Greydog

Morning Martin As the Government Plan is to ban sales of "New" Petrol and Diesel cars in 10 years time 2030 Clearly they can't ban the use of Petrol/Diesel cars/trucks from that date so it will take at least another 10 years or so for them to disappear. As long as the fuel is available I suspect many will keep them going. So dropping £30k into any Petrol/Diesel car caries the same risk, there could be the contrary view that it may well push the price of used vehicles up as the date approaches. Options are a personal taste so will vary vastly from one person to the next, take Bluetooth at my age my mobile phone is just that a "Phone" for talking on. So connectivity to the car is to answer and make voice calls, my children (all late 30's/40's) use far more of the phone technology so they would look for as an example "Car Play/Android compatibility. I prefer the "Comfort Seats" these days, always leather certainly Heated. Radio/CD/USB (pretty much standard these days) Navigation, electric windows keyless entry and good AC/Heating for the cabin would do it for me. Oh plus the Luggage/Dog Guard I don't want/need a sunroof (experience tells me they are trouble) I don't need rear seat entertainment (they are big enough to buy their own) rear seat passengers should be screaming in terror not watching movies 😈 Wheels and tyres are cosmetic but I like my cars to look good so would choose these with care, probably 20" with colour and spoke pattern to suit the Body colour. Bit long but it's just what I would look for Dave

Hi Kev On the Convertible I would think they are pretty much like my X5 there are 4 in the boot area look like a rubber bung in the floor with a tube attached. If you look on realoem you should find the locations. Good luck Dave

Morning Martin The 540 will be higher maintenance cost, road tax and fuel cost (18 to 20 mpg) The 530d will be a little less in maintenance (not a lot) less road tax, fuel cost will be similar to your A6 The straight six BMW engine is one of the worlds great engines, my brother inlaw is on his 4th BMW 5 Touring he has a business in Holland and commutes regularly so racks up the miles. He has had 3 x 530d and a 535d all have run to around 300k kilometres, his current 530d touring is at around 140k all have been tuned, the current car has around 300hp mid range is rapid to say the least yet still gives 40+ mpg So comparing the two for me, the 540i every time don't want my neighbours to think I came home in a Taxi 🤣😂 Dave

Hi Kev Welcome to the Forum First I would check that all the drain holes are clear if the water build up was as you describe something was stopping it running away. I go around mine a couple of times a year and use piece of small spring type curtain support for net curtains and rod them through it's surprising how clogged they get. For the motor have you tried drying it out thoroughly with a heat gun or hair drier then check the fuses and relays? If you need a motor check www.realoem.com to make sure you have the correct part number then search the Net and contact the specialist BMW Breakers (cheaper than BMW Dealers) Oh and Happy New Year Dave

Hi John The BMW remote filter system is a common source of leaks normally the "O" ring under the screw cap is the culprit very rarely renewed even by Dealers. I always use OEM Mann Filters after having an after market one break up in the housing, now that was a royal PITA to get all the bits out. Happy New Year Good Luck Dave

Hi Michael Happy New Year Welcome to the Forum BMW's normal service sequence should be in your service book with a tick sheet of items checked/serviced, if you don't have that then from memory. 15000 miles Oil change, Check all Fluids, Rotate tyres/wheels and balance ( Note! only if the wheel tyre set up is same front and rear. If the set up is staggered "wider rear" check tyres and balance) Note BMW oil changes are every 15000 miles I change mine annually regardless of mileage covered, In my case often less than 5000 miles. 30000 miles As above plus. Check Brake Pads, Check Suspension and Shocks Check Fuel Filter (Note often forgotten even by Dealers) 60000 miles As 30000 miles plus. Check Battery and replace as required. Check Brake Rotors replace as required Check all belts and hoses and replace if needed 90000 miles The 60000 service is repeated plus A thorough check top and bottom for leaks or any sign of deuteriation, Check fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail Check injectors and Glow Plug operation. Check all vehicle Safety Features. Beyond 90000 miles Start the sequence again from 30000 miles but take more care with visual checks of all belts tensioners and suspension components You should also get time dependent item for change such as Coolant and Brake Fluid normally you will get the Clock symbol come up with the service indicator on the dash. Most service items are available from good Motor Factors or from BMW who do give some good discounts for older models, worth checking costs. If you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. That way your sure your getting the right parts. If I was uncertain as to the history I would change Oil and Filter, Air Filter and Pollen filter. Fuel Filter. Make a visual check of all belts and tensioners (no squeaks rattles or vibration). Check all bushes and shocks Check tyres for wear. Good Luck Hope this is some help Dave

