Greydog

Morning First you will need the location of all the units connected to the bus www.realoem.com will help. I may be teaching Granny a bit but a Fibre Optic bus is in simple terms a ring main the signal travels in one direction around it so if a unit is down/incompatible the signal stops there, The signal generally will start at a Bus Gateway and travel through each unit and on to the next until it is received back at the Gateway. When you unplug the Fibre optic connector you should see a flashing light indicating the signal is there, some units have a test lamp which flashes when the fibre optic is plugged in some don't so unplugging the next unit in line will reveal either a flashing light. If no light suspect the previous unit. There are bypass/test plugs available so if you find a dead unit plug in the bypass and check the next inline. Laborious but basically simple to do. Several manufacturers use optical systems these days so there are bound to be "How Too's" on You Tube or similar, Google is your friend The key fob could be as simple as the keys need pairing to the car or the antenna is faulty. Dave

Hi Barry You are very welcome what is a Forum that can't share stuff The Range Rover was an er "experience" P38 in the end I wasn't sure who had it longer me or the Dealer ?? Just talked to my BMW Indi he said the early SMG boxes had a detent spring that broke quite often it causes slow changes between gears. He said it is a changeable item without taking the box out. Have a Great Christmas Dave

Hi Walter Welcome to the Forum You should find it in the front behind/above the fuses. R1 in the picture

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I can understand a product helping a rubber seal that has hardened, but if the actual guides are worn I am still a skeptic. From what you write you have had a brilliant result Whoop Whoop enjoy your 650 Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum Have you tried www.mdecoder.com always worked for me. I do know there is an SMG hydraulic control unit on the side of the Gearbox I would start there, check for leaks etc. If you aren't aware have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will call up your model. There are small exploded drawings that will help identify where stuff is fitted. You could also try www.pelicamparts.com an American site so the steering is on the wrong side but they have loads of excellent "how too's" with pictures. If you need professional help avoid BMW they will just say "change the box $xxxxxxx thank you very much" A BMW Independent would be better Hope this helps Dave

Morning Laurynas Welcome to the Forum If there was no CCC when you brought the car do you know why? Had the previous owner had an issue and changed it to an aftermarket unit? If he did is the loom complete? Is the Most Bus OK? Are the other units there ? You will definitely need to code the unit to your chassis, did your car have the business system or professional system (not sure that parts are interchangable). I did read a few years back that there are coolant hoses for the CCC if there is a leak the result is a dead CCC. I would try one of the Vin Decoder sites to check your cars build sheet so you are confident about what was fitted Good Luck Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum A little more information may help us help diagnose the clunk. Is it constant a "rattle" does it only happen in certain circumstances like up and down kerbs or speed humps. Is there vibration when slowing down? The normal suspects are the Brake reaction arm (or can be called the Tension arm) and its bush Clonk slowing plus vibration, Anti Roll Bar bushes and links are a good source of clonks going over rough surfaces or up and down kerbs. Top mounts can go but are much rarer. As for repair a reasonable Home Mechanic with a decent tool kit can change the front suspension, or of course you can use a competent Garage but cost will be higher. As an example a couple of years back I changed all arms and bushes front and rear over 2 weekends with a Kit brought from Ebay £250 ish if my old brain recalls. The difference was night and day, suspension bushes have a life (60 to 80k) and deteriorate with age (bit like me) just remember to get a 4 wheel alignment done after doing the work to avoid any odd tyre wear. Good luck Dave

Hi Dan No it will bring up the model and all parts that were available not the specific build sheet. Dave

Laborious but would work and help isolate the circuit causing feed back. I would start with the audio circuits Dave

Hi Dan Check out www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. The site is a BMW online parts list so you will be able to see what parts are needed and also make sure your buying the right parts. Dave

Morning George Whether you buy online (Ebay or similar) or at an Auction (by attending and bidding) or by a private sale you are very much buying "sold as seen" and have little protection in law, so BUYER BEWARE. Yes at auction you can get cars at "Trade" prices that is how car traders like all retailers make their money. Internet sites give wide coverage but make sure you know where the car is and the costs of delivery/collection are factored in. Not very cheap buying a car online in Aberdeen if you live in Margate !! If however you buy from a "Trader" registered or not (there are many selling from the kerbside pretending to be selling from home) you will have some protection under the Sale of Goods Act. Where ever you buy from do your homework use the internet not just to search but to research the car your buying what issues to look for, what average cost of repair, servicing costs, tyres, insurance road tax band. If you aren't mechanically adept find someone who is to go with you. Don't buy with your heart a "cool looking car" can be a money pit buy with your head. Hope that helps Dave

