Greydog

Whoop Whoop great result Nick in another 30 years you will have caught me up getting older does have some benefits £340 on the X5 4.6is £248 on my wifes heavily modified Perrin Subaru 3.0 Outback And yes I still feel 18 at times 😂😂

Morning Claudio Welcome to the Forum Diagnostic readers can be a boon or a PITA while they can all read fault codes as you have discovered some really are not that helpful. You need a BMW specific reader such as INPA or BMW 1.4.0 The first thing they will explain what the issue is, example my Parking sensors were intermittent BMW 1.4.0 doesn't give just a code it shows Sensor rear centre right as a description. I have 1.4.0 set up on an old laptop that I use just for diagnostics BMW 1.4.0 only cost about £10 when I got it Now your problem, a lot of SRS issues are caused by the seat occupancy sensors and connectors particularly after a car has had a few years of "bums in seats" If you haven't already check www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. This will give 2 things 1 a small exploded drawing so you can see how things fit 2 part numbers so you know your getting correct replacements. Also look at www.newtis.info use your Vin again or just search the model info. This is a BMW technical information site that will give you the same information as a BMW Dealer to allow repair and fault location. Hope this helps Dave

Not heard of that one before Stu Mind I try to avoid bouncing off rocks and stuff !! More a leisurely stroll with the dogs

Morning Breck When I ran the Mercedes estates I used a piece of cord carpet that I stuck to the under side of the boot liner so that when I opened the boot it could be folded out to protect the bumper when the dogs hopped in and out. The carpet came as an offcut from Carpet Right and they hunted around and found some black to match the carpet colour in the car. I fixed it in place with double sided carpet tape. We use the same system with my wife's Subaru Outback. Or you could check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search to see if one is available. Dave

Morning Tony It's amazing how they get there isn't it, we don't have any trees close by but I still get leaves and debris there?? I use a crevice tool on the hoover and a soft 1" paint brush seems to work well Dave

Yes he is it's a Fiesta 😂

Hi James On my X5 (earlier E53) if I turn on the ignition with the expansion cap off ( tested mine by putting the car in D so I could turn to the engine run position with out cranking) the Auxiliary pump circulates water into the expansion tank. I would guess that if yours isn't doing it then you may have a faulty Auxiliary pump. The procedure they show in Newtis for your model is, Venting cooling system: Brake bleeding procedure is maintained automatically for a set period of time. During this time, marginal conditions are continuously checked and the brake bleeding procedure is automatically terminated in the event that these are violated. The following preconditions are continuously monitored by the DDE and must be adhered to in order to maintain the brake bleeding procedure: Automatic transmission in position "N" or "P". Manual gearbox clutch not operated. Engine at idle (presses on accelerator are possible). driving speed is less than 3 km/h. Coolant temperature on engine start <50°C. Starting the brake bleeding procedure: Switch on ignition. Set heater to maximum temperature and turn blower down to lowest speed. FES (driving experience switch) must not be in ECO PRO! Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Start the engine within 30 seconds. If the engine is not started within 30 seconds, the function is reset. If the brake bleeding procedure needs to be performed again (e.g. in the event of a leaking cooling system), allow DME to fall completely (leave ignition key removed for approx. 3 mins) then repeat from point 1. Once the function has been started, a counter runs (10 minutes) whilst the aforementioned marginal conditions are satisfied. Once this period has expired or in the event that the aforementioned marginal conditions are violated, the function switches automatically to normal operation. Then adjust fluid level in the coolant expansion tank to maximum. I guess you are following those instructions ? So a code read is needed to let you know if your Auxiliary pump is working Dave

Morning James Water pumps don't fail often (doesn't mean they don't) with the engine running and the cap on the bleed screw should be tight also. Let the engine reach operating temp then just crack the bleed screw (like a radiator bleed screw in your house) any air you should hear escaping plus bubbles. If its just coolant then tighten up job done You should have a secondary/auxiliary water pump electric that runs to circulate hot water before the thermostat is open. If you check www.newtis.info for the dealer sequence for checking and bleeding Dave

Morning James Which engine? Diesel or Petrol? What is the issue you are having? You say you have topped up the coolant is there a leak? When the car is running and up to Temp is the gauge needle in the middle ? Does your car have auxiliary heating? If the issue is no heat in the cabin it could be a number of things other than the water pump. Thermostats there are 2, 3 on some models, there are flow control vales that allow hot water to the heater matrix and an auxiliary water pump. Then there is the embarrassing one the centre vent roller needs to be in the red section to allow heat to the cab many have thought there is an issue but the roller is in the wrong position. Load of questions but some information may help in working out what the problem is Dave

