Greydog

Morning Richard How is the 840 in your possession yet? Another website is www.meeknet.co.uk Tim Meek is a genuine enthusiast and has a site dedicated to the 840 Oh your wild guss was correct 😁 Dave

Hi Serge Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com if the part numbers match you should be OK though mounting plates may be different. My guess would be should be OK as long as amp out put is the same Dave

Morning Dan There are the brake wear sensors easy to find as the wire leads to the brake caliper and the ABS sensor that goes behind the Brake at the hub after cleaning and re-seating try disconnecting the battery (neg first) and leaving it for half an hour then reconnect the battery. Even Dealers use this as a simple re-set procedure. Dave

Morning Brian Last question first I use BMW 1.4.0 it's cheap and reliable and does everything I need. I have had mine on an old lap top that I keep in the garage for 15+ years. Once a month when I am giving the old girl her check up I run a scan and tidy any issues. When using these programs remember that many things trigger DTC/Error codes from voltage spikes (low/high) to poor connections through damp etc (especially older models) So I scan identify any codes clear them and then re-scan only the ones which come back if any eed my attention. Google BMW 1.4.0 diagnostic for more information should cost you about £15 I would guess look for a UK supplier to avoid hassle would be my advice. Now your mirrors. I am confused here why do you need to keep adjusting them ? do they move when you turn off and lock the car ? I honestly can't remember when I last touched mine and we have 3 active keys 1. Mine 2. My wife 3. Spare. The door mirrors and seat settings are stored in the seat memory, when my key is used to open the car all settings steering wheel, seat position and door mirrors adjust to my setting. If my Wifes key is used her settings are applied. The X5 has been like this for the last 5 years at least. the only mirror I touch is the interior if shorty has driven it. When you turn off your BMW it will take at least 15min for your car to shut down and go to sleep, so sitting in the car turning the ignition on and off the car never rests/goes to sleep. If your car is an Auto beside the gear selector is a small indicator light lock your car and after about 15 mins it should go out your car is asleep. Dave

Thanks 4 Wei's and a Black Pointer 3 guess's which ones the re-home

Morning Ashley Welcome to the Forum I take it the engine and Battery are from your accident damaged X5? Are the donor car and the receiving car same Model/Year? For example X5 4.4 2004/5 into a 2004/5 X5 4.4? Who did the engine swap? Did they move the DME/DDE from the old car or are they the ones in the new car? 2004/5 models shouldn't need battery registration. So assuming the donor and receiver are the same model/year have you checked the simple stuff like engine earth and all sensors connected? When the battery is connected are you getting lights on the dash? Basically the engine as a unit doesnt know where it is so providing the sensors are OK and connected correctly the DME/DDE can receive signals, so check all connections including engine earth and starter motor. Are the fuel pumps running ? check fuel delivery at the injectors? You really need a BMW Specific Diagnostic Program to know what is going on. Dave

Morning Dan Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then check the brake section you will find a small exploded drawing that will help you identify the sensor and where it is. You also may need someone with a BMW specific diagnostic tool a quick scan will confirm if it is a sensor, clear the fault and see if it returns. Dave

Morning Brian Okay the switch is the same function just not in the Window control unit, the fact that the mirrors work albeit for a short period after a reset would make me think that there is a faulty connection somewhere that opens with heat or vibration or both Has the car been on a diagnostic for a code read? have any fault codes been reset? A BMW specific code reader should pin point the issue, (as an example mine showed "broken Wire Drivers Door Mirror) if not then I would start at the mirror checking all connections and cleaning them with contact cleaner (not WD40) don't forget the plugs in the doors and at the LCM. When I had some weird electrical behaviour with the X5 I traced it to one of the common earth points (like a comb) in the boot, once removed and cleaned I refitted it with some contact paste (used to seat CPU's in computers) probably overkill but no issues since. Dave

