Greydog

Ni Jim Has the Diff been checked for Oil ? Many cars get the engine serviced on a regular basis but often the Diff and Gearbox are completely forgotten. Seals wear, gaskets fail allowing oil to seep out, so I would certainly get it checked. Dave

Congratulations Trevor I like the new Site update subtle and modern Dave

Morning Duncan That will do it, Yorkshire is as far North as I go these days. Mine were brought when I was doing some work in Germany years back as a legal requirement Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Hi Duncan Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online Parts List. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the Search Box it will bring up your model then check wheels and tyre options. For my X5 I kept an eye on that well known auction site and found a set of 255x50x18 wheels and winter tyres, though in truth I have used them once in the last 5 years as it's just not been cold enough here in Sussex Good luck with the hunt Dave

Welcome to the Forum Lee Sounds like you have done some work ?? Check the sensor and its wiring a BMW specific Diagnostic Program would help. Lambda sensors are pretty easy to check with a multi meter but if the valve timing is out the lambda doesn't stand a chance. From memory you have an Actuator (valvetronic), 2 camshaft sensors and a Solenoid valve for the actuator Good Luck finishing it off Dave

Hi Mike Welcome to the Forum Nice choice of car The only reason to use OEM parts is to protect any warranty?? You have no reason to be concerned about aftermarket parts many these days are at least equal in quality to OEM, and many better. Poly Bushes for the suspension, drive shafts, wheel bearings, springs and shocks the list goes on. If you are not aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the applications. Once you have the part numbers you can cross reference them with "after market" suppliers so you get the correct parts. 5 years ago I brought a pair of front drive shafts for my 4.6is X5 £250 for the pair, fitted fine and still good after 40k miles Your fat wallet won't stay that way for long if you are a slave to "originality" you could change drive shafts annually for 10 years before you get to BMW Dealers cost Good Luck Enjoy Dave

Morning J Welcome to the Forum Lots of stuff at the front that rotates, Water pump, Alternator, Power Steering Pump with their tensioner on one side. AC pump and tensioner on the other. It isn't a difficult job more fiddly, I would remove the belts (alternator first) and run the engine if the noise is gone then check the bearings on the Alternator, Water Pump and Power Steering. Rotate by hand they should feel smooth no movement in out and sideways. Don't forget the Tensioner wheel that can be noisy to. If the noise is still there with the Alternator belt removed you have narrowed it down to either the AC compressor or the Tensioner that side. Remember we change engine oil at regular intervals (well I hope we do) but these small bearings are whizzing around relying only on their own self lubed bearings! Everything has a life Good Luck Dave

Crazy some of these sales people!! Now we are in lockdown he/she will probably regret loosing a sale for £2k that they could have offset against all sorts of internal things. Hey Ho their loss hang onto your Hard Earned another deal will come up Dave.

Morning Liam Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. It is an online parts list with small exploded drawings that should help Dave

If my old brain isn't completely addled the inner ones come out with the trim from the front. but the corner ones are bumper off Good Luck Ben Dave

What can I say !!! If you can get the deal done just one word ENJOY Dave

Hi Ben If I recall the front inner two sensors can be reached the corner ones need bumper removal Dave

Morning Jim Yes they do but BMW call it a Cargo Partition Net (or some thing similar) Check www.realoem.com it's and online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into search box it will bring up your model then search Dave

Morning John Certainly make it easier mounting the wheels with studs. One word of caution make sure the new wheels are from a known source/manufacturer there have been many cases of after market wheels cracking. Also while some larger sizes look better and fill the arches 21" and 22" rims do tend to restrict the tyres choices Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Ben Welcome to the Forum As with any car the normal checks are paramount, plus make sure everything works there are no "easy fixes" if there were it wouldn't need doing or the seller could do it before sale? So push every button operate every switch make sure if it's fitted it works. Engine wise there were some well documented issues with the 2.0 diesel engines timing chains the thinking was that the extended service intervals didn't help. The 6 cylinder engines are a very different story 2.5 and 3.0 diesels are tough as a tough thing and very tune able. Gearboxes still need servicing and around 150k I would expect it to be approaching it's second service, I would look for evidence it's been done. If it were me I would look for a 2.5/3.0d Touring solid work horse and great fun when you want it. Dave

Hi Joe What is the fault message bottom of the dash between the 2 arrows? Is it related ? Brake pad wear sensor wire unplugged ? Dave

Hi Robert What tyres are you running some are noisier than others Dave

Hi Rob Check out Dynavin UK I put a Dynavin unit into my 4.4 when I had it and got it talking to the car and retaining all the OBC stuff that was 10 years ago the new units are streets ahead with all the "bells and whistles" I am told Apart from running the 5m extension from the boot it was plug and play looked OEM and out performed all the BMW tech that was fitted. I sold all the BMW stuff on the Bay and recovered the cost of the Dynavin unit They were very helpful on the phone when I was fitting it, I would give them a call Dave

Whoop Whoop Stu Don't get carried away now, but at least after the clocks have gone back you will be allowed out after 4.0 pm without the white stick. Check the part numbers on the replacement units are the bulbs halogen or HID? The standard HID units are good if they are Halogen then LED lamps should be a straight swap and not wallet busters Dave

Morning Ian Mine is an E53 not E70 so slightly different but I know the E53 have an inner and outer housing which clip into place the sensor is push and twist then the plug. The E70 looks as though its flush to the bumper so I assume there is just an internal bracket that holds the sensor it will be a bayonet type push and twist Have you checked www.realoem.com there are exploded drawings that should help Have you checked You Tube for help? Dave

Morning Joe BRAKE WARNING lamp ! Check brake fluid level Obvious things to check Handbrake, is it partially on? Does the lamp go out if the engine is started ? What is the warning between the 2 arrows bottom of the dash ? If the Brake fluid is low you have a leak somewhere get it sorted quickly Dave

Morning William As far as I am aware (but then I am an old bloke !!) there are only 2 shock absorber types Sport and Standard, Sachs were the OEM supplier As the shocks control bump and rebound I can see that they may be common across the range. It would make sense that the spring rates would be different due to the different weight of the engine. The anti roll bar is probably different between standard and sport suspension.as well. Have you checked www.realoem.com ? Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model Hope that I haven't confused things more Dave

Afternoon Ian Welcome to the Forum First look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your Model. Then look at the PDC section and note the part numbers so you know your getting the right replacements. The sensors you can reach from below the bumper at the rear (front is more of a faf) Remove the plug twist and pull. Good Luck Dave

Come on Richard with 300+ hp and a strut brace you are to busy holding on to worry about the heater 🤣🤣

Morning Men Welcome Jeff The Sensor are wired like "Fairy Lights" in series if one fails none work !! The system is simple but can be a pain to diagnose 1. Do you have front and rear sensors or just rear? 2. In the Boot between the battery and the rear of the spare wheel well is the control unit. on the top are 3 plug positions. (1) front sensors (2) rear sensors (3) tow pack (disconnects the rear sensors if the trailer electrics are plugged in) If you don't have diagnostics then sensors will click if working so "ear close to sensor" with reverse selected ignition on (don't leave it on to long or dead battery) Change the non-clicking sensors. If no sensors click check the wiring for breaks if no breaks look at the controller if water has got into the battery area it can suffer water damage. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model then get the part numbers you need. Search the well known Auction sites for replacement parts with the correct part numbers. Providing the wiring is OK the rest is plug and play The BMW fail safe is a "Thud" when your to close 😁 Good Luck Dave