Greydog

Morning Brian I also have INPA/ISTA which is OK with my brother in-laws 535d (2017 MY) but i.4.0 is much faster to load and easier to use than INPA (in my opinion) allows scanning of all modules plus registering to the chassis or re-programming if required and is perfect with my 2003 vintage X5. Just had a quick look at Ebay copies of 1.4.0 are selling at £25 (about $35 ?) including the lead. The old Dell laptop I have in the garage has Programs for Volvo, Mercedes, Subaru and BMW running plus I have a Maxi diagnostic tool for any waifs or strays who may need help. The 1st generation E38 had an OBD2 port on the centre console and a round diagnostic port in the engine bay I do recall reading something about linking pins in the engine bay port to allow full diagnostics from the OBD port (but then my old brain may be fuddled have to check) First (I guess you may have tried) the Dealer trick of clear all codes then disconnect the battery (both leads some touch the leads together to discharge any static) fully charge the battery and reconnect. Then re=scan for returning codes. Good Luck Dave

Hi Brian As you are going to be doing a fair amount of work on the car I would advise getting a copy of BMW 1.4.0 (Ebay or Google) it is cheap to get hold of easy to use and really very comprehensive (Attached are a couple of sample page) There are 3 pages of different control modules dependent on Model and Configuration all of which will log Fault Codes with the program when you interrogate a module the fault is explained in English (as an example my car has an Error code in PDC which when checked reads Centre right rear PDC fault) The codes you're seeing I think relate to Ibus communication and seems to indicate either a water damaged LCM or a failure there. Often a failure at the LCM blocks communication with other modules effectively looking like multiple failures (cars have been scrapped) BMW (and some others will tell you the only fix is a New LCM that then needs BMW Dealers to program. They are wrong you can fit and program a second hand unit even upgrade to newer units yourself using BMW 1.4.0 Added some E38 stuff that may be useful Dave 1163764210_E38_Driver_Information_SystemsIKE.pdf

Welcome to the Forum Brian Look forward to seeing the Project progress Dave

Hi Stephen Welcome to the Forum Take great care as your new wheels are staggered while your current set are square (same size all round) What car did your new wheels come from ? Make sure the Offset is correct front and rear The staggered 19" Wheels for the X1 should be Front 8J Rear 9J with 225 x 40 tyres Front and 255 x 35 Rear Tyre sizes are critical to maintain rolling radius front to rear or you can cause serious damage to the transfer case Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Totally bonkers that your dealer thinks it is OK !! I know it is quite common for new catalysers to smell until they have been through a few heat cycles (rotten egg smell) but often only smelt outside the car and when fully up to temp and stopped. I would be escalating this by involving BMW UK and printing a copy of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 and the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Both stipulate that " Goods to be of satisfactory quality" I think you have an argument that you have been reasonable in allowing time for the smell to dissipate. I would then tell the MD, Sales Director, Service Director in writing/email (copy BMW UK Customer Services) that you want a clear course of action and time scale to resole the issue. With a car of BMW "perceived quality" the current situation is unacceptable, basically fix it or supply a replacement Good Luck Dave

Morning Mark Clearly if there is a noise that wasn't there before then something is not OK But if you are happy that "The car Drives Fine" is all you need then what was your query? Personally I investigate any strange noises and lubricate/fix them as it is normally cheaper than waiting until whatever it is breaks Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Do you mean actual seat covers or seat protectors ? If it is replacements for the actual seat covers due to wear or damage then check www.realoem for part numbers then Google suppliers. If it is seat protectors then again Google is your friend Good hunting Dave

Turbo or Vacuum air leak would be top of my check list

Morning Mark Have you checked the Idrive for faults? Is it a Beep or a Squeak? Does it increase in speed with revs ? Could be Water Pump, Alternator, AC pump or a belt tensioner Dave

Morning Martin In the vibration in the steering or do you feel it more in the seat/car. I would get the rear tyres checked as well, if you had a front out of balance there is a good chance rear also are out. My son who is a tree surgeon often takes his pick up to a "hand car wash" twice he has had out of balance issues turns out the boys with the jet washers have actually knocked weights off!! In my experience tyre pressure can have an effect but with the x5 it is more tyre wear than balance (I run 36psi (2.5bar) There is a chart on the drivers door panel that gives tyre pressure for differing loads. Worth a try Dave

As an after thought have you had the rear tyres checked for balance ?

