Greydog

Morning Martin My neighbour runs a 2013 reg 320d tyres are 225-50 x 17 and he has just done exactly the same thing swapped Run Flats for conventional Bridgestone he runs 32 front 36 rear if that helps. Dave

Hi Bryan Here in Sunny Sussex we haven't had it cold enough for a pair of gloves let alone a heated wheel for years my winter wheels haven't been on the car in the last 3 years. Some of the 4.8is were supplied with heated wheels as were other models depending on Customer order. As for a source the well known auction sites and specialist breakers are worth a search. I do know of others who have fitted the paddle shift wheels and know you have to change the wheel and clock spring for that to work Try looking for a heated wheel from a 4.8is, you may also need Diagnostic/Coding software to activate it once fitted. Also check www.newtis.info for any other items that use fuse 29 in case you already have another accessory using it Let us know if it works

Morning Perry Whats the old saying "Life is what happens to you while your planning other things" From your description it would appear to be Pump/Filter related there are 2 pumps in the fuel tank one feeds the fuel filter the other moves fuel over the transmission tunnel hump then there is another pump (on the Diesels) under the front seat area I believe. It is not unknown for fuel filters to be clogged as they are not the easiest to change (even Dealers have missed them) A Fuel Rail pressure check should tell you if (A) the pumps are running OK and (B) If there is leaky injectors that are letting pressure drop There are wiring diagrams on www.newtis.info so continuity checks for power to the pumps should be a straight forward operation Good luck with the scan Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Misfire's can be caused by a number of things as you are probably aware. Is your diagnostic program BMW specific? Misfire, could be plugs, coil packs, loom to the coil packs, DME fault (BMW Specific Diagnostic will help), fuel delivery (injector leak). The smoke may be unburnt fuel, when the load is increased (AC on) it gets burnt off? If you haven't already I would do the simple free stuff first. Swap coils around see if the misfire moves. Inspect the plugs and change if needed. Check carefully the loom for signs of wear/rubbing which could indicate a short under load. Clean all connectors with a good Electrical Contact cleaner and re-seat. Check the induction side for any air/vacuum leaks. If you aren't aware here are a couple of web sites that may help. 1. www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list so when buying stuff you know it will fit, Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. 2. www.newtis.info a BMW Technical information site Dealers use this for repair and replacement information, same search criteria. www.pelicanparts.com great "how to's" with pictures Hope I have helped not hindered Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First avoid private sales as you will have little or no protection under the sale of goods act. With your budget go for a BMW Approved Used Car (AUC) as you will get a BMW extended Warranty as part of the deal (Or at least I would make sure it is and not an extra) Make sure everything on the car works as it should, make sure all service history is correct and up to date, make sure the tyres are all good with plenty of tread you don't want the cost of tyres a couple of months after buying. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Nice car. All modern cars but diesels in particular are not happy with short journey's where they don't reach full operating temperature. Exhaust temperature is the most important to allow the Emissions equipment and DPF to work correctly. Your car is under warranty so you have a few years protection but time spent at the Dealer is frustrating. Our youngest son (mid 30's) runs a diesel Toyota Pickup) 80% of his journeys are local and he was getting issues until he learned that at least once a week the car needs a good blast at least 50 miles at good speed to make sure the emissions stuff gets to working temperature and can do it's job. All was good for the first 2 years then the EGR system needed attention frequently .he is a tree surgeon so while the Toyota Garage were great and always offered a courtesy car it couldn't carry all his kit? He was on the verge of getting rid when one of his customers with a commercial diesel business (Truck Service) told him to give it a good "Italian Tune Up" once a week. In his 3rd year ownership we would remove and clean the EGR monthly, the real issue was the DPF wasn't getting hot enough to regenerate and burn of the soot. Since he changed his driving habit we have only cleaned the EGR once in 2 years. So my advice,from what I have learned and since read is at least a couple of times a month give it a good blast to let it clear it's throat. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Bryan Welcome to the Forum Good luck with the changes whatever they are and we will be here to help if we can. Dave

Morning Norm Here's some bedtime reading for you Dave Tab7_Central_Body_Electronics_Z.pdf

Hi Robert I know how you feel my X5 is the same age. I have a Ctec charger and use it once a month to refresh the battery, I had to fit a new battery last year and was surprised to find out it was the original !! Unfortunately BMW in their wisdom decided to classify the gearbox as sealed for life ?? While ZF state service every 60 to 80k for BMW life clearly meant end of Warranty. If your going to keep it I would find a ZF service centre and get it serviced fluid and filters.they will also run a diagnostic on the box to be sure. Dave

