Greydog

Hi William Welcome to the Forum As with any used car History History History when viewing the car make sure the engine is cold before first start, when running listen for any odd noises check under neath for any signs of leaks. While it is warming up make sure everything works every button every knob every accessory, inside check condition of seats, carpets etc. Check tyre condition (get under) and check inner edges, on the test drive make sure there are strange noises from the suspension or drive train. When back check it all again. As for common faults, no major faults but suspension bushes start to go at about 70 to 80k which will cause odd tyre wear. Not a fault as such and common to all 4x4 cars and particularly on heavy SUV's. Also with a staggered wheel set up (wider rear tyres) The front/rear rolling radius has to be within certain tolerances if not then damage can be caused to the transfer box. Make sure that front and rear tyres are the same type and make and in good condition you don't want to be putting your hand in your pocket for 4 new tyres after a month or so. When test driving reverse slowly on full lock any jerking or snatching could indicate a damaged transfer box or a tyre issue front rear out of tolerance, also when stopping open the door or window and as you shut down listen carefully for a clicking noise an indication of a worn gear in the transfer box. Depending on your mechanical skills if signs of Transfer case issues are there either walk away or use it to negotiate a better deal. Engine (I am assuming Diesel) should be smooth and quiet any rattles particularly at start up walk away the BMW engineers decided to move the timing chain to the rear of the engine?? If the V8 again smooth and quiet no rattles. With regular oil changes there should be no issues, same with the ZF gearbox (ZF say service every 80 to 100 km 60k miles) with service the box is tough and long lasting Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum As with any used car History History History plus something I learned to look at 10+ years ago is the MOT history you can learn a lot about how it has been maintained by the advisories list and work required. Make sure everything works as it should and I mean everything if all good then ENJOY My brother inlaw runs 530d Touring he is now on his 4th he has a business based in the Netherlands and commutes via the tunnel all his cars have run to around 250k before change all have been ECU Tuned so he can surprise the odd Porker driver on the autobahns. His current car is a 535d well over 300bhp and 600+nm of torque make it's mid range acceleration quite something while still returning mid 40's on a run better if he isn't driving. So there is my experience of the BMW 3.0d. As for short journeys even newer petrol engines now have DPF technology to help emissions which , one of my sons is a tree surgeon so most of his work is local and towing a chipper. His Toyota pickup has the 2.2d engine (he is on his 2nd) this one started to loose performance, off to the Dealer EGR cleaned and back to normal for a few weeks then it started again the service manager at the dealers told "needs an Italian Tune up" what that said my son and where do I have to go? The guy laughed and said take it out a couple of times a month and rag it for 20 mins minimum to make sure the DPF regeneration is started. He has had no more issues in the last 3 years. Bit of a ramble but I hope it helps Dave

Hi Stephen Welcome to the Forum I thought there was an Amp in the back (could be wrong and imagining stuff) If you are not aware there is an online BMW parts list www.realoem.com, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the relevant section there will be small exploded drawings of each component and indications of where they fit. Obvious stuff checked? No plugs loose fuses blown? Good Luck Dave

Hi Dan There are 2 relays to check/change one is the Fuel Pump Relay the second is the Power Relay Lights, you say you have changed to BMW angel eyes, did you change the complete headlamp unit? Just changing the bulbs to LED may give a bulb failure warning unless they are fitted with a resistor (most are) but wouldn't have an effect on the FRM. The FRM is a control unit not a power supply it controls many systems and acts as a confirmation gateway for others. Getting it working will eliminate a few more faults, often fault codes cant be reset while there is a fault in an associated unit. As you have a non starting car I would pull the FRM, contact one of the repairers and send it off for checking and repair. If you can stick with the original you avoid all the re-programming issues. If it cant be repaired then a replacement will be needed, BMW and some Specialists will tell you that "Only BMW can program a unit" Well they would I suppose. They are wrong and you already have the kit to do it (just another School day) Dave

Drinking to much on a stag do !!! Never, Well not that I remember 🤣 The only thing left is the Power Steering pump/control unit you will need a BMW Specialist or Dealer to check that. Dave

