Greydog

Not sure what the issue is here Jim is it asking for a Pass code? Do you have the Business Radio in the dash or the Professional Nav screen?

Hi Jim Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the Seat section it should give what options Manual, Powered or Powered with memory. If it shows the powered options it is pretty certain the loom is there, then search for the seat you want in the right colour. Heated seats may take a bit more work as you will need the switches and controller Dave

Morning Tony Check the Auction Sites and sites like Parkers it may not be as "rare" as you think plus "rare" might not add up to £'s our cars are only worth the money to a limited collector market. As an example my 4.6is X5 only just over 800 were registered in the UK the DVLA a couple of years showed 320 still on the road but it's value hasn't gone up ?? Yet ?? Dave

Hi Clive Welcome to the Forum Nice looking Legacy, my wife's car is a 3.0 Outback with a full Perrin Engine upgrade now on 140k miles, 400+ whp is addictive 😈 Porsche's are easy meat. Great choice of car, you soon get used to the Auto but always have the manual setting when you need it. There is an onboard diagnostic (hidden menu) that can be accessed through the Idrive or OBC several Videos on You tube about how to get in, that should give you some good basic information on how the car is feeling. My first advice is if you are joining the BMW brigade the first essential for me is to get a BMW specific diagnostic program of your own. Cost is not as much as many think often less than a single diagnostic session with a Dealer. Look at the big auction sites loads there. Top of the list (for me) is INPA/ISTA which is dedicated BMW but it will allow full Dealer level diagnostic and coding capability then the easiest to use PAsoft BMW 1.4.0 my everyday tool, allowing almost as much access as INPA, both will allow access to all control modules in the car including transmission. But there are many others such as FIXD™ All-system Diagnostic Tool – FOXWELL NT510 Elite Multi-system Scan Tool. AUTOPHIX 7810 OBDII Diagnostic Tool. Original Carly for Wifi OBD2 Adapter iPhone iPad. MAOZUA Latest V7. 7 Creator C310+ OBD2 Scanner. iCarsoft i910 Diagnostic OBD2 Scanner. Carly for BMW OK to use but it is expensive as it is subscription based. A couple of websites that may be helpful along the way www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Lots of small exploded drawings that show where stuff is plus of course part numbers if you need to source spares. A US site wwwpelicanparts.com has some great "how too's" with pictures and for you may be a source of sensible spares. As I have always had the "need to know what makes things tick" and carried out most of my own maintenance (I use the Dealer/Specialists for annual service and MOT it keeps the service record stamped) I have programs for Land Rover, Volvo, Mercedes, Toyota, BMW and Subaru on a laptop I keep in the garage so I can stay on top of things and make decisions as to whether it's a Garage job or a home one. Not many I can't tackle at home but as I am in my 70's sometimes it is easier on the old bones to let the garage take the strain. Like all AWD cars the BMW is sensitive to tyre choice preferring the same size/make front and rear. If your new choice has a staggered set up (wider rear wheels/tyres) then making sure tyres are correct is more important to avoid trans wind up which can damage the transfer box. Good Luck with the car hope this helps Dave

Hi Chris I used my local BMW Specialist who has an excellent engine man (BMW/Porsche trained) There is a Register of BMW Specialists Google them and find one local to you they are in my experience Knowledgeable and Helpful in getting to the best decision/compromise for you. A diesel Specialist is another option worth considering. I am in West Sussex and used Walker Autotec I also use them for service, Andy Walker carried out all negotiations with the Warranty Company plus pressed BMW for contributions (not as successful there) but he tried. My engine was completely rebuilt Block stripped flushed and cleaned, new crank.pistons,rods oil pump and of course all bearings and gaskets (there are a lot of those) The cause of my pain the tensioner BMW use is hydraulic but at cold start uses spring tension before oil pressure is there. The spring anneals with multiple heat cycles allowing momentary chain slap, the guides are plastic and after the same heat cycles become brittle with the slap they can break up. If your lucky you get a horrible rattle and a big bill to replace the guides chains and tensioner, if your unlucky you get a clogged oil pick up and a comprehensive mega bill. Dave

