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Everything posted by Greydog
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Hi I responded to your other post but here goes with this one First don't discount the ECU check all the pins in the ECU are clean and not corroded same applies to the ECU connector use a good quality electrical contact cleaner not something like WD40 The ECU is in communication with many other control units and if signals are not received it can cause all sorts of issues. So it is very possible for the ECU to still allow the engine to run (badly) even while not getting information from all the inputs it needs. Some of the issues you report point towards a failing LCM (lights staying on etc) To be sure you need a proper diagnostic session if you can't DIY there is a Register of BMW Specialists just Google it there should be one close by. Dave
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Hi Shapero Welcome to the Forum Your X5 should have the 218 bhp engine a 6 speed ZF gear box with 3 settings Drive Sport and Manual originally it should get to 60 in around 8.5 seconds not many in it's class could live with that. So your question is "it's like it doesn't have traction" is that a lack of power? Or a drive train issue? to be sure you need the codes read by someone with a BMW specific software to be sure and save yourself spending out on stuff you don't need to. Check all the fuses You don't have traction control as such it is DTC Dynamic Traction Control which takes information from the ABS sensors (measuring wheel speed/slip) the steering angle sensors Yaw sensor and a few others I probably forgot. Holding down the DSC/DTC button for 20 seconds turns it off (but as it is computer controlled it never really is off) If your trying for wheel spin don't waste your energy my 4.6is I upgraded when I rebuilt the engine some years back it was producing 450 hp (380hp at the wheels) on a Dyno. Acceleration was/is quick but No Wheelspin just launches Dave
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Hi Welcome to the Forum If you have a laptop loading your own Diagnostic suite isn't expensive or difficult and could save your sanity BMW 1.4.0 will set you back around £15 to £20 very simple and intuitive to use, INPA/ISTA BMW dealer type program again about £50 bit more of a Faff to get running and become competent with. I have both on an old lap top that I keep just for garage work long term they will save you a fortune for less than the cost of a single diagnostic session at a garage. What is the issue/issues your struggling with as the group may be able to help. Dave
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Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Your car is an E46 Compact there should be a Key access to the rear hatch some times it is hidden under the number plate light housing. Remember this lock isn't often used so may well need some help from WD40 or similar before it turns freely. Once you have access to the boot you can charge/replace the battery, if charging I would disconnect the terminals charge the battery then reconnect Good Luck Dave
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Hi Welcome to the Forum Might be an idea to try the guys who refurb turbos Google shoul find some in your area. Remember the first rule of business though "buy cheap Sell dear" so don't think you will get much Good luck Dave
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CAR WONT START HELP !!!!!!
Greydog replied to Destroyer-Dan's topic in The Owners Club General Discussions
Morning Daniel As the first code points to the Fuel Pump control module that is were I would begin, does the car turn over ? I take it the the fuses have been checked and the fuel pump relay checked or replaced? Also check the DDE pins for corrosion and continuity another contributor just had a similar issue with his X5 4.0d which he traced through the DDE to the power relay making intermittently. More of a concern are your last 2 fault codes, can the codes be cleared? What effects are you seeing (no turn signal no DRL etc) The 114 code could be as a result of a faulty DDE power relay or a faulty FRM/FCM The 117 code could also be a power relay issue Sorry can't give you an instant fix Dave -
Afternoon Dean When you drove the car the light went out due to the gas reaching sufficient pressure you probably noticed cool air as well. Get a price from Kwik Fit my son got has Toyota truck re-gassed there last year they have the correct computerised machine so difficult for them to get it wrong and only cost £50 if memory serves Dave
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Morning Dean When you say you tried re-gassing did you buy one of the DIY cans or did you get it re-gassed by a Garage or specialist ? The DIY bottles are often just top up quantities, if the system was way down then a top up can just possibly wouldn't be enough. A Garage/Specialist will have the correct equipment which vacuum's out the system evacuating all the old oil and gas, the vacuum will be held to measure for any leaks (no point in putting gas in if there is a leak) If it holds a vacuum then they enter the car details in the machine and it will charge the system with the correct volume of gas and compressor oil job done. A dealer will charge between £150 to £200 just for a diagnostic session, look for either a BMW Specialist or a Garage with a BMW capable code reader that way cost will be lower My money is still on the aircon system needing a service,hopefully there are no leaks through cracked seals the drier may need changing but a competent garage with the right kit can do that and recharge it. Dave