Morning Dan The phrase "All the Gear but no idea" springs to mind 🤣 Still the other old phrase is "Every day is a school day" so opportunity to learn First your FRM footwell control unit seems a consistent Fault it could well be causing the knock on faults with DSC Radio and many other parts. This where you have 2 courses of action (1) talk to ECU Testing or BBA REMAN both companies repair control units for a living if your FRM is repairable it is a simple job send it off then put it back. If it can't be repaired then I would use Google to search for a replacement with the correct part number. Now the Fun Part a replacement unit will need registering to your chassis or you will get a tamper dot by the mileage, the car will run fine without registering just the dot. Second your DDE fault is consistent with no comms to the Fuel pump control unit. Once the FRM has been changed check the fault codes again to see if the Fuel Control Unit can be cleared. If it has all good. If not then you need to investigate the fuel supply system further With the wiring diagrams have you read the Functional Description (next Tab) it may help you understand what your looking at. Dave

Sorry Alex I think you are ignoring the biggest possible cause which is MISMATCHED TYRES? Run flat tyres are great but mixing tyre types/makes across an axel could well be your problem. BMW (and other manufacturers) strongly advise against mixing tyres on and axel 2 Bridgestone on the front 2 of another make at the rear OK but not on an axel. I have never heard of Churchill tyres so have to assume it is a cheap import from Asia or similar. It's construction (materials used) will be different to the Bridgestone so its rolling dynamics will be different too. The tyre footprint is about the size of a saucer and is our only connection to the road for steering and braking If it were me I would either talk to the supplying garage and tell them you want matching tyres or just change the tyres Dave

Morning Dan When you say you removed the Module and checked it, how did you check it? A visual check won't do it, you need a good multi-meter and preferably an oscilloscope. Inside the module there are printed circuit boards easily damaged by water ingress. One 10 pence diode failure kills the whole unit. Fuses are a simple visual check Relays a little different but can be checked with a meter and a 12v supply. As the relays are cheap I would change them it could save a lot of searching My own FRM/FCM failed earlier this year, first symptoms were intermittent faults then total failure and no communication with the unit the knock on effects were to my Climate Control unit. I changed the FRM/FCM and registered it to my chassis all good for a couple of days. The warm weather arrived and I discovered the Climate Control unit was fried too. So had to change that as well. Your JBE still needs checking as well Dave

The fact you say the "Tyres are edgy" would indicate to me that they are worn oddly on the edges? Are the tyres still the OEM Bridgstone or Michelin runflat type? You could be experiencing "tramline effect" where the tyre follows imperfections in the road surface runflat tyres are known to be quirky when near to the end of their life. Are all the tyres the same make and type? Does it always happen at the same piece of road? Are the tyres correctly inflated? The drag from an under inflated tyre can be very high. I doubt the mechanic would check anything he would only change the part as tasked, with regard to brakes if a calliper sticks brakes will work fine but that brake will bind pulling steering to that side which is why I said feel the wheel at its centre after driving if one is warm/hot then that could be the issue. As I said in my original post virtually impossible to diagnose without feeling it. Dave

Morning Alex An almost impossible to answer question as the diagnosis relies on "your feel" for the issue, so without actually feeling it we are all guessing. So things that I would check carefully (1) Tyres, are they a decent make, all the same make, wear rate even and correct pressure's front and rear. (2) Suspension, has it been checked for worn or damaged bushes. (3) Tracking, when you have had the tracking done was it Front only or 4 wheel alignment? (4) Power Steering, has the power steering unit been checked? (5) Brakes, are they binding or rubbing, a sticking calliper front or rear or handbrake can cause the issue you describe. After a drive put your hand on the wheel centre if it is hot/warm it could be where your problem is. Let us know how it goes Dave

Hi Graham Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model. Just had a quick look and Part number 51141866610 is the badge with 635 CSi and was correct for your year. Dave

Hi Ali Welcome to the Forum Don't waste any more your hard earned cash either find someone with a BMW capable Diagnostic program to scan the car for faults, or a BMW Specialist near you who will have the right kit to scan the car. A drivetrain malfunction can be triggered by many things and will cause restricted performance so get it scanned. Dave

Hi Ben Welcome to the Forum In answer to both your posts yes Cats can clog quite easily especially if oil or another contaminant has got into them. Question do you hear a hissing if you turn off the engine? Does the car burn/loose oil with out apparent leaks? Wonder why his mechanic needed to clean the cats? An alternative could be aftermarket cat's a good exhaust specialist should be able fit them. When I tuned my Volvo T5's I used to fit a 3" downpipe and 300 cell cat to let the engine breath out when power was above 350hp. Cost wont be as much as you think Dave

Hi Steven Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the steering section you should find a list of part numbers, if you double click the blue part number it will call up a list of compatible part numbers and models they were used in. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum I would say it is the Catalysts burning in should clear soon My last Mercedes smelt like rotten eggs my wife banned me from parking it in the garage 😂 Dave

