calliper' I would look at realoem get the part numbers for the Msport stuff then use Google to see if you can get them at a good price. A friend of one of our sons has a 120d 2006 he managed to find a full set Front and Rear discs, callipers (in Blue) and pads for a sensible £800. The big plus was being Msport parts they all fitted without pain, he was already on 19" wheels. Dave Forgot to say when you look at realoem for the part numbers if you double click the partnumber it will call up a list of alternates and the models they are used on

Morning Jack Ooops I would definitely back track over everything you have done plus check the fuses. Just hope your short circuit hasn't damaged sensors or the control module First disconnect the wind deflector (you know the connections now) If the hood works then you will know for certain that it isn't a disturbed or damaged sensor. Then reconnect the wind deflector if it all works time for a beer and a pat on the back. If not then time to get out the tester and the diagnostic scanner if the crossed wires triggered a fault in the control module it may need the fault clearing and resetting before anything works. Dave

Hi Aldis Welcome to the Forum I was under the impression that the flaps in the radiator shrouds around the Auxiliary Fan (Front) and Engine or Electric fan (Engine bay) are just hinged and open with air flow when the car is moving. If you have Auxiliary heating there should be another small rad in the Wheel arch. Dave

Morning Kenny Glad it helps There used to be a BMW TIS site available that ran alongside realoem which was a massive help to guys like us. Both sites are USA based (due to the access/competition laws I believe) but BMW found away to pull the TIS site and make it subscription only!! Hope things go smoother now Dave

Hi Phil 57/58 MPG 😲 your asking a man with a V8 if that's good !! How about 18 mpg but Oh what a glorious sound 😂 I would say your doing OK if you were on a motorway journey it would be about 10% higher I would guess Dave

Morning Kenny No I had missed the cut wire I was searching for part numbers 😕 My neighbour sent me the attached PDF which is direct from the dealer work shop manual so get another beer and your reading glasses ready 🤣BMW Wiring Lights E60.pdf This is the Dealer workshop instructions for upgrading Pre-LCI to LCI lights. as you will expect it has many warnings (in case numpty's like us get our hands on them) A quick look at the wiring diagram shows the White with Black trace wire attached it also appears left side is White Black trace (WS/SW) and Right should be White Red trace (WS/RT). Who tried the upgrade initially came from the Jeremy Clarkson mechanics school "I mean how hard can it be" ?? If all the basics make sense and meet up with these pages getting the car to recognise the upgrade should be straight forward Hope this helps Dave

Hi Tony If you aren't aware www.realoem.com is an Online BMW Parts List just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model check the rear axel section and you will have an exploded drawing with all parts and parts numbers There were very limited Poly Bush options for the X5 when I did mine, literally Sub Frame Bushes Front Brake reaction arms and the Inner swing arms much more available now. As for making stuff it saves me being dragged into all the other jobs the "Chancellor" has on the "when your not busy list" like fitting the new stable door this weekend. Since I retired the last time I don't know how I fitted work in ??? 😂 Much more fun tinkering in the garage 👍 Dave

Morning Kenny Just had a quick look at realoem, there is a light set (Outer and Bulb holder) that fall into the date range you have for manufacture that are non exchangeable with the OEM fittings. So looking at the BMW part number on the bulb holder it is (last 6 digits) 177701 (left) 177702 (right) they are the ones marked non-exchangeable. I just checked TIS to see if I could find a reason for them not being exchangeable but cant find any bulletins, strangely BMW make the adapter harness so I assume they were produced for a specific market with lighting restrictions we are not aware of ??? perhaps lower resistance ?? My next door neighbour is pretty high up in BMW I will ask him if there are any internal bulletins that would help? I wonder if lust a change of lamp holder is possible ? Or if your unit should have LED lamps fitted ? The LCM is in the passenger footwell as you say, but I think you can only turn off bulb checks, not sure if you turn them off in the LM or through the IKE (X5 is IKE) OK just got some information which looks a bit of a faff so grab a beer your reading glasses and a comfy seat. This comes from a guy who made the change on his 06 530d The coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change: KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course. Lastly, you need to change: PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04 This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04 This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v) PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01 This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change. The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these. The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect. In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness: Left hand side rear light Pin 1 = ground - OK Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light Pin 3 = Reverse - OK Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs Pin 5 = Indicator - OK Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2 Right hand side rear light Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods) And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc. It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter. Just seems like a major pain in the backside as most LED lamps sold now have built in resistors I have LED front side lights LED number plate lights and LED third brake light with no warnings on the bulb check just a straight swap (well bit of soldering required with the third brake light) Dave

Morning Tony 🤣 I like that Best thing I did to the X5 was re-bush the suspension, I made all the bush removal/insertion tools myself with material scrounged from the scrap at a local engineering shop. Subframe bushes and inner swing arm bushes are now Poly Bushes, all the rest Meyle HD brought as a kit from the Bay. Ride improved, handling improved, tyre wear (inner rear) stopped. The most fiddly was the Diff mount bush but when done cured a slight vibration in the drive lines at 3k and above. Just remember AI was invented by someone who was born naturally stupid !! A skilled engineer doesn't need a computer, he knows instinctively what size hammer is needed Dave

Hi Kenny Check the lights where the bulb mount twists in any corrosion even a little can cause a hissy fit (common issue with the E53) I cleaned mine and rubbed a little conductive paste on (same as used to mount the chip in a computer around it no issues for 5 years. Loom adapter ? New one on me but as the old saying goes "Every day is a school day" check the earth connection though, odd ball thought could the extended length in the loom be the cause? Dave