Morning Phil X3/X5 are very similar apart from engines the X3 have 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 engine in both flavours Petrol and Diesel the latest models even have hybrid tech. X5 3.0 in both flavours and V8 petrol 4.4 to 4.8 My opinion is that the Achilles heel for all modern engines are the extended service periods that all manufactures tout, so my advice is oil changes annually or every 5k in my case to protect. Modern Diesels also have DPF/EGR issues if short journeys are the norm, a good charge on a motorway once a month helps I am told . Tyres are the nemesis for all 4x4 if there is a difference in rolling radius front to rear the transfer box can be damaged so when replacing tyres I try to ensure I change all 4. Off road our cars are not hardcore off road warriors (even the Land Rover boys beef stuff up and buy special tyres) but driven sensibly are OK I pop the box in manual select 3rd and let the torque work. Slippery grass fields and snotty gateways towing the horse trailer no problems, While out shooting muddy farm tracks and more slippery gateways (have you noticed farmers always put the gate in the muddiest corner of the field?) and not needed rescue yet. I am on my 2nd X5 which originally we brought to tow a horse trailer after selling the Horse lorry in 2003. The first X5 was a 4.4 and I have to say faultless for 3 years then while out shooting a large tree blew over and squashed an Audi 2 pickups and the X5. I replaced it with the 4.6 X5 (now 156k) which has been an interesting learning process, but both cars have performed off the beaten track while towing at Horse shows and out on the shoots and never faltered. I was in Germany in 2007 and snow closed down a lot of areas but the X5 on winter tyres just kept going. I have a friend who is a Landrover Discovery disciple he looked at the X5 and said "buy a good tow rope you will need it" Happy to report I have never been "towed" but have smugly towed him out off the sticky stuff twice 🤣 Bit of a ramble but I hope it helps Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Looks really good as you have it and with an ECU tune performance mid range in particular should be a hoot.😈 Oh, Get the soap off quick before it dries streaky 😁 Dave

Hi Martin Your catching me up, it is easy getting down but a lot harder getting up again 😂 I hadn't thought of trying something like that, it doesn't melt plastic or rubber or it wouldn't stay i in the thing they sell it in. I would say worth a try maybe a drain un-blocker product ? Thinking of that a plumber friend told us to put a bottle of Coke down a blocked drain and leave it as long as possible, it worked cleared the blockage and cheaper than the stuff from Tesco. Good thinking Martin Dave

Morning Ben Tyres take care as they can be a huge issue with AWD cars of all makes The X5 is sensitive to differences in rolling radius between front and rear tyres so changing tyres needs some thought particularly with staggered set ups. BMW/Mercedes had agreements with tyre manufacturers to make sure the rolling radius is within tolerances. If the front and rear are out of tolerance you will get transmission wind up and ultimately damage to the transfer case and or diffs. If you are needing tyres due to uneven wear (inside edge) the lower ball joint is probably worn so it makes sense to make sure all is good before shelling out on tyres that won't last long. On my 4.6 my last set of tyres were Accelera Iota (recommended by a guy on another site) and they have been a pleasant surprise great price and decent handling in all conditions 18k on them so far. I got them from Oponeo delivered to a local fitting centre and had all 4 fitted and 4 wheel alignment. Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin The filter on the pump is clogged with a jelly like substance caused by using a washer fluid that didn't have a fungicide in it being used (BMW will tell you theirs is the only one) So unfortunately it isn't really possible to clean them properly without access. My wife's Subaru has the washer bottle under the wing behind the splash guard, so to get at it it's wheel off, splash guard out then I can get at the washer reservoir.and pumps. Yes the same issue so not just BMW, but it takes me less than an hour once a year if that and I am not a fit bendy young thing anymore. It will always need doing as it isn't always possible or practical to find a screen wash with fungicide in it. In October last year I brought 3 x 5 ltr of BMW screen wash from Amazon cost about £10 for 5 ltr from memory and we still have most of one left in the garage. Dave

Nice job but will you get more road rash and crud along the side of the car Dave

Morning Mark Lucky boy ENJOY I can only pass on my personal experience, my X5 runs staggered 20" wheels as standard tyres are non run flat and due to the low profile tyres ride quality and road noise (depending tyre make) I would describe as hard to harsh. By comparison my 18" winter wheels are a quieter and better ride. So I guess it comes down to aesthetics and your own levels of acceptance, me I run the 20" wheels as they just look better on the car. That and the fact we haven't had a heavy frost let alone snow for the last 5 years (done it now) means the 18" have stayed in the shed. Dave

