Greydog

Morning Andrew First as you have described water ingress finding the cause of the water getting in would be my starting point as any fix is likely to suffer the same fate as soon as it rains again. My 4.4 X5 suffered from water getting in around the rear lamp units took a while to find but the fix was silicon sealant when refitting. I had ha repeated PDC failures plus a Radio failure all due to water damage. Check the roof drains are clear all seals are good. If you are not aware look at www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings will give clues to where stuff is fitted and part numbers if replacement is needed. Good luck Dave

Hi Martin For every Yay there will be a Nay. The simple fact today is modern/new Diesel engines are very complicated mainly by the emission control systems which are where short journeys take their toll. The same is true of modern petrol engines which today have similar emission controls they just clog less as they produce less soot. Not opinion just science and fact, think about it the air filter on the engine, it is there to make sure the air entering the engine is as clean as possible. The filter is changed at service because it clogs, for an efficient engine keep it clean. Inside the engine after the fuel is burnt it carries all sorts bits into the exhaust some carbon some soot some unburnt fuel and oily deposits, the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) recycles some of these gasses so they are re-burnt. Helping to reduce emissions in Petrol and Diesel engines, diesel by the nature of the fuel also produces soot and oily deposits which at low operating temperatures tend to start to clog the system over time giving issues. The DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is there to further clean the emissions (new petrol engines also have a DPF system) due to the amount of particulates that escape the EGR system. The DPF is a filter so like the air filter eventually becomes clogged, unlike the air filter changing it is not practical. The DPF therefore has a regeneration cycle where it reaches incredibly high temperatures to burn the particles trapped in it. Short journeys don't allow the engine or DPF to reach temperatures where it can regenerate. Not opinion not hearsay but scientific fact. All modern engines will produce excellent MPG figures combined with low emissions but only if the emission control systems are working correctly and maintained at a high standard. Me I stick with my big V8 it will see me out and my neighbours will never think I came home in a Taxi 😁

Hi Will The prices you have sound high side I would check www.realoem.com for the correct battery for your car then check out Halfords among others. I brought a new AGM battery 800cca 90a/hr for my X5 for £112 last year so the deals are there any garage with decent software can register the battery plus the AA/RAC Dave

Morning Brian The last mini I had was in the 1960's but here goes ?? What made you think there were "fumes" in the header tank if you have a head gasket issue I am not sure whether the additives will work. As for the temp gauge it would appear that there is a dead short so I would back track through what has been removed to see if a cable is pinched damaged (check all insulation) or in the wrong place. Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model. Search the relevant sections for information there are small exploded drawings which will help to understand what goes where, plus the correct part numbers for replacements Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum If your battery is original it could well be the source of your issues. When you used the power pack I hope it was on the Charge points under the bonnet to avoid any damage to electrics. Remember when fitted your new battery will need registering to your car to ensure correct charging, Dave

Morning Clive Sorry old head on yesterday, yours is the USA spec N54 so you have 2 cat's so 4 lambda sensors. Some welly and letting the car clear it's throat seems to have helped a little, watch out for the Mounties 😈 Smooth at that pace aren't they 😁

Morning Karl Welcome to the Forum Carried out this job on my brother inlaws 535d touring and his previous 530d which I assume will be the same as your motor. The inlet manifold has to come off to give access to the control unit so in your that far in you may as well change the Glow plugs as well (if you haven't already) plenty of release agent on the glow plugs and give them time to soak. When we did his 535 we also changed the Glow plug relay to be sure the whole job took us about 4 hrs with coffee biscuits and beer. Dave

Morning David Glow plugs and Glow plug controller Dave

Morning Clive She isn't giving you much rest is she !!! The main warning and the probable cause of the CEL is the O2 sensor one. I would spend a while checking the inlet side for leaks Vac lines and pressure side plus test the sensors and their wiring. If I recall you have 3 sensors, 2 pre-cat and one post cat, check the wiring hasn't been damaged and the correct resistance on each sensor. If one is out personally I would change all 3. With INPA when I brought mine I purchased from a guy in Banbury UK who gave excellent support and spent some time on the phone with me getting it running. As far as the missing DLL if you have a windows disc you should be able find and load it from there. We have had a sprinkle of snow here and 10 days of freezing temps and my LCM has gone on the blink, damn and its only 17 years old !! These things never go wonky on a pleasant sunny day do they. Take Care Dave

