Greydog

Welcome to the Forum Archiebald70 Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search for what you need if they are there you will have the part number and a feel for cost in $ Dave

Morning Bharath That is very long winded, I would start by checking the sensor (if you haven't already) just in case there is a poor connection. Check online to see if there is a continuity value you can check with a multi meter. If the fuses are OK and wiring checks out plus if the boot release on the fob still operates, then consider changing the sensor. Dave

Morning Michael Your first code refers to the O2 sensor the second just confirms that the ECU isn't seeing the expected values from the sensor. Sadly many garages no longer fix/repair anything they read codes and change parts, faster for them (not to say more profitable) So back to your codes PO136 remember this tells you why the light is on as it isn't seeing the correct values it does NOT mean the sensor is broken. Things that can trigger the sensor are (1) Frayed wiring in the loom leading to it (2) Exhaust leaks ahead of the sensor (3) Inlet manifold leaks or vacuum leaks on the inlet side (4) Rusty leaking boss that the sensor mounts to. PO141 Confirms that the values are out of sync and should clear once the problem is repaired. I would begin at the sensor, is it correct for your car? Did you check www.realoem.com to make sure you have the correct sensor or is it a "generic" one assuming it is correct then start testing for leaks, inlet and exhaust, test the wiring carefully looking for any sign of chafing or fraying, with a multi meter test for continuity. Online you should be able to find the test procedure for the sensor and the correct values. Good luck Dave

Hi Nick Welcome to the Forum Did the garage/tyre supply place should have reset your system? The system triggers if there is a 25% difference in tyre pressures so first check all pressures make sure they are correct, then there is a reset sequence in your hand book (or You Tube) Dave

As long as it has a good history and no obvious issues "smoke, rattles, leaks" etc you should be OK. Auto or Manual ? Make sure all the switches and buttons work and do what they should, don't believe "aircon needs a regas stories" try and budget for suspension bushes. Dave

Hi Paul What is high mileage? One of our sons friends runs a 320d touring 2006 vintage it has an uprated intercooler and pipercross air filter EGR and Swirl flaps deleted and an ECU Remap he doesn't have a garage (flat dweller) so he and my son use "Dads" garage to do oil and filter changes use up my polish and other stuff, they do restock the beer fridge though. If anything his car is over maintained (but better that than none) his car has 270k + on the clock and around 220hp and 500nm torque very quick mid range and still 40+ mpg on a run. Dave

Morning Paul Is your engine broken ? or are you looking for more power ? If your current engine is in good condition an ECU Remap will give a considerable increase without any pain (well a little to your wallet) From memory the power output of the 2012 motor is similar to yours and you would still have all the fun of convincing everything to work together. Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum Not seen this done but it should be possible but I can think of loads of parts that will be needing upgrading. The straight 6 is heavier than the 4 pot So would need uprated Suspension, Brakes, will the steering column be affected? Engine management, fuel system and pumps, Will the gearbox cope with the additional torque? Will the Diff ?? Then the new DDE will need convincing to work with the other stuff in the car, interesting project but I don't think straight forward Dave

Morning Eric The indicator light beside the gear selector should go out after about 10/15 mins, allowing all systems to shut down sequentially. If the relay is hot/warm then something is energising it or probably the internal resistance is failing allowing the start/charge system to pull current or the starter could be on it's way. As the relay is the cheap bit I would replace it first, if the replacement energises then either the starter or possibly the CAS unit has a fault. The Magneti Marelli starter on my first X5 failed first symptoms were slow cranking even with a charged battery, then battery drain issues. Good spot Dave

Morning Adam Your issue could be a flap sticking/broken or the FSR (final stage resistor) starting to go. Take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the relevant sections you will get small exploded drawings which will help identify where stuff fits. Tip if plastic clips are involved buy spares before starting Good luck Dave

Morning Eric My first piece of advice is invest in some Diagnostic software or equipment that will read the BMW codes, I use PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 on an old Laptop I also have INPA/ISTA on the same laptop. There are several others these days I have read iCarsoft, Autologic work well and Carly for BMW (though that is a subscription program) Good diagnostics will narrow issues right down quickly, your mirror issue may well be down to just the micro switch inside the mirror if 1 mirror is affected neither will work correctly. The micro switch is located by a small plastic tag and a screw the tag breaks and the switch moves super glue works crude but effective. Plenty of information on the net. Use www.realoem.com to find part numbers when buying replacement parts Good luck Dave

