Greydog

Hi Mark As John said in his reply with out hearing it almost impossible to diagnose. From your description you say you can hear it inside but not outside, have you opened the bonnet? As your car is a manual does the sound get louder or go when you put your foot on the clutch? Dave

Morning Mark Is the tapping noise heard when the car is stationary? Or only when moving ? Does it increase become faster with speed ? If not heard when the car is stationary (engine running) and revved then it probably isn't engine have the belts and pulleys been checked ? If it is only heard when moving then it could be something stuck in a tyre ? an issue with the drive train, gearbox Prop shaft rear axel. It could be a suspension bush or something loose and rattling (heat shield) is it always on the same piece of road More questions than answers I am afraid, but you would feel pretty dumb if you went to a Dealer (or any Garage come to that) and it is a stone in a tyre !! Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum My brother in law runs 5 series estates in diesel flavour on his 3rd. He has business in Holland so commutes into Europe a lot all his cars have run to around 300k so far without any major issues he makes sure that the oil is changed every 5k and has the gearbox serviced every 50k. His current car is 535d ecu tuned to 350+ hp it is demon quick but still gives 40+mpg and has covered so far just under 200k. There are always niggles with all makes just make sure everything works as it should every button every knob test them all. Dealers are expensive for any work (someone has to pay for the free coffee) due to high hourly rates, there is a register of BMW Specialists (Google will help) they are normally BMW trained so know their stuff and have the right kit plus more competitive rates. If you like tinkering at home then a BMW specific code reader is a real help I have INPA/ISTA and BMW 1.4.0 on an old lap top that live in the garage just for working on the cars. Good luck and if you buy it ENJOY Dave

Morning Dykie Nice car with a decent improved cold air intake, uprated inter cooler and exhaust down pipes and a remap you should be around 400+ hp Not sure what is meant by "cut back Exhaust" noisier?? Blow off valves ?? more noise, buy a Subaru Impreza WRX if you want those noises Dave

Morning Eric Some times you need to reset fault codes individually a "reset all codes" wont work and certain coding isn't possible with a "fault code registered" , once all codes are clear you should be able to register the battery. Dave PS Change that FSR before any more coding work

Hi Martin Yep that is the Luggage net, looks like you need a fatter dog 🤣 If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then look for the dog guard I think there should be one Dave

Hi Erfan I have not come across this code before. An internet search doesn't hold out any good news either as in several posts even BMW have been stumped and in one case had to replace the car!!! Let us know if you find a resolution Dave

Morning Merby Welcome to the Forum when you say "Dog Guard" do you mean the fabric luggage net that is part of the luggage compart meant cover? There is a metal dog guard available which fits closer to the edges, take a look at www.realoem.com and get the part number then I would search the net for a second hand one (much cheaper) Or get a fatter dog ☺️ then you can use the one you have Dave

Morning Russell That should not happen unless someone did something really dumb!! Remember the stop start function batteries are a special unit due to the cranking they have to support, also the battery must be registered to the car to allow correct charging (under or over charging can kill batteries very quickly) Footwell modules take a battering and there are several specialists out there who repair them so you should be OK. If not a second hand unit can be used but it will need coding to your car, not a difficult process with the right software. In fact the last one I did took longer to change the module than code it, at lot of garages and BMW will tell you it cant be done, they are wrong. Fingers crossed your back on the road now Dave

