Greydog

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum Thanks for the heads up a good find Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum I think you may have posted in the wrong spot, if I am reading your post correctly it says X3 not 3 series However BMW like to place the battery in the boot under the floor, if they are charged or jump started directly at the battery damage can be caused to the electrical system. The car should be charged at the posts under the bonnet or jump started there as well. I hope that is the case with your X3 and that it hasn't been jump started at the battery. Normally disconnecting the battery negative post first then live (some people touch the 2 terminals together to discharge any static) and leaving it for 30 mins then reconnecting 30 mins is important as the car takes a while to self test and shut down systems. Reconnect Live first then Negative this should reset everything. If not then you will need more help as your car has several computers that need to see/communicate with each other. May be a member near you who has a Diagnostic program like Inpa/Insta or PA Soft 1.4.0 or a reader capable of fault reading a BMW can help? Fingers crossed it is simple Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Clearly for some years there has been no oil leaking onto the sump or it wouldn't have rusted. Has it come from a part of the country that has used lots of road salt or coastal salt spray perhaps? With regard to your question about the MOT. In your picture the under guards have been removed to access the engine. For MOT they would be in place so the sump would not be visible, MOT inspectors are not allowed to remove guards to inspect cars/vans so unless an oil leak is obvious (dripping) it won't be reported on the MOT, some inspectors qualify their inspection by commenting that covers were in place. All that doesn't alter the fact that your sump doesn't look good and me personally I would change it, Doesn't have to be new just in good condition so check Ebay and the specialist BMW breakers. Dave

Morning Thomas Welcome to the Forum What delivery time have they given ? It maybe worth a phone call to see if they can fit it ? If you don't try you will never know Fitting after delivery just takes the car off the road while its fitted, plus the cost of course which will probably be higher at the dealer Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Morning Antonio These are things for you to physically check in your car that may help find the source of the rattle. Once you find it you have to decide whether you are capable of fixing it or whether you are going to pay a garage. Inside the car you should have a sliding section you can slide forward to cover the sun roof often a cause of rattles if loose in its runners 1. Sunshade/Inner roof closed, if you slide it closed is there a rattle ? If not OK 2. Sunshade open/Inner Roof rattles With someone else driving feel all around edge of the sun roof pressing on the runners etc to see if you can stop the noise 3. Sunshade/Inner roof open Sun Roof closed is there a rattle ? 4. Sunshade/Inner roof open Sun Roof open is there a rattle ? 5. Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof tilt, Is there a rattle ? 6. Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof open is there a rattle ? Dave

Morning Roz The splash guards/under trays are only at the front, a 1 piece panel between the bumper and the sump guard/brace plate. I have had 2 E53 X5's and seen the underside of a good few more but never seen covers beyond the back of the sump. There are heat shields above the exhaust ? Do you mean those Dave

Morning Ross Rust around the screen can only be sorted with the screen removed, rust and paint repairs will be your biggest job/cost and you seem to be on top of that. For other spares and replacement parts use www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list put your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model, then search the relevant sections. Once you have the part number or numbers you can search for the best cost/supply route, don't dismiss BMW they do offer some good discounts for the older models. Good luck with the restoration Dave

Morning Jim Checked all the usual suspects Shocks, springs, spring mounts, antiroll bar mounts and drop links ? Has the car been lowered ? Diff mounts OK, Drive shafts and Wheel bearings OK Thats your weekend sorted 😁Hope this more help than hinderance Dave

Morning Samantha Check www.realoem.com its an online parts list when you have located the part/number double click it and it will bring up a list of alternatives. Once you have the part number try the BMW specialist breakers and of course Ebay. The fact you have had 3 seems to point to other issues, loom switch relays, have you had the motor checked? Good luck Dave

Morning Ros Welcome to the Forum I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com (BMW online parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the section to find what you need. It will give part numbers that will help if searching for replacements. There are also small exploded drawings that will help with what fits where. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Neil Lucky boy My neighbour works for BMW (not the dealerships) he and his wife both get company cars changed 3 or 4 times a year, he had an X5M50d 2018/19 his consumption was mid to late 20's though on a trip to Devon he managed to get into the high 30's. Compare that to my X5 4.6is average 18 around town 22/23 on the motorway I think that the M50 is pretty impressive considering the performance, for what it's worth for everyday he preferred the 4.0d. Enjoy your M50 Dave

Morning Antonio Welcome to the Forum Personally not a fan of sun roofs so I looked for a car without, had to many issues with leaks and rattles with a Range Rover years ago. Here are some things to check. Sunshade/Inner roof closed, no noise Sunshade open/Inner Roof rattles With someone else driving feel all around edge of the sun roof pressing on stuff runners etc to see if you can stop the noise Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof tilt, no noise Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof open no noise Dave

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum It sounds as though the hand brake switch is sticking or loose, it should be located under the centre consul at the back of the hand brake. Some contact cleaner may solve the problem Dave

Hi Paulie Welcome to the Forum Not much to chose between Petrol and Diesel at the pumps just now and I don't know what the real world average would be between a 118d and a 1.5i Petrol However I would assume about 10mpg in favour of the diesel, also assuming Road Tax and Insurance is similar then your £350 would buy around 3500 extra miles in the diesel. If the £350 is important stay with the diesel Dave