Hi Paul Look in the passenger footwell behind the trim you will find the LCM (Light Control Module) and near it a multiple comb type Earth point. The :CM doesn't just control the lights in true BMW fashion it also handles signals to several other components. The earth point also has connections to several other circuits in the fuse board. A Web Site that may help is www.pelicanparts.com they have some great "How To's" with pictures just remember it's an American site so steering on the wrong side Keep asking questions that is what the Forum is about Dave

Morning Norm Welcome to the Forum First I would back track and make sure that everything is connected correctly and no pinched wires, pay special attention to the Drivers door window control switch (it is the master) remove the connectors and clean the pins with a good electrical connection cleaner. Then reconnect and test you could also try removing cleaning and replacing fuses 20 & 24 (check that as my old brain might be tricking me) Hope this helps Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Nice car, I was thought that Comfort Access was a standard on the top of the range models like the 135's (but then I am an old bloke so senility could be creeping in?) Have you checked one of the Vin decoder sites it will bring up the build sheet for your car I have used https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/vin/decoder in the past, just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box Good luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Perry Sounds like your having fun (not) and from what you describe and your actions you are capable of and don't mind getting your hands grubby. If you are not aware take a look at www.newtis.info It is a BMW Technical Information site BMW main Dealers use the same for repair and service information. Either put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will call up your model. All the wiring diagrams are there plus technical information. As Stu says a BMW specific diagnostic program is a great help. I had a few weird issues with my 4.4 when I owned it I traced it eventually to a poor earth point. BMW use common earth points (combs) so several items use the same earth point, in my case it was the one in the back of the boot behind the spare wheel (or in my case the LPG Tank god they are heavy) there is one bolt holding the comb to the chassis it was rusty so I undid it cleaned it treated the rust and used an electrical contact paste when bolting back. All weird behavior halted no more current drain. There are several earth points around the car one in the passenger footwell under the LCM I gave all mine the same treatment just to be sure. I don't know if that is your issue but as it's free it's got to be worth a go. However it could be the inline fuel pump, the glow plug relay, the high pressure fuel rail sensor, even a clogged/blocked fuel filter (when a was it last changed) I have even read of the transfer pump in the tank failing and when less than half a tank the issues start. I would use the technical site and if you need parts check www.realoem.com same method last 7 digits of your Vin to call up your model I hope Iv'e helped not hindered Good Luck Dave

Morning Nick When your guys checked did they check the lower steering column joint? It is a universal joint arrangement and they can stiffen up and give all sorts issues/noises, Initially I would lubricate it if the noise disappears you know for sure the culprit. On my first X5 the joint tightened up on right lock but not left? after some spray grease it lasted another 8 to 10k before I had to change it. It is one of those jobs that's a real fiddle rather than difficult. Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Have you checked www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list find your model and year then cross reference against the part numbers for your cat against the 140m model or even 240m models. Dealers have enforced tunnel vision and will never consider swaps like this . When I owned Volvo T5's an ECU remap would get to around 300hp but if a 200 cell cat with 3" down pipe were part of the change 350+ was easily achieved (fast dog movers) So I would also check out some of the after market sports cat suppliers 2 that I used with the Volvo's were Remus and Scorpion, Remus are expensive Scorpion were always more affordable and I though a better sound. Good Luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Batteries either not charged or on there way out are the most common cause of spurious issues in BMW's though this is a new one for me. Get the battery checked and fully charged should be over 12.6 volts engine off 14 + volts engine running. Assuming the battery is OK when (if ever) was the gearbox serviced? If the Diagnostic check is correct check www.newtis.info select your model then put the fault or part into the search box, You will get the service/repair information If your buying parts check www.realoem.com put the lasy 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then look for the parts you need Good Luck Great Motor Dave

Oops sorry Martin Old Fat head and fingers The following year I had the great pleasure of following the same Disco across the Moor near Leyburn on a tractor route, he rove into a couple of deep water filled ruts and bottomed out. As he had been Gentleman enough to show the rest of us where the hazard was we drove around him and my rubbish X5 pulled him out 😂 Oh I love Yorkshire sometimes Dave