Morning Richard You are spot on petrol or diesel the Particulate filter is basically the same, plus a filter by it's nature is a screen to catch debris or contaminants so eventually it will clog up. Diesel motors just tend to do it faster because the produce more soot. Clever engineering jacks temperatures in the filter up to burn the soot, but as physics teaches us you cant destroy matter you just change it so in 10 years will what we have changed it into be a problem?? Come 2030 when our erstwhile leaders have decided that all new cars sold in the UK will be Electric at the moment these vehicles pay no road tax and sales are very low a around 500,000 total currently on our roads out of 32m cars 4.5m trucks and buses. So it will be a good few years yet before they shut petrol stations. I wonder what cunning schemes they are considering to replace the lost revenue from road tax? Plus as the EU as our nearest neighbour have a much longer timescale what will we do about all the cross channel traffic? There is no mention of the fact that rare earth mining (to provide material for our laptop, mobile phone and electric car batteries) is one of the dirtiest around, or that the raw materials are then shipped half way around the world to be processed, then shipped again to be turned into batteries?? Not exactly a green process plus at present there is no way to recycle these batteries. World wide transportation Air Sea Road and Rail is rated as the 5th highest polluter, makes me wonder how much emissions have dropped with reduced air traffic in the last year? It seems obvious to this old bloke that there are clearly other more important targets to reduce emissions but the car unfortunately is an easy target (especially if you were the inventor of the Boris Bike) Me I am a lot nearer 80 than I want to be so my program to save the planet is to keep driving my fat V8 in the knowledge that I am encouraging people to plant more trees and save the planet that way 🤣 Rant over Dave

Morning Nick Things are getting serious in the engine department, with your planned future power hike have you searched for a twin plate upgrade ? I had a highly tuned Cosworth Sapphire in the early 90's 400+hp the clutch was Sachs unfortunately as happened in those days the Cos was stolen !! So I can't give any information on clutch life never had it long enough. It was replaced with a Lotus Carlton that was the last manual car I owned. Good Luck keep us updated (well me really) Dave

Hi Andy Just put your hand carefully on the wheel centre when they are hot that is not normal. Something is binding/rubbing that shouldn't be. An almost £40k car and this year the Dealer has had it almost as long as you have this year that just isn't right. Good Luck Dave

Hi Bill Welcome to the Forum Transport Mode is normally set at the factory to restrict performance when new cars are readied for delivery. Don't know what code reader you are using or if it has the facility to turn it off ? Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum I would not be happy with the total BS from your Dealer, the symptoms you describe carry all the hall marks of sticking/binding callipers. Overheating brakes can lead to warped discs or worse damaged wheel bearings due to excess heat. As the car is so new I would be asking the MD of the dealership (not the Service Manager) in writing/Email how he intends to resolve the issue to your satisfaction. As the vehicle in it's current condition is totally unsuitable for purpose, under the Sale of Goods Act you could demand either your money back or a complete replacement. Don't be shy about telling him that also copy BMW UK Customer services in writing/Email. They may well huff and puff but stand your ground FIX IT, REPLACE IT, or MONEY BACK in FULL simple choice. They will try the fix it option first as it is the cheapest when they offer a "Courtesy" car make sure it is of equal quality to yours. Depending on how you feel you would be within your rights to reject repair on the grounds that you have no faith in Dealerships ability to diagnose and to a satisfactory standard. No new car should be supplied with rusty inefficient brakes in particular a BMW performance model Dave

Morning Hotrod1958 I don't have a Diesel but if the line is clear plastic I would think it is a return/overflow rather than on the pressure side, worth taking a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then check the Fuel sections. It is a BMW online parts list but has small exploded drawings that will help identify where stuff is and fits. Hard starting can be a number of things, once started how does it run? once warm how does it start? With the cold weather are the glow plugs OK (not unusual) How many miles on the engine ? If high (200k +) Is fuel pressure OK has the compression been checked? There were a number of issues around 2000/2004 starter motors the Magneti starters failed causing slow cranking worth checking Hope this helps Dave

Morning Adam The last manual car I worked on was my wife's 1600E in the mid 1980's, the last I owned and drove was a Lotus Carlton in 1992 !! So not had to think much about manual set ups for a lot of years. May be it's the crank boss that is a different diameter? Though if it is the 6 bolt pattern I wouldn't have thought so. Have you contacted companies like Advan (from down under) they have a strong reputation with BMW and may be able to give you advice or a steer in the right direction. If this is part of other upgrades it depends what you are trying to achieve, a lightened fly wheel won't give more power it will rev a little quicker (but then I may be teaching granny) They can also have down sides with lumpy tick over etc. Or may be you have already upgraded to colder plugs and coils, fitted a better intercooler and air intake and have an ECU upgrade with competition downpipes and Cats to aid exhaust. In which case you should be close to 400+ hp (Alpina Spec) Dave

