Greydog

Hi Ian Just did a quick google www.onlineautomotive.co.uk might have what you want Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Could be part of the re-circulation systems for cooling turbo etc? I have to say I have not heard this before so that is a guess Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My sons friend just brought the same part, then they used my garage and tools (tea, coffee, beer) to fit it He brought it from Bosal (BMW OEM Supplier) using the BMW part number think it was around £150 from memory Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin number in the search box to bring up the model, then search for the part number you need. Then cross reference against after market suppliers. I am sure you can find what you need at a sensible cost Good Luck Dave

Hi Matt No need for clutch just position 2 if the relay or fuel pump are on the way out or intermittent it will give it time to build pressure 30 secs should be enough and see if it will then start. If you are not aware here are a couple of site s that may help. www.realoem.com a BMW parts site put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Makes sure you have the correct part numbers if buying stuff. www.newtis.info a BMW Technical Information site BMW Dealers use the same information. Dave

Morning Matt If you buy a Diagnostic Tool make sure it is BMW Specific as a Generic tester will give some codes but wont see all the modules and sensors. Something like ISTA/INPA or BMW 1.4.0, they can save you a lot. With out diagnostics I am guessing but the problem you have (but here goes) First check the Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump relay try turning the ignition to position 2 but don't start. Listen for the fuel pump after about 30 secs try a start if it fires but stutters my guess is fuel pump or relay or both. It could be injector related or injector loom related, it could be a sensor on its way. As you can see without diagnostics you could end up throwing money at the problem. My best guess money stays with fuel pump or relay Good Luck Dave

They don't need any other proof of how aged I am just date of birth 1943 was a Vintage year 🤣

Morning Siddhartha Welcome to the Forum Your X3 is fitted with a front and rear diffs connected through a transfer box at the back of the gearbox. The diffs front and rear have no pump attached so the fact that you say you can hear something running I would suspect the following as suspects. (1) air re-circulation fans and auxiliary water pump which can run for 5 mins after shut down to protect the turbo. (2) If you have rear air suspension the pump can run to maintain pressure it will normally only run up to the point the car goes to sleep. If it is running for 5 mins I would suspect a leak, the suspension pump is in the boot. Dave

Morning Bruce Welcome Back Getting older !! We may get older and wiser but there are no rules on growing up !! Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Hi Tim Welcome to the Forum A short time ago the BMW 3 series with the straight 6 engines came out as the most reliable by far. The F30/F31/F34 2011 to 2019 right up to 330i are 4 cylinder with turbo the 335i is 6 cylinder and is the one voted most reliable. My personal choice would be the six cylinder in either flavour (Diesel or Petrol) both are silky smooth the diesel obviously returning better MPG. Good Luck with the search Dave

Hi John Sorry to hear you have suffered at the hands of one of the Clumsy brigade, we can only hope that they suffer a similar event. A decent body shop will be able to do a scratch repair without it costing the earth Dave

Morning Ben There are 2 parts inner and outer that hold the sensor in place see the attached exploded drawing items 5 and 6 they just clip together then the sensor slides in from the rear. The inner rear sensor holders I have had to change due to them cracking at the bottom (narrow point) fortunately they are easy to get to being close to the tow bar cover. Good Luck Dave

Top Man 😁

Morning Trey They are out there old Alpina's and the like If you are the type who loves working on your car you can achieve amazing things. I have seen an E91 530d with 400hp and 950nm torque mid range acceleration that makes M5 owners weep plus 30mpg. What gets missed is the money and hours invested an M5 would have cost less 😁 How ever what the owner has is unique and it's his, who knows one day it will turn up as a barn find

That will get the job done ☺️

Good News Andy When looking at realoem and newtis if there are any "extension or connection looms" needed you will see where they are and what the part number is. As an example my X5 had a Motorola phone in the arm rest I converted to Bluetooth which is straight forward but needed an extension loom and eject box which were easy to find (Ebay) and easy to fit "Plug and play". With the diagnostic program it isn't just fault finding you can register stuff to the chassis if needed as well as turning on functions that BMW leave turned off and would obviously charge for. Dave

Hi Davvid Who replaced the battery? it may need registering to the car or it may not charge correctly You can do it using ISTA Dave

Hi Andy Welcome to the forum Have you cross checked part numbers as trim parts often are used in several models if you aren't aware www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the vin in the search box and check part numbers. I would also check out www.newtis.info to look for howto's as it is a BMW technical site Dealer level information. Both sites have exploded drawings so you should get/see all the information you need. On a 2006 model most of the harness should be in place with only heater switches needed and plugged in again the lumber adjustment are the seats electric adjustment? if the plugs are there then you probably need fuses and relays As the original seats had airbags disconnecting the battery should throw lights on re connection When I got the BMW I brought BMW 1.4.0 a diagnostic program which I keep on an old laptop it allows me to do lots of stuff and keep the old girl up to date. Dave