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Hi Sarahlou Welcome to the Forum Under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 with its amendments in 2015 there is NO 30 day limit. You need to document all the events and inform the supplying garage that you want either a satisfactory repair to make the car "suitable for purpose" or your money back. Make sure you keep the Finance Company up to speed. Good Luck Dave
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Hi Dean Welcome to the Forum Flashing AC light = low on gas, your AC system needs re-gassing Best advice I can give you is who ever told you it needed recalibrating take them off your advice list. All AC systems will lose a small percentage of gas each year so after 10 years yours is due a service/.re-gas even Kwik Fit do it at a reasonable price If you have Climate Control leave the AC on all year around let the Climate Control take care of cabin temp, if the AC is turned off for extended periods (months) seal can dry out and crack meaning leaks and added cost to replace the seals. Dave
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Morning Mike Great information Glad its fixed enjoy your beemer now Dave
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Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First your engine should be a straight six in Petrol or Diesel flavour. Obviously Petrol in your case as you have LPG fitted (if it is a V6 then it isn't a BMW engine) As a comparison my 2003 V8 4.6is with 157k on the clock shows an average 18.8 mpg mainly local over the last year I also tow a horse trailer, 300+ miles to a tank is average but when we visit our Daughter in Cannock if the Motorways behave with cruise on at 75 we have made the 360 mile round trip on a single "tank. Don't want to "teach Granny" but many things have an effect on MPG Roof Rack. a roof carrier left fitted can knock mpg for six, one of our sons has a bike rack it knocks around 20% off his mpg (he runs a diesel Peugeot) Tyres, are they in good condition correct for the car and properly inflated (no signs of odd wear) Suspension, worn suspension bushes on a heavy car like the X5 will cause odd tyre wear Brakes are they all in good condition and working correctly (no binding) Engine, is it starting straight away hot or cold? Does it tick over smoothly at around 5/600 rpm. No misfires or major leaks? A pressure test would help find your water leak Gearbox and the drive train (Transfer box and Diffs) when were they serviced no noises clunks or rattles. All of the above will contribute to poor MPG put any 2 or 3 together and it will wreck your economy. The 3 litre straight six is a very economical engine in the 5 series and 3 series cars, in the X3 and X5 AWD takes its toll as does the body weight so economy is similar to the V8's as the six has to work harder to achieve the same level of performance. Good Luck Enjoy your X5 Dave
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Hi Cameron (or should it be G'day) I would still get the battery checked for age and condition. I thought that you could enable/disable the functions through your idrive settings just a tick box exercise ? If that doesn't work. There is an old dealer trick of disconnect the battery, both leads for 30 mins then reconnect. This is like a hard reset on your computer, it will only be effective if the battery is good though. If that doesn't restore the settings then a diagnostic read is needed. You need someone (or buy your own) with a copy of INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.2 or another BMW capable reader. You can buy them now for less than the cost of a Diagnostic session at a Dealer. Dave
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Morning Steven There are a number of possibilities to check 1. Does the car go to sleep? 2. Battery age and condition. Even a new battery can fail as an example the OEM battery in the 4.6 died after 14 years I replaced it with an OEM same size same rating 9 months and issues Battery replaced 3 times under warranty before the issues stopped 3. Unplug the BM54 unit in the boot check the fuse in the Quadlock plug 4. What use is the car getting? many of us are not doing decent journeys so the battery never gets recharged properly. I use a Ctek charger once a month 5. Any other functions not working properly (eg Indicators not clicking but working, side lights staying on) could point to an LCM issue Do you have a BMW Diagnostic reader? A scan will quite probably help locate the problem Dave
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Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum I take it this is the check control message on the Idrive screen? First what use has the car been getting, many have been getting severely reduced use over the last year? It takes anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes driving to fully replace the starting discharge so lots of short journeys are one possible cause. Check the cigarette lighters are not stuck in and drawing current, check that there isn't a phone charger or accessory plugged in that is drawing power. Then either give the car a good run or fully charge the battery overnight. If the above doesn't do the trick then a session on a diagnostic reader may be needed, that or a slow patient process pulling system fuses and checking for discharge until the culprit is found. Hope this Helps Dave