Hi Adam As they both run the N55 engine I would think the flywheel is the same dual mass unit. Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Find the flywheel (engine section) then double click the part number and a list of other models it was used in will be shown, if the 1m is there then you will know for sure. Even if ECS lighten their flywheels I would guess they start with an original/pattern part that they lighten and balance so location pins and bolt pattern will be OEM Hope this helps Dave

Hi Eric I had an alternator issue with one of the Mercedes, symptom were battery dying overnight that was blamed initially on the battery. It was in fact the voltage regulator a diode had died allowing leak back when the engine was off draining the battery with the engine running alternator output was correct. I would get the alternator checked. I have also read that the IBS sensor and lead can cause issues. From your codes it seems the issue is in the charging system, just need to sort which code is the cause as the other 2 could be symptoms. I did read some time ago that the 2F80 code is a Kombi system clock plausibility issue. As I recall if the engine is turned off (current year/time stored in the DDE) then a coding session or reset to factory settings is carried out the system clock is now at model/year beginning so the DDE sees a negative amount of time between turn off and turn on, implausible so code 2F80 is triggered. I think that is it but the old grey stuff may be a bit crusty Dave

Morning Richard Always a problem with low profile tyres (and those are low). A couple of years or so back after a wheel refurb I fitted a set of Yoko's I on the X5 as they had a rim protecting lip formed on the tyre,. I am on my second set so nipped out to take a picture but the current set doesn't have the lip and I hadn't noticed !!! I did read somewhere about a company who make rim protectors but don't know how they fit or would look as I assumed my tyre was doing the job Looks as though your going to have to ultra careful Dave

Morning Antonio From a little reading it seems the Adblue tank on your car hold 17litres 😲 how much are you putting in? My money is on a reset being needed again from reading refill turn on the ignition (do not start the car) 30 secs minimum then off and start, or I seem to remember there being a recall for the Adblue systems ?? Then again it may just be my old brain failing and needing a reset?

Morning Russ You say it shows on Idrive do the front and rear sensors show? Or just the rear do the rear ones work? I ask in case the previous owner has had a crash and replaced the bumper and headlamps himself? A possibility If he has been a complete plank and cut wires has he stuffed them back somewhere in the engine bay. I would look carefully. Use www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then it will bring up your model. Then look for what you need check carefully several section Electrical, Vehicle Trim etc, they tend to hide stuff!! There should be information on replacement looms plus small exploded drawings to give clues on fitting Good Luck Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW will tell you that the only cure is a new module coded by them. Registering modules to the car is not the sole territory of BMW Dealers and is not complicated to do if you have the Diagnostic software. It is important for the footwell module FRM (FCM) and the binnacle IKE as the vehicle stores mileage in 2 places if they differ then a tamper dot will appear next to the distance covered in the binnacle. If the tamper dot doesn't bother you then most of the functions will work with second hand unit if you don't have the software or don't know anyone who has. Refitting a repaired module obviously avoids this issue plus will normally give you a warranty. However second hand units can be used and re-registered to your car, no warranty clearly but with the right software registering to your car is often faster than the time taken fitting it. Registering all modules ensures they all work in unison without conflict. They will all work without just some will have reduced functions and of course in the case of the IKE and FRM control vehicle history. It also allows you to upgrade if you wish Dave

Hi Guy Wow a manual E53 they were like the proverbial Rocking Horse poo !! Have a look at www.realoem.com it tells me that the same manual box was used in the E60/61 and E83 models but I guess you will still need some head scratching making sure it will fit Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Which box ? GM or ZF ? Where are you in the country ? I would use Google to find an Auto box specialist near you then check if they have BMW experience

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car Xdrive will be needed if this is summer !!! Enjoy your Beemer Dave