Greydog

Morning Alan At 173k the turbo is quite a high probability, seals wear particularly if at some point in it's life it has some gaps in service. If the turbo actuator is suffering that could also cause kick down issues. A refurbished turbo for my sons Toyota pickup cost about £200 and we fitted it on a Saturday morning. To make it easier check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and get the part numbers to make sure you get the correct Turbo also make sure you get all the gaskets and seals it would be unwise to try and change it without. Dave

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Hi Steve Looks like a plan to me, for trim, wheels,seats and even brakes you could try some of the specialist BMW breakers. I have found Quarry Motors really helpful in the past there are several others. Exhaust wise how about a 325d system cat back ? Dave

Hi Faheem That is interesting information on the injectors, have you looked at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site it may have more there? I always believed injectors were rated for the volume of fuel so as long as the injector was from the correct part list it should be OK ?? Good luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum A little help to narrow things down, what model petrol or diesel. if petrol which engine 3.0, 4.4, or 4.6 has it been LPG converted. How many miles has it covered? Does it have any service history/ In general blue smoke is oil burning off which could come from a number of sources, worn valve stem seals, clogged EGR system, vacuum leaks there is quite a list. As for your kick down issue the poor old gearbox rarely gets attention until it is causing problems 2 boxes were used (1) GM 5 speed on the early X5's then (2) ZF. I doubt the gearbox has ever had a service as BMW in their wisdom stated "sealed for life" which really meant the end of their warranty (60k) So it could be that you disturbed a connector when changing the fuel filter, it could be low on gearbox fluid by the way there is a gearbox breather that enters the engine bay I did read where someone connected it to the EGR by error thinking it had come loose the result was fluid sucked out of the box and clouds of smoke. I would get the box serviced by a specialist if you can't do it yourself or at a minimum get the box codes read. If your doing fluids don't forget the diffs and transfer case. Dave

Morning Faheem Just took a quick look at www.realoem.com the part number is 13537589048 no index number shown alternate numbers shown are 13537565137 and 13534548853. No where does it mention an index number so at a loss with that. When changing injectors I would think that a set is the smart way to go if you can afford it new, refurbished would be my next choice if on a budget. Also remember the O rings and seals. Good Luck Dave

Hi Steve If you aren't aware here are a couple of websites that may help 1. www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list have a look at the "sport"and M3 versions of your car for suspension and brake parts. That will make certain you have part numbers that will ensure any bits you buy will fit then scour the web the auction sites and specialist dismantlers for deals on the parts you want/need Remember exhaust and inlet though these may have to be aftermarket. The brakes should be pretty much a straight swap though big brakes may need bigger wheels. 2. www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site same info as used by Dealers some good stuff with how too's torque settings etc. A good remap should get you around 200 bhp and 400 nm so your baby will fly Enjoy Dave

Hi Steve Welcome Dave

Wow just Wow Enjoy Oh and Welcome to the Forum Dave

Jay Any OBD reader will read codes from the main modules and give a general code P0xxx, my X5 has 3 pages of readable modules and all modules have sub sections. Google BMW 1.4.0 or BMW INPA or Carly for BMW there are many out there and look at some of the screen shots. The amount of information they give is vastly superior to general codes.

I would at a guess say they are the same. But check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box if there are different part numbers for Europe and USA that could be your answer.

Morning Scott The egr valve on my sons Toyota pickup clogs as he only does fairly short local journeys, the first time we cleaned it and the inlet hoses it worked fine the second time it looked fine but just didn't operate when it was on the car for some reason. New EGR fitted and all good again remember to clean the inlet pipes and hoses as well his were in a dreadful state. P0401 is a generic code a BMW diagnostic would be better, as you have a hard peddle are you sure all the vac lines are in the right place? Dave

Sorry Jay But the fact that you have codes p0300 etc tells me it is a generic code reader not BMW specific those are general codes read from the DME My reader (BMW 1.4.0) reads every module fitted to the car and gives a clear explanation of any faults in English as and example I currently have a fault with the rear parking sensors. The fault doesn't give a code it simply says "rear inner left sensor fault" in English there are 4 sensors 2 outer 2 inner so finding the offender is simple. Get a BMW specialist to read the codes or ask if there is a member near you with a reader other wise you will just throw money at it. Dave

Depending on mileage the list is quite long, timing chain, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, failed or failing sensor, frayed loom to any of the sensors. The car needs to have the fault codes read using a BMW specific scanner otherwise you are asking us to guess, the cost of changing parts will be crazy. I would start with a code reading session Dave