2021 begins with new hope for the coming year Brexit done at last and 2 Vaccines for Covid Look out for your loved ones family, friends and neighbours Dave

Happy New Year Danny Welcome to the Forum We did this job on my brother inlaws 530d touring 2 years ago. He brought a Carplay/Android interface kit fitting was simple if a bit fiddly just take your time as there are plenty of plastic clips for clumsy fingers to break. He found an excellent video "how to" on YouTube which helped greatly. We positioned the USB/Phone connection in the Arm Rest his interface allows normal CIC operation on the OEM screen unless his Iphone is connected (wireless or USB) when Carplay comes up still controlled from the cars controller, all steering wheel and voice controls are as normal. When we plugged my Motorola into the USB Android was available. Google is your friend, do your home work, I believe some kits change the screen as well (his didn't need to) I guess it depends what you are trying to achieve, These kits wont help if there is an issue with any of the on board components such as the CIC, Radio Etc. Good Luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum If I am understanding your issue 1. You say your Stop Start button got "slow" do you mean you had to push it several times? Or was the car turning over slowly when starting? 2. You say "no key fob" do you mean the Remote Locking isn't working ? 3. You say "as soon as you detached the battery to put a new one on you lost all power" did you fit a new battery? Starting at the end with the Battery (3) If you have replaced the battery is it the correct one for your car ? Does your car have "Stop/Start" built in or just the Stop/Start button ? A new battery should be minimum 90ah but probably 110ah and AGM, when taking a battery out disconnect Neg first the Positive. Take care as the positive has a fused link that is designed to cut power in an accident when fitting the new battery the reverse Pos connected first then Neg. Before everything will work you need the battery registered to the car by someone with a BMW Diagnostic program ISTA, BMW 1.4.0, Autologic, Carsoft or similar without registration the battery may not charge correctly and some functions may not be available. Most decent garages will know this and be able to do it. Item (1) The Start/Stop button can be changed but if the car was turning over slowly with a fully charged battery get the starter checked they can fail and draw massive current killing batteries. Item (2) If the cars battery has failed or is very low the remote locking will not work and once a new battery has been fitted and registered the key may need registering with the car again. It should open OK using the key and with the key in the ignition start. Hope this Helps Happy New Year Dave

Morning Jonny Welcome to the Forum Aren't they great those "bongs" do you flinch when you get one 🤣 it is a BMW wallet alert. The tyre pressure monitoring system can be disabled by anyone with the correct software such as BMW 1.4.0 or INPA or Autologic Carly for BMW (subscription) I use BMW 1.4.0 and turning off the TPMS is a "tick box" exercise, or there are tyre sensors available from many sources now even read they are on Amazon and they work. Just a pain to fit as it is tyre off !! If you do your own maintenance it is worth getting a diagnostic program as it will save hours in diagnostics. Once you know the issue you can make decisions about whether it is a home job or Garage. X5's are notoriously power hungry especially at start so many stored "fault codes" are caused by low voltages and can be cleared easily. Then make sure the battery is fully charged clear the faults and re-start any faults that return need investigation. Dave

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum Hope Christmas was good for you and your family and 2021 brings Peace Prosperity and happy motoring Dave