Morning Nick One of my sons has a friend with a 1 series he gave me the web address, just digging back here you go https://bmwtuning.co/build-500hp-n54-bmw-135i-335i/ I had to let him down lightly and explain he doesn't have an N54 engine. Good Luck Dave

Is it 1 speaker ? or both front speakers ? Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Crazy boy !! I did read an article early this year that the tuners love the N54 engine due to it's strength and forged internals. The article mentioned the need for colder plugs? new coils? Twin Cone air intakes? The article was talking of 400+ WHP and with the turbo's upgraded even 500 HP at that stage I think your money would be better spent on drive train and brakes It was a US article and their budget was $1500 Good Luck Dave

Why buy an "economical" car then spend hard earned £ on tuning to make it faster ?? I never understand that why not buy the bigger engine to begin with more performance and less wear and tear even if you do tune it plus it will already have bigger brakes etc. Still it would be a boring world if we were all the same for me the most important bit gets lost. You should ENJOY your car and driving it as long as that's achieved Whoop Whoop. Dave

Morning First picture shows the TCU/Bluetooth unit pull the big multi plug if your issue stops you are pretty sure where the issue is. Well its showing a TCU fault (TCU is the Bluetooth unit) That Fault seems to indicate the pairing button ? On my X5 the pairing button is under the armrest. If I recall on yours it is built into the radio, whether it is an actual fault with the radio buttons (they are multifunction buttons on the radio) or a fault with the TCU (seems more likely to me) Or possibly a loom issue (I hope not) its a long way from the boot to the radio. If the TCU is disconnected and the noise remains it would point to the actual radio headunit and button. My money is on the TCU I am not aware of anyone who repairs BMW TCU units but that doesn't mean they aren't out there. Try talking to people like ECU Testing (Nottingham I think) or BBA Reman (Kent) there was also a company that specialised in upgrading BMW BM54 radio units. Google should help with contact numbers. If a test/repair isn't available then TCU's come up on Ebay and some of the specialist BMW recyclers should be able to help. Use www.realoem.com to get the Part Number click on the part number and it will give you a list of other models it was used in and alternate part numbers. Good Luck Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum First take a look at one of the Vin Decoder websites to see what equipment was on your cars build list.Then look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. search the Audio system there are small exploded drawings that will give clues to where things are fitted. You will also have part numbers if you need to replace stuff. Now your issue, you say there is no amp in the boot but I take it you have bluetooth if water has entered the area and the TCU has got wet that is an independent source of sound to the speakers. I would unplug it just to check if the sound stops. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car with what is one of the worlds great engines, however as you are discovering people can't resist "Modding" them. Suspension wheels and tyres are the normal that often results in a lowered car on big wheels with low profile tyres which equals a bone jarring ride (I have 2 sons both have been there and done that) If it were me I would return to standard set up as the E46 was well known for it's ride and handling. With luck whoever lowered it just changed the springs, or possibly a coil over kit where all you need to do is buy new standard springs M3 if you want a little lower and stiffer (lets be realistic as the M3 was and has been a bench mark for ride and handling) With the locking BMW applied a system to try and prevent theft/hijacking, one push on the unlock button drivers door, two pushes all doors when you drive off the doors will lock automatically. These settings can be changed quite simply if you have access to a diagnostic program like INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 there are many others Carly (subscription) Autologic etc etc. I use BMW 1.4.0 on an old lap top cost when I brought it was about a tenner not much more expensive now. Sounds like there could well be a fault with your mirrors this is where the diagnostic program saves you a lot of pain. I run a scan once a month (my X5 is getting on like me) the last one tells me I have faults with the AUC Sensor (PITA) but doesn't affect running, Drivers door mirror heater broken wire, and PDC centre rear sensor. So if you can get a scan done maybe a member with a program near you I am in Sussex or a friend with a Garage it will help in identifying what the mirror fault is, otherwise it's a process of testing with a multimeter Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Bob Welcome to the Forum Your absolutely correct certain items are coded to the chassis there is also the "myth" that only BMW can do it. The process is straight forward and many garages have the software (autologic or similar) to carry out the task, plus of course there is a BMW Specialist Register that will provide you with a Specialist near you. Finally there are many software programs available today the will allow you to DIY several using your smartphone. Just google BMW software you will find there are loads of stuff available literally from £10 up Good Luck Dave

