Greydog

Tough one to give any advice on as neither you or us know what we are dealing with. If I recall split screen function used to be controlled through the navigation program I still think the after market unit is blocking some OBC functions. May be consider going back to OEM or change to another Aftermarket unit but a recognized one like Dynavin

Morning Mark First when you say plugged in a scanner, which scanner a BMW specific scanner will read each module and isolate faults so you know where they are a generic reader will give a list. Within the list some faults will be symptoms of others so fix one the others go away. I did read some time ago that there was a common fault with engine ECU's that caused a misfire loss of power fault. You will possibly need a BMW Dealer or BMW specialist or a garage with a minimum of Autologic software to check, just a thought are you in the AA/RAC I think they use Autologic. Dave

They are all scared of meaty V8's 😈

Hi Charlie Is it OEM? or is it a an aftermarket unit if it is after market it may have issues communicating with the cars OBC which will limit functions without manufacturer information it is difficult to assess

Welcome to you and your Dad Charlie Dave

Niiiiice Enjoy

Wise words from Upt'North also consider this, you say the car is Xdrive that makes a huge difference with tyre choice. All 4x4 cars SUV's Pickups have an issue with different rolling radius tyres across axles and particularly front to rear. If the tyres are different makes at that low mileage something is wrong. First different rolling radius will kill the transfer box on the back of the gearbox (Not Cheap) BMW recommend "star" rated tyres so that front and rear are within tolerance particularly with a staggered set up as this car has. Maybe the last owner changed the wheels for a second hand set? Are they BMW stamped genuine wheels? My neighbour has a 430d x Drive with 20" wheels but his are not staggered. Again as Upt asks if this is a BMW franchised dealer they should know better? If you decide to go ahead I would be asking for a set of matching approved star rated tyres or at least a reduction to cover the cost (£1100 ish) and make certain it has a solid warranty just in case there are transmission issues down the road. As Upt advised plenty out there so don't rush Dave

Morning Ian A little more information for us to make a best guess such as mileage, service history, and what kind of use (short journeys or Motorway) With the limited information first step get the codes read you need a garage with Autologic as a minimum preferably a BMW specialist or if deeper pockets a BMW dealer. Loss of power could be MAF failing, EGR clogged, DPF needing regeneration, Turbo or turbo actuator, swirl flaps failing, sensor failed, Fuel delivery and filter. The list is long and the last thing you want to do is chase the fault changing parts that is a very expensive route to take. Dave

It was 2006 when I took the Subaru to them in Southend they built the whole system headers back and to any casual observer the tail pipes even look OEM just a little bigger. So from outside it looks and sounds stock (with a bit more base) off the line it scares super cars and mid range is epic, even more fun as we are both in our seventies and that really shakes up the Porsche brigade. There have been many debates on the US websites regarding straight pipes H pipes or X pipes let us know what you end up with Dave

Remember you have a diff it will allow rotation if 1 wheel is off the floor. If both are off the floor the opposite wheel will turn, more important is when turning can you feel any roughness or snatchyness? Vibration under load start at the back check the prop centre bearing then slack in the transfer case (front drive shaft to front diff) then all drive shafts and last but not least wheel bearings. Engines get serviced but often the drive train is forgotten particularly when BMW say sealed for life??? I had a vibration at 3k+ it took awhile to track down eventually I found it when I had to replace the water pump (twice) I inspected the engine viscous fan and it had a chunk missing from one of the blades left it off no vibration. So I have fitted an electric fan. Dave

Morning Jonathon I did read some time ago where people got the "rattle" it seemed to be CAT related when temperatures were low and before the car warmed up. But as yours is warm and slowing down? How many miles? Has the gearbox been serviced? A good autobox/ZF centre should be able to tell you if it is Torque converter noise. Let us know the result Dave

Morning Andrew My exhaust (E53 4.6is) is still as fitted when new, 16 years on it's still OK. Dinan in the USA were one of the first to explore upgrades Cams, Super charging and Exhausts. The first I read about were "X" pipe front silencer removal. They say it gives a little power hike and "better" sound (being Yanks I read better as LOUDER). Personally I don't want a shouty car (New RR SC 5.0 New M3/M4 for example) my 4.6 has a nice burble and my neighbours certainly don't think I have come home in a taxi plus I don't wake them up if I leave early. But that's me and my 4.6 my wife's car is a Subaru 3.0 Outback with a Perrin twin turbo engine (450 whp) the exhaust is a 3" stainless system Longlife and it doesn't get shouty until 3k+ Longlife are a respected system producers and as the old saying goes you don't know until you try? Plus these days £200 is not wallet busting when second hand part systems are selling for that much on ebay. Let us know the results if you try it maybe before and after recordings ? Dave

Before doing anything is your battery in tip top condition and fully charged ? 12.8v at cranking 14+v with engine running What makes you think of the drive shaft? do you have noises or vibration? Often these codes are linked, Firstly ABS, 4x4 and Steering Angle have you had the ABS control unit checked? Not an uncommon fault on more than one make/model of car. Steering angle sensor can be re-set by driving forward turning the steering lock to lock. Most common Airbag fault is the occupancy unit under the passenger seat poor earth or bad connection in the plug. Just got one popped up on my passenger door airbag.