Morning ED The big issue tends to be with cars that (like mine) come with a staggered set up ie: wider rear wheels and people fit tyres from different manufacturers to the front and rear. While the sizes may be correct the difference in rolling radius can be scary. If you stick to the better known Brands and change al 4 it avoids issues. Cars with a square set up (same size front and back) tend to suffer less but it's worth being aware. BMW have always had a list of recommended tyre suppliers as do Mecedes and others to avoid the issues. My experience and observation is that with the older cars where owners try to run them on a shoe string and buy cheap tyres, rolling radius can be wildly out and cause damage to the transmission. I had a lad from Brighton who owns a 3.0d X5 stop me in a petrol station and tell me what Cr**p 4x4 system BMW had when I asked him what was the problem he had broken 2 transfer boxes?? We moved to the car park to look at his car, he was running 20" staggered wheels same as mine sizes looked right but rears were a Chinese or some thing brand and nearly new fronts Dunlops. Apparently the garage he uses had changed the rear tyres due to wear on the inner edges, I put a chalk mark on the bottom of the front and rear tyres and we rolled his car forward 3 revolutions rear tyre chalk mark was at the bottom front was about 75 mm different in just 3 revolutions. His garage were happy to change/repair transfer boxes but seemed unaware of the cause, he contacted me later to say he had brought Dunlops for the rear and the issue had gone. Dave

Morning Richard I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded onto an old laptop that I keep just for garage work. The program is pretty comprehensive easy to set up and use and is cheap. There are others like INSTA/INPA which are dealer level but can be a faf to set up. I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com and www.newtis.info First is an online BMW Parts Web Site put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model so you know you have the right parts. Second is a BMW Technical Information site used by the Dealer network for service and repair information (remember the Dealer has Tech's who are younger than your car 😁) search your madel or use the Vin again. Good Luck fingers crossed Dave

Hi Ed Martin our sons friend thinks he is driving a racing car his right foot is made of lead?? So if he is in the 40's close to 50 should be achievable for a normal mortal. Dave PS Just text our son and the average for Martin is 44.7 since its last service 2300 miles ago mostly town with some dual carriageway work

Hi Brian You may hate this or find it amusing here goes Your drivers door switch looks like the one below I hope? If it does the top section adjusts the mirror angle, the small single button folds the mirrors (we will ignore that). The left right selection button you set for the mirror you want to adjust ? As it is set in the picture the nearside mirror will be adjusted if you leave it in that position the mirror will not tilt down when reverse is selected, if you move it to the drivers side the near side will tilt when reverse is selected. So if you adjust the mirrors to your preferred setting Driver and passenger and leave it as the picture they should not move. If you want the tilt operation then move the switch to the drivers side. That is normal operation Was that the understanding you have? If you have electric seat adjustment and steering wheel adjustment check they are operating correctly. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ed I am not the one to ask about economy my 4.6is averages about 18mpg !!! Our sons friend has a 2010 X1 20d and he gets 40+ on average mixed driving if that helps at all. Can you not squeeze the Dealer on tyres? If they are not what you would like, that is what I would do. Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Somewhere on the wind deflector there will be a part number, once you find it check www.realoem.com when you open the program at the top of the page are 2 search boxes "Serial Number" and "Part Number" Put the part number in and it will bring up a list of applications/models it was used on. If you put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the Serial Number box it will bring up your Model so you can get the correct part number for your car. I just had a quick look and the part number for your car is 54347269437 As the deflector you brought is to small I would guess that is for the 1 series I hope this helps Dave

Hi Ed Welcome to the Forum To try and answer your questions the diesel variant you have experience of and your new car will very much the same motor if you go the Diesel route. Xdrive, when I brought my first X5 we had sold our Horse Lorry and decided to use a Horse Trailer so needed a vehicle capable of towing it with a couple of fat horses on board. At that time I was running an AMG CLS, I didn't like the Mercedes ML shape I had suffered a Range Rover so went for the X5. A good friend who happens to be a Land Rover Discovery fan said "what did you get that for they are rubbish off road". Well 18 years on and I have never been stuck with either of the X5's though I will admit a slippery field or snotty gateway even an isolated track when out shooting can't be classed as "Off Road". However the X5 has pulled many others out of the mire including a certain Gent with his Discovery and the only thing I add is a set of wheels with Wintrac extreme tyres mud,snow and ice it keeps going just pop in 3rd manual and let the torque do the work As far as I am aware it will come with runflat tyres summer flavour. So an investment in winter tyres and wheels may be worth while if you are off to Europe skiing (we haven't had snow in Sussex for years) All 4x4 cars have an Achilles heel with tyres, they don't tolerate differences in rolling radius between front and rear or across axles it puts pressure on the transfer box (transmission wind up) which can cause expensive damage. Apart from that drive it and enjoy it Dave

