Greydog

Hi Justin My brother inlaw had a Stainless system on his second 530d which was remapped to around 300hp all I can remember is the cost of the system was around £1500, he had it fitted in Southend I think and that was about 5 years ago. Sounded good though Apart from contacting the specialist exhaust fabricators and getting quotes I don't have any other suggestions Dave

Hi Iko Welcome to the Forum Your basic engine is capable of handling about 300bhp beyond that then serious bottom end changes need to be thought about. It depends on how far you want to go but breathing is top of the list, so my thoughts would be look for the cylinder head from a 3.0i this would give bigger valves an more lift if you got it with the inlet and exhaust manifold I would expect around 220/230 bhp with very little issues with your engine assuming it is in good condition to start with. Forced induction brings a whole lot of additional considerations whether it is positive super charging (belt driven), turbo charging or NOS systems a simple fact is more air needs more fuel. So the fuel supply needs to be considered, fuel pump, injectors and ECU map, then the exhaust needs to be able to get rid of the extra gas, the cooling system also needs to be up to the extra heat generated. As already stated if your engine is in tip top condition then around 300bhp will be the limit on a stock bottom end with stock pistons and rods. To go further I would expect to line bore the block have the crank crack tested and nitrided and balanced then fit forged pistons and rods, upgraded oil pump. We haven't even discussed the drive train yet. Another option would be to scour the web for a complete engine or better yet donor car such as E90 335i (300+hp) E39 330i (270hp) I dont think there would be much difference in cost either way However the simplest would be trade up to a 530i or 540i less pain and you get the whole package brakes steering suspension the whole thing. Or a 535d similar hp but way more torque, and with a remap more torque than the M5 and its torque that accelerates your car? Worth considering Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Roland BMW use Westfalia as OEM suppliers, here in the UK there are a large number of Tow Hitch suppliers and fitters who would be capable of doing the job including the wiring harness which would be included. Price for the kit here I would guess at around £600 to £650 fitted. As John says the wiring harness comes with a clever little switch box and disables the rear parking sensors and fog lamps when a trailer is plugged in. If your not aware 2000kg 4400lbs is your tow limit with the X3 Dave

Hi Stephen Welcome to the Forum Not sure if the 3 series suffer the same issue as 5 series but worth a look, sometimes the antenna in the 5 series mounted in the rear boot spoiler suffered water ingress causing the same symptoms. Try holding the key over the rear antenna to see if that helps with opening As your key starts the car there doesn't seem to be an issue with the transponder in the key only with the remote locking/alarm activation. Check out www.newtis.info to see what you can learn from there the site is a technical site, BMW Dealers use the same information for service and repair. Also look at www.realoem.com this one is a BMW online parts list so when buying spares you know it will be correct and fit. Dave Note you seem to have posted in the X5 section not the 3 Series section maybe the Mods could move it 👍

The clutch will not operate without gas pressure in the system.

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum Sounds a Bargain Enjoy your new (to you) Beemer Keep it well serviced, my personal preference is for oil and filter changes every 5k as an old engineer I don't believe that extended service intervals help engines even with modern synthetic oils, My brother inlaw has a 530d touring (his 3rd) he commutes into Europe for work we carry out interim oil changes and the car is BMW dealer serviced for all other needs the current car is approaching 250k. All 3 have had the same treatment and have reached the starship mileages.Don't forget the gearbox and diff oils when servicing. A good ECU tune should see around 180hp which will make your 1 series very lively indeed, it goes with out saying Brakes, Suspension and Tyres need to be in tip top condition with any tuning upgrades ENJOY Dave

Hi Brent Welcome to the Forum First as a limited edition it will give it some value but only to those who (a) Know what it is (b) Want one Try contacting AC Schnitzer UK they should be able to give you more information/confirmation/history have you checked to see if there is an AC Schnitzer Register they should have a record of all models produced. Good Luck Dave

Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box and it will call up your model. Then look in the wheels/tyres section it will show if a space saver was available for your combination Good Luck with the search Dave PS We have only suffered 1 puncture on all 3 cars in the last 10 years, that was a nail in my wifes rear tyre from one of the farriers not sweeping up?? Now she sweeps up after the farriers have been regardless. What I am trying to say is punctures today are a rarity normally on very worn tyres or a freak nail/screw like my wife's.