Hi Martin Welcome to the Forum When you say computer display I take you mean the screen in the centre of the Dash? The system if you are not aware is made up from a number of components Screen up front which receives Video signals from the Nav Unit or TV unit managed by the BM54 Radio unit, signals are also received from the Instrument cluster (OBC) and the TCU if telephone/bluetooth is fitted. The Nav TV BM54 and TCU are all fitted in the boot either in the left cubby or under the floor and are prone to water damage if there are any leaks in the area. Check it carefully also check the earth points (BMW use common earth points) I had an issue on my current 4.6 X5 which traced to the earth point at the back of the spare wheel well removed cleaned and refitted using contact paste (used to seat stuff in computers) all issues disappeared. Do you have a reverse camera fitted? Is the Screen OEM or as has been done by many has it been changed for an After Market unit? All the OEM stuff is linked by the I bus loop so that may need checking I had many problems with my 4.4 X5 which was so frustrating it drove me up the wall. If the BM54 Radio was disconnected all was good. In the end I replaced the head unit/screen with a Dynavin unit took all the rest out and sold it on Ebay which recovered the cost of the Dynavin Nav TV Digital Radio plus bluetooth that worked all in one unit. I am told the current units also retain BMW OBC information maybe worth a look. I hope this helps Good Luck Dave

Morning Christhela Not certain what you are trying to source? Are you trying to buy a complete assembly? Drive shafts? The rear axle is made up from a Rear Axle carrier which holds the Diff. Drive shafts and suspension components determine the overall width of the assembly. If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model the look at the relevant section. You will see a number of small exploded drawings that will help understand the assembly there are also Part Numbers so when buying used or new you will know your getting the correct parts. Hope this helps Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Absolute beast of a car one of my neighbours works for BMW UK and had one as one of his company cars (he changes 2 or 3 times a year) if I were going to spend my pension it would be on the 550i xdrive touring then you know it will grip and go in all but the most extreme conditions. I have had AMG;s and when it's snowy or icy had to tip toe around even with winter tyres. My old 4.6is just goes were I need it to when I want it to one of the reasons it became my daily drive and the last AMG was sold. Enjoy Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Hope your Christmas has been a good one and 2021 is peaceful and Prosperous First "S" drive is Front wheel drive (if you are't aware) and Xdrive is all wheel drive, Engine wise most EU cars will be Diesel though petrol engines are available. Were it my money it has been a tough year for all business's and the motor trade is no exception so I would set my targets first, say X drive 25d or 25e (I always go for the biggest engine as it wont have to work quite as hard) set my budget and start the hunt. I would be looking at BMW Dealers to ensure that a BMW AUC Warranty is included, then let the negotiations begin If the car has the build spec I want tyres are new or almost new (don't want to be buying tyres a month or two after getting it) I would be pressing for a service deal and an extended warranty 3 years at least. My main push would be for Service deals and Warranty remember salesmen get commission on these items too so no mercy. Be strong and prepared to walk away crazy fact our homes and our cars are the biggest purchases we make but both tend to be brought with our heart not our heads. More cars are brought on colour trim and gadgets than what it is actually needed for. Get the security of an AUC Warranty around you get a Service contract in place and pay for interim oil changes just as added protection would be my way forward and enjoy your Beemer Good luck with the hunt Dave

Happy Christmas Larry If the shop welded any thing without disconnecting the battery it is more than possible that they fried something. Stu is on the money I think with the fuel pump and relay also simple things first fuel pump fuses need checking if you haven't done it. If your tracking down parts for either car use (if your not already) www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will bring up the model, then look for what you need, even second hand parts are easier to fit if they are right. If you double click the part number you will get a list of what other models the part was used on. Also www.pelicanparts.com have some great "How to's" with pictures. Dave

Hi Daran Welcome to the Forum From what I have learned it will likely be a fault on the Most Bus, one of the units or it's most bus link is blocking the signal. You can by a Most Bus Optical test loop then starting in the boot unplug the units one at a time, when you pull the Most Plug you should see a flashing light. If there is no flash the unit or units before it in the chain are blocking the signal. Move back until you find the flashing light plug in the test loop if everything now works you have your problem unit. Digital Radio units and TCU are likely culprits. First check one of the online Vin Decoders to see what was fitted at build. Then check www.realoem.com to see where stuff is fitted makes checking easier. That will make sure you don't get bored over Christmas 🤣 Dave Oh and Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year

