Greydog

Morning John A couple of other sites I use www.newtis.info this is a BMW Technical Information site same info as used by BMW Dealers. It is their repair and service manual with luck descriptions and how too's will be there. If not look at www.pelicanparts.com this one is an American site (so steering wheel on the wrong side) but full of very good how too's with photographs I have not heard of your problem before but I would look for Heater AC sections Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy That is not standard, take a look at www.realoem.com I would say someone has fitted an adjustable spring lowering kit. Looking at your pictures something is out of kilter particularly if the other side is straight ( you don't say) My first thoughts are if whoever the last owner was has fitted a lowering kit, how hard have they ragged the car generally especially as it doesn't seem to have been well fitted. Dave

Hi Mark Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model then look under the engine section and the inlet manifold will be with or without flap control. Obviously if it has flap control it has swirl flaps. Same for your other car though I think only diesels have swirl flaps. Dave

If the pipe is blowing off something is causing excess pressure, either a fault in the high pressure pump a blocked or damaged pipe or a connection is damaged. It doesn't make sense to just refit the pipe if it keeps blowing off?? I would at a minimum be changing the return pipe blocked/faulty injectors would have been causing all sorts of other issues.

If it only happens when the AC is on I would be checking the integrity of the Condensation drains that normally give the little puddle of water under your car when idling on hot days. Take a look at www.realoem.com search your model and look at the exploded drawings for the location of any drain tubes. Remember getting to them behind the dash may need the help of a contortionist. Dave

Welcome David What your seeing are Generic codes you really need a BMW specific code reader like BMW 1.4.0, INPA, Autologic or similar they will be more specific in their description. Regarding the codes your seeing they are associated with vacuum leaks 171 and 174 normally appear together which is why your being asked about 171 particularly as your engine is inline. Have you checked for air and vacuum leaks include the crank case breather, I would also check the loom to the coils for any cracks or faults. Dave

Hi Derek Welcome to the Forum My first though is somewhere the return line is blocked/restricted, I don't have a diesel but even the petrol models have a fuel return with a fuel return valve. Worth checking if yours has a fuel return valve and if it's working? Also check the fuel filler cap is correct for the car Let us know what they find Dave

Hi John Don't dismiss water entering through the passenger door check the membrane in the door is undamaged and sealed, plus silly one is/was the passenger window fully closed? Dave

Hi Brian Your not the only member from the US with regards to your car it looks great. For help with information here are some sites that will be useful. www.realoem.com this is an online BMW parts website just put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model then look for what you need it will give part numbers so if buying spares you know they will fit. Plus small exploded drawings to see how and where they fit. I also use www.newtis.info a BMW online technical information site, the same information used by BMW Dealers, great for How Too's Last but not least www.pelicanparts.com this is an American site with plenty of information and how too's with pictures. Also if you don't have a code reader they are invaluable in sorting issues I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded on an old laptop Great to have you aboard Enjoy the Beemer Dave

Welcome to the Forum Micheal When was the last time the car was serviced? When was the last time the last time the gearbox was serviced? You really need a Garage with the ability/equipment to read the fault codes your OBC faults pictured are not accurate just an indication. Take the car to a BMW Dealer or a BMW Specialist or an Independent with at least Autologic software they will be more able to identify the issues then once you know what it is and the cost to fix you can make informed decisions. As an example transmission could be as simple as it needing a service. Smoke could be condensation/coolant in the exhaust or oil mist through through a clogged EGR filter or a split pipe or something internal in the engine. You certainly wont get the cars worth if you try to sell/trade it with the Dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it not running.right. Dave

Morning Karen I would talk to some of the BMW specialist breakers (oop's think we have to call them re-cyclers now) The M52 engine was used in many other models so there will be a low miles M52 engine out there, they came in 2.0 2.5 and 2.8 any of which will fit and with your sensors and ecu connected have you back on the road Remember you should tell your insurers if you put a bigger lump in. The only thing to be aware of is early engines are single Vanos latter engines were twin Vanos if you go twin Vanos you will need the engine loom and ECU/DME Just had a quick google and there are several M52 engines from £300 up if you added around £1000 for labour (another oop's I am assuming you're not going to do it yourself my daughter will nag me if she see's this) and items like oil, antifreeze gaskets etc and your back on the road for about £1500. If you go with a 2.8 your back with significant power hike and if I read correctly a possible improvement in economy. Hope this helps Dave

I would talk to a couple of garages to get some comparison costs between rebuild or replace with a used/refurb unit. Once you have the costs you are in a stronger position to make a decision Cars tend to have 2 values the hard nosed market value and the emotional attachment value, only you can answer that question. Dave

Give them a call or mail them, I had a Dynavin unit in my 4.4 X5 and it was very good (better than the overpriced OEM kit) plus they were very helpful before and after sale.