Check www.newtis.info for wiring diagrams which could give a clue

Morning Steve I am guessing here so bear with me. My thinking is that your camera at the moment is piggybacked from a fuse circuit that when the camera wakes up/is disturbed in parking mode it is waking up your car which then goes through full self test increasing battery draw. If this happens several times in a night it could be your problem. First I would disconnect the Blackvue camera to check that is the issue, second if whoever fitted the camera used a piggyback fuse arrangement I would remove it and take a temporary fused supply from the cigarette lighter or under bonnet jump terminal that way if the camera is awake the whole car isn't. Finger Crossed Dave

Morning Matt Welcome to the Forum I use BMW 1.4.0 with my X5's since yours was made and have helped a few others folks with different models (3, 5 series and X3) by carrying out a diagnostic read. You will be able to read codes clear and reset all control modules in the car for your information there are 3 pages depends if all options and accessories were fitted as to how many you will see. You will be able turn on/off functions within the module control also.things like alarm chirp, auto locking etc again a couple of pages of tick box choices. So my experience with 1.4.0 is good, it's simple to set up is user friendly and gives good information. I use it in conjunction with some websites like www.newtis.info a BMW Technical information site and www.realoem.com a BMW parts site to make certain you get replacements that are going to fit. There is also good information at www.pelicanparts.com great how too's with pictures you won't find much diesel engine information as it is an American site and they still think diesel is only for trucks but everything else is there just the steering is on the wrong side. Good luck Dave

Morning Steve Obvious question but here goes, have you googled Blackvue's website to see if there is an online guide or downloadable handbook? Goodluck Dave

Morning Sam Emissions out of whack can be upset by many things from a clogged fuel filter or air leak to worn injectors causing over fueling are just a few. Changing parts is a very expensive way of fixing the issue as sods law dictates you will change a whole bunch of stuff unnecessarily. You do need the diagnostic codes read, that will give you a clearer picture on what and where the issue is. I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded on an old lap top not expensive (about £15) and gets the job done there are many others available and the ability to do a "home" code read is invaluable. Obviously a BMW Dealer can do it but £££ as can a good BMW specialist (there is a Register of BMW Specialists just Google) less ££ and of course a good Independent garage again less ££ or maybe a member on here who is local to you has the kit, worth asking. Also check www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical information site same information that BMW use for repair/replacement information. www.realoem.com is another useful site this is a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box it will bring up your model, it has useful small exploded drawings that will help with were parts fit. Not an answer but I hope helpful Dave

Morning Jay I did read some time back about an issue like this that turned out to be a worn coil pack loom which was failing under load. Has your mechanic checked both the coil pack loom and injector looms ? Good Luck Dave

You are welcome Also worth considering the gearbox may need a service the older 5/6 speed boxes (as fitted to my X5) should be serviced every 100k kilometers. However BMW in their wisdom stated sealed for life?? many gearboxes suffered with a lurch/hard down change on slowing to a stop. Worth considering getting a gearbox service done, as you have just brought the car maybe twist the Dealers arm a bit Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum From your description I would guess gearbox mount or UJ/Doughnut coupling. The 330 diesel can produce serious torque so bushes take a hammering, after all you have been driving like Miss Daisy's Chauffeur but the previous owner may have been a tad enthusiastic 😁 Dave

Hi Joe Welcome to the Forum First are all the accessories OEM or has a different radio/nav been fitted or a bluetooth unit? If all is OEM I would check that the car goes to sleep once shut down and key removed, it can take 15mins for the light on the gear change to extinguish the X is now asleep. There will always be a draw but in Mili amps to keep clock time radio memory etc. If the car is going into sleep mode and there is a higher draw then it is a case of pulling fuses until you find the circuit that is causing the draw. I am assuming (a stupid thing to do) the new battery is correct for your car that the car is in regular use and you have had the alternator output checked. If the battery isn't charging correctly plus short journeys will cause the problem as will worn starter motors (not uncommon) check the amperage at the starter if it is high it will knock a new battery back very quickly also check the tightness of the main leads at the charging point under the bonnet and the starter. If the car isn't in regular use then I would use a Ctek charger charge and condition the battery on a regular basis Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin Our logic and that of the folks who put the site together are clearly at odds I found this in the Electrical system folder for a 320d https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=8D12-EUR-07-2015-F30N-BMW-320d_ed&diagId=61_2896 Also try www.newtis.info for how too information link below https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e93-320d-cab/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-67-headlight-cleaning-system/ Good Luck Dave

Hi Tunebyear You can also get some great information from www.pelicanparts.com an American site so the steering is on the wrong side but they do have some really good "how too's" with pictures. An 8 year old is a useful tool to have in the box, they are much bendier and tend to be intuitive with techy bits. Dave