Hi Skye Welcome to the Forum I think there should be a label or pressed mark on the reservoir saying use ATF. Most good Auto Factors should be able to supply a compatible top up Dave

Hi Martin Currently your wider rear set of wheels will have a different Offset to the front bringing the tyre wall near to the wing outside edge. Put a front wheel on the rear and while it will fit the tyre wall will be set back from the wing edge inside the wheel arch. The simple solution is to fit spacers at the rear to achieve the same visual effect. Hope this makes sense Dave

Morning Martin Sounds like you have had a torrid time on our wonderful roads First your staggered wheels are more for looks than a necessity so you can fit the same size wheels/tyres front and rear, if you want to maintain the current looks you may need spacers at the rear to achieve the full arch look the staggered set up does. Also make sure the offset is correct you can find it stamped on the inside of your OEM set Wheel Tyre sizes recommended for your car are as follows 225/35R20 90Y 225/40R19 89Y 225/45R18 91Y 225/50R17 94W The above are Front axel sizes but could be used front and rear to achieve a square set up, also remember that the standard fit is Run Flat you can safely fit Non Run Flat tyres to a Run Flat rim but will need to make some provision for a puncture (my X5 with 20" staggered set up has has a skinny emergency spare but I carry tyre goo and a small compressor) If replacing Wheels remember a non runflat rim can't safely take a runflat tyre. Also make sure the offset is correct you can find it stamped on the inside of your OEM set If you maintain a staggered set up the rears would be as follows 255/30R20 92Y 255/35R19 92Y 255/40R18 95Y 255/45R17 98W Dave

Looking Good Phil Welcome Back Dave

Morning Daniel The FRM is the footwell control module, it has several functions to control but as many other control units also acts as a gateway for communication. The JBE (Junction Box Electronics) is more important there are 3 types 1 for cars with Kline comms and 2 for cars with Dcan comms. You need to first check www.realoem.com and find out the part number for your car. Then check the unit in your car is the correct unit for your chassis the same applies to the FRM. You seem to have ISTA up and running both units will require coding to your Vin Dave

Hi I responded to your other post but here goes with this one First don't discount the ECU check all the pins in the ECU are clean and not corroded same applies to the ECU connector use a good quality electrical contact cleaner not something like WD40 The ECU is in communication with many other control units and if signals are not received it can cause all sorts of issues. So it is very possible for the ECU to still allow the engine to run (badly) even while not getting information from all the inputs it needs. Some of the issues you report point towards a failing LCM (lights staying on etc) To be sure you need a proper diagnostic session if you can't DIY there is a Register of BMW Specialists just Google it there should be one close by. Dave

Hi Shapero Welcome to the Forum Your X5 should have the 218 bhp engine a 6 speed ZF gear box with 3 settings Drive Sport and Manual originally it should get to 60 in around 8.5 seconds not many in it's class could live with that. So your question is "it's like it doesn't have traction" is that a lack of power? Or a drive train issue? to be sure you need the codes read by someone with a BMW specific software to be sure and save yourself spending out on stuff you don't need to. Check all the fuses You don't have traction control as such it is DTC Dynamic Traction Control which takes information from the ABS sensors (measuring wheel speed/slip) the steering angle sensors Yaw sensor and a few others I probably forgot. Holding down the DSC/DTC button for 20 seconds turns it off (but as it is computer controlled it never really is off) If your trying for wheel spin don't waste your energy my 4.6is I upgraded when I rebuilt the engine some years back it was producing 450 hp (380hp at the wheels) on a Dyno. Acceleration was/is quick but No Wheelspin just launches Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum If you have a laptop loading your own Diagnostic suite isn't expensive or difficult and could save your sanity BMW 1.4.0 will set you back around £15 to £20 very simple and intuitive to use, INPA/ISTA BMW dealer type program again about £50 bit more of a Faff to get running and become competent with. I have both on an old lap top that I keep just for garage work long term they will save you a fortune for less than the cost of a single diagnostic session at a garage. What is the issue/issues your struggling with as the group may be able to help. Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Your car is an E46 Compact there should be a Key access to the rear hatch some times it is hidden under the number plate light housing. Remember this lock isn't often used so may well need some help from WD40 or similar before it turns freely. Once you have access to the boot you can charge/replace the battery, if charging I would disconnect the terminals charge the battery then reconnect Good Luck Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum Might be an idea to try the guys who refurb turbos Google shoul find some in your area. Remember the first rule of business though "buy cheap Sell dear" so don't think you will get much Good luck Dave