Welcome to the Forum Mark Look forward to seeing some pictures when you can Dave

Tough one to give any advice on as neither you or us know what we are dealing with. If I recall split screen function used to be controlled through the navigation program I still think the after market unit is blocking some OBC functions. May be consider going back to OEM or change to another Aftermarket unit but a recognized one like Dynavin

Morning Mark First when you say plugged in a scanner, which scanner a BMW specific scanner will read each module and isolate faults so you know where they are a generic reader will give a list. Within the list some faults will be symptoms of others so fix one the others go away. I did read some time ago that there was a common fault with engine ECU's that caused a misfire loss of power fault. You will possibly need a BMW Dealer or BMW specialist or a garage with a minimum of Autologic software to check, just a thought are you in the AA/RAC I think they use Autologic. Dave

They are all scared of meaty V8's 😈

Hi Charlie Is it OEM? or is it a an aftermarket unit if it is after market it may have issues communicating with the cars OBC which will limit functions without manufacturer information it is difficult to assess

Welcome to you and your Dad Charlie Dave

Niiiiice Enjoy

Wise words from Upt'North also consider this, you say the car is Xdrive that makes a huge difference with tyre choice. All 4x4 cars SUV's Pickups have an issue with different rolling radius tyres across axles and particularly front to rear. If the tyres are different makes at that low mileage something is wrong. First different rolling radius will kill the transfer box on the back of the gearbox (Not Cheap) BMW recommend "star" rated tyres so that front and rear are within tolerance particularly with a staggered set up as this car has. Maybe the last owner changed the wheels for a second hand set? Are they BMW stamped genuine wheels? My neighbour has a 430d x Drive with 20" wheels but his are not staggered. Again as Upt asks if this is a BMW franchised dealer they should know better? If you decide to go ahead I would be asking for a set of matching approved star rated tyres or at least a reduction to cover the cost (£1100 ish) and make certain it has a solid warranty just in case there are transmission issues down the road. As Upt advised plenty out there so don't rush Dave

Morning Ian A little more information for us to make a best guess such as mileage, service history, and what kind of use (short journeys or Motorway) With the limited information first step get the codes read you need a garage with Autologic as a minimum preferably a BMW specialist or if deeper pockets a BMW dealer. Loss of power could be MAF failing, EGR clogged, DPF needing regeneration, Turbo or turbo actuator, swirl flaps failing, sensor failed, Fuel delivery and filter. The list is long and the last thing you want to do is chase the fault changing parts that is a very expensive route to take. Dave

It was 2006 when I took the Subaru to them in Southend they built the whole system headers back and to any casual observer the tail pipes even look OEM just a little bigger. So from outside it looks and sounds stock (with a bit more base) off the line it scares super cars and mid range is epic, even more fun as we are both in our seventies and that really shakes up the Porsche brigade. There have been many debates on the US websites regarding straight pipes H pipes or X pipes let us know what you end up with Dave

Remember you have a diff it will allow rotation if 1 wheel is off the floor. If both are off the floor the opposite wheel will turn, more important is when turning can you feel any roughness or snatchyness? Vibration under load start at the back check the prop centre bearing then slack in the transfer case (front drive shaft to front diff) then all drive shafts and last but not least wheel bearings. Engines get serviced but often the drive train is forgotten particularly when BMW say sealed for life??? I had a vibration at 3k+ it took awhile to track down eventually I found it when I had to replace the water pump (twice) I inspected the engine viscous fan and it had a chunk missing from one of the blades left it off no vibration. So I have fitted an electric fan. Dave

Morning Jonathon I did read some time ago where people got the "rattle" it seemed to be CAT related when temperatures were low and before the car warmed up. But as yours is warm and slowing down? How many miles? Has the gearbox been serviced? A good autobox/ZF centre should be able to tell you if it is Torque converter noise. Let us know the result Dave