Morning Al Not aware of any here in the UK have you thought of M2 parts ? Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum Runflats is a can of worms, and while originally sold as safer due to the ability to drive on them. It doesn't stop them getting punctures and once punctured, as the tyre does its job and it gets driven on it generally needs replacement rather than repair. The tyres construction means stiffer sidewall so harsher ride and an increase in road noise. However all low profile tyres can be noisy or give a harsh ride generally non-runflats are cheaper with a wider choice available. It should also be noted that runflats have a special rim design. Non runflat tyres will fit but you cant fit runflats to a non-runflat rim. My brother linlaw runs 5 series touring (last 2 have been 535d flavour) once the runflats fitted have reached change he goes to non-runflat due to greater choice. His car runs 245x40x19 front and 275x35x19 rear and currently on Bridgestones My old X5 has always been on non runflats so no issue for me. Dave

Morning Kevin Like all rubber parts the airbags have a life (a pretty tough one under the back of an X5) There are many folks who have changed the air suspension to springs and many kits available from Motor Factors or the well known auction site, The replacement spring kits are about the same cost as replacement air bags and the air bags are really easy to change. My air bags failed, well one did and I replaced them both with Arnott air bags same cost as springs but I retain the self levelling for towing. Stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff springs and air bags. The old saying "buy cheap, buy twice" it isn't worth gambling with the bits that keep your car on the road (my opinion) So I would jack it up and listen for where the leak is, check the pipework but my bet is air bag split and as they have lasted 16 years why not replace them. Two clips one top and bottom and an air connection bit of lube sprayed on the knee joint of the sensors job done for another 16 years??? Plus it keeps my X5 original which I prefer. If you change to springs you could strip out the compressor and sell it to recover some cost but you will still get the Sus Inactive message unless you code it out Dave

Morning Alan Can't help much with parts outlets but are you aware that BMW do offer pretty good support system and discounts for the older models plus of course the BMW specialist breakers. Are you aware of www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box, obviously your model will be in the classic section. Once you find the relevant part number if you double click on it it will show you equivalent's and other models it may be in. Good luck with your classic Dave

Morning Antonio Try using the Idrive selector to show Radio or Nav, what does the Handbook say? Dave

Morning Thomas Welcome to the Forum I went through the same dilemma a long time ago, my X5 4.6is was reaching the end of it's extended Warranty what to do?? Well after trying new X5's (E70's at the time) and a few other Marques F Pace Jag, ML Etc, I decided to keep the 4.6. As an Engineer I have always carried out a lot of work on my cars myself driven by a need to know and a mistrust of some dealers (that's another story). I found a local BMW Specialist who I use for annual service/MOT and of course keeps the service history up to date. I also took out an after market Warranty in case something major went wrong 1/3rd of the cost of the BMW cover and when needed were excellent. My X5 is now 18 years old and still going well I inspect the car once a month under and over plus a diagnostic check to make sure it's in good health. If anything shows up I make a decision on whether I will fix it or get the garage involved. My original decision to keep the car was based as an Old retired bloke on the cost of replacement against the cost of running on a car I really liked. Long term did I make a good decision ? I think I did for two reasons if I had stuck with my (up to the 4.6) 5 year upgrade I would have born the cost of 2 upgrades by now were as all I have had is fuel and running costs. Another plus is the fact that the X5 4.6is was rare in 2003 only around 800 registered total in the UK the last time I checked it was below 300 so maybe one day I will have a classic with 156k on the clock and it still leaves hot hatches dead if needed. Only you can make the final choice but if you really like the car I would consider after market Warranty to protect your wallet and run it on. Dave