On the plus side we would all have to drive like Lewis Hamilton to make it work 😂

If F1 ERS can produce around 120Kw of energy in less than 1 lap (they actually recharge several times a lap) then the technology is already there just cost and willingness to apply it. It wouldn't work for me unless it sounded like a V8

That will either extend your working day waiting for a charge to get home 😁 or you need hybrid vans! It will be interesting to see how Amazon get on as they have a fleet of all electric delivery vans now. I wonder how many parcels will be left on board at the end of the shift as I can see drivers hours going up if they have to wait for a charge. With all the "clever engineering" that goes into an all electric car like the Tesla (Vic's cost over £80k new) I have always wondered why they don't split the battery pack and have one half charging while you drive, with an automatic change when the battery being used for traction reaches a pre-set charge level?? Thinking head on, if Vic's Tesla has a 250 mile charged range real world about 180. At the super charge rate Tesla quote 40 mins for an 80% charge which in practical terms is around 40 or 50 miles driving. By switching between battery packs the car should remain at around 80% and could be plugged in to top up both packs overnight.

Hi Chris Welcome to the Forum Ouch commiserations, been there with my 4.6is but I had a Warranty to take most of the financial pain. Trying to be practical I would think your car is worth somewhere between £7 and £9k in good running order. Without an engine?? I would look at the cost of rebuild against a complete rebuilt engine, then as I did make decision about do I run it into the ground or cut my losses. My decision was 10 years ago and still going strong, plus along the way I have expanded my education I now know an awful lot about the devious minds of BMW engineers/designers and some of the stupid things that the cost cutters have caused that compromise our cars. Dave

Hi Si Welcome to the Forum Anything from BMW will be more expensive that is a given. With my 4.6 it was failed chain guides (plastic) which clogged the oil pick up causing failure. All timing chains were replaced during the engine rebuild, as it was carried out under warranty all parts were OEM the chains were FEBI who are the OEM supplier to BMW. Remember both BMW and their OEM suppliers will be disparaging about any competition. As an example I have replaced many of my suspension bushes with Poly Bushes. My car went in for an airbag recall when I picked it up the service manager approached with a sheet in his hand and told me my car was in his opinion unroadworthy as there were so many sub standard suspension parts which would compromise braking and handling !!. I would check out FEBI stockists for a kit and compare prices, someone like EuroCarParts. ECP often have discount vouchers online also so you may get a better deal that way. Good Luck Dave Dave

Hi Paul I watched a program "Vintage Electric" a guy in Wales converts Beetles Sprites etc they did a Lancia Fulvia in the show budget was £40k from memory May be cheaper to buy a Tesla? A neighbour has one he converted from Lexus it is mighty impressive unless you have to do a journey. Pre-covid he and his wife were attending a family wedding in Stoke, on paper inside the charged range. The reality was stressful the Tesla satnav shows all the available charging points plus the Tesla fast charge points (apparently 80% charge in 40 mins) when they were approaching the M40/M42 junction they were low on charge so followed directions to the nearest services with a Fast Charger, it was out of service (sat nav didn't know that) all standard charge points were in use. They had no alternative but to carry on, they made Stafford Services where after waiting an hour managed to get on the Fast Charger. A journey that took around 4 hours in the Lexus had taken him 6+ hours. For his daily commute he loves it an over night charge lasts him 3 days or so, but for other journeys he has brought another Lexus. So me I think the cost of conversion would outweigh the benefit I like my Beemer (warts and all) but would I put £40k into it !!! No I don't think I would. Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Sounds a bit like me on a cold morning, takes a few minutes to get moving as well 🤣 Normal suspect for your issue would be the Glow Plugs and Glow Plug controller/relay. My Brother Inlaw's 530d was down to 1 Glow Plug working, but still started first time every time and after 30 secs or so tick over smoothed out. We changed glow plugs and the controller/relay and it is back to smooth running. The job is fiddly rather than difficult give the glow plugs a good soaking with release agent before beginning. Dave