Hi Sandra Welcome to the Forum A little more in formation would help which engine? Normally there will be hard plastic pipes between the Throttle Body and the Air Mass meter then from the Air Mass meter to the Air filter housing This drawing may help Dave

Hi John If you have the Auto H button below the Parking brake if you haven't activated it then I think you have a definite issue with the auto hold system on your car. It is supposed to help when pulling away on hills etc it shouldn't be affected by the fitting of a towbar. Talk to your Dealer they should be able to carry out a diagnostic check, Dave

Hi Claire When the "Drive Train" warning is active it will restrict engine performance to prevent damage as advised a second opinion is the answer. A diagnostic session will identify the issue Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum It seems you need the Towbar electric pack tested or changed by whoever fitted it. I take it your trailer brakes are being applied ? In the UK normally the rear parking sensors are disabled when the trailer electrics are plugged in. I do know that trailers over a certain weight in the US have electronic brake assist is that your issue Dave

Morning Jemma Welcome to the Forum First check out the Sale of Goods Act you will still have protection there after only 6 months Then the car at 3 years old and 20k I am assuming it's service history is BMW probably PDI by the supplying dealer and its first service? Was the supplying Dealer BMW or an Independent? BMW UK Customer services are worth a try. Now the turbo the issue could be a hose split or off which is something that any home mechanic could fix so get that checked first. If it is the Turbo it's self then contact Midland Turbo.com I have heard god things about them and they are one of the few who will touch BMW turbo's Sensible costs as well. Dave

Morning Rob Welcome to the Forum The BMW 3.0d is one of the worlds great engines and with good maintenance will deliver Star Ship mileages. Don't forget to get the gearbox serviced at the recommended service points as well. ENJOY Your 5 Series Dave

Morning Philip £350 to clean the filters on the washer pump 😅 !!!!!!! Extra piece of advice find another BMW Dealer or bring it round I will do it for half that 😂 Your washer reservoir has 2 pumps 1. Front screen/ Rear screen 2. Headlamp washer system (if fitted). Each pump has a small fine mesh filter on it to stop debris blocking the jets it is these that clog. BMW screen wash has a fungicide included some others don't so a jelly like substance forms clogging the filter. The pumps are push fit into a rubber grommet the filter is a push fit on the end of the pump. I don't know how accessible the pumps are but even on my wife's Subaru outback (yes same issue) where the reservoir is under the front wing behind the splash guard it is less than an hours work to remove it clean it and put it back. I just need a bucket under the reservoir as when the pump is pulled out all the contents empty out. Wash the filters in clean water or buy new if you wish, replace I always put a smear of silicone around the pump seal to make sure (a) it goes back easily (b) it seal with out leaks. My X5 the washer system is in the engine bay and easy to get at so the same operation can be completed in 30 mins or less. If you are even mildly handy with a screw driver I would do it yourself Dave

Morning Claire I agree with John, I would be suspicious of the Dealer. There is a BMW Specialist Register (Google is your friend) take a look and find one near you. A "Drive Train" warning can be triggered by many things other than the drive train. You don't say which model or engine but if petrol Coil Packs and or Spark plugs are known to fail and will trigger the warning. As will fuel pump issues (petrol and diesel), low oil levels (engine and/or gearbox) low coolant level causing over heating. So as John says talk to a BMW Specialist they will have the experience and knowledge to offer constructive advice Dave

Morning Breck There is a set sequence for storing the memory settings to the drivers seat there are also a set number of settings that can be stored, 4 I think for your car. If all memory settings are used they must be cleared before you can store yours. 1. Store seat and exterior mirrors. Move the seat and mirrors to your setting press M it illuminates then press the number (1or2) that you want to use. The position is now stored. Push and hold which ever button you used and the seat should move to your set position 2. If you want to store the settings to your Key Fob go Settings in the Idrive the Door Key should be checked select Profile make sure the profile selected is free (not checked) select the profile with the check box then press lock/unlock on your key fob seat settings are now stored on your key. When you unlock the seat/mirrors will move to your settings. Remember if all the profiles are checked then you have someone elses prefferences stored, UN CHECK them to clear them sometimes you may have to disconnect the battery to clear settings. Dave