Morning Ian Your PanRoof I think will be your big head ache from what I have read there are a couple of "fixes" or a complete new cassette either way its a pain. That is why I searched for one without a sun roof. Personally I would fix the aircon and leave it shut. The aircon 99% will be gas, aircon systems loose a small amount of gas every year in general use so after 5 to 10 years will reach a point where there isn't enough pressure to operate. It is worse if it has been turned off for long periods, many think they are saving money by turning it off particularly in winter months. What happens is seals dry out and crack causing leaks, don't panic there aren't that many seals and they aren't expensive replacing seals is a DIY proposition. First I would get the system re-gassed even Kwick Fit have the right stuff. they just connect to a machine that first pulls a vacuum. If the system can't hold a vacuum the machine won't re-gas the system as it indicates a leak (leaks are normally seals, or possibly condenser (tip if it is a condenser leak change the dryer as well) They can put in a coloured dye that should show where it is. My first step would be re-gas if you want to DIY Halfords do re-gas kits as do good Motor Factors. I know what you mean about road works we seem to be surrounded at the moment (maybe a Government plot to stop us going anywhere 😈) that and as you say more traffic. As a retired Old Bloke I can avoid most sticky times 😁 Dave

Hi Martin Good to know your making progress In my garage I have the unused spare wheel complete with tyre from my 4.4 which ran 19" staggered alloys which you are welcome to. The problem is where would you carry it ? It would take up a far amount of room in the boot, I have a can of tyre goo and a small compressor which sits in the right hand rear cubby on the 4.6 and (tempting fate) I have only used it twice both times rescuing others. I never had a flat with the 4.4 and so far none with the 4.6. BMW actually supply the same compressor and tyre goo solution themselves.take a look at www.realoem.com Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum I haven't heard of fuse or relay issues normally regas is the answer, however I believe the relay is in the fuse box in the engine bay. Take a look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical site Dealers use the same information for service and repair. Also check www.realoem.com this one is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then check the sections there are small exploded drawings that should help locate stuff. You could also try www.pelicanparts.com another American site with loads of how too's and pictures apart from having the steering in the wrong place very helpful. You may also find some help with the Pan roof (not BMW's best effort) and fixes on these sites. Where have you been to find traffic !! You've been to the seaside haven't you😂 Dave

Hi Jason I did read about some early variable vane turbo issues but they were way back 2007/8 certainly in the UK there have been no big issues. I still put a lot of the problems down to extended service periods. The oil seals harden in the turbo particularly as the oil thickens with age/use 40k is along time on the road lots of heat cycles. The engine in the mini and its turbo are a joint venture with Citroen/Peugeot I believe and not known for their robust nature. As an aside one of my sons works for a company here who rebuild/recycle turbo chargers they cant get BMW stuff until it is beyond saving As always proceed with caution what is it they say "Head not Heart" and squeeze the life blood out of the dealer for Warranty and Support Packages Good Luck Dave

Hi Jason Welcome to the Forum Just because we have had the sunshine splashing out and going topless Huh!! First while extended service intervals are common these days as an OLD engineer I have never trusted them so personally I would still change oils and filters at least annually The 135i BMW straight 6 is one of the worlds great engines as tough as a tough thing, at 80k with good maintenance it is just about run in. Good Luck with the new car Dave

Hi Trudy Welcome to the Forum You need codes read to be certain what the issue is or even if you have an issue at all. I have read that a simple reset often cures the problem. Turn off, remove key leave 5 or 10 mins restart and see what happens. Or disconnect the battery for a while that resets stuff also. If the fault persists you really need the codes read to have a chance of diagnosing the problem, a BMW dealer will be the most expensive, a BMW Specialist would be better or a good Independent Garage with something like Autologic will be able to run a diagnostic check if the fault returns. Good luck Dave

Morning Mark A new key from BMW will be around £110+ I would think, I have read that there is a Company on Ebay who repair keys for around £25 worth a look. Dave

Morning Nick As they have begun work under Warranty the Dealership have accepted it isn't a "normal characteristic" they will normally have discussed warranty work it with a BMW customer service manager. What you don't want to do is risk them saying "are but others have been here and may have disturbed something so it isn't our fault" so I would keep away from independent inspections unless it is a different BMW Dealer of course. Good Luck Dave