Hi Martin Modern diesels as has been said are not happy with short journeys, there will be increased fuel consumption as the EGR clogs and the DPF will not regenerate due to never reaching a high enough temperature. So a lot of the folks you see in the mornings will without doubt have issues and most will not have a clue why just complain about the bills. It scares me how ignorant a lot of people are about their cars, some don't even know where the bonnet release is !! My youngest son is a tree surgeon and runs a Toyota Pickup Diesel, 90% of his journeys are local 10 maybe 15 miles. he had many issues then the service manager at the Toyota dealer changed. The new guy said a couple of times a month give it a good blast on the motorway that ensures the DPF regenerates the EGR he cleans a couple of times a year. His truck is a 2.2 diesel his average mpg is 31 which isn't to bad for a big 4x4 which is often towing a chipper he has had this one 4 years and it's covered 79k. The newer 1 series petrol engines are very economical and worth considering dont know why they attract higher road tax though Dave

Hi Ray Still struggling then I don't recognise the E99 but E90 to E93 were/are 3 series cars after the code changed to F30 + and G28 + which would explain the different connectors and loom on the seats First check the seat for part numbers which should help identify which model it came from. Then it's down to detective work look for information on Pinout for (a) Your car and (b) the seat you have that way you can identify which wires do what. Once you know what each does you may be able to either buy connector that matches your cars loom (only if the pinout information tells you all functions are covered) a morning changing connectors on the seat may fix things. If the pinout show the same functionality seat heaters and airbags but no power adjustment it may be possible to bring your own power for the seats through an independent fused spur again using a matching connector to keep it all tidy. Dave.

Hi Clive It isn't just the heater pads it is also the control switches and control relays, up to around 2005/6 BMW like most makers fitted a complete loom at build then for some reason (may have been to make it more difficult to upgrade without their input ££) they started fitting looms which then require a sub-loom that connects certain accessories. I am not sure if heated seats come into that category or not, take a look at realoem and check if there is an upgrade kit. Look under the seats to check for Connectors taped out of the way, if they are there chances are the rest is in place as well. Good luck Dave

Hi Paul Still can't see the Video message says missing Codec not sure if that's on my laptop or your Vid !! You need to take out the binnacle with the speedo rev counter etc, the connectors are on the back. Take a look at www.realoem.com either search your car or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the relevant section it will have small exploded drawings that should help. Also look at www.pelicanparts.com an American site but apart from the steering wheel being on the wrong side the cars the same they have some brilliant "How To's" with pictures there may be something there that helps. Fuses are in the glove box awkward to see but worth checking Dave

Morning Rasta I would take it up with the dealer why did they carry out this change without asking the vehicle owner YOU that is unauthorised work. Parking lights are just as much a requirement in the UK as the EU I would be telling not asking them that they should return the car in the same condition as it was when they took it in ie: Parking Lights working. Can you not activate them through the I-drive ? On my car (older) the light switch has to be in the Auto position then stop turn off the engine remove key and open the drivers door then operate the indicator stalk to the side you want the lights. Dave

Cant see the video see answer above in your other post Dave

Morning Robert As it is a 2021 car I would ask the Dealer Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum First has anything else been done to the car ? Jump Start any work carried out? I take it you have checked connections and fuse? flickering could be a loose connector, worth checking the free stuff first. Then there is the old trick of disconnecting the battery for 10 mins or so then re-connecting (acts like a hard reset with a computer) If you dont have a loose connector, I would disconnect spray with contact cleaner and reconnect same with the fuse. If none of this works talk to people like Cartronix, BBA Reman, ECU testing all are experienced with repair of electronic bits, if you get your own instrument cluster repaired you should have no issues. If you get a replacement it will need coding to the car otherwise you will get a tamper dot next to the mileage. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Clive Check the Vac lines before spending your hard earned on a new sensor. You can test resistance on the sensor (just google) to see if it is down. Take a look at www.realoem.com you should find small exploded drawings of the inlet vacuum system that will help. Dave

Hi Chris Welcome to the Forum Lordy you have had a tale of woe What is the service history like? Calliper's seizing I have known that on several Marques normally due to brake fluid not being changed to schedule, but timing chain on the M57 engine that is a rare occurrence they normally are as tough as old boots, my brother inlaw has 5 series touring on his 3rd all have gone well past 200k. Which is why I question it's history. Ride on low profile tyres particularly run flat's is again a well known comment not limited to BMW my AMG's were hard. I take it your on 20" wheels non rum flats will help or you could go to 19" wheels which would help more. My winters are 18" 255 x 55 and ride is vastly different, though they are not on the car due to us not really having a winter for years 😁 There is a Register of BMW Specialists in the UK just Google and find the one nearest you Dave

Glad your enjoying the drive, if not the music 😁 BMW bongs are "wallet alerts" As soon as you have a diagnostic program you can turn off the (code out) the tyre warnings so you don't see or hear them. One push of the DTC button should put you in winter/snow mode it turns off part of the traction control just remember every time you turn off it resets. I am not sure if you can turn off the tyre warning in onboard settings with your model, worth an explore Dave