Hi Mick Happy New Year Shame that we don't get feed back especially on things like this that can be a great help to others. I still can't get may head around how so much Swarf/metal particles get right through the system, the filter seems to do nothing? Dave

Morning Isaac Welcome to the Forum In a word "NO" the rear shouldn't feel Bouncy? As your car is a 2008 model the rear shock absorbers could well be at the end of their life, they work hard and don't last forever. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then look in the Rear Axle section for the right part number. Then use Google to get the best price for the correct parts Remember always change suspension parts in pairs left and right. Good Luck Dave

Hi John Just seen your post so sorry for the late reply. You may have fixed it by now Did you change all the glow plugs & the controller? Have you renewed/cleaned or blanked the EGR? Your car will have 2 thermostats 1 Water and 2 EGR if the engine doesn't reach operating temp the Particulate Filter won't regenerate and will clog. So I would replace both to make sure that everything can work as it should. Use www.realoem.com to find where they are and the correct part numbers. Oh and Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Amir Welcome to the Forum Question (1) If HBA is not installed but you have the button on the end of the left stalk I believe you can purchase and download the function using Connected Drive. Or your Dealer can do it when it is in for service, for a cost of course. BMW know many ways of squeezing money out of your wallet 😁 Or you could save money and just use the dip switch manually 🤣 the mark 1 eyeball detects lights earlier than the sensor will and if the eyeball isn't working you shouldn't be driving anyway 😎 Question (2) Pan roofs are really not practical as a retro fit the roof bracing is different to retain crash integrity. So if the roof is in the build specification the body shell used will have all the correct bracing in place. Dave

Hi Jim The switch should be easy enough to check with a multi meter, same with the loom to the washer motor. Check the earth connections carefully BMW use a lot of common earth points which are often at the bottom of the problems. Dave

Hi Joel Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Linfsey The Auto Lock/Anti Hijack feature can be turned on or off by anyone with a BMW capable diagnostic program. Program's such as iCarsoft, Autologic and several others will do it, though the most comprehensive in my opinion is ISTA/INPA or BMW 1.4.0 this will depend on when your X3 was made from memory if it was made after march 2008 it will be Dcan based and 1.4.0 will not work. So your choices are take it to BMW talk to the (chancellor first) at Dealer labour rates it won't be cheap, BMW specialists will be less expensive as will good Independent Garages. Or you can buy a copy of a BMW Diagnostic program and run it on an old laptop (I have programs for Volvo, Mercedes and BMW) and do your own diagnostic's cost for this is variable but reasonable as generally it is about the same cost as 1 session with a garage. Or you can buy stand alone systems like iCarsoft or Autologic more expensive but it's yours and can be sold should you change car, there are also subscription diagnostic's such as Carly for BMW So the answer is if you want the feature it is easy enough to find and turn on but it does need diagnostics, Dave

Hi Richard BMW are great at hiding stuff that you need to get at IIRC your filter has a a heater as well and is hidden underneath near the front of the car. They hide the X5 filter behind a trim under the floor just in front of the rear wheel perfect place to collect all the crud?? When I changed mine it was the original had a sticker with the manufacturer date still readable?? No wonder the dealers often "forget them" at service time Dave

Welcome to the Forum Thabani With Richard here, if the engine has been "done" recently whoever did it should be sorting it as it doesn't sound as though they have done it properly Dave

Hi Jim Have you checked for leaks (induction and exhaust side) + Belts, pulleys and tensioners Dave

Hi Alan Welcome to the Forum I am sure we will help if we can Dave

Looks really nice, you could make a removable Westfalia tow bar part of the deal? (Westfalia is a BMW OEM supplier) Lack of Sun roof wouldn't bother me the colour would though, no fan of white. Good luck

Hi Jim If you have the opening glass it could be the shaft seized or part seized, try you tube there were some fixes a couple of years back Dave