Hi Martin As it is speed related 50 to 70 I would look at 2 items First Tyres have they been fitted correctly is one out of round? I would jack up the car and spin the wheel. Viewed from the side is it round? Viewed from in front does it run true ? Next the Brakes it could well be a warped disc same basic test. Put a pointer just touching the surface of the disc and spin it I take it wheel bearings are OK Dave

Morning Martin Loads of questions 1. Does the vibration occur at a set road speed or is it constant? 2. Does it occur when slowing down ? 3. When were the brakes last checked ? 4. How many miles on the clock ? 5. Have the front suspension bushes been checked ? Tip check all bushes front and rear 6. Are the tyres original or have they been replaced ? Dave

Hi Aaron Welcome to the Forum What a dilemma, The BMW straight 6 tough as a tough thing but only with the correct maintenance, so with a car like the 7 history is paramount plus make sure all accessories and controls work as they should. The V8 is a good engine often misunderstood but again maintenance is critical plus some additional often overlooked items like the chain tensioner (I change mine every 20k) My used hard X5 4.6is is at 156k (he said tempting fate) So history history history and once in your possession over maintaining is better than none, check when the gearbox was serviced last (obviously all changes should be smooth and seamless) any jerks or lurches walk away I would expect running cost to be similar as the 6 will work a little harder to pull the 7 around, service costs brakes tyres etc will again be very similar. My personal choice the V8 or if you can find one without more miles than the Star Ship Enterprise the 3.0d was a gem Hope this Helps not Hinders Dave

Welcome to the Forum Tim Enjoy your new toy Dave

Hi Eric Check realoem (if you haven't already) put your Vin and it will bring up your model check the month/year of manufacture. As far as I know the 3 range started battery registration in 2006 just not sure which month?? Realoem will confirm battery size/type Seems your getting there now Dave

Morning Russell What a saga !! Still you get a new Footwell Module at no cost to you other than the frustration No doubt BMW will have told your garage only their Dealers can code the new FCM and register it to your car. Still maybe now you will get to enjoy your Beemer at last Good Luck Dave

Morning Roma Welcome to the Forum Never come across this one before ? Brake dust is normally confined to inside the wheel fronts are worse than rear's Pictures may help Dave

The BMW straight 6 Diesel is in my opinion one of the worlds great engines (and I don't own a diesel) plus the ZF box id serviced is just as strong. The stuff to check and double check are the bells and whistles inside make sure everything works test it twice I have owned Mercedes AMG (not Diesels and not S class) and they are great till something goes wrong then they will wreck your wallet Let us know how you get on Dave

Hi Paddy Welcome to the Forum Drifter huh !! Crazy boy Short answer your question in a word NO According to www.realoem.com (BMW online parts list) the 320d output shafts are L 86mm x D 25mm 330d output shafts L 94mm x D 27mm M3 output shafts L 102mm x D 44mm You may be better searching the specialist dismantlers for an M3 complete axel assembly or finding an engineering shop who could run up some M3 spec shafts 86mm long Good Luck Dave

Morning Cary Glad you found the part You either Google the part number to see who has it for sale as a replacement part. Or contact your local BMW Dealer "warning" the prices in the website are only indications and not updated very often so could be different. Also as your car is a classic the part wont be in stock so it will probably be ordered direct from BMW, when talking to the Dealer don't forget to ask about discount support for BMW Classic models. I would also check out Sunroof companies they may help. Good Luck Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum Are you aware of www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the sliding roof section you should find what you need there BMWtis is a BMW technical information site which is now subscription only Hope this helps Dave

Welcome to the Forum One our sons friends about your age runs a 2009 120d 3 door it has been ECU tuned so runs around 200hp goes like the proverbial and still gives 40mpg plus insurance isn't crippling But the range is huge 3 door 5 door coupe convertible the engines petrol or diesel as the old saying goes we pay our money and make our choice. As with any second user car condition is everything, check service history and recalls are tyres in good nick and same on all corners? Make sure everything works there wont be any cheap fixes so don't fall for the only a £5 on ebay If it was that easy why didn't the last owner do it? Good luck with the purchase Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum Use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look in the trim section, there you should find the part numbers for the trim sections your looking with the correct part numbers you know a replacement will fit. Then search the internet for replacements. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Darrell Welcome to the Forum When you say same serial number is that the manufacturers number or BMW Part Number ? Check realoem for part numbers Is your original radio Business or Professional ? I believe if you change the radio you need an enabling code (anti theft I am told) plus I believe the radio will need coding to the car Dave