2020 has without doubt been an incredibly tough year for many people old and young. So here are my best wishes to everyone for the Festive Season it will be different but we will come through it. Stay healthy, stay happy, try and keep a sense of humour, look out for loved ones neighbours and friends. Best Wishes to you all for a Merry Christmas and a Peaceful and Prosperous 2021 Dave

Morning Lorraine The N47 4 cylinder Diesel engine was in production and use by BMW from March 2007 up till September 2014. I have no personal experience of owning a vehicle with this engine but have helped a friend of our sons with an engine change in his 120d, he brought a second hand unit from a specialist BMW breaker. As an Engineer I just had to look inside once the scrap engine was on the floor, my assessment is first the tensioner begins to fail allowing slap and accelerated wear of guides and chain. Sadly due to the design of the engine the drive sprocket on the crank also seems to wear but "usefully" is welded to the crankshaft!!! So to repair these it would in my opinion also need a new crank to do it properly. Not the engine designers finest effort or BMW's who it seems initially just put their heads in the sand and ignored the issue, it seems they took a view that number of failures against number of units sold meant the issue was a customer one not theirs?? The difficulty is some engines have reached astronomical mileages without issue while others have failed early with full service history's. As Richard says walk away or look at a petrol model, if a Diesel is your preference make sure you have evidence of a good history and a solid either BMW AUC Warranty (I would make an extended AUC warranty part of the deal) or good aftermarket Warranty just in case. Dave

Morning Forrest Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the lighting section it will show what was fitted as standard. Does it have an LED lamp fitted ? f you have LED one side and Halogen the other it would work but light level would be different and may trigger bulb warnings. Just had a quick look it seems you should have P2 12v/21w lamps fitted Hope it helps Dave

Morning Dan Take a look at www.realoem.com there are small exploded drawings which will help with what it is and where it goes. Google may also help with how too's, the advice I can give having been stuck when brittle with age plastic clips have broken is get spares before you start they are pence and new clips are always easier to fit. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ray Not sure what rim sizes are fitted to the 1 series BMW have always favoured a staggered set up (wider rears) to give improved traction in the rear drive cars. Check the rim sizes it will be cast into the rear of one of the spokes if you have the BMW favoured set up then it is probably 7 1/2j x 18 front and 8 j or possibly 8 1/2 j x 18 rear. If you fit the same tyre front and rear front and rear with staggered rims you will have odd rolling radius front and rear, that could give odd handling. I don't see an issue with getting either a pair of front wheels or rear wheels and running the same tyre front and rear that way you maintain the rolling radius. On my x5 I have 275/40 R 20 W (F); 315/35 R 20 W summer and winter wheel tyre combination is 255 x 55 x 18 all round same rolling radius as the summer set up. Dave

Morning Phil I did read on another forum about fitting and Android touch screen system that looks OEM and retains the original radio. It was a plug and play installation, I would do some searches and see what you can find. Dave

Morning Dominique Welcome to the Forum Check the TCU Bluetooth unit or get it checked. You should be able to find a BMW Specialist near you (I take it your in the USA) they will be more sensibly priced and have all the knowledge/tools. Check www.pelicanparts.com talk to them if they are far away good website with lots of help. Dave

Morning Linfsey I think updating your maps will depend on which system is in your car some have a Disc update others have a USB system. Is your car E83LCI or F25 ? If you are driving the E83 LCI you will need the Updated map DVD 2018 or 2019 I would think are the latest so simple to upgrade. If you have the F25 model you will need a FSC code from BMW to upgrade the maps so it may be simpler (though more costly) to get them to do it for you, plus if anything goes wonky it's their issue not yours Dave