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Morning David Two Diffs were used 3.23 = 1 in the manual and 3.91 = 1 in the Automatic The part number for the manual diff was 33107524318 it was used in the E87 E90 E90 LCI E91 E91 LCI E92 E92 LCI models The 2.0d has a final drive ratio of 2.35 =1 This would have an effect on acceleration and lower revs at cruising speeds which may drop the engine of its torque curve? How it would feel in practice ? The 325 and 328i models I believe used the 3.23 Diff The 3.0d I believe used the 2.35 Diff I believe they would all physically fit, it is purely the effect on performance to consider Good Luck I hope this helps Dave
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Misfire and associated problems with my 325i
Greydog replied to Bmw325i-dontknow's topic in BMW 3 Series Forum
Hi Welcome to the Forum The Diagnostic Session at the Dealer will be the most informative As for the codes you have all point towards Fuelling issues so I would tend to start there, when was the fuel filter replaced, has the fuel delivery pressure been checked Check the Vacuum lines very carefully they can fail internally. Check the looms that feed the Injectors and the Coil Packs for continuity Buy yourself a BMW capable code reader it will cost less than a Diagnostic session at the dealer. I have an old laptop (Win 8 ) which has BMW 1.4.0 plus INPA/ISTA (both give dealer level information) 1.4.0 was around £10 INPA/ISTA cost £30 when I brought them. I also have programs for Mercedes Volvo and Toyota on the Laptop. There is a Useful website www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the relevant section it has useful exploded diagrams that will show where stuff goes. Another USA site is Pelican Parts they have a lot of information with excellent "how to's) complete with pictures the only difference is the steering wheel is on the wrong side. Good Luck at the Dealer Let us know how you get on Dave -
Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum Seems like you have covered all the usual culprits. After fitting were all faults cleared down? Have the pins in the ECU been checked for continuity? Just in case its a corroded pin at the ECU Good Luck Dave
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The Eagles and George Micheal are on today
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Thanks for those encouraging words !!! Not The old girl threw a wobbly yesterday opened the door all the fans running flat out ?? FSR I thought, so changed it (yes I had a spare in the garage) made no difference ran a scan and it seems the HVAC unit has died. Perfect when the weather is turning warm 😂 Replacement on the way then I will take the original apart to see if it is fixable The old X5 wont let you rest 🤣
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I know where to come then, now your practiced 😂 Though the alternator on the 4.6 is water cooled just to make it more fun
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Morning Stu At least your all safe, angry, frustrated but safe. One of the most frustrating things in our modern world is waiting for recovery, we have been AA members for years (30+) and never really used them until the last 5 years. First occasion out with my son in his Toyota and it stopped (turned out to be the Diesel Pump) I rang the AA told them the truck would need recovery "OK sir help is on it's way" this is the service that says we fix stuff in 30 mins !! 2 hrs and several calls later an AA van turns up spent 10 mins and announced the Truck needed recovery and he would arrange it WTF !!! Total waiting time 9hrs !!! Second time the X5 main crank vibration damper failed 5 miles from home guess what it still took 9 hrs !!! Oh the answer to your question is "an X5 goes about 9 miles without an alternator and all the lights on 🤣 Dave
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Morning Ma773 Welcome to the Forum Can you open the boot with the key (check your handbook) I don't have an F30 but I am sure I read there is key release for the boot. The fault could be low battery voltage have you recharged the battery ? The charging points are under the bonnet. If that doesn't work you need a Diagnostic read by someone with a BMW capable reader. Your fault could be many things from a bad earth somewhere to a failing Footwell Module a diagnostic session can save you time and money Dave
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Morning Eric I was told some years ago that wire is a "transport connection" only used between the factory and the Dealership it should be taped out of the way but it seems many Dealers just leave it hanging ?? My sister inlaw asked if I knew what it should be connected to, I told her the "ejector seat" don't touch it Bless she told several friends their car could have ejector seats I haven't had the heart to tell her it was a wind up !! My brother inlaw thinks it's hilarious Dave
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Morning Martin And the garage didn't spot it when checking and balancing ??? Scary Glad its sorted Dave