Morning Noname Welcome to the Forum You say you have changed the Lock and checked the wiring at the hinge/transition point, but did you test for continuity or just visually check the wiring? Can you lock/unlock using the Key Fob or do you need the key to operate the lock ? If the car thinks the boot lid is open the alarm can't arm (flash) Take of the boot lid trim and check the continuity of the 4 wires from the lock to the other side of the transition point. I am assuming the Fog Lights Number Plate lights etc all work normally My money is on the signal wire (Grey/White IIRC ) having a break A couple of sites that may help www.realoem.com a BMW Online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up yout model, If you buy parts make sure the part numbers are correct. www.newtis.info A BMW Technical site Main Dealers use this for repair and replacement information use your Vin again. Hope this is helpful Dave

With a clutch problem I would guess somewhere between £500 and £900 depending on how good the rest of the car is Dave

Morning Brian I assume you mean your folding mirrors? If so the battery disconnect is a reset so I would look else where. The drivers door window control switch is the master but seems to be working as you have operation after reset, it may be as simple as the motors in the mirrors need lubrication or the limit switches are playing up (be careful they are fragile) if one is acting up it will affect both sides. Normally if its the limit switches the mirrors will close then open again. Hope this is some use Dave

Morning Richard Wow what a find. To protect your find as much as possible I would pull it out and trailer it away. From underneath get a socket on the crank and turn it by hand to make sure it hasn't seized. If it turns OK I would remove the spark plugs and put some diesel into the bores remember after 5 years the top of the engine will be dry (no oil) check the oil to make sure that's OK if possible give it an oil/filter change. Then in the boot check/change the batteries (if you weren't aware there are 2) or if the batteries are there and test OK a jump pack on the jump points under the bonnet. Take care I have read that if only 1 battery is changed serious damage can be caused. Once you have power spin it over several times without the plugs to (a) clear the diesel that has been lubricating the rings and (b) get oil pressure (oil light out on the dash) Now assuming fuel pumps are working plugs in and give it a go, all things equal it should start providing damage hasn't been done to the electronics by clumsy jump start efforts. Good Luck keep us posted Dave

Hi Will Paranoia is good it can save serious wallet damage Depending on how it's life was prior to you owning it will determine what you do, modern diesels are not happy with short journeys they never get hot enough to clear the emissions stuff EGR and DPF. So I would add some injector cleaner to the tank and run it through then the old "Italian tune up" (my son's description he has a Toyota pickup diesel ) As most of his journeys are short he puts the injector cleaner in runs it and then at the weekend gives it a good 50 mile Motorway blast (tune up) for part of it he keeps revs at around 3k in 4th this ensures the exhaust temperature gets high enough to let the DPF burn off the crud.We have cleaned his EGR twice simple but messy job. Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum There are many sources of upgrade Angel Eye Lamps from Cree to some Chinese imports, Motor Factors Ebay or Halfords are all selling them. So as the saying goes we make our choice and pay our money, Cree are well respected and were one of the first in the HID/LED upgrade market. As for the rest Iphone's have become a pain as they change the charge point and size, but you already know that the same is true of the other "nice to have" toys Me I just listen to that old V8 never ceases to keep this old boy amused Good Luck Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Daniel Holy moly what a muddle BMW use Brown as a Common Earth/Ground wire but what the others are I am guessing like you. Is the radio OEM or after market? They could be a reverse camera perhaps? Or rear entertainment for children? Get the old tester out for the Tow plug harness my X5 came with the OEM removable Towbar and single electrics, may be the clever clogs had wired his own twin electric system, if it helps the OEM cable is Black. Take a look at www.newtis.info there are wiring diagrams which may give clues Happy Hunting Dave

Morning Billy Not done this but a good upholstery adhesive would be my guess, as to the fix I would think it would need to have the liner removed to make an effective fix. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. I find the exploded drawings helpful and you will have correct part numbers if buying stuff. The other helpful site is www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical information site Dealers use this for repair/replacement and how to's Good Luck Dave

The Lotus was Brutal so if there were going to be issues I would have found them?? Progress for you

Hi Daniel Smart move removing all the dodgy stuff, normally when a towbar is fitted the rear parking sensors are disabled when the trailer electrics are plugged in. The parking sensor control unit has 3 plug positions on the top 1. rear sensors 2. front sensors 3. Bypass for tow pack.. Not sure how much you are into BMW's but here are a couple of websites that may help. 1) www.realoem.com This is a BMW Online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model so if you need spares you know it's right for your car..It also has small exploded drawings that help with where stuff fits. 2) www.newtis.info This is a Technical Information site that the DEalers use for replacement/repair information. Good Luck Dave