Ha Ha that will do it removing the Suspension Inact message is a "check box to disable" you need a friendly soul with INPA or BMW 1.4.0 or similar you can select which check warnings are displayed at start up. I don't understand why people are scared of the air suspension systems and swap them for springs when the air systems are simple to work on particularly the rear only self leveling systems on most X5's. The wife doesn't read the forum then He He Dave Should have said if you find the friendly soul if the look at the LCM module you can see all items in the "Check Control" just un-tick the suspension

Morning Terrence Not a diesel driver but I have owned (and still own) super charged and turbo charged petrol cars so my thoughts would be. Turbo's do wear and whistle as a result, a whoosh on Deceleration could be a waste-gate blow off stopping over boost on the overrun. I thought most these days bypassed any over boost into the exhaust to silence the Whoosh so check the plumbing again. The whistle rising to a screech doesn't sound right to me I would suspect a worn turbo I am afraid. Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum ask away but most of all ENJOY your BMW Dave

Welcome to the Forum "Upt" Not sure about the "brains" bit but happy to help when we can and squeeze you dry of any knowledge you may have. I have been through the same thought process myself, twice! I brought the X5 to tow a horse trailer, first was at 5 years I went to a Warranty Direct cover as it was soooo much cheaper than BMW. They were brilliant covering some biggies. At 16 years old they no longer offer cover but now do I get rid or keep the car ?? Well there were only 800 odd 4.6is registered now there are only 400 left so do I have an appreciating classic?? As we have other cars I have kept it. As I have invested a lot of time and money learning all it's little foibles and idiosyncrasies it is now like a comfortable pair of boots. Dave

Morning Ali Great Vid thanks for posting it I am sure it will help others. If you are not aware here are some sites that may help you in the future, www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list make sure your buying the right parts. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and off you go. www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site as used by dealers.Last but not least www.pelicanparts.com this is an American site but has great step by step how too's. Dave

Have a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search for the parts you want/need it will have the correct part numbers so when buying your sure (a) it will fit (b) it should work.

Morning Adam Loosing coolant if it hasn't stopped after changing the thermostat? You need to first look for signs of an external leak? Any signs of drips under the car overnight? No damp or wet carpet inside? The water pump I believe is electric any leaks there? If you are sure there are no leaks get a garage to pressure test the system and rad plus do a sniff test in the header tank that will confirm if there are head gasket issues or not. Oil usage/loss you don't say how many miles you have on the engine? A litre a week seems high but if your covering mega miles maybe not? Again check externally for leaks/drips. When was it's last full service? Plugs, Coil packs air fuel and oil filters? While at the garage ask for a compression test to get an idea of engine condition, changing parts won't fix a badly worn engine. Dave

Morning Adam and Welcome to the Forum While you give codes how many miles has your car covered, what service history etc helps as well. Not a diesel specialist but have had to learn a bit as all the kids drive diesels (non BMW) and my brother inlaw drives a 530d First the Glow plugs heat for a few seconds to ensure clean start in cold conditions. My sons Toyota had all four not working for a year never made a bit of difference to the car starting but then we do live in Sussex and haven't seen a really cold winter for ages (stupid statement this year I will probably need a snow plow) So I would suspect at the moment as all 4 glow plugs are inoperative that the glow plugs and or controller need changing. I don't think that these are the culprit. The remaining codes however could well be linked, sorting which are symptoms of, and which are the cause is the trick. The charge air monitoring fault I would check all hoses from the turbo through the intercooler and up to the inlet manifold check all the seals and joints both pressure and vacuum hoses it doesn't take much to throw things off. Air Mass sensor (hot film) If these are clean and dry they are normally reliable, the inlet manifold systems are complex, not sure if your car has swirl flaps or not. I would look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will bring up your model then search in the engine section there are exploded drawings that may help. Also look at www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site Dealers use this information. Don't ignore the fuel filter and fuel pump our sons last Toyota had power issues that turned out to be a clogged fuel filter. Good Luck Dave

Morning If the big pipe to the top of the air spring is off that will be it also the suspension will be down as it can't hold air. There should be a locking clip at the end which pushes over the air spring which locks it in place some are plastic so check it's not missing or broken. Sounds as though someone has been in there if the car has been driven on the bump stops it will be rock hard lets hope the air springs are OK. Hope your wife is better Dave

There seems to be plenty changing hands on the well known auction site so even with them being "spares or repair" you may recover something worth a go I would have thought Dave

Hi Kevin Welcome to the Forum If 1 sensor has failed it throws the lot out, so from your symptoms one of the front sensors has died. The sensors tend to be flaky at best my rear sensors show a fault when I scan the system when it's cold out (5 or 6 deg) when its warm like now they work fine they also hate the jet wash?? Cleaning the contacts and plugs cant hurt and is free from memory all 4 sensors on the front of your car are same but check www.realoem.com to be sure if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your car. Have a look at www.newtis.info as well that is a BMW technical information site same information as Dealers use for how too's Good luck Dave

Morning Steve When I had my 4.4 I replaced the standard set up for 2 reasons first the Nav unit was flaky and the TV was analogue so no signal. After a lot of research I went for Dynavin. There were many cheaper available but most came from China and had dubious or no back up. I also wanted to retain the OEM look The Dynavin unit gave me excellent radio, Digital TV, Bluetooth, Nav etc etc and retained the OEM look. It did need the 5m extension lead running from the main radio quadloc connector in the boot but that is straight forward. Cost back then was about £500 from memory but I sold the OEM stuff on Ebay and recovered most of that. The new models I believe integrate with OEM DSP and retain the OBC functions