Hi Christine Welcome to the Forum I would start with an internet search to see how common the issue is. Does the car have a BMW Dealer service history? I would challenge how swarf has reached the engine as the Fuel Filter's job is to stop it getting that far ? BMW do not "repair" anything they replace parts so they are charging for a complete fuel system, or trying too. Ask them how often they have seen this? Have your search results to hand. If there is evidence of this being more common than they claim name and shame Talk to BMW UK see what help you can get there as this seems an odd ball to me Good Luck keep us up to speed

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Have you checked for any air/vacuum leaks around the inlet side check all hose plus I have heard of issues with the tank ventilation valve. Hope this helps a bit Dave

Hi Kevin Just had a look at www.realoem.com it shows you Gas Spring as Gas pressurized spring f trunk lid 470N 2 51247127875 $38.23 I don't know who the OEM Manufacturer is but as the price is in US Dollars it would make a pair about £55 from a Dealer plus most dealers offer discounts for older models. I have had several very good deals from Cotswold BMW worth giving them a ring. Dave

Morning Emma Don't be frightened of the transfer box it is as tough as old boots the common issue is the actuator gear and motor mounted on the side of the Transfer case. Inside it is the actuator gear it is made of a nylon material and the teeth strip. New improved gears are available and your mechanic friend should be able to change it easily, there are several you tube "how to's" that will help. I have just (yesterday, well it was raining) carried out this repair on a friends 2007 E70 He brought the transfer repair kit from Ebay for £18 delivered to remove the actuator clean it up, strip it change to drive gear and replace it took this old bloke 3 hours including coffee and cake stops. Problem fixed no lights all working as it should. The BMW Dealer quoted £1200 for the complete assembly plus Labour plus VAT all in around £2k. All work carried out in my garage at home on ramps. Your mechanic friend must be younger and bendier than me so should be able to do it at least as quickly. Good luck Dave

Morning Jack Welcome to the Forum That looks like the Thermostat housing alright Is, was the thermostat still stuck in the head? If not then someone has had an issue and rather than replace it has binned it ?? Helpful !! not. If you are not aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. There are small exploded drawings which may be some help plus you will have correct part numbers for ordering. Another site that may help is www.pelicanparts.com great how to's with pictures. If my old brain hasn't failed me there is also a temperature sensor in the bottom hose. You could possibly tap into that to control your fan. Check fan rotation just in case your fan is pushing hot air from the engine onto the rad not pulling cool air through. Hope this is some help Dave

Morning Emma First how old is the battery ? Get it checked a lot of issues are caused by low or erratic voltages, you should be seeing 12.8 volts ignition off 14 + volts engine running. Your X5 should be charged from the charge points under the bonnet same with jump starting. Never jump or charge directly at the battery. So with either a fully charged battery or a new one in place reset all codes. The 3 Gearbox related codes are TCM, Transfer Box and Gear monitoring so before driving check the Transmission Fluid level (It is quite possible that your X5 has a good service history yet the transmission has never been serviced even though ZF who make it say service every 60 to 80k) This may well resolve the TCM and Gear Monitoring codes. If not a visit to a Transmission specialist will be needed. Your transfer box code, first check the tyres, mismatched tyres will cause damage to the transfer box (this is true of all 4x4 transmissions) when the car is reversed on full lock is there a jumping jerking from the transmission? After it has been driven if you open the drivers window before turning off listen foe a clicking sound ? My guess would be tyre issues have any been changed recently? Check tyre pressures are all correct. Glow plugs not an uncommon fault with all diesels a few years old, not essential if it is starting OK but as winter approaches worth changing all 6 and the Glowplug relay. Steering Angle sensor reset by driving slowly forward turning lock to lock. ABS should reset with the steering angle sensor and fully charged battery. Good advice from Richard. There was a BMW specialist in Oldham who was very active on the Forums a few years ago worth a check on Google The X5 is a great tow car I brought ours to pull a horse trailer after selling our Horse Lorry, it's dragged 2 fat horses all over the place for the last ten years. Including Rivington when our Daughter lived at Blackrod. Let us know how you get on Dave