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum Thanks for the heads up a good find Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum I think you may have posted in the wrong spot, if I am reading your post correctly it says X3 not 3 series However BMW like to place the battery in the boot under the floor, if they are charged or jump started directly at the battery damage can be caused to the electrical system. The car should be charged at the posts under the bonnet or jump started there as well. I hope that is the case with your X3 and that it hasn't been jump started at the battery. Normally disconnecting the battery negative post first then live (some people touch the 2 terminals together to discharge any static) and leaving it for 30 mins then reconnecting 30 mins is important as the car takes a while to self test and shut down systems. Reconnect Live first then Negative this should reset everything. If not then you will need more help as your car has several computers that need to see/communicate with each other. May be a member near you who has a Diagnostic program like Inpa/Insta or PA Soft 1.4.0 or a reader capable of fault reading a BMW can help? Fingers crossed it is simple Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum Clearly for some years there has been no oil leaking onto the sump or it wouldn't have rusted. Has it come from a part of the country that has used lots of road salt or coastal salt spray perhaps? With regard to your question about the MOT. In your picture the under guards have been removed to access the engine. For MOT they would be in place so the sump would not be visible, MOT inspectors are not allowed to remove guards to inspect cars/vans so unless an oil leak is obvious (dripping) it won't be reported on the MOT, some inspectors qualify their inspection by commenting that covers were in place. All that doesn't alter the fact that your sump doesn't look good and me personally I would change it, Doesn't have to be new just in good condition so check Ebay and the specialist BMW breakers. Dave

Morning Thomas Welcome to the Forum What delivery time have they given ? It maybe worth a phone call to see if they can fit it ? If you don't try you will never know Fitting after delivery just takes the car off the road while its fitted, plus the cost of course which will probably be higher at the dealer Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Morning Antonio These are things for you to physically check in your car that may help find the source of the rattle. Once you find it you have to decide whether you are capable of fixing it or whether you are going to pay a garage. Inside the car you should have a sliding section you can slide forward to cover the sun roof often a cause of rattles if loose in its runners 1. Sunshade/Inner roof closed, if you slide it closed is there a rattle ? If not OK 2. Sunshade open/Inner Roof rattles With someone else driving feel all around edge of the sun roof pressing on the runners etc to see if you can stop the noise 3. Sunshade/Inner roof open Sun Roof closed is there a rattle ? 4. Sunshade/Inner roof open Sun Roof open is there a rattle ? 5. Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof tilt, Is there a rattle ? 6. Sunshade/Inner Roof open, Roof open is there a rattle ? Dave

Morning Roz The splash guards/under trays are only at the front, a 1 piece panel between the bumper and the sump guard/brace plate. I have had 2 E53 X5's and seen the underside of a good few more but never seen covers beyond the back of the sump. There are heat shields above the exhaust ? Do you mean those Dave

Morning Ross Rust around the screen can only be sorted with the screen removed, rust and paint repairs will be your biggest job/cost and you seem to be on top of that. For other spares and replacement parts use www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list put your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model, then search the relevant sections. Once you have the part number or numbers you can search for the best cost/supply route, don't dismiss BMW they do offer some good discounts for the older models. Good luck with the restoration Dave

Morning Jim Checked all the usual suspects Shocks, springs, spring mounts, antiroll bar mounts and drop links ? Has the car been lowered ? Diff mounts OK, Drive shafts and Wheel bearings OK Thats your weekend sorted 😁Hope this more help than hinderance Dave

Morning Samantha Check www.realoem.com its an online parts list when you have located the part/number double click it and it will bring up a list of alternatives. Once you have the part number try the BMW specialist breakers and of course Ebay. The fact you have had 3 seems to point to other issues, loom switch relays, have you had the motor checked? Good luck Dave

Morning Ros Welcome to the Forum I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com (BMW online parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the section to find what you need. It will give part numbers that will help if searching for replacements. There are also small exploded drawings that will help with what fits where. Hope this helps Dave