Afternoon Bharath Check your handbook for fuses and their location. As for reading the fault codes you will either need a BMW specific code reader or software such as INPA/ISTA, Carly for BMW (subscription) Autologic, there are quite a few these days or a friendly local BMW specialist or maybe a member on here who could check the fault codes. Then of course there are the BMW Dealers but they do know how to charge 😈 Dave

Don't take it anywhere muddy 😁 If you check www.realoem.com if they are available they should be there Dave

Hi Henry I have just seen this, have you tried www.realoem.com It is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box that will call up your model. Then search if there is a part you should find it there. Agree with you seems nuts to not have a part?? Dave

Hi Bharath Welcome to the Forum I don't have the function but have seen others with it (brother inlaws 535d touring) though he tends to pop the lid using his key fob most of the time. I take it you have done the normal fuse checks? If there are no issues it could be the sensor a code read seems sensible to isolate the issue. Dave

Hi Louise Seems like your getting the run around the attached is from www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list the prices are in $ as it is a US site the drawing may help you understand the parts that can be changed. It seems the first garage are claiming that someone else had tampered with the lights? So 1st question "Did you buy the car from them?" in which case the sale of goods act will help you as you have a right to expect the goods to be of merchantable quality (clearly not if the lights don't work) Their estimate of a "Week or So" seems to open ended for me how are you supposed to get around? Document everything is my best advice. Your headlamps have a ballast and 2 control units which can be changed but you will need the correct Bi xenon Ballast and control units (realoem is the tool to make sure you do) 645 Headlamp.pdf

Hi Danno The M should have around 400+ hp so should be pretty lively!! If you want to talk to someone about a re-map try BW Chip tune in Uxbridge my brother in law has used them several times they are BMW specialists so should understand what can and can't be done ENJOY Dave

Morning Neil Take a look at realoem.com that should help Dave

Morning Richard As I understand BMW introduced "Smart Charging" in around 2005/6 (could be earlier in some markets) this seems to coincide with Stop/Start systems and the introduction of AGM batteries. The smart charging system is only supposed to charge the battery when it needs it. As I understand if the battery is either wrong type or not registered everything works but the battery will become over charged which can cause system damage and or kill the new battery pretty quick. On my brother inlaws E61 I used INPA/ISTA just tell the car it has a new battery size/type and click OK, we followed a good old Youtube how to. I am not aware of there being another way (onboard system), that doesn't mean there isn't though as I haven't checked. BMW say it is to help reduce emissions and extend component life!! The old cynic in me says they want to keep hold of your wallet for longer, thankfully my X5 predates most of this stuff. Dave

Morning Jim On his 5 series there are 2 looms left and right that run up past the hinge point to connectors behind the headlining we gently prised down the rear of the headliner (put a small block of wood in to hold it down) Unplugged the right side used a couple of pins as probes to check continuity found 3 suspect cables and repaired them. My brother inlaw later found out that BMW do repair sections so not an unknown issue. His car was the E61 LCI but I wouldn't think the E46 is that different Good Luck Dave

Come on Jim a job anyone with double jointed fingers like a Troll that can hold like mole grips can do. Most of the loom damage I have seen tends to be just behind the hinge point under the roof trim. The first time I repaired one I just re-soldered the broken wires the repair lasted about a month?? The next attempt I cut out around 2" and soldered in new cable protected by heat shrink, this one was still good 2 years later when the brother inlaw sold the car. Dave

Hi Jim Have you lost the wiper and wash or just the wiper? After the stuff you have changed it would point to the loom not an unknown issue. Dave

Hi Paul Scary thought but have you tried BMW they do have discounts particularly on classics Dave

Don't you start with "I was born in 1962" Richard 😁 you can add the 1600e to your own list of "i wish I could have kept that cars" Dave

Afternoon Jim The 3 drawings are from realoem the centre one shows the seat frame and bowden cable that connects the lock to the release. Is it both seats or just 1 ? left or right both are in the drawings. Have you tried pressing against the seat while releasing in case someone has jammed something in there maybe to stop a rattle (seen that before) Dave