Hi Muhammad Welcome to the Forum If the belt is not fitted correctly it can slip fray or come off completely. If that happens and it catches other stuff it could become a lot more expensive than just a belt and tensioner. I have seen a frayed belt that destroyed the aircon pump so fix sooner than later is my advice Dave

Morning Mark Life was simpler with fixed service points modern cars measure all sorts of parameters before a service light comes on, however not everyone gets the car serviced even to these schedules. BMW normally recommend 15k oil changes Tyre and Fluid checks full service is around 30k intervals. Extended service is based on synthetic oils durability but 44k is stretching a point. I still change oil and filter twice a year for me there is a perverse (my sons would say OCD) pleasure in seeing clean oil on the dip stick of the X5 even at 160k There are lots of cars out there Mark buy with your head not your heart why put your hard earned at risk Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I am not certain but I thought Efficient Dynamics models were introduced around 2008 on the 1 series not sure for the 3 series, 128g/km is the Efficient Dynamics 2.0d CO2 figure though As far as I recall cars with efficient dynamic packs have, Stop Start, Brake Regeneration, Air Vent Control, Electric Power Steering Take a look at BMW Vin Decoder it should pull up your build sheet if any of these are missing I guess it isn't Efficient Dynamics Personally I don't like stickers anywhere as often they are just Advertising for the supplying dealer who probably hasn't seen the car for many years so I remove them Good Luck and Enjoy your new car Dave

Just had a look I can't believe I couldn't see on e in Ashford ??? Found them in Sevenoaks, Bexley, Dover, Dartford, Maidstone and Strood What the hell do they drive in Ashford ?? Dave

If the battery wasn't registered to the car it quite possibly hasn't been receiving a correct charge. I would start by hooking up a good charger/battery re conditioner for as long as possible. I use a Ctek MXS 5 I still hook up my X5 once a month over night. If you don't have a charger then start the car and let it run to charge as you already worked out. A healthy battery should test as 12.8v ignition off around 14v engine running/charging. The slow/hard start could have been the original battery dying then continued as the new battery wasn't registered to the car. The original battery should have been 70ah AGM 800cca or something close. The diagnostic program I use is BMW 1.4.0 it comes with all the leads to connect to the car BMW INSTA/INPA like wise both programs are easy to find online INSTA is the most comprehensive being Garage quality in all the functions available but 1.4.0 has served me well. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum What a great find ENJOY For a BMW Specialist Garage try https://the-bmw-specialist-register.com. you should be able to find one near you but as the old saying goes check them out talk to customers if you can. All manufacturers have for some time touted extended service intervals based mainly on long life oils. However as an old engineer I don't trust extended period servicing a lot can go wrong in 24 months so I have a regime of oil and filters 6 monthly and I inspect all bushes tyres & wheels (inside and out) I have a diagnostic program BMW 1.4.0 on an old lap top so run a scan. One service is carried out by my local BMW Specialist to keep the book stamped and the interim by me. My Brother inlaw has a 530d touring (his 3rd) he commutes into Germany for work so all have inter galactic mileages he used RS ECU Tuning on all 3 it adds around 40hp and a shed load of torque with very little effect on MPG or reliability so win win. Good Luck with the new motor Dave

Hi Josh A general code reader certainly wont read all the control units, your diesel has a a fuel relay as well worth checking, as are the glow plugs controller and relay. A BMW specific code reader will be a help with the 328i as well. I use BMW 1.4.0 and it finds everything and in English to Two things come to mind from your description (1) starter motor, if the starter is on it's way you could be getting massive current draw at start killing the battery then once started you get malfunctions due to low battery voltage. So check the current draw at start use a clamp Ammeter there are cases of 900+ amps being drawn by failing starters. My thinking is dealers tend to hook up to power boosters as they do a lot of diagnostics engine off. (2) What is the battery condition/age as a dying battery can give similar symptoms. Dave

Hi Josh Welcome to the Forum Dealers can be great at throwing OUR money at problems they should be able to fix!!! Do you have access to a diagnostic program? If not a copy of INPA/INSTA on a lap top or BMW 1.4.0 are a great help and not horrendously expensive Foxwell also have some excellent readers but a little more expensive. If you use a code reader with www.newtis.info a BMW Technical information site (Dealers use this same information) for repair and replacement of stuff and have reasonable DIY skills you should be OK. Use www.realoem.com to make sure you have correct part numbers when replaceing stuff just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. When you say hard start does it crank but no start or is it lazy cranking? if it's cranking well it could be an intermittent fault with the crank sensor as the dealer has indicated fuel pressure is OK. I hope the information helps Dave