Morning Mark Glad you enjoyed your break you certainly chose the right weather. A few years ago a party of us were off to North Yorkshire for a shooting trip 3 cars all loaded with 2 old blokes all there gear and a boot full of dogs. We decided on our own Top Gear challenge, the challengers were (1.) 4.4 X5 LPG 2002 (2.) Landrover Discovery 3 2008 (3.) Range Rover TDV8 2010 loser was the first to stop for fuel (the callenge was suggested by the TDV8 driver) We all topped off the tanks at Bucks Barn services on the A24 south of Horsham (except I filled both) My Land Rover driving buddies set off TDV8 leading Across to the A23 M23 East around London M11 A14 A1M was the route about 290 miles all at normal motorway speeds to Redmire. Then 4 days of trundling around the moors the X5 went onto Petrol on the 2nd morning. Then home same route in reverse the TDV8 was the first to stop at South Mimms the Disco stopped at Dartford Crossing in true Top Gear spirit those that stopped were abandoned to the vultures. The fuel light was on in the X5 as I crossed the Thames I chickened out at Pease Pottage on the M23 and filled up with LPG and a 1/4 tank. The X5 covered 660 miles quietly comfortably and without a hitch and the best bit, I was really pleased to have beaten the two friends who had both said "why did you buy that, they are rubbish" Dave

Morning Sean Welcome to the Forum You have changed the rear brakes and say the Disc's (assume your talking front) are not warped how were they checked are the front pads clean or is there signs of chattering (odd shiny patches) could be a sign of a sticking caliper. However my money would be on the issue being front radius rod bushes they normally last around 80k depending on use/abuse dished out (Part 6 in the drawing) After 2 changes on the X5 I pressed the bushes out and replaced them with Polybushes. Front Suspension.pdf

Hi Brian I can only think there is a frayed wire in the door loom that moves now and again or possibly in the mirror housing. A diagnostic check may be a bit of a lottery unless a fault is present when its run. Are you OK with a tester and a wiring diagram? That may be the only way I am afraid. You can find the wiring diagrams on www.newtis.info Dave

Hi Sheri Welcome to the Forum Are you aware of the Government website where you can check the MOT and its MOT history https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ just put the Reg number in the search box you can also check any outstanding recalls on the same site. 2 front shock absorbers and drop links for the anti roll bar should have been fitted to get through the MOT (check the site above for any new advisories) I assume the other defects are fixed. The one to check is the oil leak take someone with some knowledge with you to check. If you still want the car use any of these things to negotiate the price down by the cost of repair after all you dont want to buy something that will cost you money straight away. Lots of X3 about so don't be afraid to walk away. Hope this helps Dave

The beer sounds like a plan Richard (thinking Juice) Progress better slow at this stage, good news is everything is turning apart from the alternator so step one If all the fluid levels are OK I would remove the belt and spin it up to get oil where it needs to be. Enjoy your cold thinking juice Dave

Hi Richard Oh Oh!! Fingers crossed it's something simple like the Voltage regulator or rodent damage. I would check the loom in the area for signs of "munching" if the loom looks OK then just pull the plug on the alternator and test again if no smoke then you have it narrowed down. The Voltage regulator is a simple change (easier with the alternator on the bench) Tip 1. A good addition to the tool box is a younger bendier assistant (i have two sons for that) Tip 2. Are you aware of Tim Meeks web site he is an 840 nut in the nicest way. check out www.meeknet.co.uk Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum Ouch, not a good start to BMW ownership Firstly are you certain it is the turbo? Boost pressure can be affected by several things. Who diagnosed the Turbo? I would get the codes read by some one with a BMW Specific diagnostic suite. Maybe a member near you or a BMW specialist near you.You could even buy one yourself and not horrendously expensive around £150 tops there are many out there. As for DIY a Turbo replacement (if that is what it is) is well within a reasonable Home mechanics capability. Turbo's are available these days at sensible prices £200 upwards just remember to factor in Fluids and Gaskets that may not be with the cheaper options. Take a look at www.newtis.info This is a BMW Technical Information site that BMW Dealers use for service/replacement and repair Then to ensure you have the correct parts use www.realoem.com This is a BMW online Parts Site put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search for the part. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ash Welcome to the Forum What colour smoke ? You really need someone with a BMW specific scanner, the codes your seeing are generic so may be a symptom caused by the fault rather than the fault. I would check www.newtis.info It is a BMW Technical Information site Dealers use this site for repair and replacement information so you should be able to get test information for sensors etc. 3F01 Boost Pressure Sensor signal to DDE Is it the sensor or a split in the intercooler or pipe work ?? 3E25 Indicates an Inter cooler issue 3FF1 Indicates either a MAF problem or the inlet manifold could be blocked/coked up 3F03 Indicates aBoost Pressure sensor issue So as you can see 3F01, 03, 25 could be inter linked or 3FF1 could be the cause?? You could spend a lot of hard earned replacing sensors pipework etc The P0326, 27 codes are knock sensor codes. Symptom ? The P3624 could be a vacuum leak or a massive air leak forward of the DPF or a faulty IMRC actuator/sensor Or you could try the old disconnect the Battery for 30mins to rest everything and se what faults return Hope this helps Dave