Hi Nick I would email to them first outlining your concerns regarding the fact that (1) They seemed to have problems diagnosing the issue first off (2) After further investigation they provided a repair which is not satisfactory. Point out that this has reduced your confidence in the reliability of the car and their ability to maintain it, ask what action they will take to rectify copy BMW UK Customer Services (you do need to give them an opportunity) Then go and see them let them explain the course of action they intend to take. If you find it unreasonable escalate your complaint explaining that you have spent good money with them but they have not provided goods that are "fit for purpose" and you require them to repair or replace them in a timely manner, if they cannot then a full refund would be your only recourse. By doing this you will have a record of what is happening that is a legal document should things get bumpy. Dealers vary, my local dealer is very good efficient and helpful, I used a Dealer 15 miles away and they were the absolute pit's. The Service Manager was arrogant to the point of rudeness. so sadly we pay our money and take our chances. I am sure they won't let it get that far Good Luck Dave

Morning Mark How frustrating is that First check the fuses in the right hand cubby in the boot 2 to check 7.5amp and 30amp if either are blown. If the fuses are OK the compressor should run, however if a clumsy fitter has clouted one of the ride height sensors when removing/replacing a wheel so check both are OK and the knee joint needs to be pointing at the wheel not inwards. Last is your battery OK low battery voltages on a tired or failing battery will trigger the fault. If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com there are some small exploded drawings that may help, also www.newtis.info Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike The drive shaft should have a compression locking ring that fit in groove on the splines that go into the diff. They normally need a fair amount of force to lever them out an when they go back in they need a good clump to compress the ring and get it seated. Have a look at www.realoem.com for the correct parts and either www.newtis.info or www.pelicanparts.com for "how too" information Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum I risk "Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs" but here goes, Turbo chargers in simple terms are exhaust driven superchargers. The exhaust side spins a common shaft that turns the compressor turbine. The compressor turbine pulls fresh air through the air filter into the turbine and pushes it out at higher pressure. The act of compressing the air causes heat so the compressed air takes a convoluted route through an intercooler before it gets to the inlet manifold. Any leak will make a whooshing sound. I did read about this problem with an X5 and it was an incorrect seal fitted at the intercooler. I would hope that at one or more of the joints in this high pressure side a seal has not been seated properly or a clamp not tightened, fingers crossed for you and your dealer that is the issue. The Sale of Goods Act is on your side as a real last resort,. but as the dealer has already attempted a repair they can't really not correct it. I would point out that while they have carried out work under warranty they have not inspired confidence in their ability to solve the issue in either the quality of workmanship or parts if the repair only lasts 3 weeks. Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum As with any used car purchase "Eyes Wide Open" general condition and service history are paramount. 97k is not excessive, what engine transmission and accessories are fitted are all things that will effect the price you pay/negotiate. Whether you can carry out repairs yourself or not again will effect whether it is worth the risk One of my sons brought a very cheap 09 325d touring Auto with a cracked exhaust manifold and a clogged EGR plus a couple of other small related engine issues £600 and 3 days work and we had it back in fine fettle, 3 years on it is a really nice car to drive. So it depends on you and your ability both my sons have grown up helping Dad tinker build and fix all sorts of stuff so are very capable home mechanics. Had they not been and had to rely on a garage the 3 series would have cost around £2k I would estimate at garage rates. Good Luck Dave

Morning Stephen Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical information site Dealers use the same information for repair and service information. Also use www.realoem.com this one is an online BMW parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up you model/year then look in the relevant section. This will ensure you get correct parts for your model. Dave

Hi Stu Remember the reprogramming is only for the Remote Access a new key will have to have the transponder in to enable starting, not sure if just getting a key cut will work?? Dave

Hi Martin Bargain of the year !!! The M54 straight six is one of the worlds great engines so with good maintenance will last and last. Gearbox tends to be the weak point as they often never get serviced just complained about when they break. If your not aware tyres are important to protect the transfer case and rear diff. Petrol consumption on the 6 is about the same as the V8's due to the cars weight apart from that great motors. Enjoy Dave If you haven't picked it up yet www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Makes sure your buying the right bits when you need them. www.newtis.info BMW Technical information used by Dealers for service and repair

Morning Martin You can buy the batteries if you need to repair the key fob, plenty of videos around showing how too do it If you don't have one a BMW specific code reader will prove invaluable, something like BMW 1.4.0, INPA, Carly for BMW, I use 1.4.0 which is mounted on on an old laptop which I keep just for garage work. Is yours 3.0, 4.4, or 4.6 like mine? Dave